A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Waterval Boven 677 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 30.355836, -25.650097

Description:

Welcome to Boven! If you are reading this, there is a good chance you are at Africa‟s best sport climbing destination! Or at the very least, you are considering making a trip here. Boven has over 500 sport climbs ranging from grade 8 to 34 (French grade 4 to 8c), and plenty of excellent trad climbing too. The rock is bullet-hard quartzite and the climbs are typically vertical to gently overhanging with the odd overlap. Technical endurance climbing is the predominant style and precise footwork and finger strength will go far! The crags give views over remote wooded valleys and hills rich with animal and plant-life; the bases of the climbs are flat and shady, the crags are quiet and the walk- ins are a breeze. It is one of the few climbing areas in the world where weather is good for climbing almost all year round. Rest-day activities include game viewing in the world famous Kruger National Park, or just basking I the African sun. What more can we say…..the grass really IS greener here.

Access Issues:

Best is by car but see bus info below. There is actually no need at all to venture into Johannesburg itself (not that it‟s such a bad place, some people love it!). From Johannesburg airport (O R Tambo International) take the R21 south for a few kilometers then the N12 east towards Witbank, which becomes the N4. These are excellent highways and within two hours (several kilometers after the second toll gate) the turn-off to Waterval Boven is reached on the right. Note: the highway splits into two

1.5 kilometres after the second toll gate. Both are still signed N4 Nelspruit, but only one of them passes Boven! Keep straight, don‟t take the left fork, many first time visitors make the mistake of going left which leads in completely the wrong direction!

The expensive toll gate just before Boven can be fairly easily avoided by turning off (right) at Machadodorp, approximately 15 kilometres before Boven. Drive into Machadodorp then take the tar road towards Badplaas (signed) for approx 13 kms, then turn left towards „Nkmomati Mine‟. After 3.2 kms turn left onto a gravel road signed Waterval Boven. Keep on this, keeping left at the fork at 6.5 kms, the road leads past the Tranquilitas Adventure farm and the Wonderland crags and after another 8 kilometres or so into Boven town, about 10-15 minutes later than if you had gone through the toll. If it‟s been raining very heavily this road can be unpassable in a normal car, however it dries very quickly (within a few hours).

Once in Boven, Roc „n Rope Adventures is easily found, on the opposite corner is the Shamrock Arms pub. Stop in and say “howzit” and get directions, either to the Climbers‟ Lodge or to Tranquilitas. While in town pick up some beer and some cheap (but excellent) steak and boerewors from the butcher (Slaghuis), be sure to ask for the climbers‟ discount.

There are a couple of shuttle-bus services that leave/return to Joburg once a day. At the time of writing „Jereh‟ will drop you off at roc and rope. Contact them on 082 378 3614; they will soon have a website. The other service is the Lowveld Link

8

(www.lowveldlink.com) but they only drop at the Boven turn off from the N4 but its only 1-2 kms from there to Roc and Rope. Expect to pay between R 300 and 400 return.

Where To Stay:

There is a great climbers‟ lodge in town which is a good base if you are alone as the camping can be pretty lonely during weekdays. Dorm beds and inexpensive double rooms are available. There are normally a handful of road-tripping foreigners around and the odd local. Roc n‟ Rope Adventures (www.rocrope.com) (+27 (0) 13 257 0363)

own the lodge and they are extremely helpful (Gustav wrote the 2004 Guidebook so he knows his way around the crags!).

Or, if you want to stay up in the hills, 5 minutes walk from the crags you can stay at Tranquilitas Adventure Farm (www.tranquilitas.com). It must be one of the most pleasant climber campsites on the planet! Some of the best crags at Boven are not more than a 5 to 10 minutes walk; there is a swimming pool, hot showers, fridges and great fire sites. Mornings are spent drinking coffee and relaxing on the lawns until 11-ish (when the crags go into shade) and climbers gather around camp-fires during the evenings. If you book in advance you can stay in one of the small but well equipped chalets or safari tents. Roc „n Rope also manage Tranquilitas so direct enquires to them.

There are also a few self-catering houses and lodges in the area that can be rented if the Tranquilitas chalets are booked out, some can accommodate larger groups (up to 15).

1.1. Wonderland Area 316 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.366644, -25.669420

Description:

Nice variety of climbs with easy access from parking lot and beautiful views. Climbs are easy to find and the area has a nice variety of routes. The area is nice a cool after 11.

Approach:

"Keep walking along the base of the crag from the God No Wall and around a corner you will arrive at a very appealing east facing vertical wall which is home to some lovely sustained easy climbs. Some of the best easy climbs in Boven. Shade from 11 onwards" - Climb ZA wiki

1.1.1. Tranquilitas 58 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.367058, -25.674786

Description:

Facing Northeast it gets sun most of the day making it ideal for winter climbing. The crag contains a large variety of routes ranging from positive gradient beginner climbs through to long, exposed routes providing an intermediate challenge.

Approach:

From the Tranquilitas Campsite take the path Northeast until you reach the cliffs. Scramble down past the Rubiks Cube Block. The first, most Westerly section, is the Grunt area. Starting there and heading down you'll pass the Malaria Area, Good and Evil Area, The Creche and Finally Als Bells at the far Eastern side.

1.1.1.1. ALS BELLS AREA 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad
Description:

At the far East (left) end of the crag a selection of trad climbs can be found on the blocky butressess. Beware of loose rock.

1.1.1.2. THE CRECHE 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The very low angle slabs host a number of the easiest bolted lines at Boven. Ideal for absolute beginners. Milou can be used as a scramble out from the crag if you are confident soloing a 9!

1.1.1.3. GOOD AND EVIL AREA 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.369028, -25.675028

Description:

The climbs either side of the obvious smooth west facing wall (Wasp Warriors).

1.1.1.4. MALARIA AREA 17 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The middle section of the Crag. The first climb is approx 50 m right of the Wasp Warriors face.

1.1.1.5. GRUNT AREA 12 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The broken slabby sector, the first area upon arriving at the right (west) end of the crag.

1.1.1.6. RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365803, -25.674474

Description:

The free-standing leaning boulder on the left as descending to Tranquilitas Crags is home to some hard bouldery climbs.

1.1.2. Baboon Buttress 49 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.364821, -25.673029

Approach:

APPROACH As for Tranquilitas Crag, then.

A. from the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. After 100 metres the path forks. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. Scramble down the obvious blocky descent gulley (past some short climbs). At the base of the gulley, head left for 10 metres and you will see the obvious crack of Grizzly bear.

B. from the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm camping, take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field, which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork, keep left 27 and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. After about 200 metres the path arrives at the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Papsak

Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arete left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner

22Sport 6
2 * Loopdop

Up middle of face left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner.

17Sport 7
3 * After Thoughts

Climbs the corner crack situated 20 metres to the left of the descent gulley (when facing the bottom of the gulley).

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2009

16Sport 5
4 ** Diablo

Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish.

FA: Evan Margetts, 2011

27Sport 7
5 A.S

Climbs the chimney just right of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. A grovel.

14Sport 6
6 ** Raptophilia

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

FA: Brian Weaver, 2011

32Sport 8
7 ** Psyche Ward

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011

31Sport 5
8 * Blood Diamond

The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top.

FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts., 2012

28Sport 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Baboons in Boardshorts

As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab.

FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

14Sport 7
10 * Trench Town

Slab on arête in descent gulley.

FA: C Vandereydt & M Demilano, 2006

Sport 5
11 ** Adam

Halfway down the descent gulley walk left onto a big ledge. Climbs the slanting feature.

FA: Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt, 2007

22Sport 6
12 ** Irritable Male Syndrome

Climb the next slanting feature.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

22Sport 6
13 * Almost Ushie

Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. Was opened at 22.

FA: Sarel Petrus, 2007

23Sport 6
14 * One Love

Climb the face just right of the cave. Was opened at 22.

FA: Chris Vandereydt, 2006

23Sport 5
15 ** Grizzly Behr

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski, 2006

16Sport 9
16 ** Just Behrly

Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of Grizzly Bear. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.

30Sport 8
17 ** Renewable Energy

From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

18Sport
18 ** Luckly Leila

Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 2004

22Sport
19 ** Whait Watcher Pitch One

From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

17Sport 5
20 ** Whait Watcher Pitch Two

Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

21Sport 8
21 ** Qina

Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

19Sport
22 * No More Dynamo

Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

20Sport 8
23 * Slave Species

Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

25Sport 6
24 Up in Smoke

Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of Goose On The Loose.

FA: Mike Mason, 2002

21Sport 10
25 ** Pretenders

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

FA: Michael Cartwright, 2007

24Sport 8
26 * Goose on a Loose

Climb first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2006

26Sport 9
27 ** Up Alard's Crack

If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the obvious corner chimney.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

17Sport 10
28 ** Kannie-Ballistic

Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

27Sport 12
29 ** Ledgends

Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

25Sport 6
30 ** Jamani

FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg, 2006

19Sport 6
31 *** Sweet Plum

Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement then up left onto the technical face.

FA: Alard Hufner, 2007

25Sport 14
32 ** Sour Grapes

Route climbs the face right of Sweet Plum. Climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

24Sport 13
33 ** Thorns Between the Roses

Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

12Sport 7
34 Twice in a Blue Moon

Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE.

FA: 2009

18Sport 7
35 ** Wild Fire

Starts about 2 metres left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

25Sport 10
36 * Heroes

Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

26Sport 9
37 *** Condor

A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt.

FA: Dylan Voigt, 2010

28Sport 11
38 *** The Bovenator

Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: 2010

28Sport 11
39 ** Dreamers

Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

23Sport 11
40 ** Not-Da-Mamma

Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

23Sport 14
41 * Hey Mamma

Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

16Sport 6
42 *** African Rain

Start in between the 2 drips between the routes "Hey Mama" and "Ice Scream Sundae". The line follows the thin diagonal crack up to the ledge and continues straight up the head wall.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2011

25Sport 14
43 ** Ice Cream Sundae

65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of S.T.P. then traverse left to the arete, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2011

22Sport 65m, 16
44 ** Sticky Toffe Pudding

A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2007

23Sport 17
45 ** Sweet Child of Mine

Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest, before tackling a technical and airy arete. A great journey!

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2010

27Sport 14
46 Rolihlahla / The Overlord

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts.

Set by Andrew Pedley, 2008

FA: Sasha DiGiulian, 2013

33Sport
47 The Butterfly Pitch One

Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!

FA: Alard Hufner

26Sport
48 *** The Butterfly Pitch Two

The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge, or access by climbing Pitch 1. Great photos from the top of the crag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

Sport
49 *** Big Butterfly

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

28Sport

1.1.3. The God No Wall 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365182, -25.671748

Description:

The biggest steep wall at Boven and home to most of the hardest climbs. Probably SA‟s best sport crag. The sector starts where the crag becomes much bigger and steeper! For some superb views of the climbs, at the top of the gulley, walk along the small path that leads along the cliff-top – take your camera!

HEIGHT: 25 - 40 metres

Approach:

A. Access as for Baboon Buttress which rambles on for about 100 metres, keep walking along the base of the cliff until you reach the obvious leaning walls.

B. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo. After a few minutes you will pass the Little Red Wall then the Disciple Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Rodan

The leftmost line up the long leaning face... At the ledge 8 metres up, look out over the forest, take a deep breath then immerse yourself in 25 metres of pumping orange rock-karate. Opened at 34 but 33 with new sequence on crux.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2011

33Sport 13
2 *** Godzilla

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

32Sport 14
3 *** Moster

The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The only line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2006

29Sport 16
4 *** The Beast

Start up Monster and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then finger jugs diagonally to the chains. 70 m rope needed. Low in the grade if you use all the latest tricks. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

31Sport 16
5 *** Mutation Project

Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. Power Endurance on top od endurance = hard and brilliant!

FA: Brian Weaver, 2012

33Sport
6 *** Space Caddet

A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. A bit of everything from technical arête, burly roof, gnarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roof section - that way drag is negligible. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

30Sport
7 Heavens Above Project

Open project, an extension of Freak Show, through the massive overhangs. Only 2-3 metres unsolved to date. Could avoid the Freakshow crux by branching left off Juggernaut. Bolted by Andrew Pedley.

Sport
8 ** Freak Show

Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

28Sport 12
9 ** The Juggernaut

Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt (which has a fixed quickdraw).

FA: Marc Flex Efune, 2009

30Sport 12
10 *** Freak On

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

24Sport 12
11 * Chocolate Éclair

A two bolt boulder problem. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won‟t let you climb anywhere else.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2007

27Sport 4
12 ** Who Needs Lucky Cows / Death by Chocolate

Climb Chocolate Eclair then continue over the roof with a grunt, then up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. The route remains dry during heavy rain.

FA: Daniel Gebel, 2009

31Sport 12
13 Above and Beyond Project

Open project through the massive horizontal roofs above Lucky Cows, involves a Font 8A+ dyno..BB. Matt Bush October 2011.

Sport
14 *** Dungeons and Dragons

25 if you can use your feet. This route starts in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Much better than it looks, a great climb. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging corner behind the trees 20 metres right of Freak-on. Dry in all weather.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2007

26Sport 13
15 *** Tokolosie

Sustained with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge up and right of the start of Dungeons. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, after 3-4 bolts, break out right through the small roof. Dance up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

30Sport 14
16 ** The Blackcountry Butcher

Starts off the same ledge as Tokolosie, or from the ground. Up the orange vertical wall past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, take a rest at the ledge then up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Don‟t get butchered. Solid at the grade.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2009

32Sport 13
17 ** Changing Gears

This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago.

FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

25Sport 12
18 ** Jack of All Trades

The crackline on the left of big smooth 35-metre wall. The original God No classic. Benchmark 8a. Hard for the short. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Tessa Little, 1998

29Unknown 35m, 15
19 ** Jabberwocky

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

33Sport 14
20 *** Vorpal Sword

The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb, one of best sport pitches in SA. Need a 70 m rope.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008

31Sport 16
21 *** Hell Yea

A very long climb which takes the long corner immediately right of Vorpal Sword (shares the first bolt). Not sustained but a superb line. A popular route. Belayer must keep rope close at the „3rd crux‟ to avoid impact with the ledge! Need a 70 m rope

FA: Marc Efune, 2006

27Sport 17
22 ** Rock-Chuka-Chick

Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. A low crux then fun climbing but a bit ledgy.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 1999

24Sport 17
23 *** Big Bad Wolf

10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is another looong route, this one with some fingery technical cruxes.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

24Sport 40m, 16
24 * Burning Spear

Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down.

FA: Marc Efune, 2009

28Sport 17
25 ** Alice in Grannyland

Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. This route is fairly long at 35 odd meters.

FA: Greg Watkins, 1998

24Unknown 35m, 16

1.1.4. The Disciple Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365478, -25.671242

Description:

To the right of the God No! Wall.

Approach:

"Keep walking along the base of the crag from the God No Wall and around a corner you will arrive at a very appealing east facing vertical wall which is home to some lovely sustained easy climbs. Some of the best easy climbs in Boven. Shade from 11 onwards." - Climb ZA Wiki

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bittergal

Starts to the left of the tree. A tricky looking first few meters on is on dolerite (an igneous rock), changing to quartzite after the 3rd bolt.

FA: Greg Borman, 2009

22Sport 28m, 14
2 *** The day of the Triffids / Brolloks

Since being bolted this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in Boven. After the 3rd bolt, move left then up and up; sustained. A 60 m rope is needed.

FFA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998

19Sport 25m, 14
3 *** Goodwill van die Zoeloes / Groenie Die Drakie

Just right of Brolloks, great, bit cruxier than Brollocks. Climb up to the ledge then move left after 4th bolt, and up bolts up to your left. Can also use the Brollocks start.

FFA: Ian Manson & G Shepston, 1992

FA: BB Ken Thrash, 1999

21Sport 28m, 13
4 ** Sarel Seemonster

Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Again, climb 4 bolts then move left and up.

FA: Ken Thrash June, 2009

18Sport 28m, 12
5 ** Lucy

The right most line. Clip first 3-4 bolts of Sarel Seemonster then move right and up, finishing below the big bushy tree.

FA: Daryl Margetts, 2010

FA: E Margetts, 2010

FA: A Margetts, 2010

17Sport 25m, 12

1.1.5. The Little Red Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.365661, -25.670841

Description:

This wall is dark red in colour and can be seen through the trees about 50 m up and right of the Disciple Wall. Some pretty cool climbs here and it‟s only 2 minutes from the God No! Wall.

HEIGHT: 15 - 20 Metres

Approach:

A. if you are at Hallucinogen Wall, take the zig-zagging path that leads down and leftwards starting in the vicinity of Bongoleo, in which case the first wall you will reach is the Little Red Wall.

B. Continue up right another 30 metres from the Disciple Wall (approach as for God No! Wall)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Grannie's Cottage / Digiridoo Project

This route was the old 'Digiridoo Project'.

FA: Matthew Murison, 1998

25Sport 8
2 ** Little Red Riding Hood

A super little climb, a great first 24.

FA: Tessa Little, 1998

25Sport 9
3 ** The Loan Arranger

Just right of LRRH. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall, first diagonally right to a thread, then left and up. Hack your way to the top. Don't forget your spade!

