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Description

The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

The Chreche can be accessed from the tranquilitas campsite by following the trail to the tranquilitas crag but instead of descending near the Rubix Cube follow the trail around the escarpment edge to the top of the crag and then abseil from the anchors of Crouching Tiger or scramble down the via-ferata gully near Consistency is Fashion.

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Routes

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Gently scrambles up from left of the tree, heading diagonally right to easily accessible chains.

FA: Mel Janse van Rensburg, 2011

Starts a couple meters left of Milou, up generally easy slab to bolted anchor at the base of the obvious arete in the upper part of the cliff.

An externsion of either Bob or Milou -- climb the striking arete near the top of the cliff.

Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. Halfway up the face there is a u-bolt anchor before the final crux. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007

Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route.

Originally 10 bolts, now extended another 3 (U-bolts) past the original anchor, to bring total to 13 bolts, and finishes on anchors visible at the skyline.

FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Start just right of Mel, following U-bolts up diagonally rightwards then up to anchor.

FA: J Bollerup, 2017

Boulder up the arete of the left facing corner (harder if you keep left of the arete), then step across onto the main face and up. An easier alternative is to start right of the arete, follow two u-bolts to ledge, and then stepping left onto main face.

FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

The following 5 routes start above the picnic ledge -- all can be started either by stemming up the cave to the ledge, or by climbing the bolted face a couple meters left of the ledge. Then traverse varying distances right before heading up. With the plethora of bolt-lines, finding the right one can be tricky, but each line generally uses a different type of bolt and this can help to distinguish which you are on.

Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face going slightly left.

FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

From the block, go up and right following U-bolts, and staying on the slab left of the black water streak.

After toppinig the block, go right for a few meters, then follow P-bolts up crossing the black streak.

Traverse even farther right, past the black streak, and follow U-bolts up to anchors.

From the ledge, go up and right towards the arete (anchor at start of arete), then climb the exposed arete.

May be worth climbing Mort/Rosy and the lowering to the ledge & anchors at the start and just climbing the arete.

Just at the start of the gully to the left of "Consistency is Fashion", on the left wall, are a couple of re-bar steps and u-bolts. These lead to an easy scramble (with rope on one side and via ferrata cable on the other) up and out to the top of the escarpment.

Looks like a nightmarish, downward-flaring, overhanging chimney. A happy surprise awaits you. Start at the back of the chimney 6m right of the bolt ladder. Up and traverse outwards on footrails. Beware loose stones deep in the slot. It may be necessary for the 2nd to follow to clean this route.

FA: C Curson & G Janse van Rensburg, 2017

Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

Not as closely bolted as most other climbs at the Creche.

FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes, 2007

Start 2m R of Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky.

FA: Balthazar de Brouwer, 2012

Activity

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