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Description

Some of the best trad climbs at Boven, and great views of the waterfall. However, it‟s a pity the ledges and the base of the crag are littered with nasty rubbish (the locals use the clif as a dumping site..). It‟s still worth it for the 4 and 5 star lines though.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

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(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Approach

Drive into the township, pass the post boxes and Shebeens (bars) then take the next right. Follow this road, around a bend past the high school on the left. After another 100 metres, take a sharp right beside house „675‟. Follow this rough track, through the grass, past some pig sties to a rocky parking area by some large prehistoric-looking plants. Walk to the large rocks at the cliff edge and on the right you will see wide gully. Further right you can look down onto the detached pillar which hosts „Coming Of Pride‟ etc. Scramble easily down the gully 5 metres to the large fig trees. Abseil off one of the trees 18 metres to the ground. Leave a top rope up so that you can climb out (grade 12 ish). „Two For Tree‟ (17) climbs the right wall (looking out) of the gulley.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

On the far left of the crag, past the Coming Of Pride pinnacle there is an obvious in a gulley crack (on the right when looking down the gully).

FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1999

2
15 Eastsoloing Trad

Climb the arete on the opposite side of the pinnacle to Coming Of Pride.

FA: M Jager, 1992

3
15 South Corner Trad

Climb the recess of the right of the pillar on the river side of the pinnacle.

FA: R Johler, 1992

4
17 Styling Trad

Climb the arete left of Coming Of Pride.

FA: R Kohler, 1992

5

Climb the crack system up the front of the pinnacle. (The waterfall lurks behind you while climbing).

FA: M Brunke & Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

6

The amazing yellowish arête to the right of Coming Of Pride, with the big german-style (spaced!) ring bolts. You may need friends #.5, #2.5 at the bottom. Use some lower-offs on LB.

FA: R Jager, 1993

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24 Little Bitch Trad

Climb the wall of the pinnacle, to the right of the Out Of Germany arête. Starts in a finger crack then up the left trending seam.

FA: M Jager, 1992

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16 * Funky Fruit Trad

On the main face opposite Out of Germany. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.

FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet, 2006

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17 * Two For Tree Trad

Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.

FA: Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

10

Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

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16 * Wizard Of Oz Trad

Starts about 30m right of little bitch at a face just right of an obvious recess. Pitch 1. 11 * Climb tree for 5m, step over to face. Pitch 2. 16 * Move through overlap up from ledge and up a crack. Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko, 2000

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15 The Gutter Trad

Start as for NN, but climb the face. Pitch 1. 15 From thin moves with tricky protection straight up the face to the ledge. Pitch 2. 15 * From the far left end of the ledge, climb up traversing diagonally back towards a crack after 3m. Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko, 2000

13

Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter, 2004

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19 * Et Tu Ceaser Trad

A rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

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31 *** Boa Rodeo Trad

Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton

FA: Jens Richter, 2003

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Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

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18 * Scrabble Trad

Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.

FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter, 2003

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Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

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19 *** In My Place Trad

Unbelievable. 30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk, 2004

20

Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004