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, 1992

25Trad
4 * Him Speak With Forked Tongue

Trad line just right of THE LOAN ARRANGER.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz, 1998

23Trad
5 ** Halongmaishlong

This (rude) line climbs through the overlap from a corner, 15m right of LRRH.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

20Sport 13

1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall 97 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365779, -25.670137

Description:

Without a doubt the most popular wall around for easy and moderate climbs. Climbs are of relatively short stature but some are of excellent quality. A good place to hone skills required for bigger and better things. Climbs are starting to become a little squeezed-in which can detract from existing climbs; so before you bolt another line, consider if it is really necessary…

HEIGHT: 5 - 18 Metres

Approach:

A. From the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliff line….Follow this excellent path for 350 metres until you reach a small white (Mountain Club of South Africa) sign. Here, leave the main path and head down along the base of the small cliffs. Keep on walking along the base until you arrive at the climbs.

B. From the Tranquilitas camping, take the path leading down into the little bushy valley. Before the main road and the entrance to Tranquilitas an obvious path leads off on the right, towards the cliff line. Take this path and follow it this as described above.

C. To get to the right-hand end of the crag approach as above, pass the white MCSA sign and keep walking along the top of the cliff for another 250 metres. The path curves leftward and at a cairn, a small path on the right descends to the cliff top. After 40 metres turn sharply right onto a small path, which doubles back towards the south, past a wooden barrier and to a small gulley at the (climbers) right end of the Hallucinogen crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I R Baboon

The leftlost route on the short unimpressive looking wall as you walk into the crag from the South.

FA: D Margetts, A Margetts, E Margetts & T Margetts, 2002

12Sport 5
2 ** Smoking Dread Locks

The crack line.

FA: D Margetts & G Frost, 2003

21Sport 5
3 * Comfort Zone

Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left.

FA: H. Pringle, G. Frost, N. McKenzie, D. Margetts & A. Grant, 2001

20Sport 6
4 * The Flying Scotsman

The desperate looking blank face.

FA: James Roberts, 2002

26Sport 5
5 * Hey Pappa

The route is the lonely line on a small open face about 60m left of Dexters Lab. It climbs a prominent crack, after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left, to gain a thin crack at the top with some technical climbing.

FA: Albert Smit, 2000

24Sport 5
6 * Hamster Hotel

Start at the coral tree 10m right of HP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

15Sport 6
7 ** Two Cam Sam

Start in the corner up to a loose looking block.

FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2007

23Trad
8 ** Rat Pallace

A little way along the path approaching from the left of Hallucinogen Wall. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above.

FA: Darryl Margetts, G. Frost, H. Pringle, 2001

20Sport 9
9 ** Last Hurrah

Starts by a tree stump against the rock face 5m right of RP.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

16Sport 7
10 * Roundabout Now

5m left of Bamboozled. Climb corner into the roof. Swing left onto block and up.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

19Trad
11 * Man Slaves

Climb up a face left of a large right facing corner out to a huge cammed block. Swing left under block and up.

FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti

15Sport 9
12 ** Bamboozled

10m left of DL. A fine route with an arete high up. Low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

27Sport 9
13 ** La Croisiere S'amuse

Start in the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face (Labrat) to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2003

24Sport 10
14 *** Lab Rat

Climbs up the centre of the blank gently leaning wall via some desperately awkward movements. Starts off the ground at the base of the crack. Clip first bolt with a single screwgate biner from the block. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. Needs grade confirmation.

FA: Clinton Martinengo, 2006

33Sport 10
15 ** Dexter's Lab

Climbs the obvious wide layback crack for about 10 m to a ledge. Move up and left off the ledge via some hard to find jugs, through an overhang.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

23Sport 12
16 ** Cloud City

Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang, pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.

FA: E Margetts, D Margetts, A Margetts, 2010

21Sport 10
17 * Smokey the Bear

Up 3 small ledges and the groove just left of BONGOLEO.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2003

15Sport 9
18 ** Bongoleo

about 5m left of WICKED.

FA: Mike Behr & Clive Curson, 2000

21Sport 8
19 ** Ceasarian

Start on BONGOLEO, break up right before the chains to clip 2 hangers and then onto the top groove of WICKED.

FA: ustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

23Sport 11
20 *** Wicked

Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a small arm span.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1999

26Sport 10
21 * Drop Kicked

2 Metres right of "Wicked". Some of us were sandbagged when 24 was written at the base after the first ascent!

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

26Sport 9
22 *** Five Lives Left

2m right of DK. Up the cracks to under the roofs and out left. Slightly run out! Do not fumble on the second or third clips.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

19Sport 8
23 ** Dutch Popcorn

Starts behind a bush under an overhanging corner. A great line. Keep your thinking cap on for this route.

FA: Alard Hufner, 1999

26Sport 12
24 ** I Just Cant Bolt It

The obvious crack line just right of DP.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

20Trad
25 ** Searching

Climb the recess, break out left past the blocks and through the roof crack and up the face.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

22Trad
26 ** Lion Hunt

Funky face climbing, then through an overlap.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

22Sport 10
27 * Shroom Hunter

Left of the open book, railing out right on top.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2002

21Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 ** Hemp on the HIll

Start one meter left of the open book just right of Shroom Hunter.

FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner, 2004

17Sport 11
29 * Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam

Starts 10m right of DP around the corner and 10m left of SSS. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree.

FA: Dermot Brogan, 2000

23Sport 8
30 ** Snakeskin Safari Suit

Every beginner should aspire to climb this classic 18. Climb up the right facing corner, left of the M & M face.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, N. McKenzie & D. Chesney, 2000

18Sport 10
31 ** M&M

The blank wall left of the leaning pillar. Hard start then a tricky traverse to the left.

FA: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring, 1999

30Sport 7
32 * The Harder You Push, the Harder it Gets

Right side of the leaning pillar. Use the pillar and the face to get to the top of the pillar. Reach for the base of the shallow recess to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

18Sport 8
33 ** Are You Chicken Enough

Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2012

25Trad
34 * Moondance

Climbs the recess about 4m to the right of the loose pillar, for about 15m. Some cranking crack climbing.

FA: Claire Keaton, 1999

20Sport 12
35 ** Loch Ness

Start about 1.5 m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face

FA: Ken Thrash, 2010

25Sport 7
36 ** Morse Code

Begins with a boulder problem following the crack 6 m right of Moon Dance.

FA: Brian Weaver, 2009

27Trad
37 ** Ants in Your Pants

Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

28Sport 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
38 ** Once in a Blue Moon

Climb the corner into chimney onto the face. Either love it or hate it!

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

19Sport 11
39 * Blood on the Rocks

Goes up and to the left of the arete.

FA: Dylan Morgan, 1999

23Sport 10
40 * Doom

Starts in the middle of the face about 2 metres left of CC. Trend leftwards to the arete and then follow break rightwards to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

19Sport 10
41 * Neither Here Nor There

Start as for Doom, but stay to the right of the bolts, straight up the face all the way to the top. This route shares the bolts and chains with DOOM.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

19Sport 10
42 * Cenotaph Corner

Starts in the obvious corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

16Sport 9
43 ** Old Crusty's Last Stand

Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1999

18Sport 10
44 * Be Quick Or Be Dead

Starts on the face just right of the off width crack. Climb the very balancy face without using the corner.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

24Sport 10
45 ** High Speed Dirt

Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WANBT, opposite the large tree. Follow the crack all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

20Sport 11
46 ** Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble

A great route. Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE, climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move right to an obvious layback crack to the chains. Starting on the arête to the left is 22/23

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

24Sport 9
47 * Chics for Free

Starts about 10 m around the corner of TP and follows the corner to the top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

15Sport 9
48 * Fat Annie

The bouldery face right of CFF.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2002

25Sport 6
49 ** Slim JIm

Takes the line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away.

FA: Andrew Porter, 2003

19Sport 7
50 * The One That Got Away

The hidden line 4 m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2004

23Sport 8
51 * Teacher's Pet

Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1999

15Sport 8
52 * Banging Bridget Jones

Climb up the break that kicks back a bit on top.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 2003

18Sport 9
53 ** Spicy Haberero Salsa

Start on the right of Banging Bridget on the flat holds. Traverse L into the seam and up, moving left into a crack then rightwards and over a rood and crack to finish.

FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, 2011

24Sport 5
54 * Zellweger Variation

Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent chains.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

17Sport 9
55 * Zellweger

Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

16Sport 9
56 * The Pallbearer

Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash, 1998

17Sport 6
57 Fisticuffs

Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

13Sport 5
58 It's 13 Jim, But Not As We Know It

Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Some lateral thinking may be required for this climb.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

15Sport 6
59 *** Angel of Mercy

A classic 16 requiring some crack and laybacking skills. Start on the obvious flake.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1998

16Sport 8
60 ** Saint Gabriel

Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock.

FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts

21Sport 6
61 ** The Winnebago Smile

Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack above to the top. This climb was first opened on trad retrobolted

FA: J Sydow, Phil Lloyd, Ian Manson, 1992

19Sport 12
62 ** Ay Maar Die Mens Is N Wonderllike Ding

Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner. The route name was overheard at the local cafe. This climb was opened on trad, retrobolted and called “YOU MEAN THAT'S IT.”

FA: P Lloyd, J Sydow, Ian Manson, 1992

21Sport 10
63 * Witless

Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. Finger lockin' heaven.

FA: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop, 1992

25Trad
64 ** Task Saturated

Starts about 1.5m right of WITLESS, below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling, moving left and up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

25Sport 8
65 * Santa's Little Helper

Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING.

FA: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster & Darryl Margetts, 1999

20Sport 10
66 Reminiscing

This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH.

FA: Laubie Lauscher & Steve Broccardo, 2000

17Sport 11
67 * Please Don't Touch

This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. Up to a double crack system. Using both cracks to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

23Sport 9
68 * Champange on Ice

Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete.

FA: Janse van Rensburg, 2005

25Sport 9
69 ** Dead Ant

This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH, and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

22Sport 10
70 * Variation to Wood Pile Crack

This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack. Follow the crack to the chains.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

18Sport 9
71 * Wood Pile Crack

The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK.

FA: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

18Sport 9
72 ** The Trees Are Machines that make Sweets for the Fish

Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2005

22Sport
73 * Mountain Pursuit

Climb the groove left of GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

12Sport 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
74 ** Gravy Train

Climb the blobby featured face around the corner of CAPTAIN HOOK. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when lowering.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Gareth Frost & N McKenzie, 2000

15Unknown 8
75 ** Dead Gecko

Just right of Gravy Train.

FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano, 2005

19Sport 7
76 * B & B

Climb the chimney crack on good pro.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Mark Seuring, 2001

17Trad
77 ** Captain Hook

Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN.

FA: Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 2000

18Sport 12
78 * The Claregate

Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book.

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

17Sport 12
79 * Aussie Rules / Ozzy Rules

Just right of CLAREGATE.

FA: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts, 1999

17Sport 10
80 * Unfinished Business

Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough.

FA: Ken Thrash

Sport 7
81 ** Face in the Trough

A face climb staying right of the bolts.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

23Sport 9
82 ** Forest Glump

Starts on a block, bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to chains on FITT.

FA: Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney, 2000

14Sport 10
83 * Lining Your Pockets

Climb the line of bolts to the left of MFG. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Gareth Frost, 2000

17Sport 9
84 Mission from Glod

Starts in the corner below the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

16Sport 11
85 * Sand Glod

This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains.

FA: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts, 1999

16Sport 12
86 ** Panty-Slapped

The arête behind the tree. Super technical on-balance moves, low in the grade.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

28Sport 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
87 ** Emancipated Spider Chicks

Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM.

FA: G. Frost & Darryl Margetts, 2000

20Sport 9
88 * Butterfly Snowstorm

Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S.

FA: Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot, 2000

15Sport 7
89 * Clockwork Orange

Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2008

16Sport 9
90 * Clockwork Orange Variation

Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt.

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts, 2009

Sport 8
91 * Rocky's

This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 1999

15Sport 10
92 * Iron Lotus

Climb the thin face just right of rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).

FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts, 2010

21Sport 8
93 * The Ladder

Right of the aboveS

FA: Dave Chesney & Darryl Margetts, 2000

14Sport
94 * Fadja's Revenge

5 meters to the right of the Ladder

FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008

9Sport 5
95 You Mean That's It 21Unknown
96 ** Dream Come True 19Sport
97 Mike Behr's Route 22Unknown

1.1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.365994, -25.668741

Description:

This recently developed crag is situated 100 Meters down and to the right of the right end of Hallucinogen wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Zooter

Climb a short face,move right to a layback and continue to chains

FA: D Margetts, 2008

17Sport 9
2 * Golden Pie

Climb layback crack

FA: D Margetts A Margetts, 2008

17Sport 7
3 ** Brunch

The best route at the crag, climbs a blunt arête feature. Step left at the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2010

19Sport 8
4 * Chicken Wing

Climb short face and arete

FA: D Margetts K Thrash, 2008

15Sport 8
5 * Spare Rib

Climb break to the right of Chicken Wing

FA: D Margetts E Margetts and A Margetts

12Sport 7
6 * Crack Up

Climb the break 20 meters to the right of Spare Rib

FA: D Margetts and A Margetts

15Sport 5

1.1.8. Reunion Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

On the way to the Superbowl a smooth vertical face is found on the left behind some rocks and a cactus tree. The wall faces north-northeast so remains sunny until early afternoon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** I Dexe

The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE.

FA: Bine Tittel, 2005

24Sport 10
2 *** Cactus Palace

The obvious bolted diagonal line provides some cool sequences.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2004

23Sport 10
3 * For Your Colorfication

he hard-looking face climb to the right of CACTUS PALACE.

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

28Sport 8

1.1.9. The Superbowl 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.364117, -25.666317

Description:

One of the best crags, especially for 24 to 30. Hosts two of Boven‟s most famous routes, Snapdragon and 'Lotter's Desire'.

Approach:

A. As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn (pile of stones) on the right from which a small path leads down toward to cliff top. You will arrive at the top of a buttress, from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire, Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon.

B. The right hand side of the crag can also be accessed from the gulley beyond right side of the crag. Approach as above but walk another 300 metres along the main cliff-top path, shortly after a long bend in the trail, cut down across the grass to the cliff edge; you can see a small square Mountain Club sign at the top of the gulley. Descend the gulley then keep right past some wet sections and you soon arrive at the climbs around Teen Spirit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Kimchi

Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains, just a mistake by the bolter. Solid 7b+.

FA: Dan Honeymann, 2007

27Sport 11
2 *** Doug in the Yellow House

Starts on tree roots 20 m left of Snapdragon. Tenuous laybacks leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway!

FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005

26Sport 13
3 ** Coach

Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Start up the roots about 10 m left of Snapdragon. Some awkward fingery cruxes keep your brain busy.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2011

25Sport 12
4 ** Frazzle

The blankness just left of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?

FA: Paul Brouard, 2000

33Sport 15
5 *** Snapdragon

SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.

FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop, 1992

29Sport 30m, 13
6 * Hack and Slay

Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.

FA: Richard Lord, 1994

31Sport 30m, 16
7 Project

Through the roof above the dead tree. Speak to Dewald Kloppers

22Unknown
8 ** Giants

Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit...

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

27Sport 12
9 *** Karfoefeling

Awesome. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland, then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004

26Sport 13
10 *** Loslappie Link-Up

The line that should have been here first! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then move left onto Kerfoefeling; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto Ov‟land at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag!

FA: Wesley Black, 2010

28Sport 15
11 *** Welcome to Ovamboland

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010

32Sport 15
12 *** Rude Bushmen

This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

24Sport 15
13 * Normal Hard Daddy

Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen.

FA: Dan Honeyman, 2007

25Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 *** Lotter's Desire

The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

27Sport 11
15 *** Hypertension

A brilliant climb, so unique! Requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork, so much fun. Easy 8a..

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2005

30Sport 13
16 ** Tugela Blue

This route blasts through the roofs on jugs, heading slightly right. Pre clipping the 3rd bolt and unclipping bolts 1 and 2 avoids rope drag.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

27Sport 12
17 ** Out of a Limb

Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above…

FA: Mark Millar, 2006

26Sport 10
18 ** Soul Mandate

Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

25Sport 11
19 * Miss Mckinley

30 m right of Lotters Desire. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

23Sport 9
20 * The Doomsday Device

Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012

26Sport 13
21 ** Strata

Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of Tripolactic.

FA: Paul Brouard, 2001

32Sport 14
22 ** Tripolactic Fairytales

Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Was 27 then 26, now 27....

FA: Will Watkins, 1998

27Sport 10
23 * Beehive

Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1996

12Sport 15
24 * Tree House

Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine, 1996

20Sport 14
25 * Paradise By the C / Paradise By the Sea

Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

27Sport 10
26 ** Hallucigenic Toreador

Climbs the next line, a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: C Nicole, 1997

27Sport 13
27 * Brain Damaged

Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2006

22Sport 12
28 * Sleepless Tad

About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1992

22Sport 5
29 ** Club Tropicana Coconuts

Up the middle of the wall, about 8 meters left of Glen.

FA: Sybren van der Leij, 1999

24Sport 9
30 * Le Sketch

The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down!

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2003

23Sport 11
31 * Glen

Overbolted but fun. A great combination, often referred to as „Le Combo‟ (22); start up Glen then move left onto Le Sketch on the midway ledge. Place a long draw before moving onto Le Sketch.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

21Sport 15
32 * Into the Black

Just left of Precision Feather. Heavily overbolted, can skip almost every other bolt

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

21Sport 15
33 ** Precision Feather

A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

21Sport 12
34 * Almost My Balls

The first line around the corner, right of Precision Feather. Hard and scary if you can‟t reach the layback!

FA: Barry Crouse

20Sport 14
35 * Penny Royal Tee

A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face

FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996

17Sport 14
36 * Teen Spirit

The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999

20Sport 14

1.1.10. The Left Wings 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.363856, -25.664677

Description:

For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.

