The Gaper Buttress


The obvious buttress down and right past the swimming pools at Elandskrans. Only a few routes but hosts one of the best 24‟s and 27 in Boven. When the campsite is busy, the top of this crag can be popular with gapers (tourists), hence the name.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


As for the Restaurant except take the trail going steeply down just to the right before walking onto the top of the buttress.



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Grade Route

A hallowed classic. Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base. Can skip some of the bolts, especially at the start to reduce drag.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

WOW! A graceful sweep of technicality, possibly best 27 in Boven. Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Some extra bolts made it less sporty some years back.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

Starts from a stance 8 metres up. Rap down to the first bolt. One of the harder excrutiatingly technical climbs around. Was opened at 29.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. This can be accessed either by rapping or scrambling up from the right.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1992

2m right of ACHTUNG BABY.

FA: Ian Manson & Mike Cartwright, 1992

About 8m right of the ZOO STATION Pillar. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Belay at LAN's first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right. Use LAN's lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993


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