When the climbers first arrived at the Coven, the candles and grafitti made them wonder what sort of ceremonies were conducted here. Probably just a Zionist clan… anyway, this crag hosts a few amazing technical climbs. This crag used to be one of the busiest around but these days it‟s quiet, break the trend and go tick the classics; Lucifer Goes to the Gunks, Screaming Demons and Shout at the Devil and plenty of others.
For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:
Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA
Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.
ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.
http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.
A. Drive up the hill from Roc and Rope. 300 metres past the hospital there is a gravel road on the left leading down the ACRA Retreat Bed and Breakfast. Park INSIDE the ACRA retreat – just ring the bell and the owners will welcome you. Be sure to have a beer on the deck afterwards, its stunning.. From the house. walk down the hill a little then diagonally down left along the cliff top. Cross over a small stream before finding an obvious gulley. Scramble down here and follow a trail keeping left and along the base of the crag.
B. Approach as for Flying is Fun. Then walk down a trail at the base of the route Midnight Mission, turn left and over a huge flat rock. Pass through the stream and up the other side.
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