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Description

The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

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(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 * Nitro's Tick Fever Sport 10

Climbs the slabby wall approx 50 m right of the „Wasp Warrior‟ opened up by a visiting Czech climber.

FA: Neil Margetts, 2009

2

Starts at the right hand end of the obvious long roof. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains!

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

3
26 ** Atlantis Sport 11

A greatline. Pull a small overlap then head into the corner and race for the chains up steeper ground.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

4
28 *** Eldorado Sport 11

One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004

5
27 ** Inca Trail Sport 11

A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line weaves its way through a series of balancy moves.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

6
24 ** S.W.A.T. Team Sport 10

A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock.

FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune, 2003

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29 * Fever Sport 10

Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a bulge. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Low in the grade.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2009

8
21 ** Peaceful Sleep Sport 11

This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

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Start up obvious diagonal crack tending right through overlaps.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

10
23 ** Beat Them Dead Sport 13

Start under a big roof. Head right, then into small open book, following the thin crack to chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

11

Climb into a small roof, when standing on it, traverse out right and then up to face climbing.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

12
22 ** Malaria Sport 12

5m right of the previous climb, starting on a slab. Climb out right at the small roof and onto the face for another 20m.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

13

Start 18m left of Malaria at an undercut base between some trees under the obvious roof crack in the sky. Climb the face up to a small stance under a left-leaning corner. Climb the corner till forced to the arete out right. Climb face till stance under the roof. Traverse left into roof crack and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

14

Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

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18 ** Evelyn Sport 12

Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006

16
22 ** Balance of Power Sport 8

Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24!

FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

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21 ** Roc Rally Sport 9

A short route 20m left of FUG.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2006