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Description

The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of the „Wasp Warrior‟ opened up by a visiting Czech climber.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2009

Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains!

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock.

FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune, 2003

Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2009

Name is painted on the rock.

Climb up an initial short blocky corner, unclipping the first bolt as you pass it to reduce rope drag. A long sling on the 2nd bolt is a good idea, too. Surmount the small roof, then pass another bulge on the right, then up some thin face to the anchors.

This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

Climb into a small roof, when standing on it, traverse out right and then up to face climbing.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

5m right of the previous climb, starting on a slab. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24!

FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

A short route 20m left of FUG.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

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