Approach:

A. From the Superbowl, walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gulley that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

B. Approach as for the right-hand end of the Superbowl, down the gulley, then keep left and after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Why

Climbs the easy break left of HTG up to a tree.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

20Trad
2 * Herman the German

Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.

FA: Adam, 1994

26Sport 10
3 Herman's Route

Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors.

FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992

24Sport 5
4 * True Blue

Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

16Trad
5 * Wysiwyg

Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs. Permission has been given for this route to be retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

12Trad
6 ** Chunky Monkey

The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy!

FA: FA: Mark Seuring, 1998

27Sport 9
7 ** Hounds Mousse

Through the groove 8m right of Chunky Monkey.

FA: Axel Wachter, 2000

25Sport 11
8 * New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch

This route takes the next arete right of Chunky Monkey. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.

FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

18Sport 10
9 * Home Alone

Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

19Trad
10 ** Puppet on a String

About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

19Trad
11 * Through the Looking Glass

The shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG‟s description.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

19Trad
12 * Balrog

The line left of Transmogrifier

FA: Tessa Little, 2001

25Sport 9
13 Transmogrifier

Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb

FA: Mark Seuring, 2001

26Sport 9
14 * Uiters Tors

Trad route between Transmogrifier & Endless October. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear.

FA: tewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992

21Trad

1.1.11. The Theatre 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.363827, -25.663584

Description:

A few incredible lines including some classic trad on the big obvious orange wall you can see for miles! Be brave and leave the „social‟ crags of God No and Superbowl for a day and ckeck out these brilliant lines.

Approach:

As for the Left Wing, continue another 50 metres or so until a huge slightly detached 4 metre high block is reached. The big orange left-facing wall of Heart of China is an obvious landmark.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Endless October

Starts at the left end of the ledge/block. Brilliant.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

24Sport 9
2 ** Sweet Cousin Cocaine

From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section then a finish on huge jugs. Superb.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

25Sport 10
3 ** Night of the Toast

The obvious crackline on the left of The Theatre, just right of Sweet Cousin Cocaine.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

23Trad
4 ** Bikini Red

Stunning! Better than Lotters? In the middle of the face. Name written at base. The first bolt is very high but the climbing is super easy. Don‟t stray left at the top, just trust those feet and go!

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

27Sport 9
5 Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator

Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. Very poorly protected.

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

16Trad
6 * Stage Fright

Climbs the arete to the choss above

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20Trad
7 * Centre Stage

This is the leftmost route on the right wall of The Theatre. Climbs the corner. Fight your way through the choss at the top and avoid killing people below.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

18Trad
8 *** Into the Night We Slide

Just to the right of the major dihedral in The Theatre, a few metres left of HEART OF CHINA. Sparse gear.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

23Trad
9 *** Heart of China

CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at The Restaurant.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991

Trad
10 *** Kindered Spirits

At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 2nd clip out left). Opened at 25!

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

26Sport 9

1.1.12. The Right Wings 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 30.363970, -25.662585

Description:

Has anybody been back since 1992?! If you are looking for some hidden gems go there! The path was recently cleared out by Pedley and Weaver.

Approach:

Walk on and around the corner from the Theatre.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Star Gazers

Approximately 30m right of THE THEATRE, are a pair of open books at the top of the crag. They are 10m apart - the right hand one has a pillar at its foot and a tree 5m up. Start below this one. Gain the ledge below the tree and then follow the crack above to the top of the pillar below the open book. Climb this and exit left. Apparently hard to find placements for the belay at the top.

FA: Russ Dodding, M Erens & G Erens, 1992

17Trad
2 * Waiting for Gossip

Climbs the corner to the left of Damn the Torpedoes. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the right (bolt). Climb the corner to a roof, pull through and up to a tree at the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Chris Lomax & Richard Lord, 1992

23Trad
3 * Damn the Torpedoes

Climb the „‟Indian Creek‟‟ type corner 20m left of Joy Division, left of a very steep leaning wall (Tectonic Wall).. The bolt can be seen from the ground. Great climbing with a single stopper crux.

FA: Mike Hislop, 1992

27Trad
4 Paul's Project

Some bolts on the blank face above a ledge, left of Joy Division. Ask Paul Bouard if you can open it.

31Unknown
5 ** Joy Division

The rough textured blank wall. Climb slightly rightwards with difficulty up the thin face, until you can move back left to reach the base of the corner. Carry on to the top. Originally graded 29. Totally impossible if you are short..go on, prove me wrong!

FA: Richard Lord, 1992

30Sport 12

1.1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This crag is around the corner from The Right Wing, past JOY DIVISION. If you do these climbs you deserve big respect for being keen and making the effort! Go do them!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Collapse of Reason

The left route.

FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005

23Sport 10
2 *** Rise of Faith

The right route.

FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree, 2005

22Sport 10
3 * Unexplored Galaxy

Around the corner of Rise of Faith.

FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts, 2007

21Sport

1.2. Triple Tier Crags 58 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.350880, -25.653268

Description:

When standing on top of Gaper Buttress, one looks down onto Triple Tier Crags on the other side of the gorge. It‟s an amazing place to climb and explore, there are some top class routes and lots of potential, but it just requires a little effort. Some routes here are reached by abseiling onto a stance and then climbing out.

1.2.1. The Gym 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.347666, -25.653596

Description:

Down by the water, some fun climbs but mostly short. Great on a hot day if you feel like a swim.

Approach:

Easiest is through the Elandskrans Resort which at he time of writing is closed. It is possible to pass through the resort to access the crags but probably not a great idea to leave your car here. Be vigilant.

Drive from town up the road from Roc „n Rope. After a couple of kilometers the Elandskrans Resort is reached on the left, before the road becomes a gravel road. Get dropped of here. Just after the entrance gate of Elandskrans Resort on the right, is a good path curving down to the stream (past some stone circles), following a line of old concrete fence posts. Stay on the main path until the stream where you will arrive at a wooden bridge; cross here then 15 metres after the bridge take a small path on the left. This path leads across some fields (make sure you keep left), past cairn markers, over a tiny stream through some bushes, and down onto a lovely grassy plateau (opposite the Restaurant Crag). There is a path leading down on the left to the small waterfall just upstream of the Gym. Please don‟t use the old path from the camping, which starts on the right, by a small wall, a few metres before the main hall at Elandskrans. This path is eroding badly and is steep and unpleasant. If you do end up on this path, it leads you down to a small „lookout‟ above the river, then turn right (upstream) 50 metres and the path leads into the stream by a small waterfall. Scramble downstream until the small crag can be seen.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Nothing in Moderation

Slab route at the water's edge. Take a toothbrush to clean after rain.

FA: Rachel Kelsey, 1994

23Sport 6
2 * The Dark Side

Another slab route, 3-4m right.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

22Sport 5
3 * Just Stick It

Short power face problem, the leftmost in The Gym.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

23Sport 5
4 * Booger Being

Sustained powerful route up the arete.

FA: Tim Hoole, 1994

25Sport 5
5 * Monks in the Gym

Mega power problem just right of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1993

28Sport 4
6 * Monkey Monkey

Route with power start, 3m right of the arete. Burly.

FA: John Orrock, 1993

19Sport 5
7 * Nuns on the Run

Starts just right of MONKEY MONKEY. Thin start.

FA: Ralph Brucher, 1995

27Sport 6
8 * Lithium

The original route here. About 2-3m left of the gulley.

FA: Pete Becker, 1992

24Sport 5
9 * Any Objections?

Follows a crack line just left of the gulley corner on the right of the face.

FA: Fran Botha, 1994

19Sport 7
10 * Troubled Waters

This route is most easily reached by turning left at the stream lookout where the path first comes down from the campsite. The path goes down to a plateau next to the river. Cross the river at the lip of the first waterfall. Please be careful - at least one person has fallen off here already. The route is up the little face just on the other side. There are some good holds - separated by hard moves.

FA: Ruth Ferreira, 1995

20Sport 6
11 * Like a Box of Chocolates

Take a rucksack for the lead rope. IYWITSD. This route is protected by ringbolts, starting from 2, just above and downstream of the following 2 routes. If you deviate a metre left at the crux, the grade goes down to 11/12 - still fun, though.

FA: Chris Vind, 1995

14Sport 9
12 ** Run Forest Run

Start from the lower of the belay points on the right. Climb the spotlessly clean wall, exiting left at the top.

FA: Ruth Ferreira, 1994

12Sport 11
13 * Forest Gump

Climb the same spotlessly clean wall, but move rightwards through the small roof. Take all the previous precautions for a happy ending to a great route.

FA: Ruth Ferreira, 1994

15Sport 14

1.2.2. He-Man Area 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 30.349806, -25.652835

Description:

A „lekker‟ (very nice) Crag, really quite easy to access so long as you are competent at abseiling and scrambling. Actually You‟re a Wimp is one of the best 22s at Boven. One of the main features of this crag is the infamous TIME BOMB BLOCK.

Approach:

As for The Gym. Gain the grassy plateau (above the gorge) opposite the Restaurant Crag, follow faint paths along the cliff edge, for approx 300 metres. You will see the obvious massive detached block (Time Bomb Block).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cotapaxl

Climbs the wall 10 - 20m left of IIM. This route climbs a thin (#1 Rock) size crack up the wall. Traverse left at top to avoid vegetation.

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

19Trad
2 * Bubbles Have Feelings Too

The leftmost route on u-bolts with a thin start.

FA: Mike Behr, 1996

18Sport 9
3 ** Incidentally I'm Macho

Climb the flakey break 5m left of the arete. Step left and climb straight up to the break in the vegetation. One of the top 19's at Boven.

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

19Sport 10
4 *** Actually You're a Wimp

Start with 2 bolts as for IIM. Fire straight up the wall on u-bolts to lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

22Sport 10
5 * IT

Clip 3 bolts on AYAW. Trend right into a break and up.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Stephen King, 1991

22Sport 8
6 * Super Ego

The arete.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

23Sport 9
7 * The Cat in the Hat

Approach by scrambling down the chimney behind the 2nd apartment-sized hanging block. Climb the overhanging rock in the small theatre, past two bolts, exiting up the left hand crack.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

27Trad
8 ** Shadow Man

Climb the sequential left hand edge from a hanging stance to a single bolt. Can be dusty.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

27Sport 8
9 Mind Games Projecy

Starts just right of shadow man. This is a project bolted by Alex Bester and Wesley Black. If you are keen to try it, contact Alex or Wesley. Probably well into the thirties and an amazing line. BB Alex Bester and Wesley Black Oct 2010. MCSA bolts.

Unknown Project
10 * Too Early for the Sky

Rap down 200m along from the ab-in routes at the gym. Some top bolts are found 25m before reaching the Time Bomb Block. Use the chains to ab to a stance slightly left. Enjoy the view. A fine rap-bolting affair.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992

18Sport 10
11 *** Too Late for the Stars

A perfect route to see if you like heights or not. Start 10m right of TEFTS

FA: Nerine Richards, 2002

8Sport 9
12 * The World is not Enough

Ab in 15 right of TLFTS. Be aware that you need to pendulum to the left to reach the stance, keep a sling or quick draw handy.

FA: Sean Ferguson, 2002

Sport 13

1.2.3. The Foundry 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.351414, -25.653156

Description:

Some of the steepest climbing at Boven is found here, including one of the most memorable 22s around. In an elecrical storm, hide in the back of the deepest section of the caves.

Approach:

As for He Man Area, then follow the path along the edge of the plateau. The path climbs up slightly until a ridge of large boulders is reached (cairn). The rap chains are on flat white rock on the cliff edge. You are now on top of MELTDOWN and from here you can see Jump In The Fire, the obvious steep route! Make sure everybody in your party can manage some easy climbing out. Climb out on Smelt Down (tough after a day‟s climbing) or scramble out further right around the corner (grade 12- ish.).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dance with the Wombats

Start 5m below and just to the left of VOL LIBRE. This somewhat runout route shares the last bolt and chains of VL. Please note this route is 28m long. Do not screw up your approach.

FA: Stephan Isebeck, 1994

24Sport 11
2 ** Vol Libre

Awesome face climbing off the extreme left hand edge of the small subsidiary ledge. Translation: "Free falling." Belay off cold shuts and top out if you want.

FA: John Orrock, 1994

21Sport 12
3 *** Danse De La Pluie

"Rain dance" shoots up right of VL on u-bolts with a tricky start.

FA: Jayson Orton & Ross Suter, 2000

Sport 13
4 * Mr Jive

On the arete on the lower buttress.

FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland, 1994

17Sport 5
5 * Dr Heckyl

Shares bolt 1 and chains with Mr Jive. Stay out of the corner.

FA: Jacques Holland & Glenn Harrison, 1994

18Sport 5
6 * Keep the Faith

Starts up a steep corner at the left edge of the main ledge area. Mega pump with crux at last move

FA: Günther Migeotte, 1994

25Sport 9
7 ** Mercury Rev

Wild pump up mega steep rock just to the right of KEEP THE FAITH's corner. Can be dusty if not climbed recently.

FA: Tim Hoole, 1994

27Sport 10
8 * The Surge

The line right of MR.

FA: Gilles Benier, 1997

26Sport 10
9 * Smelt

Great route with a "go-for-it" crux, about 10m left of the right hand edge of this wall.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

24Sport 10
10 ** Zoozania

Climbs the diagonal to the left of JITF. Take 4 long quick draws for the roof going diagonally up right. A.k.a. “Snake.”

FA: Doug Ward, 1994

24Sport 12
11 *** Jump in the Fire

A wild route on monster holds. Starts at the right hand edge of the main face; then rails out ahorizonyally along the side of the roof. The climb is clearly visible from the top of the crag.

FA: John Orrock, 1994

22Sport 10
12 * Coal Man

Starts about 7m south of the rock platform. Climb the slanting crack to the right and pull the roof to chains.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1995

20Sport 8
13 * Coke Stoker

The next 4 routes are on the east face of the Rock Platform. This route starts about 4m from the prominent dihedral.

FA: John Orrock, 1995

21Sport 6
14 * Smoulder

Fun route - also very reachy. 6m left of the corner.

FA: John Orrock, 1994

18Sport
15 * Smeltdown

Starts in a corner about 8m right of a large dihedral. Pull left after a few metres, then up SMOULDER to the chains. This bypasses the obvious fierce reach move. Can be used to climb out from the crag at the end of the day.

FA: John Orrock, 1994

17Sport 6
16 ** Meltdown

Starts in SMELTDOWN'S corner. Move up then right towards the skyline arete; yard up on growing incuts.

FA: John Orrock, 1994

20Sport 6
17 * Beauty

Feel like an adventure? Walk left from the abseil point along the ledge to where it ends below an open recess and to the right of a prominent nose 8m up. This point is about 10m above the base of the cliff and 15m to the right of the prominent recess, marked with bird-lime, cutting through the entire height of the cliff. Climb steeply up the corner to where it is possible to move diagonally up left onto the massive blocks on the right-hand side of the nose. Step left and up onto the face above. Move diagonally left onto a ledge. Belay on the left. Make a strenuous take-off from the right hand side of the ledge and continue awkardly up the left slanting crack to where it is possible to step left to a small ledge. Climb up and then move diagonally back right on good hand holds across an exposed face to a line of flakes sloping up left. Climb to the top of this and continue up the steep face above to the top.

FA: Paul Fatti & Mike Scott, 1992

20Trad
18 * Corney

The upper part of the climb follows the prominent, clean, right-facing corner about 20m left of the abseil point. Start just right of the prominent overhangs 10m up and climb the crack leading into a left facing corner, which goes through a steep, glossy face to a sloping ledge below the upper corner. Continue up the corner to the top.

FA: Mike Scott & Paul Fatti, 1992

15Trad
19 * Abroute

Nowdays people usually rap in using the chains of SMOULDER or SMELTDOWN. This route follows the abseil line up to the abseil tree (large stamvrug). Start up the right leaning crack and climb it via a tricky layback move 67 before stepping left to a resting point below the small overhang. Climb straight up through the overhang to the tree.

FA: Paul Fatti & Mike Scott, 1992

17Trad
20 * Offroute

Start up ABROUTE and then climb the recess on the right.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

13Trad
21 * Referendum

Abseil off the big stamvrug and then walk back 40m along the ledge towards The Restaurant. In a corner is a steep, right leaning layback crack. To the left of the corner are two very steep jam cracks, either side of a huge block. Climb the corner crack to the ledge - escape up and leftwards. This line joins the now bolted SMELTDOWN.

FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992

17Trad
22 * Shifting the Goalposts

Starts below the 15cm wide corner-crack to the right of the abseil tree. Climb the corner crack for 2m, traverse right across the slab and then gain the ledge up to the right. Ascend the delightful wall above, trending diagonally right to the blocky ledge.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1992

17Trad

1.2.4. The Acid House 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.352727, -25.653452

Description:

Enough hard and steep climbs to get you high! Could spend a full day doing classic 23‟s to 25‟s.

Approach:

Approach as for the Foundry, then walk another 100 metres or so. Abseil in from chains placed in an open book with a sandy stance on top of Cucumber Zoo, or walk along the base from the Far Side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cucumber Zoo

Climb the cool corner. Harder for midgets. Use this route to ab in.

FA: Doug Ward, 1994

19Sport 11
2 ** Nine Inch Nails

Climb just right of the big roof and corner on the left of the wall. The route takes three overlaps en route to the top.

FA: Günther Migeotte, 1994

24Sport 9
3 ** Cut Me Some Slack

The line just to the right of NIN.

