When the climbers first arrived at the Coven, the candles and grafitti made them wonder what sort of ceremonies were conducted here. Probably just a Zionist clan… anyway, this crag hosts a few amazing technical climbs. This crag used to be one of the busiest around but these days it‟s quiet, break the trend and go tick the classics; Lucifer Goes to the Gunks, Screaming Demons and Shout at the Devil and plenty of others.

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information. A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


A. Drive up the hill from Roc and Rope. 300 metres past the hospital there is a gravel road on the left leading down the ACRA Retreat Bed and Breakfast. Park INSIDE the ACRA retreat – just ring the bell and the owners will welcome you. Be sure to have a beer on the deck afterwards, its stunning.. From the house. walk down the hill a little then diagonally down left along the cliff top. Cross over a small stream before finding an obvious gulley. Scramble down here and follow a trail keeping left and along the base of the crag.

B. Approach as for Flying is Fun. Then walk down a trail at the base of the route Midnight Mission, turn left and over a huge flat rock. Pass through the stream and up the other side.



Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

This climb is on the trail, 30 metres before the main crag is reached. Climbs the buttress just before a step leading up to the gulley.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1996

The same as POD, but deviate neither to right nor left.

FA: Alison Cowley, 1995

On the smooth brown wall at the left of the crag. At Bolt#2 up a seam on the right till this becomes too hard. Back to the middle (bolt#3 hard to clip) then up using the crack on the left. Maybe a bit easier if you're tall.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

10m left of the lunch spot. Pull the roof on wild holds!

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

A route with hangers just right of Lucifer and also sustained.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2000

Takes the thin crackline a few meters left of the main cave, past some well jammed blocks through the overlap.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

5 bolts as for 666. Step right and break through the overlap near the right end (3-4m left of the BLACK MAGIC seam). Reachy.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

Clip 5 bolts up 666, traverse right to a beautiful seam through the headwall directly above the cave. Take 2-3 super long draws. It is quite possible to do the route on a 50m rope. Can be done as a 2 pitch mission.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

This climb starts from a u-bolt and hanger placed just right of the start of the last pitch of black magic. One can first do BM to warm up on or climb in from the TTGTH traverse from the right.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2003

Clip first five bolts of THE PIT and move left, blast through the roof to the right of the BLACK MAGIC seam and up the open book corner. Take a couple of long slings.

FA: Jens Richter, 2000

he very steep bulge has a bolt in it and anchors and is open for anyone to try..if you feel inspired.

A retro-bolted trad adventure. a) 17 (6D,A) Climb the PIT jamcrack just right of the cave to a stance. b) 20 (7D,A) Rail leftwards past the peapod to a stance. c) 21 (6D,A) Climb the BLACK MAGIC seam to the summit. Or just do it as one pitch with long slings and a 50m rope.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

The first pitch of TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN. Climb the crack to lower-offs at a ledge. Don't blow the 3rd clip.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

The open book. A bolted trad-like classic.

FA: Clive & Barbara Curson, 1994

The blunt arete just right of BBGMG.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 1994

Phenomenal climbing on the steep face 6m right of the BBGMG corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994

The thin looking face just left of the corner.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994

The left-facing corner and roof crack. More trad stuff.

FA: Clive Curson & Cathy O'Dowd, 1994

The right hand variation after the roof. Fingery.

FA: Clive Curson, 1994

Very height dependent. One move, one star!

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1996

Starts 5m right of the HOWLING IN HADES corner. Good warm up route.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Andrew Lynch, 1994

Starts just right of DEVIL'S CONCUBINE up a vague corner. Pull the overlap and continue up the slab above to chains.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 1994

This climbs the root-infested gulley 10m to the right of DD. Shares chains with DEVIL'S DISCIPLE. Expect to get your ropes damp in the wet season.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Greg Devine, 1995

Starts up God of Small things then moves left then up on very small holds. Opened at 30! Alternative start bolted by A. Pedley, won‟t change the grade and nicer, being independent and direct. Opened at 30..! Needs a 2nd ascent.

FA: Jens Richter, 2003

Takes the line up the middle of the face on small holds. Superbly technical.

FA: Jens Richter, 2003

A fantastic line. Takes the right hand edge of the eye-catching face.

FA: Gunther Migeotte, 1994


First time here? is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question


Check out what is happening in The Coven.