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Description

The broken slabby sector, the first area upon arriving at the right (west) end of the crag.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SA 22 ** FUG Sport

New route well indicated on the rock.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts

2

One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough!

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury, 2007

3
SA 18 ** Endless Blowjob Sport 12

The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts

4
SA 16 ** Little Bonsai Sport 20m, 12

Just left to the recess where Chimneying Tammy is. A wonderful route for its grade.

FA: G Frost and D Margetts, 2003

5
SA 15 * Chimneying Tammy Sport 7

Typical chimney climb to the left of GMGMG. Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from chains.

FA: Gary Lowther, 2003

6

Scramble up to the left of Diseased Mad Cow to find the line on the inside arête, just outside the cave. Cruxy start then onto face above, try keep right towards chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

7
SA 22 ** Diseased Mad Cow Sport 11

Start in a corner 12m right of GRUNT. Climb the crack, then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and up.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

8
SA 24 * Grunt Trad

The obvious roof crack with easier headwall.

FA: Mark Seuring & Steve Broccardo, 2002

9
SA 24 * I Feel Rocks Sport 8

Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of Biogalactic Gargleblaster. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2003

10
SA 20 ** Up Your Tree Sport 9

Shares a start with I Feel Rocks. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on Biogalactic Gargleblaster.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

11
SA 20 ** Biogalactic Gobbleblaster Sport 20m, 8

Start 8m right of GRUNT. Dynamic start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from the right). Climb a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains.

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

12
SA 17 ** Caviars Whiskers Sport 9

Start 5m right of the previous climb up the obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow bolts diagonally right.

FA: Fabrice Blaise, 2000