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Wildfire

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 33

Seasonality

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Description

These slabs are located on the lower tier about 25m down left/east from the 'Als Bells Area' (which is 30m down from 'The Creche' – see more detailed notes in the 'Als Bells Area' & 'The Creche'). On the 1st slab you pass (only 10m down from 'Als Bells Area' corner) you will see 'Hot Spot' tagged. Follow cairns right under this slab (a bit exposed) and down east 20m to the central slab. 'Hellfire' is tagged in the middle.

Access issues inherited from Tranquilitas

Climbing Permits Wonderland

The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, Mahem and Tranquilitas. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.

Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300

Annual permits R1600. Annual permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

Routes

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Grade Route

Steep start 2m left of 'Bush Fire'.

FA: Clive Curson, Apr 2017

Take your thinking cap - very technical and balancey. Starts up a crease 2m right of 'Smoke At Dawn' at 'Bush Fire'. Step up left after 4th bolt toward the arête to finish at 'Smoke At Dawn' anchors.

FA: Clive Curson & Jette Bollerup, Aug 2017

Tagged. Start at the crease. At 4th bolt, go straight up face into a tiny corner and the right hand anchors.

FA: Clive Curson & Kate Ness, Jul 2017

Starts up 'Bush Fire' at the tiny fig tree, break right across the corner at 4th bolt to join 'Bonfire'. Climb past the 1st anchors to the top.

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

Nice looking line but not that good. 2m right of 'Bush Fire' is a left facing corner. Up this keeping right of the bolts to avoid unnecessary difficulty. Climb to the overlap, passing the low anchors, left to the arête and up to anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

3m right of 'Bush Fire', tagged FLAMES. Steep start on big holds leads to a slab, then at the 4th bolt head a bit left up 'Bonfire' (past the lower anchors – 11/12 to here) to its anchors.

FA: Clive Curson & Kate Ness, 2017

Tagged FLAMES. Up 'Flames At Sunrise' to the 4th bolt, then straight up through the left notch in the overhang. A fierce reach will find holds near the 1st anchors. Or continue up right 2 bolts to higher anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

Follow 'Flames Direct' through the notch. Just above the roof, step right then climb up to high anchors on the right.

FA: Jette Bollerup & Clive Curson, 2017

2m right of FLAMES climb a short crack. Continue straight up to the right notch in the roof. Head up right to the 'Flames In The Sunset' finish. Variations are possible (eg left notch, 'Flames Direct', 'Bonfire')

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

6m right of FLAMES is another short crack at ground level above which is a very thin reachy slab: there is a temptation to use the cracks on either side. Go straight up to a break just left of the main slab past a large precarious-looking block to finish at 'Flames In The Sunset' anchors up and right. Harder after the worst block was removed.

FA: Clive Curson & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2017

1.5m right of the short crack of 'Daniel' (and 1m left of a big tree) climb the slab to the overlap, passing another short crack. Some very thin moves past 2 close bolts gain the upper slab, which eases off at another crack.

Tagged. Leading his people up the easiest way through this part of the cliff. Just right of the (lower) tree, scramble up to the 1st bolt. Head left on narrow ledges clipping bolts marked black on 4-5 routes. Go up and left past 1st anchors and left past the overhang to the 'Bonfire' anchors. Top rope to clean.

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

A great 1st lead into an exposed position. Follow 'Moses' to the 1st set of anchors below the last roof. Lower off before the Red Sea closes over you!

FA: Kate Ness & Clive Curson, Jul 2017

Or is it Dendrophile?! Easy start just right of the lower tree at 'Moses'. Straight up to the overlap, and clip a bolt high up left. Use the 2nd (left-leaning) tree to gain the slab. Follow cracks to the top.

FA: Clive Curson, Jul 2017

The narrowing chimney right of the angled tree.

FA: Clive Curson, Jul 2017

Close-spaced bolts to encourage all those budding trad climbers. The major corner/chimney 2 - 3m right of 'Steeple'.

FA: Clive Curson, Jul 2017

On the left of a small cave 4m right of 'Chimney Stack' corner, move through the bulge on sharp holds past 3 closely spaced bolts. Then what?!

Set: Clive Curson, 2017

At the cave, pull the hanging arête on the right into the thin crack which widens to hand size.

FA: Clive Curson, 2017

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2017

The lefthand route with a shallow open book in the upper section. Finish up a short crack.

FA: Jette Bollerup & Clive Curson, 2017

Tagged. The middle route with the crux just before the anchors. Perhaps 17 if you climb at the bolt above the roof; most go 1m left.

FA: Jette Bollerup & Clive Curson, 2017

The arête on the right, starting 1m right of 'Hellfire'. Step right to crux after the last bolt.

FA: Jette Bollerup & Clive Curson, Apr 2017

Start in the short corner 4m right of 'Hellfire'. Climb the slab right of the arête, finishing up the same move as 'Inferno'.

FA: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

Start off the track up to 'Als Bells', about 10m up right from 'Hellfire', 12m left of 'Hot Spot'. Climb up & left to gain the arête with some difficulty. Up this past the overlap to the anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

Start 5m right of 'Angular', off a small block deep in the chimney. Diagonally left out of the cleft and up to the anchors. The direct start (2 separate bolts) submits to some grunty technique at about 15 [**].

FA: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

Start at a fig about 3m right of 'Burnout'. Diagonally right up to the easier ground. Up and left to the notched overhang and anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

Tagged. Sustained - this may be the best slab route under 22 at Boven. At a pocketed crack in the smooth slab, up to the overlap and pull through off a block.

FA: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

This climb is 2-3m left of 'Als Bells' and perhaps 10m downhill on a west-facing slab. 2-3m right of 'Hotspot' there is a weakness up to the high 1st bolt; climb thinly to the anchors above the overlap.

Set: Clive Curson, Aug 2017

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