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For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


A. From the Superbowl, walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gulley that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.

B. Approach as for the right-hand end of the Superbowl, down the gulley, then keep left and after 50 m or so the climbs are reached.



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Grade Route

Climbs the easy break left of HTG up to a tree.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.

FA: Adam, 1994

Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors.

FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992

Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs. Permission has been given for this route to be retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy!

FA: FA: Mark Seuring, 1998

Through the groove 8m right of Chunky Monkey.

FA: Axel Wachter, 2000

This route takes the next arete right of Chunky Monkey. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.

FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000

Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted.

FA: G Erens & R Dodding, 1992

About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

The shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG‟s description.

FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991

The line left of Transmogrifier

FA: Tessa Little, 2001

Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb

FA: Mark Seuring, 2001

Trad route between Transmogrifier & Endless October. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear.

FA: tewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992


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