The Left Wings Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Branden Marc dM Cormac Tooze Lilja Lakic Klinger Paddy McCann Wojjy Constantine Dritsas Heidixe Rochelle-Mari Smith

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1. The Left Wings 20 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. The Left Wings 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -25.664649, 30.363872

description

For some peace and quiet and some quality climbing head here. Some of the routes that were opened on trad could be retro-bolted to make this a more popular crag..just ask the first ascentionist first! There are some routes that will remain trad.

access issues

Climbing Permits Wonderland The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, 'The Mayhem Crags' and 'Tranquilitas'. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs: Day Permits R 60 Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30 Weekend Permits R100 Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50 Month permits R 600 Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300 Annual R1600 Annual for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1 200 By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

inherited from Wonderland Area

approach

A. From 'The Superbowl', walk pass all the climbs then past some wet ground, up a bit, past a gully that leads to the top of the cliffline (the other approach) then the path leads down again, after 50m or so the climbs are reached.

B. Approach as for the right-hand end of 'The Superbowl', down the gully, then keep left and after 50m or so the climbs are reached.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Why Climbs the easy break left of 'Herman the German' up to a tree. FA: Clive Curson, 1993	20	Trad
2	★ Herman the German Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall. FA: Adam, 1994	26	Sport 10
3	★★ Skelmpoes Climb the arête but mostly stay on the pretty face right of 'Herman the German'. Avoid fondling the jugs of the neighbour around the corner and enjoy the secret crack! Set: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2019 FA: Tony dos Ramos, 2019	22	Sport 8
4	Herman's Route Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors. FA: Herman du Plessis, 1992	24	Mixed trad 5
5	★★ Green Machine Start up the crack near the arête left of 'True Blue'. A puzzling crux leads to an easier slab. Set: Clive Curson, 2018 FA: Thulani Mazibuko, 2018	18	Sport
6	★ True Blue Takes the red corner left of 'Wysiwyg', about 25-30m right of the descent gully. Route has been retro-bolted - see "Wysiwyg" description. FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992 Set: 2018	16	Mixed trad 12
7	★★ Red Under the Bed The alpine arête between 'True Blue' and 'Wysiwyg', starting just left of and below 'Mellow Yellow' - smaller U-bolts. Go diagonally left towards the arête then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here (8 bolts) or continue up to the 'Mellow Yellow' anchors Set: Clive Curson, 2018 FA: 2018	9	Sport 12
8	★★ Mellow Yellow The face just left of the 'Wysiwyg' corner, via a sickle feature about 5m up. Set: Clive Curson, 2018 FA: Clive Curson, 2018	10	Sport 10
9	★ Wysiwyg Climbs the obvious corner to the left of the large stacked roofs, 5m right of 'True Blue'. Watch the blocks near the top. FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992 Set: Clive Curson, 2018	12	Mixed trad 11
10	★★ Chacma Moves rightwards out of the Wysiwyg corner onto the beautiful face at half height. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018	23	Sport 13
11	★★ Chunky Monkey The route climbs a really obvious square arête then rails out rightwards wildy! FA: Mark Seuring, 1998	27	Sport 9
12	★★ Hounds Mousse Through the groove 8m right of 'Chunky Monkey'. FA: Axel Wachter, 2000	25	Sport 11
13	★ New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch This route takes the next arête right of 'Chunky Monkey'. The lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning. FA: Mark “Pirate” van Wyk, 2000	18	Sport 10
14	★★★ Lo and Behold Starts between two trees. Climb 5m right of 'New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch', at a fig tree. Looks way too steep and blank for this grade, but be assured that excellent holds appear - especially just after the crux, where there seems to be a bit of a run-out. When the going gets tough, just keep cranking! Anchors are 2 large glue ins without chains, large enough to fit easily rope and biners. FA: Clive Curson & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018	19	Sport 12
15	★ Home Alone Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted. FA: Gordon Erens & Russ Dodding, 1992	19	Trad
16	★★★ Puppet on a String About 50-60m along right from the descent gulley is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991	19	Trad
17	★★ Through The Looking Glass The shallow corner. Route has been retro-bolted - see 'Wysiwyg' description. FA: Russ Dodding & Gordon Erens, 1991 Set: Clive Curson, 2018	19	Mixed trad 11
18	★ Balrog The line left of 'Transmogrifier'. FA: Tessa Little, 2001	25	Sport 9
19	★★ Transmogrifier Start on the block below the obvious V-groove. Name written at base of the climb FA: Mark Seuring, 2001	26	Sport 9
20	★ Uiters Tors Trad route between 'Transmogrifier' & 'Endless October'. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up & left. Poor gear. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop, Clive Curson & Chris Lomax, 1992	21 PROT:R	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
9	★★	Red Under the Bed	Sport 12
10	★★	Mellow Yellow	Sport 10
12	★	Wysiwyg	Mixed trad 11
16	★	True Blue	Mixed trad 12
18	★★	Green Machine	Sport
	★	New York Chocolate Fudge Crunch	Sport 10
19	★	Home Alone	Trad
	★★★	Lo and Behold	Sport 12
	★★★	Puppet on a String	Trad
	★★	Through The Looking Glass	Mixed trad 11
20	★	Why	Trad
21 R	★	Uiters Tors	Trad
22	★★	Skelmpoes	Sport 8
23	★★	Chacma	Sport 13
24		Herman's Route	Mixed trad 5
25	★	Balrog	Sport 9
	★★	Hounds Mousse	Sport 11
26	★	Herman the German	Sport 10
	★★	Transmogrifier	Sport 9
27	★★	Chunky Monkey	Sport 9