FA: Stephan Isebeck, 1994

23Sport 9
4 * Like Nailing Jelly to the Ceiling

This shares the first and last bolt with the previous route. Prepare for some extended reaches, especially if you don't bump your head in most doorways.

FA: Stephan Isebeck, 1994

25Sport 10
5 * Halfway House

Rap down 5m right of the previous routes, some 15m from the big corner, to a belay above the roof or aid up to the stance using the 3 bolts under the overlap.

FA: Stephan Isebeck, 1994

19Sport 8
6 * Funky Acid Trip

Around the arete and corner - it starts about 5m from the corner.

FA: Doug Ward, 1995

27Sport 9
7 * Acid on the Brain

Starting about 8m from the corner, climb past 5 bolts. After the roof move slightly left, and head for the top.

FA: Doug Ward, 1994

25Sport 11
8 ** Mister Excellent

Starts left of the corner arête. The route is probably a grade easier for tall persons and harder for midgets.

FA: Doug Ward, 1994

25Sport 9
9 * The Cannibal

The obvious arête, probably very good.

FA: Jens Richter

28Sport 10

1.2.5. The Far Side 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.353777, -25.653035

Description:

Not many routes here but there is potential to find and open some new climbs.

Approach:

As for the Foundry, keep walking along the cliff top. A huge block can be seen hanging over a steep clean face past the overhanging crags of the Foundry and Acid House. The route NEW AGE is situated on this face. One can abseil in from anchors on the block or walk about 15m past to a scramble path to reach the base. The trail walks back to the base of the crag and eventually reaches the Acid house 130m along.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** New Age

Start up the corner crack for 6m, then head up the wall.

FA: Clive Curson, 1996

25Sport 8
2 * Joyride

Climb the previous crack to the top of the pillar. Step right to a good crack. Climb this to lower offs

FA: John Orrock, 1994

18Sport 8

1.3. The Restaurant Crags 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.347896, -25.650262

Description:

This was the first area to be developed at Boven, back in the early nineties, and still hosts some of the highest quality climbing in Boven. The crags are situated around the Elandskrans Resort which used to be a very popular campsite but at the time of writing is closed. If you visit one crag here make it the Restaurant Crag!

Approach:

At the time of writing the Elandkrans Report is closed. It is possible to pass through the resort to access the crags but probably not a great idea to leave your car here.

1.3.1. The School 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A small crag, perhaps good for a warm up before going on to Restaurant or Tripple Tier.

Approach:

As for the Restaurant, park at the Elandskrans reception (by the swimming pools). Walk back (towards the resort entrance) until you are on the other side of the main conference hall. There is a path leading down over a small wall beside some camping sites. This path leads steeply down the hillside to the river. About 50m down you will see a small path on the left, heading slightly upwards till you find the first routes after 40m or so.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Gallery

Steep start to a great face/corner. Stiff take-off.

FA: Lizette Guest, 1993

20Sport 9
2 * I Guest Not

Steep powerful arete just right of THE GALLERY.

FA: Tim Hoole, 1993

25Sport 10
3 * First Assignment

Classic at its grade. A vertical wall facing north.

FA: Lizette Guest, 1993

16Sport 9

1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This crag did not make the front cover of Rotpunkt for nothing, one of Boven‟s best. The clean leaning orange faces host some incredible routes, especially in the 20‟s. Jambo and Bonar to name just a couple.

Approach:

Drive from town up the road from Roc „n Rope. After a couple of kilometers the Elandskrans Resort is on the left, before the road becomes a gravel road. Drive in past the entrance gate and explain that you are a climber. At the time of writing the climbers could enter for free. Please respect this kind gesture and be absolutely sure you do nothing to upset the proprietors. Stop in for a beer or a meal at the Restaurant, the original Restaurant at the End of the Universe! The pizzas are huge and the deck has amazing views of the Triple Tier crags. Park anywhere out of the way. Don‟t leave valuables in the car. On foot, pass the swimming pools, heading right towards the cliffs past a warning sign (steep cliffs etc.). Just before reaching the viewpoint from the (Gaper) buttress, turn sharp right and after 20 metres the path forks. Go left and down steeply through trees over some slippery rocks. The crag can also be accessed from the left end by walking past the School sector.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Purple Droll

Climb the thin crack about 30m left of WORLDS APART and around the corner. Climb up to a tree and into a chimney.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

21Trad
2 Attack of the Killer Tree

The route to the left of the dead tree.

FA: Chris Wynn, 1997

17Sport 10
3 * Not the Nine O'Clock News

This climb used to start up a tree which has fallen away. The start is probably considerably trickier now and may a bolt or two.

FA: Mike Behr, 1997

22Sport 11
4 ** Mostly Harmless

Solid at the grade! Starts just right of a very steep smooth wall next to tree roots. The huge break up the wall is a few metres to the right.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

27Unknown 8
5 ** Eraserhead

Clip BLOCKBUSTER'S first bolt, then continue straight up as BLOCKBUSTER trends slightly right. Low in the grade.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

28Sport 10
6 * Blockbuster

Starts just right of ERASERHEAD. Can have lot of wasps nests!

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

25Sport
7 * The Playpen

Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Airy at the top.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

26Sport 10
8 ** Jambo

Climbs a small arete to a roof 5m up. Then take the left break up to anchors. One of best routes in Boven.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

25Sport 13
9 ** Flambeau

Start up the 1st 4 bolts of JAMBO, then somewhat right to chains. Don't relax too much on the headwall…

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

23Sport 12
10 * Limbo Direct

Direct start past a bolt to lunge for the branch.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

21Sport 12
11 * Limbo

Climb the tree roots 7m right of JAMBO, walk left along the limb, then up the wall to chains. Great climbing - after the tree.

FA: Andy de Klerk, 1994

20Sport 11
12 ** Jigaboo

An excellent line, so much fun.

FA: Matt Murison & Alard Hüfner, 1997

24Sport 8
13 ** World's Apart

A classic finger crack, in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Retrobolted by Lobster himself. One of the first routes here.

FA: Peter Lazarus, 1991

26Sport 9
14 * Looking for the Lobster

About 8m right of the WORLD'S APART fingercrack. Keep to the left through the tree to reach good climbing up the crack and face above.

FA: Clive Curson & Mike Bruncke, 1993

21Sport 12
15 * Access Route to Gretchen Et Al / To Gretchen Et Al

Climb up 7 bolts on a line just left of BONAR and step left to Gretchen's stance. The next 4 routes can be done from this large ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

15Sport 9
16 * Red Harvest

3m right of LFTL, starting on the lower Gretchen ledge. Can be climbed from the bottom, go right around the tree.

FA: Clive Curson & Fran Botha, 1993

19Sport 8
17 * Jungle Uncle

Climbs the shallow corner to the left of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20Trad
18 * Gretchen Goes to Nebraska

From the belay bolts on the large ledge, climb the face route left of the obvious corner.

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

21Sport 8
19 ** Amazon Aunt

Bolted jamcrack just right of Gretchen, on the same ledge. Great climb to practice trad leading.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

17Sport 10
20 * Out Through the in Door

Up the ACCESS ROUTE TO GRETCHEN ET AL; at the top of the dihedral, climb the left hand crack on the face. Gary Lotter's IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR probably goes out onto the arete now occupied by BONAR.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

22Sport 13
21 * In Through the Out Door

Climbs the line 7m right of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA, on the face left of the arete. Dicey gear, mostly small wires.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

21Trad
22 ** Bonar

Fine moves up the steep left arete on positive holds. Long and pumpy.

FA: arryl Margetts & Bernie Schumacher, 1993

20Sport 14
23 Mjs

A hardish move through the groove near the ground.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1993

18Sport 11
24 * G.P. Le Chuck

Starts as for RED HERRING, then goes left after the first bolt. Somewhat contrived finishing crux.

FA: Martin Seegers & Darryl Margetts, 1991

21Sport 9
25 ** Red Herring

fine climb up the middle of the face.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991

20Sport 25m, 9
26 * Faraday's Cage

Starts a few meters right of RED HERRING, up the right side of the face. Recently rebolted by Darryl

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Devine,, 1993

17Sport 10

1.3.3. The Gaper Buttress 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The obvious buttress down and right past the swimming pools at Elandskrans. Only a few routes but hosts one of the best 24‟s and 27 in Boven. When the campsite is busy, the top of this crag can be popular with gapers (tourists), hence the name.

Approach:

As for the Restaurant except take the trail going steeply down just to the right before walking onto the top of the buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Atomic Aardvark

A hallowed classic. Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base. Can skip some of the bolts, especially at the start to reduce drag.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

24Sport 16
2 ** The Gift

WOW! A graceful sweep of technicality, possibly best 27 in Boven. Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Some extra bolts made it less sporty some years back.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

27Sport 9
3 * The Fix

Starts from a stance 8 metres up. Rap down to the first bolt. One of the harder excrutiatingly technical climbs around. Was opened at 29.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

30Sport 9
4 * Achtung Baby

Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. This can be accessed either by rapping or scrambling up from the right.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1992

24Sport 8
5 * Zoo Station

2m right of ACHTUNG BABY.

FA: Ian Manson, Mike Cartwright, 1992

23Sport 8
6 * L'il Arete Number

About 8m right of the ZOO STATION Pillar. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

21Sport 6
7 * First Dimension

Belay at LAN's first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right. Use LAN's lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

23Sport 6

1.3.4. The Gaper Face 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The place to be if you love thin face climbing.

Approach:

The easiest trail is the one coming in from Easter Face. Alternatively just keep walking right and uphill from the base of the Gaper Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pocket Rocket

8m right of FIRST DIMENSION. Short and bouldery, not a giveaway.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

24Sport 8
2 * Lounge Lizard

The leftmost route on the face near the corner. Reachy.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

21Sport 7
3 * Brain Dead

Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

23Sport 6
4 * Gaper Caper

Step off the right edge of the ledge - climb the face to the top.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

21Sport 7
5 * Grockel Mania

Start 2m right of the ledge.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

22Sport 7
6 * Gaper Trail

Climb up as for TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE, then break up left past two bolts and a #3.5 friend placement.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

20Trad
7 * To Gape Or Not to Be

Climb the seam on the right (wires), then up the wall above past two bolts.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

20Mixed 2
8 * Deck Chair

Very thin moves up the blank slab 10m right of GROCKEL MANIA. Gets easier after a few moves.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

25Sport 7
9 * Gaper Go-Go

Start below the triangular corner. Trend slightly left towards the top.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1992

11Trad

1.3.5. The Easter Face 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Passion Play 23Unknown
2 * Crown of Thorns 24Unknown
3 Last Station 22Unknown

1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Andy's Route 19Unknown
2 Rachel's Project -Unknown
3 Psychedelic Sandwich 23Unknown
4 Tropical Front 20Unknown
5 Hammer Time 19Unknown
6 Gung Ho 24Unknown
7 The Ego Has Landed 17Unknown
8 Glass and a Half 16Unknown
9 * Wild Hearted Sun 24Unknown
10 ** Angel Dust 22Unknown
11 ** Rainbow Children 24Unknown

1.4. The Island 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.348438, -25.646562

Description:

The distinctive „island‟ of rock; the locals refer to this outcrop as „Loskop‟, literally meaning loose (standing) head; try to keep yours screwed on. The climbing has an old school feel, one of the first to be developed in Boven along with the Restaurant. The crags are not as steep as some of the newer areas but for some 4-star technical face and slab climbing this is the place to visit, especially for 18 to 26. These days these crags don‟t see much traffic these days and the forest is taking back the crags; don‟t let this put you off though, have a retro day and tick a load of old classics.

Approach:

Park at the Elandskrans Resort, as described for the Restaurant Crags. Walk past the swimming pools. At the corner of the basketball court a good path leads out over the grassy plateau. After approx 300 metres, take a faint path on the right, perpendicular to the main path. This leads to a large cairn (pile of stones) and a view across to the Island. Go steeply down (no path) into the little valley, into the trees, then up the other side on a path that leads up past some big cairns to the middle of the Island.

1.4.1. The Gulley 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A shady gulley with some nice technical slab and face climbs. The Beach is only a few metres away; combined these are probably the best crags at the Island.

Approach:

From the cairns as you arrive onto the Island, walk 50 metres across the „summit‟ and you can‟t fail to see the obvious wide gulley. Scramble down leftwards easily.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Amazonian War Dance

Climbs the face and arete at the end of the first wall on the right looking down the gulley (opposite LJS).

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

21Sport 6
2 * Long John Silver

About 15m down the gulley on the left. Climb the face to a small roof.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

20Sport 9
3 * Rock Island

The seam just right of LJS. Opened on natural gear in the dark ages. Unintentionally retrobolted and renamed Fantasia.

FA: S Middlemiss, W Jenkin & C Curson, 1992

20Sport 8
4 * Face the Music

The thin face just right of Rock Island.

FA: Lizette Guest, 1993

21Sport 9
5 ** Return to the Wolgan Valley

The smooth-looking slab 15m down from Rock Island. Not too tough for the grade.

FA: Clive Curson, Barbara Marcus, 1992

18Sport 11
6 ** Allegro Non Troppo

5m right of RTTWV. This face has a thin start.

FA: Barbara Curson, 1994

19Sport 13

1.4.2. The Beach 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Only a few metres from the Gulley. This crag hosts some great „old-school‟ face climbs, especially in the 21 to 26 range. A great day out!

Approach:

Continue further along down from the Gulley.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Gert's Nineteen

About 10m down from Allegro Non Troppo.

FA: Gert Muller, 1993

22Sport 8
2 * Gloin

Climbs up to the prominent roof crack after the gulley.

FA: Gert Muller, 1992

19Sport 9
3 ** Rain Man

A superb climb! Start 5m right of GLOIN. Excellent face climbing. Run out in parts.

FA: Ralf Tenbrink, 1994

21Sport 9
4 * Mrs Doubtfire

Crack line on the right of Rain Man. A touch runout on the crux -take a Friend 1.5 if you're worried. Easy if you are comfortable at this grade.

FA: Ralf Tenbrink, F Huber, 1994

22Sport 8
5 ** Old Spice

5m right of MD. Brilliant.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

25Sport 9
6 ** Shrine of the Sea Monkeys

Stiff crank 4m right of Old Spice.

FA: Tim Hoole, 1993

26Sport 9
7 ** Castaway

Starts up the arete low down. Very long reach to bolt through roof. The name is written on the rock.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

24Sport 9
8 * Clockwork Monkey

Starts off the platform halfway up the wall 15m right of Castaway.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

25Sport 8
9 * Comedy Waltz

Starts 5m right of Clockwork Monkey at the same level.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

23Sport 8
10 * Friday

Climb the left of the pillar, 25m beyond Castaway. Keep right of the third bolt. Fairly challenging at 23! About 19 if you stray too far to the left.

FA: Grant Murray, 1993

23Sport 6
11 * Spring Tide

Up the middle of the pillar. No shortage of bolts.

FA: Ian Guest, 1993

23Sport 9
12 * Beach Cocktail

Climb the right hand edge of the pillar.

FA: B Meinicke, 1994

16Sport 6
13 * Africa Trip

Starts about 10m right of the pillar, on the main wall. Very lead out with only a single top anchor. A good route, anyone please add another top anchor.

FA: Ralf Tenbrink & R Huber, 1994

23Sport 9
14 * Dassieburger

5m right of Africa Trip, up the blunt arete. Take care on this route with only 1 top anchor.

FA: Ralf Tenbrink, 1994

22Sport 10

1.4.3. The Boulevard 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:

As for The Gulley. Just after passing the climb Return to Wogan Valley and Allegro Non Troppo, turn right towards and right around the boulder again. A stand-alone climb, „Pending Investigation‟ is soon found on the right. The other climbs are 20 m further along.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Surf's Up

The left route. A wide variety of unusual moves.

FA: Mike Behr & Glenn Harrison, 1995

19Sport 11
2 ** Billabong

Starts 5m right of SU, on a small arete. Pull it. FA: Mike Behr & Glenn Harrison

FA: Mike Behr & Glenn Harrison, 1995

21Sport 11
3 ** Ripcurl

Start in the corner 3m right of BILLABONG. Great technical climbing, getting steadily trickier.

FA: Glenn Harrison & Mike Behr, 1995

23Sport 9
4 * Country Feeling

4m right of Rip Curl's corner is a 3-4 cm crack. Climb it to the face above.

FA: Mike Behr, 1996

17Sport 8
5 * Quicksilver

6-7 metres right of Rip Curl is another boltline near a block. Climb the face. If you use the block to the right, the route can be 18/19. Ends near the ledge on the right.

FA: Mike Behr, 1996

21Sport 7
6 * Pending Investigation

The rightmost route, hidden just left of the obvious recess. 3m from the righthand edge of the buttress.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

21Sport 8

1.4.4. Never Never Land 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

What a weird but cool place, a collection of pinnacles and chasms, you have to climb here at least once.

Approach:

As you arrive at the top of the Island, head northwest for 100 metres until you reach the corner overlooking the highway; you will see some deep dark chasms and pillars. Standing above the chasms, facing out, on the left is an open bushy gulley. Walk down this easily. Halfway down on the right is a nice ledge (Shiver Me Timbers etc are here). To get to the rest of the climbs, continue down the gulley and across a rocky slope, on the right you will see an obvious cleft/chasm with a huge chockstone. Walk up this chasm and you will arrive facing Guys Slab.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Shiver Me Timbers

Starts off the left hand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arete about 20m right of Wizards. Bolt hangers on top. Exposed belay.

