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Description

The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

The Chreche can be accessed from the tranquilitas campsite by following the trail to the tranquilitas crag but instead of descending near the Rubix Cube follow the trail around the escarpment edge to the top of the crag and then abseil from the anchors of Crouching Tiger or scramble down the via-ferata gully near Consistency is Fashion.

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Routes

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Grade Route

16 0* [7D, N] The extension of M(ICHAEL) J(ACKSON). In its current state, loose and unpleasant. BEWARE! Don’t climb it.

FA: Clive Curson, 2016

* [8D] Shares the 1st 3 bolts with ARIELLE. Climb up left on the R hand edge of the nice-looking smooth face to anchors on the left wall at 3/4 height, about 8m R of HUFFING WARTHOG.

FA: Clive Curson & J. Bollerup, 2017

7 * [7D] Tagged. Major corner on the left of the Creche. Opened by Arielle on her 9th birthday. Climb to the anchors under the roof.

FA: Arielle Behr, 2016

8 * [7D] TALIA LH Variant. Starting in the corner climb up R to the 2nd bolt on TALIA & up to the anchors 3m R of the major corner.

FA: Bollerup, J. Bollerup & C. Curson, 2016

8 ** [7D] EXODUS LHV. Starts up MAX heading diagonally R, crosses TALIA & joins EXODUS on the long ledge. Finish up just L of the fig tree.

FA: C. Curson, 2016

10 * [12D] A longish traverse and a quick way to climb out after the day's climbing. Starting at MAX in the major corner, climb up to the ledge at EXODUS' 3rd bolt. Traverse R then diagonally R over a small fig to exit above CROUCHING TIGER. Belay at the chains above the huge sloping block, or lower back to the ground. Someone will probably have to follow the climb due to the difficulty of cleaning on rappel.

5 * [11D] Marked. Max (Gus' Weimaraner) has soloed this more times than you can count. Starting at the major corner, go diagonally R (as for BONGO). Continue along the ledge around the (2nd) small fig tree, cross the major crack line to a 3 bolt anchor. Clip them and lower to the ground for your first lead. The 2nd can clean the draws and rap off the anchors. Alternatively reverse the traverse Lwards, removing draws from the bolts as you go, then carefully downclimb to the ground in the corner.

FA: Max

12 [20D] The extension of MAX along 1000000 (lower than DOUBT) traversing the whole slab to finish at the top of the arete at KAJ's anchors. Very cruisy so you can stop many times to admire the view onto the great red walls under the farmhouse. Can be climbed as 1 pitch (long draws may be useful) or broken into 2 pitches at the 3 bolt anchor of MAX.

FA: C. Curson & G. Janse van Rensburg, 2017

11 [20D] The extension of MAX taking the high traverse of DOUBT to the MOAAH anchors near the arete. Clean on toprope.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, 2017

13 ** [7D] Start 3m R of the major corner at a hard start. Straight up to the anchors shared with DOT. Opened on her 13th birthday.

FA: Talia Behr, 2016

13 ** [7D] Starting 1m R of TALIAs 1st bolt, climb up and R passing just L of a fig tree to anchors under the roof 6m from the major corner.

FA: C. Curson & J. Bollerup, 2016

10 * [7D] Using ROTAs 1st 2 brackets, climb up and continue left of the fig tree to the EXODUS U bolt anchors.

FA: C. Curson, 2016

Gently scrambles up from left of the tree, heading diagonally right to easily accessible chains.

FA: Mel Janse van Rensburg, 2011

Starts a couple meters left of Milou, up generally easy slab to bolted anchor at the base of the obvious arete in the upper part of the cliff.

An externsion of either Bob or Milou -- climb the striking arete near the top of the cliff.

Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. Halfway up the face there is a u-bolt anchor before the final crux. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007

8 * [7D] Shorter and easier than MILOU, stopping before the final crux headwall. Use the 3 bolt anchors to the R on MAX, or the 2bolt anchor on DON.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007

7 * [8D] A direct way to the 3 Ubolt MAX anchors. Start up the faint crack 1m L of CROUCHING TIGERs tree. After 4 Ubolts, trend R onto CTs crack.

FA: J. Bollerup & C. Curson, 2017

9 * [14D] The extension of GARFIELD to the chains near the sloping block at the very top.

FA: C. Curson & J. Bollerup, 2017

Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route.

Originally 10 bolts, now extended another 3 (U-bolts) past the original anchor, to bring total to 13 bolts, and finishes on anchors visible at the skyline.

FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

12 [12D] Follows the double black mark-ed bolts, starting at MAXs finishing anchors. Can be accessed in a few other ways eg up FELIX, GARFIELD. From 3 Ubolt anchor move R then slightly down & cross cleft. Traverse R till black waterstreak on ROSY/MORT. Climb diagonally up into the tiny recess, then continue diagonally R to the top of the arete at MOAAH anchors. The view and situation on the face here would merit several stars even with poor climbing. Which it isn’t.

FA: C. Curson & G. Janse van Rensburg, 2017

11 [12D] Follows the red mark-ed bolts starting at MAXs finishing anchors. Can be accessed in a few other ways (eg CROUCHING TIGER). From the 3 bolt anchors, traverse R 2-3m along the ledge then up to the next ledge and continue traversing R crossing the cleft about 2m higher than 1000000. Continue rightward crossing the black water streak (1000000 comes up here), then go diagonally R to near the top of the arête at MOAAHs anchors.

FA: C. Curson & Don Poe, 2017

Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Start just right of Mel, following U-bolts up diagonally rightwards then up to anchor.

FA: J Bollerup, 2017

10 * [11D] Starting up ALSs first 2 bolts, move diagonally R to the big crack/cleft above the tree. Up the LHS of the cleft following MTYJ (brackets) to chains. Currently run-out above the tree.

FA: C. Curson & J. Bollerup, 2017

9 * [10D] Traverse up and R following the black mark-ed bolts (and cable!). Start up 2 bolts of ALS, up another move as for JANE, then traverse behind the large tree and across the square ledge. Step up R onto the slab, similar to KAJ, and traverse R to the 3 Ubolt anchor at a ledge close to the arete. From here one may rappel/lower off, or bring up a 2nd then do any of the 4 right hand routes on this slabby perched face. Can easily be soloed up or down with the via ferrata but know how to use the vf safely before trying this. The vf becomes way more technical and exposed going around the arête into the gully.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Clive Curson, 2017

Boulder up the arete of the left facing corner (harder if you keep left of the arete), then step across onto the main face and up. An easier alternative is to start right of the arete, follow two u-bolts to ledge, and then stepping left onto main face.

FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

The following 5 routes start above the picnic ledge -- all can be started either by stemming up the cave to the ledge, or by climbing the bolted face a couple meters left of the ledge. Then traverse varying distances right before heading up. With the plethora of bolt-lines, finding the right one can be tricky, but each line generally uses a different type of bolt and this can help to distinguish which you are on.

Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face going slightly left.

FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

From the block, go up and right following U-bolts, and staying on the slab left of the black water streak.

After toppinig the block, go right for a few meters, then follow P-bolts up crossing the black streak.

Traverse even farther right, past the black streak, and follow U-bolts up to anchors.

From the ledge, go up and right towards the arete (anchor at start of arete), then climb the exposed arete.

May be worth climbing Mort/Rosy and the lowering to the ledge & anchors at the start and just climbing the arete.

Just at the start of the gully to the left of "Consistency is Fashion", on the left wall, are a couple of re-bar steps and u-bolts. These lead to an easy scramble (with rope on one side and via ferrata cable on the other) up and out to the top of the escarpment.

19 * [9D] Up using the incut footholds and a rung for protection only to the first small Ubolt, to an obvious footrail at 3m. Go L along this to the arete – using several inobvious underclings. Up the arete to a ledge shared with KAJ. Climb the arete as for KAJ, but use the anchors just R of the arête to minimise ropedrag. Easier if you are tall.

FA: Clive Curson & Barry Brits, 2017

22 * [9D] Start L of the bolt ladder to the footrail, as for BOY. Continue up the easy notched arete-let in the face. It gets thinner at the top, going up slightly left to a better hold. Could be harder for short climbers.

FA: Clive Curson & Barry Brits, 2017

23 * [9D) As for KAJBOY to 5th bolt. Continue up straight or slightly R, via a 2cm foothold and R slanting crimp to a hard finish. Will be harder still for shorter climbers.

11 * [10D] Climb up to the ledge above the bolt ladder. Not using the tree or ladder is 13. Up to the smaller ledge and stem the gap to gain the arete on the other side. Up this on ring bolts noting the (safe!) stacked blocks at top.

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring, overhanging chimney. A happy surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the chimney 6m right of the bolt ladder. Up and traverse outwards on footrails. Beware loose stones deep in the slot. It may be necessary for the 2nd to follow to clean this route.

FA: C Curson & G Janse van Rensburg, 2017

Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

Not as closely bolted as most other climbs at the Creche.

FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes, 2007

Start 2m R of Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky.

FA: Balthazar de Brouwer, 2012

Activity

Check out what is happening in THE CRECHE.