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Table of contents

1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

Access Issues: inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * When You Need It

Scramble 10m up the blocks left of the steep open book. Climb the obvious crack.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Alard Hüfner, 2003

17Trad
2 *** Als Bells

The obvious undercut open book. It looks harder than it climbs. Takes good gear. This and other climbs here are in shade from noon in the summer.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

19Trad
3 ** Respect for the big Guy

Climbs the front nose of the buttress 5m right of ALS BELLS. Climbs diagonally up left past the loose looking “big guy” and onto the face.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2003

19Trad
4 ** Soft Sabie Mark

Climbs an arete up to the crack in the face above. Starts 2m right of RFTBG.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

22Trad
5 * Quack-Quack

Climb the chimney and crack system in a corner right of SSM.

FA: Greg Devine, Daryll Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

17Trad
6 * Squeeze your Balls

The next right facing corner 10m right of QQ.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, Claire Keeton, Mark Seuring & Kaliani, 2003

17Trad
7 * Omte Pee Om te Poep

Starts under the big roof just right of SYB. Follows the crack through small roof 2m right of the big corner with an offwidth above.

FA: Mark Seuring, Marianne Pretorius & Karl Kritzinger, 2003

18Trad
8 ** The Huffing Warthog

The striking crack line. Fist size higher up with chains on top. These can also be used for abbing after doing some of the other routes. Thanks to Gareth Frost & Daryll Margetts who aided up here first and for placing the anchors.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

23Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
17 * Quack-Quack Trad
* Squeeze your Balls Trad
* When You Need It Trad
18 * Omte Pee Om te Poep Trad
19 *** Als Bells Trad
** Respect for the big Guy Trad
22 ** Soft Sabie Mark Trad
23 ** The Huffing Warthog Trad