FA: Mike Cartwright, Mike Loewe, 1992

18Sport 7
2 * Blunt Blade

The bolted face right of the arete and 2-3 m left of the 2 prominent cracks (By Hook Or By Crook, Tinkerbell). Look high past the the last bolt for lower off hangers.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

22Sport 6
3 No Crack Crooking

Squeezed between Blunt Blade and BHOBC's crack. Uses Blunt Blade's lower off hangers.

FA: Gert Muller, 1994

21Sport 5
4 * Thank Heaven for Little Girls

The steep left-leaning arete opposite Guys Slab Climb past the last resting place of DAVE. Lower off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw.

FA: Doug Ward & Pete Becker, 1992

23Sport 5
5 * Slick and Shine

Offwidth left of FOREVER YOUNG.

FA: Gert Muller, 1994

21Sport 5
6 Why Me?

The scoop just right of SAS. Pre-clip the first draw

FA: Mark Seuring, 1996

26Sport 4
7 * Forever Young

The short north-facing wall 10m left of Wizards' arete. Careful not to stand on the bonsai growing on the wall slightly to the right!

FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992

21Sport 8
8 ** Overboard

Right leaning diagonal break (rock #1). A one move 20.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

20Trad
9 ** Wizards

The left side of the dark arête, left of Guys Slab, with a large flat flake leaning against it. Lower off hangers on top. It is recommended to pre-clip the 83 first bolt, for climber & belayers sake. Hopefully by the time you climb this route, the bolts have been replaced.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

24Sport 6
10 * Guy's Slab

The steep and thin orange slab at the top of the approach chasm, just right of Wizards' arete. Use Wizard's lower off hangers.

FA: Paul Every, 1993

28Sport 7
11 * Skirting the Issue

Something different. Straddle the Wizards and Satin Spider aretes till it gets too wide, clipping Satin Spider's bolts to that lower-off. Definitely a size or flexibilty-dependent grade.

FA: Gert Forster, 1994

17Sport 6
12 * Dance of the Satin Spider

The arete opposite Wizards. The 2nd clip has great character. A challenging and thin 22.

FA: Shelley Carter, 1992

22Sport 6
13 * Fairy Fingers

This route is opposite Wizards with U-bolts.

25Sport 5
14 * Operasie Bullie Bief

A shocking-looking off-width, awesome when laybacked. On the back of the pinnacle that hosts Fairy Fingers.

FA: Ian Guest, 1994

23Sport 8
15 Keelhaul the Rat

Zigzags up the ever narrowing chimney.

FA: Mike Cartwright & L Waldman, 1992

17Trad
16 K1

Starts 20m down the slope from SHIVER ME TIMBERS. Climb up just right of the arete to the ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

16Trad
17 K2

Starts in the middle of the face just right of K1 (facing road).

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

17Trad
18 * K4

From the ledge, climb near the right arete to reach the base of the short crack.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

20Trad
19 ** By Hook Or By Crook

he crack in the middle of the west face. You can also use some bolts on NO CRACK CROOKING.

FA: Mike Cartwright & Fran Botha, 1992

18Trad
20 * Tinkerbell

The crack towards the right of the west face.

FA: Simon Larsen, 1993

13Trad
21 * Pixie Dust

Immediately right, around the corner from TINKERBELL. Climb grey rippled face. easier if you use the corner.

FA: Simon Larsen, 1993

14Trad
22 * Don't Do Dishes Or Rap With Pigs

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Marianne Pretorius, 2003

25Trad
23 Wishing For Fifty More Meters

Coming 20m down the gulley, scramble up an arete low down, across the face to the base of a thin crack. Climb this to the top.

FA: Marianne Pretorius & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

16Sport

1.5. Sport Valley 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.344143, -25.649242

Description:

Sport Valley is the little valley on your left when you approach the main gate of the Elandskrans Mountain Resort. Some of the climbs here are of top quality, some real gems. The Coven has a handful of 5-star classics and Flying Is Fun is possibly the best crag for very easy routes (8 to 12).

1.5.1. The Pasture 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Some pleasant but very short climbs.

Approach:

A. Park at the Elandskrans reception area, as described for The Restaurant. Walk west through the resort until you see the old put-put (crazy golf) course. 20 metres or so left of this is a good trail leading down gently into the valley, you will see the small crags of the pasture facing you. Cross over the stream and up to the base of the crag.

B. Park INSIDE the ACRA retreat – just ring the bell and the owners will welcome you. Be sure to have a beer on the deck afterwards, its stunning.. From the house, walk towards Elandskrans Resort for 120 metres, down and then left to the base of the crags.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Crack

The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence. Using the bolts on the face to the right, climb the crack and finish left up the pillar to the long chains.

FA: Rupert Leigh, 1994

14Sport 5
2 * Smoking Grass

Climb the face just right of THE CRACK. A short traverse to the right may be needed halfway up the route.

FA: Rupert Leigh, 1994

17Sport 5
3 Milkman

Climb the face just left of the arete.

FA: C Kenmuir & G Kenmuir, 1994

18Sport 5
4 Gas

Stay on the arete through overlap.

FA: C & G Kenmuir, 1994

18Mixed 4
5 Fluffy and Moo Cow

Climb face between arete and tree.

FA: J Orton, 1994

17Mixed 5
6 ** Khanyisile

Fine balancy moves up the steep wall partway up the gulley.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

20Sport 5
7 * Cowlick

Uses unusual holds up the pockmarked line left of the arete.

FA: Ruth Ferreira, 1994

19Sport 6
8 * Cowabunga

Line of bolts through roof. Exit up crack.

FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland, 1994

22Sport 6
9 * Cowboys

Starts left of, and shares 2 bolts on STARGRAZER.

FA: Glenn Harrison & Jacques Holland, 1994

20Sport 5
10 * Stargrazer

Starts in crack with chockstone. Pull straight up from underneath the bulge.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

22Sport 6
11 * Gyppo-Guts

Starts at a hollow-topped stone. Follow crack to wide roof crack, using some cunning. Pull up to chains on the right.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

21Sport 5
12 * Imodium

Climb 3 bolts on GYPPO-GUTS; traverse right; pull bulge.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1994

22Sport 6
13 * Sir Christopher's Crack

The old trad line that now has bolts thanks to Chris.

FA: Chris Wynn, 1997

18Sport 6
14 * Abattoir

Cool extended boulder problem on the far right of the crag.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

22Sport 5

1.5.2. The Coven 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

When the climbers first arrived at the Coven, the candles and grafitti made them wonder what sort of ceremonies were conducted here. Probably just a Zionist clan… anyway, this crag hosts a few amazing technical climbs. This crag used to be one of the busiest around but these days it‟s quiet, break the trend and go tick the classics; Lucifer Goes to the Gunks, Screaming Demons and Shout at the Devil and plenty of others.

Approach:

A. Drive up the hill from Roc and Rope. 300 metres past the hospital there is a gravel road on the left leading down the ACRA Retreat Bed and Breakfast. Park INSIDE the ACRA retreat – just ring the bell and the owners will welcome you. Be sure to have a beer on the deck afterwards, its stunning.. From the house. walk down the hill a little then diagonally down left along the cliff top. Cross over a small stream before finding an obvious gulley. Scramble down here and follow a trail keeping left and along the base of the crag.

B. Approach as for Flying is Fun. Then walk down a trail at the base of the route Midnight Mission, turn left and over a huge flat rock. Pass through the stream and up the other side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mampoer

This climb is on the trail, 30 metres before the main crag is reached. Climbs the buttress just before a step leading up to the gulley.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1996

18Sport 11
2 * Queen of the Night

The same as POD, but deviate neither to right nor left.

FA: Alison Cowley, 1995

24Sport 9
3 * Prince of Darkness

On the smooth brown wall at the left of the crag. At Bolt#2 up a seam on the right till this becomes too hard. Back to the middle (bolt#3 hard to clip) then up using the crack on the left. Maybe a bit easier if you're tall.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

23Sport 9
4 ** Lucifer Goes to the Gunks

10m left of the lunch spot. Pull the roof on wild holds!

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

21Sport 12
5 *** Merci My Brother

A route with hangers just right of Lucifer and also sustained.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

26Sport 9
6 * 666

Takes the thin crackline a few meters left of the main cave, past some well jammed blocks through the overlap.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

20Sport 12
7 * Eat Your Heart Out

5 bolts as for 666. Step right and break through the overlap near the right end (3-4m left of the BLACK MAGIC seam). Reachy.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

25Sport 11
8 ** Black Magic

Clip 5 bolts up 666, traverse right to a beautiful seam through the headwall directly above the cave. Take 2-3 super long draws. It is quite possible to do the route on a 50m rope. Can be done as a 2 pitch mission.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

21Sport 13
9 * See What Happens

This climb starts from a u-bolt and hanger placed just right of the start of the last pitch of black magic. One can first do BM to warm up on or climb in from the TTGTH traverse from the right.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

22Sport 6
10 * Dom Pedro

Clip first five bolts of THE PIT and move left, blast through the roof to the right of the BLACK MAGIC seam and up the open book corner. Take a couple of long slings.

FA: Jens Richter, 2000

27Trad
11 Open Project

he very steep bulge has a bolt in it and anchors and is open for anyone to try..if you feel inspired.

32Unknown Project
12 ** Tried to Go to Heaven...

A retro-bolted trad adventure. a) 17 (6D,A) Climb the PIT jamcrack just right of the cave to a stance. b) 20 (7D,A) Rail leftwards past the peapod to a stance. c) 21 (6D,A) Climb the BLACK MAGIC seam to the summit. Or just do it as one pitch with long slings and a 50m rope.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

21Sport 16
13 * The Pit

The first pitch of TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN. Climb the crack to lower-offs at a ledge. Don't blow the 3rd clip.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

18Sport 6
14 ** Babies' Blood Gives Me Gas

The open book. A bolted trad-like classic.

FA: Clive & Barbara Curson, 1994

18Sport 11
15 ** Screaming Demons

The blunt arete just right of BBGMG.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1994

24Sport 10
16 *** Shout At the Devil

Phenomenal climbing on the steep face 6m right of the BBGMG corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994

20Sport 12
17 * Helter Skelter

The thin looking face just left of the corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994

22Sport 12
18 * Howling in Hell

The left-facing corner and roof crack. More trad stuff.

FA: Clive Curson & Cathy O'Dowd, 1994

21Sport 12
19 * Howling in Hades

The right hand variation after the roof. Fingery.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

23Sport 13
20 Mad Cow

Very height dependent. One move, one star!

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1996

23Sport 9
21 * Devil's Concubine

Starts 5m right of the HOWLING IN HADES corner. Good warm up route.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Andrew Lynch, 1994

16Sport 7
22 Devil's Disciple

Starts just right of DEVIL'S CONCUBINE up a vague corner. Pull the overlap and continue up the slab above to chains.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994

19Sport 9
23 ** Route of All Evil

This climbs the root-infested gulley 10m to the right of DD. Shares chains with DEVIL'S DISCIPLE. Expect to get your ropes damp in the wet season.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine, 1995

10Sport 12
24 ** A La Carte

Starts up God of Small things then moves left then up on very small holds. Opened at 30! Alternative start bolted by A. Pedley, won‟t change the grade and nicer, being independent and direct. Opened at 30..! Needs a 2nd ascent.

FA: Jens Richter, 2003

32Sport
25 *** God of Small Things

Takes the line up the middle of the face on small holds. Superbly technical.

FA: Jens Richter, 2003

31Sport 12
26 ** Devil in a Cauldron

A fantastic line. Takes the right hand edge of the eye-catching face.

FA: Gunther Migeotte, 1994

28Sport 10

1.5.3. The Ivory Towers 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Some climbs here are slightly exposed with a nice view over the valley below.

Approach:

Continue along to the right of the COVEN. After about 50 m along over some blocks these towers lie with fun moderate climbing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bolts from Hell

45m along from the last routes of the Coven. About 2m left of the arete on the middle tower. Sort of runout at the crux.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

18Sport 10
2 * Salem

Starts in the corner right of the arete. After clipping the 2nd bolt, rail left just around the corner. Up to lower-offs.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

19Sport 8
3 * Possessed

Starts 2m up the gulley. Climb to lower-offs.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

19Sport 6
4 * Bad Omen

Climb 2m right of the last route to the same lower-offs.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

19Sport 5
5 * Hot Stuff

Follow path 15m down. Climb the South-East face of the North Tower.

FA: Ruth Ferreira, 1994

18Sport 9
6 ** Exorcist

Climbs the fine line on the Northern face of the North Tower.

FA: Mike Behr, 1994

19Sport 9

1.5.4. Flying is Fun 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This crag offers fantastic sustained easy and moderate climbs. If only it was a bit taller…

Approach:

Park at the Elandskrans Reception, as described for The Restaurant. A good path leaves the Elandskrans Resort just by the corner of the basketball court (past the swimming pools). Walk along the trail over open rocky grassland heading in the direction of the township until you arrive at the cliff edge (from where the Coven can be seen on the other side of the valley). Go down and right about 10 metres and there is a scramble down. If you have dogs or non-climbing friends there is a less defined but easier path about 70m to the left when you arrive at the cliff edge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Visions of Cosmic Doom

The arete at the bottom of the access gulley. A classic!

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

9Sport 7
2 * Texas Chainsaw Massacre

Takes in the hand crack 4m right of the VOCD. Uses the lower offs to the left or right.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

12Sport 8
3 * MRI

The wide crack just right of TCM.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

11Sport 8
4 ** Fly for Life

The recess just right. Shares 3 bolts with MRI. Can be awkward going right past the roof without technique. Trend back left to lower-off.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

13Sport 7
5 ** Dwarf Tossing

The slab just right of the arete. Head for the arete after the 4th bolt. Going straight up the face is trickier.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

22Sport 7
6 ** Rip

The prominent crackline, using the tree or traversing in under the roof to start.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

21Sport 8
7 ** Rip Direct / Rest in Peace Direct

Direct start is 23/24 - height dependent.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

23Sport 8
8 ** Midnight Mission

The seam 2m right of RIP, using anything. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more specific exercise.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

18Sport 9
9 Floating on the Storm

Crackline just right of MM. Fine line but there is a great temptation to step right onto THERMAL'S block at the crux. Probably 18 if you're short.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

16Sport 9
10 * Thermal

The easiest break in this area. Up the corner to a recess, using 5 bolts on FOTS. Step back left to FOTS lower-offs after surmounting the block.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

11Sport 9
11 Blood in the Dust

Starts in the recess just right of THERMAL/FOTS. Pull through to a ledge. Continue up the recess and arete above. Go out right to STONE COLD'S finish.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

13Sport 9
12 * Stone Cold

Takes the slanting crack just right of BITD. Continue up the arete and out right to the loweroffs at the high point.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

15Sport 8
13 * Greatest Doctor in the Universe

Start up FROZEN FLESH'S crack. Move up left to climb the face just right of the arete. Finish at the same lower- offs as STONE COLD.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

21Sport 9
14 ** Frozen Flesh

Follows the crackline right of the arete into a shallow corner. Climb the face straight above.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

24Sport 8
15 * Doa

The fierce-looking handcrack. Harder for midgets.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

19Sport 8
16 * Blood Transfusion

Start up DYING TO FLY. Move 2m left at half height to a vague seam. Climb this.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20Sport 9
17 * Dying to Fly

The first right leaning crack off the ledge, about 6m right of DOA. A bouldery move to gain the slab.

FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray, 1991

20Sport 8
18 * Three Blind Mice

The other right leaning crack - more technical but easier than DTF. Step right from the ledge - the first 5m are off-balance. Probably 19 if you work out the moves quickly.

FA: Clive Curson & Grant Murray, 1991

20Sport 8
19 * See How They Run

This is the direct start to THREE BLIND MICE, follow the crack from ground level.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

21Unknown 9
20 * The Carving Knife

From the base of the THREE BLIND MICE crack, move diagonally right on the face to the 3rd bolt. Climb straight up, joining THREE BLIND MICE to the top.

FA: Clive Curson, 1995

20Sport 9
21 ** High Noon

4m right of the ledge edge. A bit reachy. There is a lot of climbing around the 4th bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

21Sport 7
22 ** Bolted Bones

The beautiful fingercrack 4m left of the corner. Start off a little ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

17Sport 6
23 * Recovery Room

The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Finishes up the face on the left wall.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

14Sport 7
24 * Bridget Goes to Casualty

The short crack 3m right of RECOVERY ROOM'S corner.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

15Sport 5
25 * Fly By Day

On face holds 1m left of FLY BY NIGHT; uses same recess in the upper reaches, and the same bolts throughout.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

13Sport 6
26 * Fly By Night

Face move at left hand bolt line. Climb recess above.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

14Sport 6
27 * Bridget Flies Again

Face move 2m right of FBN avoiding the corner. Uses BCA's bolts.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

13Sport 6
28 * Bridget Climbs Again

Using the corner where needed and the same bolts.

FA: Clive Curson, 1991

8Sport 6
29 * Bolder Problem

The steep face on the boulder behind BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN. (Sandbagged and opened at 18!)

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1992

23Sport 5
30 *** Inspekteur Bliksem Neer / Inspector takes a big fall

The first route as you turn the corner to the left of LES TROIS MEUFS. Opened by one of the local Police officers.

FA: Alwyn Venter, 2001

15Sport 6
31 ** Les Trois Meufs

To the right behind BOLDER PROBLEM is another block. Climb the crack.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

12Sport 5
32 ** Pieter Stywe Sersant

The face right of the crack in the middle of the boulder.

