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Description

One of the best crags, especially for 24 to 30. Hosts two of Boven‟s most famous routes, Snapdragon and 'Lotter's Desire'.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approach

A. As for Hallucinogen Crag but keep walking another 300 metres until the path curves leftwards and by a cairn (pile of stones) on the right from which a small path leads down toward to cliff top. You will arrive at the top of a buttress, from which you get a great view of Lotter‟s Desire, Snapdragon and the others! The path leads down on the left into the trees and along the base of the crags. Pass the Reunion Wall and after a few minutes you will arrive at a clearing at the base of Snapdragon.

B. The right hand side of the crag can also be accessed from the gulley beyond right side of the crag. Approach as above but walk another 300 metres along the main cliff-top path, shortly after a long bend in the trail, cut down across the grass to the cliff edge; you can see a small square Mountain Club sign at the top of the gulley. Descend the gulley then keep right past some wet sections and you soon arrive at the climbs around Teen Spirit.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Up the tricky steep face then some easier climbing before a testing finish. The extra bolts at the penultimate bolt are not the chains, just a mistake by the bolter. Solid 7b+.

FA: Dan Honeymann, 2007

Starts on tree roots 20 m left of Snapdragon. Tenuous laybacks leads to great climbing through the roofs to the chains. Really good and not a giveaway!

FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel, 2005

Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Start up the roots about 10 m left of Snapdragon. Some awkward fingery cruxes keep your brain busy.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2011

The blankness just left of Snapdragon. A couple of extremely poor holds on the face lead to easier ground. Might be 33..?

FA: Paul Brouard, 2000

SA‟s most famous sport climb. It offers superb endurance climbing and requires plenty of finesse. It is on every visitors ticklist and is starting to become very well used. Please brush the holds when you are done.

FA: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop, 1992

Starts 6m right of Snapdragon and tackles the lovely looking smooth open corner using some rather small holds. Hard for the short.

FA: Richard Lord, 1994

Through the roof above the dead tree. Speak to Dewald Kloppers

Starts about 30 metres right of Snapdragon up some loose looking (but solid) rock. A hard crux (knocking on 7c) unless you can jamit...

FA: Mike Cartwright, 1993

Awesome. Starts on Rude Bushmen or Welcome to Ovamboland, then go left and up to pass some overlaps, finishing ¾ height chains. A popular first 26.

FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner, 2004

The line that should have been here first! Start up Welcome to Ov‟land for 2-3 bolts then move left onto Kerfoefeling; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto Ov‟land at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag!

FA: Wesley Black, 2010

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2010

This route starts 3m left of Lotters Desire starting with a little overlap then heads rightwards into a niche, then up and left through a small roof. Low in grade, probably 6c+.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

Climb the obvious corner right of Rude Bushmen.

FA: Dan Honeyman, 2007

The amazing orange wall. Five stars for the beauty of the line, and the climbing is pretty good too. Tricky start (easier on the left) then up. Probably 7b+ but 7c sounds better. Was opened at 27+.

FA: Richard Lord, 1993

A brilliant climb, so unique! Requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork, so much fun. Easy 8a..

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2005

This route blasts through the roofs on jugs, heading slightly right. Pre clipping the 3rd bolt and unclipping bolts 1 and 2 avoids rope drag.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

Head up the left hand limb of the big white fig tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above…

FA: Mark Millar, 2006

Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above

FA: Mark Millar, 2004

30 m right of Lotters Desire. Starts on bouldery moves just left of a bushy tree.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 1998

Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right.

FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune, 2012

Doesn‟t look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of Tripolactic.

FA: Paul Brouard, 2001

Up the technical face then right-facing corner above. Was 27 then 26, now 27....

FA: Will Watkins, 1998

Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.

FA: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts, 1996

Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine, 1996

Takes the steep line just to the right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: Mark Seuring, 1999

Climbs the next line, a few metres right of the tree growing up the cliff.

FA: C Nicole, 1997

Newish route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2006

About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1992

Up the middle of the wall, about 8 meters left of Glen.

FA: Sybren van der Leij, 1999

The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. Some smooth rock and reach moves low down!

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince, 2003

Overbolted but fun. A great combination, often referred to as „Le Combo‟ (22); start up Glen then move left onto Le Sketch on the midway ledge. Place a long draw before moving onto Le Sketch.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

Just left of Precision Feather. Heavily overbolted, can skip almost every other bolt

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1998

A super climb! One of the better 21‟s in Boven. The right most climb on this section of wall. Up then across a bushy face and more climbing above.

FA: Voytek Modrzewski, 1998

The first line around the corner, right of Precision Feather. Hard and scary if you can‟t reach the layback!

FA: Barry Crouse

A super climb, trending up and left up the slabby face

FA: Darryl Margetts, Mark Philipps & Andrew Lynch, 1996

The climb starts in the obvious crack. Climb this crack until it is possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, Mark Phillips, Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney, 1999

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