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Description

At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

12 [8D] At a lower level than the 8m gully, about 40m around to the left. Climb the corner crack with classic (traddy!) moves.

FA: Clive Curson, Jul 2017

15 * [10D] Start 1-2m L of the L hand crack, then follow it to anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

16 * [8D] The R crack.

FA: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

14 ** [11D] About 3m R of the cracks is large right-facing corner.

FA: Uriel Boeckheler, Nathanael Boeckheler, Anita Boeckheler, Tobias Boeckheler, Viviana Boeckheler & Clive Curson, Aug 2017

16 ** [9D] 5m R of the major corner, follow the bolts starting up a short corner. There is a 3bolt variant start 2m L (starting 3m R of the corner).

FA: Uriel Boeckheler, Nathanael Boeckheler, Anita Boeckheler, Tobias Boeckheler, Viviana Boeckheler & Clive Curson, Aug 2017

Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Alard Hüfner, 2003

18 [10D] Climb the arete/face just R of the WYNI corner.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Tristan Firman & Clive Curson, Sep 2017

The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of ALS BELLS. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2003

Climbs an arete up to the crack in the face above. Starts 2m right of RFTBG.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of SSM.

FA: Greg Devine, Daryll Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

The next right facing corner 10m right of QQ.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, Claire Keeton, Mark Seuring & Kaliani, 2003

Starts under the big roof just right of SYB. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an offwidth above.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

17 * [5D] This lil number starts just left of HW and rails out to anchors at the ledge on the left arete of this beautiful face. Toprope to clean. Options: climb the last part of OTPEOTP; or rap off. Another 2 anchors higher up await the enthusiastic boulderer who will tackle the arete.

FA: Clive Curson, Oct 2017

The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Activity

Check out what is happening in ALS BELLS AREA.