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The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road a few kms past Boven on the N4. Call Louw Pretorius, the owner of Luilekker Guest House on +2713 257 7056. These crags have great potential and the land owner is keen to get more routes developed. Be friendly to him and report to reception before climbing here.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link


( but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.


Take the N4 highway in the direction of Nelspruit. Look for the well sign posted Luilekker Guest House, 2.5km after the tunnel on the right. [ GPS: S25 38 51.9 E30 21 49.7 1270 m]. The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road


View timeline of historical ascents

The bowl-like feature faces north and bakes throughout the year. This crag could be slightly warmer than those in Waterval Boven due to the drop in altitude as one drives down. Best go on a cloudy cold day or in the evening.


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Grade Route

This route, the first on the crag, follows a line up the middle of the main face. Pitch 1. 17 * 35m. Start on the face 10m left of the obvious, shallow lunch cave. Climb up tending right into a recess till a large ledge below an overhanging face. Pitch 2. 23 20m. Start at back left corner of ledge. Climbs strenuous corner crack for 6m the traverse right for 3m on good holds and exposure. Fire 112 straight up to a ledge from where one can belay and walk off.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001


Check out what is happening in Waterval Onder - Luilekker Crags.