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Description

The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
9 ** Milou Sport 8

Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie, 2007

2
12 ** Crouching Tiger Sport 10

Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route.

FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

3
11 *** Mel Sport 8

Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

4

Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up.

FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

5
14 ** Jackie Chan Sport 9

Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face.

FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

6

Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

7
14 ** Feel Good Sport 7

Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing.

FA: rad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

8

Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes, 2007