The Junkyard All Trad climbing20 routes in cliff
- Grades: SA
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Some of the best trad climbs at Boven, and great views of the waterfall. However, it‟s a pity the ledges and the base of the crag are littered with nasty rubbish (the locals use the clif as a dumping site..). It‟s still worth it for the 4 and 5 star lines though.
Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven
Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two
1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!
The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).
Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.
There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link
(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.
Drive into the township, pass the post boxes and Shebeens (bars) then take the next right. Follow this road, around a bend past the high school on the left. After another 100 metres, take a sharp right beside house „675‟. Follow this rough track, through the grass, past some pig sties to a rocky parking area by some large prehistoric-looking plants. Walk to the large rocks at the cliff edge and on the right you will see wide gully. Further right you can look down onto the detached pillar which hosts „Coming Of Pride‟ etc. Scramble easily down the gully 5 metres to the large fig trees. Abseil off one of the trees 18 metres to the ground. Leave a top rope up so that you can climb out (grade 12 ish). „Two For Tree‟ (17) climbs the right wall (looking out) of the gulley.
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