FA: Johan Olivier & Deon Vermeulen, 2003

Sport 5

1.5.5. The Other Side 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

A good crag to escape to if the masses have invaded Flying is Fun.

Approach:

Approach as per Flying is Fun. 100 metres before the cliff top, large cairns (piles of stones) are obvious on the right of the path. Follow a faint trail leading diagonally down right for 60 metres, into a shallow tree-filled easy gully. Go down a bit then keep left until you arrive at the obvious huge dark detached pillar where Yuduvudu is located.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Spooks in the Closet

Goes up the orange-grey slab 5 metres left of the detached pillar.

FA: Antoinette Lessing, 1994

19Sport 7
2 * Uriel's Machine

The gap between the obvious deteched pillar and the main wall is a wide chimney. Two thirds up the chimney is a large chockstone. Layback 93 up a zig-zag crack directly beneath the chockstone. Variation: Climb the route as a chimney - somewhat easier.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

13Sport 9
3 * Toilet Brush

Two meters to the right of URIEL'S MACHINE. Starts directly beneath a small overhang five meters up. Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both UM and TB and its name is no reflection on how one climbs the route.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

12Sport 8
4 ** Yuduvudu

Near the base of the descent gulley on the right is an obvious detached pillar. This route takes the leaning dark face.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1994

25Sport 8
5 Weigh-Less Crack

On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack; if you are thin enough climb it!

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

14Sport 7
6 ** Frequent Flyer

6m right of WEIGH-LESS CRACK is a line going through a bulge in the face. The crux is getting past the bulge.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2002

17Sport 9
7 ** Voyager

3m right of FREQUENT FLYER on the same face.

FA: Etienne van der Poel, Hildegard Steinmann, 2002

14Sport 11
8 ** Blokkies Joubert

Around the corner is an appealing blunt blocky buttress has a series of blocky ledges.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

17Sport 10
9 ** Tea For Two

A face to the right and around the corner from BLOKKIES JOUBERT. The route follows a series of horizontal and vertical cracks.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

16Sport 7
10 * 2nd Anniversary

2m right of Tea for Two starting just to the left of the flaring chimney.

FA: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann, 2001

15Sport 7
11 * I drink therefore I am

Start as for 2nd Anniversary but move onto the steep column to the right, finishing just left of the overhang.

FA: Stephanie Mallory, 2003

15Sport 8
12 ** Nearly Headless Nick

8 metres right of the above is a steep east- facing yellow-grey slab. The climb starts off a big block.

FA: Cara Fleischer, 2004

17Sport 10
13 Curse of the Armadillo

A few metres right of Nearly Headless Nick. Climb the cracks up the slab and exit left.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

14Trad
14 * Of Herbs and Stewed Rabbit

Up the right arête of the flaky red wall, starting in a large crack left of the arête.. It needs a lot of gear, has some hollow rock and is included in this guide mainly because of the name!

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

22Trad
15 * Mixer Mincer Shredder Liquidizer

The bolt line up a prominent steep slab a few metres right of the aforementioned bowl. Starts off a big ledge. May your fingers have thick skin!

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

27Sport 8
16 * Short Cut to Mushrooms

Climb the crack right of MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

20Trad

1.6. The Waterfall Crags 101 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.348573, -25.638463

Description:

Waterval Boven means „above the waterfall‟ in Dutch .…and the waterfall is pretty damn impressive! To look at it from the tourist view-point is great, but to climb on the crags beside it is much more exhilarating! There are a number of crags in this area, with a stack of classic „atmospheric‟ sport and trad pitches. Make the effort to climb here at least once on your trip, a day down at the Waterfall crags is always memorable, mostly for the right reasons!

1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.344884, -25.634723

Description:

Images of ACRA wall have probably sold the idea of climbing in South Africa to more climbers than any other single face in the country. Pictures of the wall have appeared in most of the famous climbing magazines in the world, as well as on book covers, posters and almanacs. The climbing is long, sustained, with awesome views in an exposed location.

Approach:

Ask if you can be dropped off here by the friendly staff at Roc 'n Rope Adventures or one of the local climbers. From Roc & Rope, drive downhill towards the railway. At the T-junction turn right and go down the hill into the township (Emgwenya), turn left at the T-juntion. Just before reaching the waterworks, about 650m along, turn left down (the second) steep passable dirt road. This takes one over a low-level concrete bridge over the river, then turn right and right again after 100 metres at a fork. Continue underneath the main N4 highway. The parking place is the dead end just above the the Elands Falls. The abseil points are not more than 30 metres from this point. Do not leave any bags or valuables in the car, locked vehicles have been broken into here. It is better to be dropped off then walk back. 96 To access the A.C.R.A wall, walk towards the cliff top and find the correct abseil point. The abseil for climbs between Sorcery and You Too Brutus is about 20 m left in a small chimney at the top of the crag. This abseil takes you to some stepped ledges about 15 metres above the forest floor. Hang the draws on your route and chalk up a few holds on the way down. You can scramble along these ledges easily to get to the base of each of the climbs. Do not leave any bags at the top of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Urisk the Rustic Brownie

An incredible position, beside the waterfall. This is the first line to the right when looking at the waterfall. Abseil to a bolted stance 20m down and climb back out. A 60m rope is needed to escape from the stance if you do get stuck.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

23Sport 11
2 * Before Inner Child

The face left of the arete.

FA: Peter Lazarus & Tessa Little, 2002

24Trad
3 ** Sorcery

Awesome line - famous for the photo opportunity with the waterfall in the background. Starting just left of the arete, climb it. Take care, protection is sparse!

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1991

25Trad
4 *** Satan's Temple

Starts just right of the arete from a great ledge. Involves a long dyno and a very fingery headwall. An awesome climb in an awesome place.

FA: Stefan Glowacz, 1995

29Sport 14
5 *** Unlimited Power

Starts from the chains on the left of the ledge. Power moves take you steeply left and up the headwall. Was opened at 27.

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

28Sport 10
6 ** Screaming Blue Messiah

Trad line - no bolts. From the chains at the left edge of the ledge, head slightly right into the obvious break. Keep going.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

26Trad
7 ** Something Esoteric

The next crack right of SBM, about 4m right of the first corner. Quite runout but wonderful. Zap up to the chains. It is possible to access by rapping in from the tree on top.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

23Sport 9
8 * Jitterbug Perfume

The corner. The 2 existing bolts are not well placed (this & the last 2 routes will hopefully be retrobolted one day soon). Top out just right of the crack.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

25Trad
9 ** A Mixture of Frailties

Start at chains on the ledge right of the corner. Climb up easy-ish ground heading a bit left. Then it gets harder…

FA: Grant Murray, 1991

25Sport 10
10 *** You Too Brutus

From the chains climb up and thinly right. Go through the overlaps to the chains. RB in 2008.

FA: Grant Murray, 1992

26Sport 12

1.6.2. WB Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 30.346314, -25.634620

Description:

Can you guess what WB stands for!? An eerie crag, with the wind howling through the gap. Boer Skiet.. is probably the most exposed 17 in Boven, great fun at the end of a day.

Approach:

Park as for ACRA Wall. From the parking, walk back along the dirt road until a small trail after about 20m leads down to the railway. Follow the railway track to the mouth of the train tunnel. The WB Gulley is now on your right. Scramble 5 m down the gulley to belay chains with the routes on your left. [ GPS: S25 38 04.2 E30 20 43.1]

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost Track

From the WB graffiti, climb the left hand line to chains. Apart from the photo potential, this route is not as good as it looks.

FA: Grant Murray, Ian Manson, 1992

21Sport 6
2 * Boer Skiet Dief Dood

Clip the first bolt on LT, then traverse up to the right hand line. Translation : “Farmer shoots thief dead.” This was a newspaper headline that day!

FA: Ian Manson, Grant Murray, 1992

17Sport 8

1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 30.348042, -25.634253

Description:

Routes here are up to 35 metres long and the quality of the climbing is clearly imported from another solar system, several 5-star routes including arguably the best 19, best 22, 23 and 26 at Boven!. Long routes will sometimes have chains halfway up so that you can lower off twice to get down. There is plenty of potential for new lines at the right end of the crag, just be sure it‟s not one of the existing trad climbs.

Approach:

The best is to park as for ACRA then access as for the WB wall, then abseil (or scramble) down the WB gulley. At the base of the gulley, walk along the path along the base of the cliffs until you see the climbs. To exit, either scramble back up the gulley, or 101 walk approx 200 metres along the base of the crag until you reach the railway and you will arrive at the top of the WB gully. Walk back through tunnel, if a train comes, press yourself to one side (apparently safe but absolutely terrifying).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sport Climbing Is Dead

An obvious crack 20 m right of the WB gulley. The route is about 35m long.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Clinton Whaits, 1999

18Trad 35m
2 * Electric Avenue - Pitch 1

About 40m right of SCID. A few steepish moves up to the belay ledge and the start of the next pitch.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

17Sport 9
3 * Electric Avenue - Pitch 2

Continue from the ledge with rap anchors onto the top section or break it into 2 pitches.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

23Sport 9
4 * Unplugged Avenue

Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch.

FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling, 2009

Trad
5 *** Endless Summer

Face climbing can‟t get any better than this, long and technical. Over 30 metres, tie a knot in the end!

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

22Sport 14
6 ** Superfly

The similarly enjoyable but slightly harder journey just right of ES. Over 30 metres, tie a knot in the end!.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2000

23Sport 17
7 ** Good Times

Technical face climbing with a thin crux. This climb is 30+m long, be prepared to top out or bring an extra rope.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1999

23Sport 17
8 * Fudge Beats Burfee

Diagonally leftwards up to the obvious knee bar in the block under the overlap. Pull over this rightwards then easy to finish.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

25Sport 10
9 * Monkey Puzzle

Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

28Sport 11
10 ** As the World Disappears

Up the face then leftward through the overlap to a headwall crack that keeps on coming. 30+m route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

26Sport 13
11 * Caffeine Jitters

Was a trad climb, rebolted recently. Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'ATWD' and head for the two protruding trees, then climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top. The climb can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

13Trad
12 ** Trippin' on Life

The long face just left of CJ.

FA: Jens Richter, 2000

24Sport 15
13 ** To Crack Or Not to Crack

pitch 20** 20m Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's or huge cams and up to the obvious ledge. Pitch 15** 12m Continue straight to the top. Can be done in a single pitch.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

20Trad 32m
14 ** Who's Your Daddy?

A nice long warm-up!? One of best 19‟s in Boven.

FA: Alex Janse van Rensburg, 1999

19Sport 12
15 ** The Three Mosquitos

Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing. You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back West towards the mouth of the tunnel. So end your day with this line to avoid the scrambles!

FA: Thulani Mazibuko, 1999

21Sport 18
16 *** Chakalaka

Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES.

FA: Bine Tittel, 2005

20Sport 12
17 ** Unterwegs Nach Haus

Just right of the arete, 30+m long. so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

24Sport 13
18 * Wish You Were Here

Share the first couple of bolts with UH, then out right. Ever so slightly run out!!

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

23Sport 13
19 * Nature of Being

Ever so slightly run out!!! Take a #0 and #0.5 Friend plus a #1 rock for in case you need it.

FA: Volker Schweinbenz, 1999

21Sport 9
20 *** Transmutation

About 50m left of Heck, Tick. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

22Trad
21 * Along For The Ride

Start at large flaring offwidth crack. Climb the crack till it ends and move left to a tree stance. Step out left and climb crack till roof and rail left 2 meters. Pull through break and up headwall. Take small gear.

FA: Alard Hüfner, Mark Seuring & Douard le Roux, 2003

21Trad
22 *** Heck, Tick

Starts below on an obvious corner capped by large roofs 15m above. Climb the corner and bypass the roofs on the left, then straight up the head wall.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

16Trad
23 Static Scampering

Climb the corner 2m left of DFADS; bypass overhang on left and scamper up slab through overlap to top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Mark Seuring, 2003

18Trad
24 ** Dust From A Distant Sun

Starts 15m left of FTL. Climb short overhanging crack. Step 1m right and pull through roof. Climb slab tending slightly left to good abseil tree. (Intricate gear placements).

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

19Trad
25 ** Follow The light

Coming from the East End, 20m from the tunnel mouth, climb the obvious roof crack by the big tree. From the halfway ledge climb the off-width to the top.

FA: Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

25Trad

1.6.4. The East End 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 30.348821, -25.633894

Description:

A good crag to do some trainspotting...

Approach:

Park as for ACRA wall then walk back down the road 20 metres then down a little path on the right onto the railway. Go in easterly direction along the railway then through the tunnel (if a train comes press flat against the side, apparently its safe but absolutely terrifying!). When you exit the tunnel, the EAST END is found on the left after crossing another railway line coming out of a 461 m tunnel.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Train Massacre

From the 461m long train tunnel, walk up 10m to find the first bolt.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

25Sport 8
2 * Boipatong

6m right of the fence (right of TM). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake) up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.

FA: M Loewe & S Hofmeyr, 1992

19Trad

1.6.5. Toon Town 33 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 30.351282, -25.636787

Description:

Lots of trad classics and some bolted ones too. The potential here (also behind it on the other side of the ridge) is largely untapped and one looks down into the valley with the falls lurking constantly behind you when you climb.

Approach:

Take the N4 highway (east) towards Nelspruit. 1,7km after exiting the tunnel, a dirt road turns left and crosses the Elands river. Always stay left on this up the hill, back in the direction of the waterfall until a parking place is reached after a right bend. This road is known not to always be in good condition. Do not leave any bags or valuables in the car, locked vehicles have been broken into here. From the parking, cross the railway track and walk up the hill on faint paths up to the cliff. On the left is an impressive face with a great fingercrack, MANNENBURG. The next west face to the left has a seam, THE COLOR PURPLE bounded by 2 wider cracks.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Topless Skateboard Nun

About 50m left of AFRICAN ODYSSEY, are some big roofs halfway up the crag. Start up the obvious crack below these and traverse left on the ledge until you are below the left hand end of the roof. Climb the crack to the roof. Pull through the cubby hole onto the slab (crux needs friend #and follow the crack to the top.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

23Trad
2 * Under a Choking Sun

4m right of TSN. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a big shallow corner (crux) to grassy ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless!

FA: M Loewe, A Lainis, 1992

19Trad
3 * African Odyssey

Starting towards the left, follow the bolts into the centre of the face, then up a crack to finish. Take your thinnest fingers.

FA: Andrew Lainis, 1992

25Sport 13
4 * Little Man's Complex

Climb the corner, moving left onto the slab and up to the coldshuts.

FA: M Loewe, 1992

22Trad
5 * Rachel and Rebecca

The short but good-looking corner left of the arete project.

FA: C Curson, B Marcus & L Waldman, 1992

18Trad
6 Poes in Boots

Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the an open project. 30m right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. The 3rd clip is tricky, a gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains on the arete.

FA: Brett Clarke, 1992

26Trad
7 * Night of the Crash Test Dummies

The biggest crack line on the left. Traverse slightly right at the top to exit.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1991

17Trad
8 ** The Colour Purple

On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes at about 15. The seam in the middle is this one. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes.

FA: Jeremy Colenso & Ian Manson, 1991

23Trad
9 * Eccentrica Gallumbitz

The wider crack just to the right.

FA: Jeremy Colenso & Ian Manson, 1991

20Trad
10 * Day of Decimation

in a crazy wild place. The arete right of the 3 cracks. Permission has been granted for retro-bolting!

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1992

26Trad
11 * Black Planet

Around the arete to the right of the 3 cracks are 2 subsiduary corners. The right hand one is not too pleasant (grade - 22/23). This route is the left one.

FA: Clive Curson & Barbara Marcus, 1992

20Trad
12 Dark Star

pitch 20 Climb the right corner. Exiting left. Pitch 23 Optional pitch but not recommended. Move back right to the corner.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

20Trad
13 ** Mannenburg

Start 4m right of the corner, climb the short face to below the roof, turn this and climb the crack to the top.

FA: Ian Manson & R Uken, 1992

25Trad
14 * White Arses

Behind the approach boulders 10m left of the Happy Acres Block. This is the line of ring bolts to the left of the obvious right- slanting crack.

FA: Kohle, 1993

17Sport 4
15 Slanting Crack

Climb the rightward slanting crack.

14Trad
16 ** The Lightness of Being

The line of ring bolts to the right of the crack.

FA: M Jager, 1993

25Sport 5
17 * Kimosabe the Music's Starting

A finger crack up the on-balance wall, opposite the cave. Starts just right of the short, obvious layback crack.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1991

15Trad
18 * Roger Strikes Back

Starts 6m left of the offwidth, DBB just left of HAPPY ACRES CAVE. Go thinly up a seam, then up right until able to go up and back leftwards to lower offs near the arete.

FA: Clive Curson, 1992

24Sport 9
19 ** Death By Banda

Climb the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for the whole family. Take along 4 friends in the range #3.5 to #4.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & C Lomax, 1992

23Trad
20 The Immaculate Misconception

Climb the crack line inside the cave.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

21Trad
21 Champion Barbed-Wire Hurdler

Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. Start below the large open book on the boulder. Climb past a roof 106 to a ledge at 5m. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack, to exit past hollow flakes.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1992

19Trad
22 Thompson & Thompson

Situated on the Happy Acres Boulder, opposite DEATH BY BANDA.

16Trad
23 * Tramplepath

Another line of bolts, on the left of the Happy Acre Boulder.

FA: German Raiders, 1993

20Sport 5
24 Whistle Stop

On railway side of boulder. Start in a small corner 5m right of the edge of the boulder, below the obvious broad crack line. Climb the crack.

FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992

17Trad
25 * Minnie Mouse Menopause

On the south face of the boulder. The slab with two bolts right of the big chimney crack. Take along a #2 friend.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

22Trad
26 * Fred's Cornflake Collection

Climb the big flake line right of MMM.

FA: A Gillet, A Russel-Boulton, 1992

14Trad
27 Kill the Wabbit

Climb the on-balance wall right of FCC. Move right towards the arete to the broken crack half way up, then straight up.

FA: A Gillet & A Russel-Boulton, 1992

14Trad
28 ** The Bart Man

Situated on the main wall on the south side of the Happy Acres Boulder. The obvious flake line left of the chimney.

FA: A Russel-Boulton & A Gillet, 1992

18Trad
29 ** It's No Bulldog

The obvious thin crack line left of SUTBID.

FA: Ian Guest, 1992

22Trad
30 Something Under the Bed Is Drooling

The short crack behind the pinnacle. Seam on left, long crack on right.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

20Trad
31 Dopey Does De Aar

Still no sign of Dopey. Somewhere out there does he lurk.

FA: A Russel-Boulton, 1992

16Trad
32 Pink Panther Se Pillar

The climb follows the overhanging crack up the back of the pillar, opposite SUTBID.

FA: G Laurens & F van der Linder, 1992

17Trad
33 * Palm It Off

Right of the BART MAN flake is a short pillar against the face. Next to this you may find this climb.

FA: Ian Guest, 1992

24Sport 8

1.6.6. The Wild SIde 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.352064, -25.640331

Description:

After doing all the other routes in Waterval Boven, this crag with awesome views of some other (better) crags will be waiting. Around the corner to the East lies great potential for new routing.

Approach:

As for Toon Town, just hike around to the right [ GPS: S25 38 26.2 E30 21 06.7]. There is also an easy walk up from the Island side of the hill [ GPS: S25 38 28.8 E30 21 00.9].

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Easy Street

Start from the cave/recess and climb the left break on the prominent wall.

FA: G Laurens, Dave Walden & R van Wyk, 1993

16Trad
2 * Flies on the Back of a Cow

Start a few metres right of EASY STREET and climb the right break on the prominent wall

FA: G Laurens, Dave Walden & R van Wyk, 1993

18Trad
3 * Moon Dreamer

On the next wall to the right. Climb the line just right of the recess finishing up the left leaning break.

FA: G Laurens & Dave Walden, 1993

20Trad
4 * Sloth on the Loose

The object is the nice looking headwall up on the right. Start a few metres right of MOON DREAMER and climb up to the headwall. Follow the neat line to the top.

FA: G Laurens & Dave Walden, 1993

22Trad

1.6.7. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (East) 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.346425, -25.638313

Description:

This tunnel is a National Monument. Leave your valuables at home and do not trust suspicious looking characters. Be brave.

Approach:

The safest parking is found at the new tourist information stop when you drive through the road tunnel towards Nelspruit and turn off on the left immediately after exiting the tunnel. From here, hike towards the old ZASM tunnel, a national monument. The crag 108 is on your left. There is some potential here, but beware of locals lurking around. Leave your valuables at home.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * RETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA / Tetrograd Rat and the Yeoville Diva

Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance 5m right of TREE LOVE's rock start. Climb the corner through a roof, 3m right of the prow. Exits up left groove/ chimney.

FA: Mike Cartwright & M Loewe, 1992

22Trad
2 * Tree Love

FA: M Loewe, Mike Cartwright & F Botha, 1992

17Trad

1.6.8. The Junkyard 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.346976, -25.636901

Description:

Some of the best trad climbs at Boven, and great views of the waterfall. However, it‟s a pity the ledges and the base of the crag are littered with nasty rubbish (the locals use the clif as a dumping site..). It‟s still worth it for the 4 and 5 star lines though.

Approach:

Drive into the township, pass the post boxes and Shebeens (bars) then take the next right. Follow this road, around a bend past the high school on the left. After another 100 metres, take a sharp right beside house „675‟. Follow this rough track, through the grass, past some pig sties to a rocky parking area by some large prehistoric-looking plants. Walk to the large rocks at the cliff edge and on the right you will see wide gully. Further right you can look down onto the detached pillar which hosts „Coming Of Pride‟ etc. Scramble easily down the gully 5 metres to the large fig trees. Abseil off one of the trees 18 metres to the ground. Leave a top rope up so that you can climb out (grade 12 ish). „Two For Tree‟ (17) climbs the right wall (looking out) of the gulley.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Just Before Breakfast

On the far left of the crag, past the Coming Of Pride pinnacle there is an obvious in a gulley crack (on the right when looking down the gully).

FA: Volker Schweinbenz & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 1999

18Trad
2 Eastsoloing

Climb the arete on the opposite side of the pinnacle to Coming Of Pride.

FA: M Jager, 1992

15Trad
3 South Corner

Climb the recess of the right of the pillar on the river side of the pinnacle.

FA: R Johler, 1992

15Trad
4 Styling

Climb the arete left of Coming Of Pride.

FA: R Kohler, 1992

17Trad
5 *** Coming of Pride

Climb the crack system up the front of the pinnacle. (The waterfall lurks behind you while climbing).

FA: M Brunke & Stewart Middlemiss, 1991

17Trad
6 ** Out of Germany

The amazing yellowish arête to the right of Coming Of Pride, with the big german-style (spaced!) ring bolts. You may need friends #.5, #2.5 at the bottom. Use some lower-offs on LB.

FA: R Jager, 1993

23Trad
7 Little Bitch

Climb the wall of the pinnacle, to the right of the Out Of Germany arête. Starts in a finger crack then up the left trending seam.

FA: M Jager, 1992

24Trad
8 * Funky Fruit

On the main face opposite Out of Germany. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right.

FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet, 2006

16Trad
9 * Two For Tree

Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up.

FA: Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

17Trad
10 * You Can Take Your Dog To The Water

Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

18Trad
11 * Wizard Of Oz

Starts about 30m right of little bitch at a face just right of an obvious recess. Pitch 1. 11 * Climb tree for 5m, step over to face. Pitch 2. 16 * Move through overlap up from ledge and up a crack. Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge.

FA: Clive Curson, Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko, 2000

16Trad
12 The Gutter

Start as for NN, but climb the face. Pitch 1. 15 From thin moves with tricky protection straight up the face to the ledge. Pitch 2. 15 * From the far left end of the ledge, climb up traversing diagonally back towards a crack after 3m. Then straight up to an exposed scramble left on a ledge.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Thulani Mazibuko, 2000

15Trad
13 ** Keep It 'N Reap It

Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter, 2004

17Trad
14 * Et Tu Ceaser

A rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

19Trad
15 *** Boa Rodeo

Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton

FA: Jens Richter, 2003

31Trad
16 *** Mulungu Goes To School

Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.

FA: Jens Richter, 2005

32Trad
17 * Scrabble

Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall.

FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter, 2003

18Trad
18 * Khamikazi Leila

Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton, 2004

17Trad
19 *** In My Place

Unbelievable. 30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk, 2004

19Trad
20 * Thornification

Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004

18Trad

1.6.9. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (West) 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 30.346017, -25.636430

Description:

Why on why…? Only the British! Some young English lads found THIS spot to climb - and write it up!

Approach:

From the viewing deck on the West side of the tunnel, walk out towards the road. The route is on your left

History:

This is not really a crag, but in fact an artificially made area. The engineers of the late 1800‟s blasted out this passage and dumped all the rocks out on the scree slope below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 FANTASY FONDUE FORFIT

At the west entrance, 8m right of an old fence take the right hand crack till some loose blocks. Pull up and left through a roof, traverse 2m and exit up an easy crack.

FA: Ian Caunt, 2001

15Trad

1.6.10. Waterval Onder - Luilekker Crags 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road a few kms past Boven on the N4. Call Louw Pretorius, the owner of Luilekker Guest House on +2713 257 7056. These crags have great potential and the land owner is keen to get more routes developed. Be friendly to him and report to reception before climbing here.

Approach:

Take the N4 highway in the direction of Nelspruit. Look for the well sign posted Luilekker Guest House, 2.5km after the tunnel on the right. [ GPS: S25 38 51.9 E30 21 49.7 1270 m]. The big rambling dark red brown cliffs on the right side of the road

History:

The bowl-like feature faces north and bakes throughout the year. This crag could be slightly warmer than those in Waterval Boven due to the drop in altitude as one drives down. Best go on a cloudy cold day or in the evening.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * CEASARS BOWL

This route, the first on the crag, follows a line up the middle of the main face. Pitch 1. 17 * 35m. Start on the face 10m left of the obvious, shallow lunch cave. Climb up tending right into a recess till a large ledge below an overhanging face. Pitch 2. 23 20m. Start at back left corner of ledge. Climbs strenuous corner crack for 6m the traverse right for 3m on good holds and exposure. Fire 112 straight up to a ledge from where one can belay and walk off.

FA: Alard Hüfner & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001

23Trad

1.6.11. Waterval Onder - The Aloes 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

This crag can be seen from the increasingly popular Aloes Restaurant and Backpackers Lodge.

Approach:

Drive out of town, turn right on the N4 to Nelspruit and through the tunnel. 3.5km after the tunnel on your left is a parking area [ GPS: S25 38 44.2 E30 22 26.5] in front of the Aloes Backpackers and Restaurant. Kevin and Tracy manage this spot and will look after your car if you buy some fresh or smoked trout and a drink from them afterwards. Cross the N4 and walk straight up the hill.

History:

This North facing crag could be quite warm. The route ALLO, ALOE will enjoy morning shade in its right facing corner. There is still loads of potential for sport or trad lines.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * ALLO ALOE

This route climbs the obvious right facing break that forms a corner in the middle of the face. The opening party climbed it in two pitches of 25 metres each. From the top, walk 15m right to a good abseil tree. Abseil to ledge and another good tree will bring you back to the ground.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen, 2001

15Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
8 *** Too Late for the Stars Sport 9 1.2.2. He-Man Area
* Bridget Climbs Again Sport 6 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
9 * Fadja's Revenge Sport 5 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Visions of Cosmic Doom Sport 7 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
10 ** Route of All Evil Sport 12 1.5.2. The Coven
11 * Gaper Go-Go Trad 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
* MRI Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Thermal Sport 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
12 ** Thorns Between the Roses Sport 7 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
I R Baboon Sport 5 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Mountain Pursuit Sport 7 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Spare Rib Sport 7 1.1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Beehive Sport 15 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Wysiwyg Trad 1.1.10. The Left Wings
** Run Forest Run Sport 11 1.2.1. The Gym
** Les Trois Meufs Sport 5 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Texas Chainsaw Massacre Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Toilet Brush Sport 8 1.5.5. The Other Side
13 Fisticuffs Sport 5 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Offroute Trad 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Tinkerbell Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
Blood in the Dust Sport 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Bridget Flies Again Sport 6 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Fly By Day Sport 6 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** Fly for Life Sport 7 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Uriel's Machine Sport 9 1.5.5. The Other Side
* Caffeine Jitters Trad 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
14 A.S Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Baboons in Boardshorts Sport 7 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Forest Glump Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Ladder Sport 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Like a Box of Chocolates Sport 9 1.2.1. The Gym
* Pixie Dust Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* The Crack Sport 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
* Fly By Night Sport 6 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Recovery Room Sport 7 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
Curse of the Armadillo Trad 1.5.5. The Other Side
** Voyager Sport 11 1.5.5. The Other Side
Weigh-Less Crack Sport 7 1.5.5. The Other Side
* Fred's Cornflake Collection Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Kill the Wabbit Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Slanting Crack Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
15 * Butterfly Snowstorm Sport 7 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Chics for Free Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Gravy Train Unknown 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Hamster Hotel Sport 6 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
It's 13 Jim, But Not As We Know It Sport 6 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Man Slaves Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Rocky's Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Smokey the Bear Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Teacher's Pet Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Chicken Wing Sport 8 1.1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Crack Up Sport 5 1.1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Forest Gump Sport 14 1.2.1. The Gym
* Corney Trad 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Access Route to Gretchen Et Al Sport 9 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Bridget Goes to Casualty Sport 5 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
*** Inspekteur Bliksem Neer Sport 6 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Stone Cold Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* 2nd Anniversary Sport 7 1.5.5. The Other Side
* I drink therefore I am Sport 8 1.5.5. The Other Side
* Kimosabe the Music's Starting Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Eastsoloing Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
South Corner Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
The Gutter Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
FANTASY FONDUE FORFIT Trad 1.6.9. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (West)
* ALLO ALOE Trad 1.6.11. Waterval Onder - The Aloes
16 * After Thoughts Sport 5 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Grizzly Behr Sport 9 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Angel of Mercy Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Cenotaph Corner Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Clockwork Orange Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
Mission from Glod Sport 11 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Sand Glod Sport 12 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Zellweger Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* True Blue Trad 1.1.10. The Left Wings
Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator Trad 1.1.11. The Theatre
* First Assignment Sport 9 1.3.1. The School
Glass and a Half Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
* Beach Cocktail Sport 6 1.4.2. The Beach
K1 Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
Wishing For Fifty More Meters Sport 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Devil's Concubine Sport 7 1.5.2. The Coven
Floating on the Storm Sport 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** Tea For Two Sport 7 1.5.5. The Other Side
*** Heck, Tick Trad 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
Dopey Does De Aar Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Thompson & Thompson Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Easy Street Trad 1.6.6. The Wild SIde
* Funky Fruit Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* Wizard Of Oz Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* Hey Mamma Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Last Hurrah Sport 7 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
17 * Loopdop Sport 7 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Up Alard's Crack Sport 10 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Whait Watcher Pitch One Sport 5 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Lucy Sport 25m, 12 1.1.4. The Disciple Wall
* Aussie Rules Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* B & B Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Hemp on the HIll Sport 11 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Lining Your Pockets Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
Reminiscing Sport 11 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Claregate Sport 12 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Pallbearer Sport 6 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Zellweger Variation Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Golden Pie Sport 7 1.1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Zooter Sport 9 1.1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Penny Royal Tee Sport 14 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Star Gazers Trad 1.1.12. The Right Wings
* Abroute Trad 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Mr Jive Sport 5 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Referendum Trad 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Shifting the Goalposts Trad 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Smeltdown Sport 6 1.2.3. The Foundry
** Amazon Aunt Sport 10 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
Attack of the Killer Tree Sport 10 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Faraday's Cage Sport 10 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
The Ego Has Landed Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
* Country Feeling Sport 8 1.4.3. The Boulevard
K2 Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
Keelhaul the Rat Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Skirting the Issue Sport 6 1.4.4. Never Never Land
Fluffy and Moo Cow Mixed 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
* Smoking Grass Sport 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
** Bolted Bones Sport 6 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** Blokkies Joubert Sport 10 1.5.5. The Other Side
** Frequent Flyer Sport 9 1.5.5. The Other Side
** Nearly Headless Nick Sport 10 1.5.5. The Other Side
* Boer Skiet Dief Dood Sport 8 1.6.2. WB Wall
* Electric Avenue - Pitch 1 Sport 9 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Night of the Crash Test Dummies Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Pink Panther Se Pillar Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Whistle Stop Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* White Arses Sport 4 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Tree Love Trad 1.6.7. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (East)
*** Coming of Pride Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
** Keep It 'N Reap It Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* Khamikazi Leila Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
Styling Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* Two For Tree Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
18 Twice in a Blue Moon Sport 7 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sarel Seemonster Sport 28m, 12 1.1.4. The Disciple Wall
* Banging Bridget Jones Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Captain Hook Sport 12 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Old Crusty's Last Stand Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Snakeskin Safari Suit Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Harder You Push, the Harder it Gets Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Variation to Wood Pile Crack Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Wood Pile Crack Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch Sport 10 1.1.10. The Left Wings
* Centre Stage Trad 1.1.11. The Theatre
* Bubbles Have Feelings Too Sport 9 1.2.2. He-Man Area
* Too Early for the Sky Sport 10 1.2.2. He-Man Area
* Dr Heckyl Sport 5 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Smoulder Sport 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Joyride Sport 8 1.2.5. The Far Side
Mjs Sport 11 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
** Return to the Wolgan Valley Sport 11 1.4.1. The Gulley
** By Hook Or By Crook Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Shiver Me Timbers Sport 7 1.4.4. Never Never Land
Gas Mixed 4 1.5.1. The Pasture
Milkman Sport 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
* Sir Christopher's Crack Sport 6 1.5.1. The Pasture
** Babies' Blood Gives Me Gas Sport 11 1.5.2. The Coven
* Mampoer Sport 11 1.5.2. The Coven
* The Pit Sport 6 1.5.2. The Coven
** Bolts from Hell Sport 10 1.5.3. The Ivory Towers
* Hot Stuff Sport 9 1.5.3. The Ivory Towers
** Midnight Mission Sport 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** Sport Climbing Is Dead Trad 35m 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
Static Scampering Trad 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Rachel and Rebecca Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
** The Bart Man Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Flies on the Back of a Cow Trad 1.6.6. The Wild SIde
** Just Before Breakfast Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* Scrabble Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* Thornification Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* You Can Take Your Dog To The Water Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
** Renewable Energy Sport 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
19 ** Jamani Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Qina Sport 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** The day of the Triffids Sport 25m, 14 1.1.4. The Disciple Wall
* Doom Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Dream Come True Sport 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Five Lives Left Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Neither Here Nor There Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Once in a Blue Moon Sport 11 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Slim JIm Sport 7 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** The Winnebago Smile Sport 12 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Brunch Sport 8 1.1.7. Breakfast Crag Wall
* Home Alone Trad 1.1.10. The Left Wings
** Puppet on a String Trad 1.1.10. The Left Wings
* Through the Looking Glass Trad 1.1.10. The Left Wings
* Any Objections? Sport 7 1.2.1. The Gym
* Monkey Monkey Sport 5 1.2.1. The Gym
* Cotapaxl Trad 1.2.2. He-Man Area
** Incidentally I'm Macho Sport 10 1.2.2. He-Man Area
* Cucumber Zoo Sport 11 1.2.4. The Acid House
* Halfway House Sport 8 1.2.4. The Acid House
* Red Harvest Sport 8 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
Andy's Route Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
Hammer Time Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
** Allegro Non Troppo Sport 13 1.4.1. The Gulley
* Gloin Sport 9 1.4.2. The Beach
** Surf's Up Sport 11 1.4.3. The Boulevard
* Cowlick Sport 6 1.5.1. The Pasture
Devil's Disciple Sport 9 1.5.2. The Coven
* Bad Omen Sport 5 1.5.3. The Ivory Towers
** Exorcist Sport 9 1.5.3. The Ivory Towers
* Possessed Sport 6 1.5.3. The Ivory Towers
* Salem Sport 8 1.5.3. The Ivory Towers
* Doa Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Spooks in the Closet Sport 7 1.5.5. The Other Side
** Dust From A Distant Sun Trad 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Who's Your Daddy? Sport 12 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Boipatong Trad 1.6.4. The East End
Champion Barbed-Wire Hurdler Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Under a Choking Sun Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Et Tu Ceaser Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
*** In My Place Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
20 * No More Dynamo Sport 8 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Halongmaishlong Sport 13 1.1.5. The Little Red Wall
* Comfort Zone Sport 6 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Emancipated Spider Chicks Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** High Speed Dirt Sport 11 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** I Just Cant Bolt It Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Moondance Sport 12 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Rat Pallace Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Santa's Little Helper Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Almost My Balls Sport 14 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Teen Spirit Sport 14 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Tree House Sport 14 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Why Trad 1.1.10. The Left Wings
* Stage Fright Trad 1.1.11. The Theatre
* Troubled Waters Sport 6 1.2.1. The Gym
* Beauty Trad 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Coal Man Sport 8 1.2.3. The Foundry
** Meltdown Sport 6 1.2.3. The Foundry
* The Gallery Sport 9 1.3.1. The School
** Bonar Sport 14 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Jungle Uncle Trad 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Limbo Sport 11 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
** Red Herring Sport 25m, 9 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Gaper Trail Trad 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
* To Gape Or Not to Be Mixed 2 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
Tropical Front Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
* Long John Silver Sport 9 1.4.1. The Gulley
* Rock Island Sport 8 1.4.1. The Gulley
* K4 Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
** Overboard Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Cowboys Sport 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
** Khanyisile Sport 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
* 666 Sport 12 1.5.2. The Coven
*** Shout At the Devil Sport 12 1.5.2. The Coven
* Blood Transfusion Sport 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Dying to Fly Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* The Carving Knife Sport 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Three Blind Mice Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Short Cut to Mushrooms Trad 1.5.5. The Other Side
*** Chakalaka Sport 12 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** To Crack Or Not to Crack Trad 32m 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Black Planet Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Dark Star Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Eccentrica Gallumbitz Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Something Under the Bed Is Drooling Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Tramplepath Sport 5 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Moon Dreamer Trad 1.6.6. The Wild SIde
19 ** Dead Gecko Sport 7 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Roundabout Now Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
21 Up in Smoke Sport 10 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Whait Watcher Pitch Two Sport 8 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Goodwill van die Zoeloes Sport 28m, 13 1.1.4. The Disciple Wall
** Ay Maar Die Mens Is N Wonderllike Ding Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Bongoleo Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Cloud City Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Iron Lotus Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Saint Gabriel Sport 6 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Shroom Hunter Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Smoking Dread Locks Sport 5 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
You Mean That's It Unknown 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Glen Sport 15 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Into the Black Sport 15 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Precision Feather Sport 12 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Uiters Tors Trad 1.1.10. The Left Wings
* Unexplored Galaxy Sport 1.1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
* Coke Stoker Sport 6 1.2.3. The Foundry
** Vol Libre Sport 12 1.2.3. The Foundry
* G.P. Le Chuck Sport 9 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Gretchen Goes to Nebraska Sport 8 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* In Through the Out Door Trad 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Limbo Direct Sport 12 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Looking for the Lobster Sport 12 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Purple Droll Trad 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* L'il Arete Number Sport 6 1.3.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Gaper Caper Sport 7 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
* Lounge Lizard Sport 7 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
* Amazonian War Dance Sport 6 1.4.1. The Gulley
* Face the Music Sport 9 1.4.1. The Gulley
** Rain Man Sport 9 1.4.2. The Beach
** Billabong Sport 11 1.4.3. The Boulevard
* Pending Investigation Sport 8 1.4.3. The Boulevard
* Quicksilver Sport 7 1.4.3. The Boulevard
* Forever Young Sport 8 1.4.4. Never Never Land
No Crack Crooking Sport 5 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Slick and Shine Sport 5 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Gyppo-Guts Sport 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
** Black Magic Sport 13 1.5.2. The Coven
* Howling in Hell Sport 12 1.5.2. The Coven
** Lucifer Goes to the Gunks Sport 12 1.5.2. The Coven
** Tried to Go to Heaven... Sport 16 1.5.2. The Coven
* Greatest Doctor in the Universe Sport 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** High Noon Sport 7 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** Rip Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* See How They Run Unknown 9 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
Lost Track Sport 6 1.6.2. WB Wall
* Along For The Ride Trad 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Nature of Being Sport 9 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** The Three Mosquitos Sport 18 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
The Immaculate Misconception Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
22 ** Adam Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Irritable Male Syndrome Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Luckly Leila Sport 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Bittergal Sport 28m, 14 1.1.4. The Disciple Wall
** Dead Ant Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Lion Hunt Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
Mike Behr's Route Unknown 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Searching Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** The Trees Are Machines that make Sweets for the Fish Sport 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Brain Damaged Sport 12 1.1.9. The Superbowl
Project Unknown 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Sleepless Tad Sport 5 1.1.9. The Superbowl
*** Rise of Faith Sport 10 1.1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
* The Dark Side Sport 5 1.2.1. The Gym
*** Actually You're a Wimp Sport 10 1.2.2. He-Man Area
* IT Sport 8 1.2.2. He-Man Area
*** Jump in the Fire Sport 10 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Not the Nine O'Clock News Sport 11 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Out Through the in Door Sport 13 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Grockel Mania Sport 7 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
Last Station Unknown 1.3.5. The Easter Face
** Angel Dust Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
* Dassieburger Sport 10 1.4.2. The Beach
* Gert's Nineteen Sport 8 1.4.2. The Beach
* Mrs Doubtfire Sport 8 1.4.2. The Beach
* Blunt Blade Sport 6 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Dance of the Satin Spider Sport 6 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Abattoir Sport 5 1.5.1. The Pasture
* Cowabunga Sport 6 1.5.1. The Pasture
* Imodium Sport 6 1.5.1. The Pasture
* Stargrazer Sport 6 1.5.1. The Pasture
* Helter Skelter Sport 12 1.5.2. The Coven
* See What Happens Sport 6 1.5.2. The Coven
** Dwarf Tossing Sport 7 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Of Herbs and Stewed Rabbit Trad 1.5.5. The Other Side
*** Endless Summer Sport 14 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
*** Transmutation Trad 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** It's No Bulldog Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Little Man's Complex Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Minnie Mouse Menopause Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Sloth on the Loose Trad 1.6.6. The Wild SIde
* RETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA Trad 1.6.7. ZASM Tunnel Entrance - (East)
23 * Almost Ushie Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Not-Da-Mamma Sport 14 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* One Love Sport 5 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sticky Toffe Pudding Sport 17 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Him Speak With Forked Tongue Trad 1.1.5. The Little Red Wall
* Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Blood on the Rocks Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Ceasarian Sport 11 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Dexter's Lab Sport 12 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Face in the Trough Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Please Don't Touch Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The One That Got Away Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Two Cam Sam Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Cactus Palace Sport 10 1.1.8. Reunion Wall
* Le Sketch Sport 11 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Miss Mckinley Sport 9 1.1.9. The Superbowl
*** Into the Night We Slide Trad 1.1.11. The Theatre
** Night of the Toast Trad 1.1.11. The Theatre
* Waiting for Gossip Trad 1.1.12. The Right Wings
** Collapse of Reason Sport 10 1.1.13. The Stone Philosopher Area
* Just Stick It Sport 5 1.2.1. The Gym
* Nothing in Moderation Sport 6 1.2.1. The Gym
* Super Ego Sport 9 1.2.2. He-Man Area
** Cut Me Some Slack Sport 9 1.2.4. The Acid House
** Flambeau Sport 12 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* First Dimension Sport 6 1.3.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Zoo Station Sport 8 1.3.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Brain Dead Sport 6 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
Passion Play Unknown 1.3.5. The Easter Face
Psychedelic Sandwich Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
* Africa Trip Sport 9 1.4.2. The Beach
* Comedy Waltz Sport 8 1.4.2. The Beach
* Friday Sport 6 1.4.2. The Beach
* Spring Tide Sport 9 1.4.2. The Beach
** Ripcurl Sport 9 1.4.3. The Boulevard
* Operasie Bullie Bief Sport 8 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Thank Heaven for Little Girls Sport 5 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Howling in Hades Sport 13 1.5.2. The Coven
Mad Cow Sport 9 1.5.2. The Coven
* Prince of Darkness Sport 9 1.5.2. The Coven
* Bolder Problem Sport 5 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** Rip Direct Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
** Something Esoteric Sport 9 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
Urisk the Rustic Brownie Sport 11 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
* Electric Avenue - Pitch 2 Sport 9 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Good Times Sport 17 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Superfly Sport 17 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Wish You Were Here Sport 13 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Death By Banda Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
** The Colour Purple Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Topless Skateboard Nun Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
** Out of Germany Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
* CEASARS BOWL Trad 1.6.10. Waterval Onder - Luilekker Crags
22 ** Ice Cream Sundae Sport 65m, 16 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Papsak Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
24 ** Pretenders Sport 8 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sour Grapes Sport 13 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Alice in Grannyland Unknown 35m, 16 1.1.3. The God No Wall
*** Big Bad Wolf Sport 40m, 16 1.1.3. The God No Wall
*** Freak On Sport 12 1.1.3. The God No Wall
** Rock-Chuka-Chick Sport 17 1.1.3. The God No Wall
* Be Quick Or Be Dead Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Hey Pappa Sport 5 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** La Croisiere S'amuse Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Spicy Haberero Salsa Sport 5 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Women Ain't Nothing But Trouble Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** I Dexe Sport 10 1.1.8. Reunion Wall
** Club Tropicana Coconuts Sport 9 1.1.9. The Superbowl
*** Rude Bushmen Sport 15 1.1.9. The Superbowl
Herman's Route Sport 5 1.1.10. The Left Wings
** Endless October Sport 9 1.1.11. The Theatre
* Lithium Sport 5 1.2.1. The Gym
* Dance with the Wombats Sport 11 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Smelt Sport 10 1.2.3. The Foundry
** Zoozania Sport 12 1.2.3. The Foundry
** Nine Inch Nails Sport 9 1.2.4. The Acid House
** Jigaboo Sport 8 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Achtung Baby Sport 8 1.3.3. The Gaper Buttress
** Atomic Aardvark Sport 16 1.3.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Pocket Rocket Sport 8 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
* Crown of Thorns Unknown 1.3.5. The Easter Face
Gung Ho Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
** Rainbow Children Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
* Wild Hearted Sun Unknown 1.3.6. The Monsoon Wall
** Castaway Sport 9 1.4.2. The Beach
** Wizards Sport 6 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Queen of the Night Sport 9 1.5.2. The Coven
** Screaming Demons Sport 10 1.5.2. The Coven
** Frozen Flesh Sport 8 1.5.4. Flying is Fun
* Before Inner Child Trad 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** Trippin' on Life Sport 15 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
** Unterwegs Nach Haus Sport 13 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Palm It Off Sport 8 1.6.5. Toon Town
* Roger Strikes Back Sport 9 1.6.5. Toon Town
Little Bitch Trad 1.6.8. The Junkyard
23 ** Dreamers Sport 11 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
25 ** Ledgends Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Sweet Plum Sport 14 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Changing Gears Sport 12 1.1.3. The God No Wall
** Grannie's Cottage Sport 8 1.1.5. The Little Red Wall
** Little Red Riding Hood Sport 9 1.1.5. The Little Red Wall
** The Loan Arranger Trad 1.1.5. The Little Red Wall
** Are You Chicken Enough Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Champange on Ice Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Fat Annie Sport 6 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Loch Ness Sport 7 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Task Saturated Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Witless Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* Normal Hard Daddy Sport 10 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Soul Mandate Sport 11 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Balrog Sport 9 1.1.10. The Left Wings
** Hounds Mousse Sport 11 1.1.10. The Left Wings
** Sweet Cousin Cocaine Sport 10 1.1.11. The Theatre
* Booger Being Sport 5 1.2.1. The Gym
* Keep the Faith Sport 9 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Acid on the Brain Sport 11 1.2.4. The Acid House
* Like Nailing Jelly to the Ceiling Sport 10 1.2.4. The Acid House
** Mister Excellent Sport 9 1.2.4. The Acid House
** New Age Sport 8 1.2.5. The Far Side
* I Guest Not Sport 10 1.3.1. The School
* Blockbuster Sport 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
** Jambo Sport 13 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
* Deck Chair Sport 7 1.3.4. The Gaper Face
* Clockwork Monkey Sport 8 1.4.2. The Beach
** Old Spice Sport 9 1.4.2. The Beach
* Don't Do Dishes Or Rap With Pigs Trad 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Fairy Fingers Sport 5 1.4.4. Never Never Land
* Eat Your Heart Out Sport 11 1.5.2. The Coven
** Yuduvudu Sport 8 1.5.5. The Other Side
** A Mixture of Frailties Sport 10 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
* Jitterbug Perfume Trad 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** Sorcery Trad 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** Follow The light Trad 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Fudge Beats Burfee Sport 10 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Train Massacre Sport 8 1.6.4. The East End
* African Odyssey Sport 13 1.6.5. Toon Town
** Mannenburg Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
** The Lightness of Being Sport 5 1.6.5. Toon Town
26 ** Shrine of the Sea Monkeys Sport 9 1.4.2. The Beach
* Goose on a Loose Sport 9 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Heroes Sport 9 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
The Butterfly Pitch One Sport 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Dungeons and Dragons Sport 13 1.1.3. The God No Wall
* Drop Kicked Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Dutch Popcorn Sport 12 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
* The Flying Scotsman Sport 5 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Wicked Sport 10 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*** Doug in the Yellow House Sport 13 1.1.9. The Superbowl
*** Karfoefeling Sport 13 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Out of a Limb Sport 10 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* The Doomsday Device Sport 13 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Herman the German Sport 10 1.1.10. The Left Wings
Transmogrifier Sport 9 1.1.10. The Left Wings
*** Kindered Spirits Sport 9 1.1.11. The Theatre
* The Surge Sport 10 1.2.3. The Foundry
* The Playpen Sport 10 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
** World's Apart Sport 9 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
Why Me? Sport 4 1.4.4. Never Never Land
*** Merci My Brother Sport 9 1.5.2. The Coven
** Screaming Blue Messiah Trad 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
*** You Too Brutus Sport 12 1.6.1. The A.C.R.A Wall
** As the World Disappears Sport 13 1.6.3. The Last Crag of the Century
* Day of Decimation Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
Poes in Boots Trad 1.6.5. Toon Town
25 *** African Rain Sport 14 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Slave Species Sport 6 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Wild Fire Sport 10 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Coach Sport 12 1.1.9. The Superbowl
27 ** Kannie-Ballistic Sport 12 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
** Sweet Child of Mine Sport 14 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Chocolate Éclair Sport 4 1.1.3. The God No Wall
*** Hell Yea Sport 17 1.1.3. The God No Wall
** Bamboozled Sport 9 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Morse Code Trad 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Giants Sport 12 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Hallucigenic Toreador Sport 13 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Kimchi Sport 11 1.1.9. The Superbowl
*** Lotter's Desire Sport 11 1.1.9. The Superbowl
* Paradise By the C Sport 10 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Tripolactic Fairytales Sport 10 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Tugela Blue Sport 12 1.1.9. The Superbowl
** Chunky Monkey Sport 9 1.1.10. The Left Wings
** Bikini Red Sport 9 1.1.11. The Theatre
* Damn the Torpedoes Trad 1.1.12. The Right Wings
* Nuns on the Run Sport 6 1.2.1. The Gym
** Shadow Man Sport 8 1.2.2. He-Man Area
* The Cat in the Hat Trad 1.2.2. He-Man Area
** Mercury Rev Sport 10 1.2.3. The Foundry
* Funky Acid Trip Sport 9 1.2.4. The Acid House
** Mostly Harmless Unknown 8 1.3.2. The Restaurant Crag
** The Gift Sport 9 1.3.3. The Gaper Buttress
* Dom Pedro Trad 1.5.2. The Coven
* Mixer Mincer Shredder Liquidizer Sport 8 1.5.5. The Other Side
28 *** Big Butterfly Sport 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Blood Diamond Sport 5 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** Condor Sport 11 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
*** The Bovenator Sport 11 1.1.2. Baboon Buttress
* Burning Spear Sport 17 1.1.3. The God No Wall
** Freak Show Sport 12 1.1.3. The God No Wall
** Ants in Your Pants Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
** Panty-Slapped Sport 8 1.1.6. Hallucinogenic Wall
*