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Can Can Alley

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Description

This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area.

Access issues inherited from Truitjieskraal

You need a permit to climb at Truitjies Kraal, permits are obtainable from the Kromrivier office. Wildcard cardholders can get the permits for free.

Approach

The central parking follows a well-marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeps some smaller crags on your left. Follow the cairns to the right, up and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall.

History

History timeline chart

Ross Suter and Malcolm Gowans were the first to climb in this area in 1998. In 2002 Patrick McCann and Mike Scott added several quality trad routes. Sport climbing only began when Malcolm Gowans and Cormac Tooze then put up the first sport routes in 2011. Since then the number of Sport routes has grown substantially.

Routes

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Grade Route

This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area.

From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. Follow the cairns right, up, and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall.

Badly bolted!

FA: J. Gordon, Dec 2016

Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress. Lower from Fynhoud chains.

FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2002

FA: amrei von hase & Malcolm Gowans, Jan 2015

FA: Malcolm Gowans, Jan 2015

Route on second buttress in alley. Climbs obvious lay back at 1/3rd height, then steep jugs to top.

FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2002

Set: J. Gordon

FA: J. Gordon, Dec 2016

Climb arête on left corner of third buttress to lower off chains

FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2004

Set: Cormac Tooze, 2011

FA: Cormac Tooze, 2011

Maint: Malcolm Gowans, 2018

FA: J. Terreblanche & Malcolm Gowans, 2018

The vague arête just right of Skeletium Skank. Tricky start followed by lovely, but slightly runout climbing.

FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2018

FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2013

Route on fourth buttress. Climbs obvious diagonal open book (near arch).

FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2004

Start about 5m right of CanCan Diagonal, at the top of a pile of boulders. Climb just to the left of a fragile series of side pulls. Step right to a dark brown grove and follow that to a slightly steep section with good holds. Then continue straight to the top of the crag.

FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017

Set: Malcolm Gowans

FA: M. Stilwell

Start about 5m right of Hot Tango. Climb up to a brown recess and then straight up the wall.

FA: Richard Halsey & F. Walters, Dec 2017

FA: Tony Lourens

Set: Tony Lourens

FA: Tony Lourens

FA: Tony Lourens

Climb to lower offs at top. Well protected. Small cam protects exit move to lower offs.

FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2010

FA: Mike Scott, Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2010

Set: Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans

FA: Javier Gutierrez, 7 Sep 2014

Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge. Climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A large nut (BD size 13) is useful for the vertical crack. (now bolted as an average sport route - better as a trad climb)

FA: Adele McCann & Paddy McCann, 2014

FA: Paddy McCann, Dec 2014

FA: Josie McCann & Paddy McCann, Dec 2014

Start about 2m right of Moulin Rouge and climb a direct line till the small ledge at about 2/3rd height, then head diagonally right up the final 5m.

FA: Richard Halsey & T. Dunnett, Dec 2017

Set: Paddy McCann

FA: Mike Scott, Jan 2015

FA: Paddy McCann, Apr 2015

Climbs a direct line up the wall about 2.5m right of Burlesque. Take care with gear at the start.

FA: Richard Halsey, Dec 2017

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tony Lourens

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9780796123541

A definitive guidebook covering all the sport climbing found throughout the whole of the Cederberg mountain range, describing 436 sport routes across a wide range of grades from F4b to F9a.

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Wed 19 Apr
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