Baboon Buttress

  • Grades: SA
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 150
  • Aka: Backstage

Access issues inherited from Waterval Boven

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.


APPROACH As for Tranquilitas Crag, then.

A. from the parking at the farmhouse, cross over the road through the Tranquiltas Adventure Farm entrance, after a few metres take the path on the left towards the cliffline. After 100 metres the path forks. Take the smaller right hand fork down to the cliff top. Scramble down the obvious blocky descent gulley (past some short climbs). At the base of the gulley, head left for 10 metres and you will see the obvious crack of Grizzly bear.

B. from the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm camping, take the track heading northwestwards from the corner of the field, which initially follows a couple of electricity poles. After approx 200 metres you will reach a fork, keep left 27 and after 50 m the path leads down to a waterfall (listen and you will hear it). Cross the wooden foot bridge and follow the path through the forest for a couple hundred metres. After about 200 metres the path arrives at the obvious layback crack of Grizzly Behr.



Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

A climb by itself on the walk in. There is a ‘death block’ halfway up which we tried to lever off but did not succeed. Be careful or avoid it.

FA: Mike Behr & Stephan Isabeck, 2011

Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arete left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner

Up middle of face left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner.

Climbs the corner crack situated 20 metres to the left of the descent gulley (when facing the bottom of the gulley).

FA: Darryl Margetts, Aug 2009

Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish.

FA: Evan Margetts, Jul 2011

Climbs the chimney just right of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. A grovel.

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

FA: Brian Weaver, Apr 2011

Starts off the boulder. Climb up and pre-clip the 2nd draw. Dead-point your way to the chains.

FA: Andrew Pedley, Jan 2011

The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top.

FA: David Wade & Evan Margetts., Apr 2012

As descending the gulley, this easy climb is on the left and angles up leftwards on grey slab.

FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies, 2008

Slab on arête in descent gulley.

FA: C Vandereydt & M Demilano, 2006

Halfway down the descent gulley walk left onto a big ledge. Climbs the slanting feature.

FA: Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt, 2007

Climb the next slanting feature.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2002

Climb the face just right of the cave. Was opened at 22.

FA: Chris Vandereydt, 2006

Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. Was opened at 22.

FA: Sarel Petrus, 2007

Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge.

FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski, 2006

Can you hold the smallest holds in Boven? Starts up the tree right of Grizzly Bear. Clip 1st bolt then use the tree to gain the good rail up and right. Move left then up to a good hold to clip the second bolt…..now brace your fingers and hang on, just barely.

From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof.

FA: Marianne Pretorius, 2004

From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2007

Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2008

Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of Goose On The Loose.

FA: Mike Mason, 2002

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

FA: Michael Cartwright, 2007

Climb first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at higher anchors for (harder) direct finish.

FA: Mark Seuring, 2006

If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the obvious corner chimney.

FA: Alard Hüfner, 2000

Start at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. The bolts leading straight up on the headwall is an open project. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2006

Short face climb below the big roof, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski & Gustav Janse van Rensurg, 2006

Excellent long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrement then up left onto the technical face.

FA: Alard Hufner, 2007

Route climbs the face right of Sweet Plum. Climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top.

FA: Ken Thrash, Oct 2008

Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE.

FA: Ken Thrash, Apr 2009

Starts about 2 metres left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this (burly) and up the nice wall above to below the upper roof. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Mike Cartwright, 2006

A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt.

FA: Dylan Voigt, Sep 2010

Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Aug 2010

28 ** Start on the blocky arête right of BOVENATOR. Up past some reachy cruxy stuff then with sustained interest up the face to the chains. FA: Greg Borman 2013. BB: Mark Millar, Greg Borman

Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Christopher Dabrowski, 2007

25 * (6D, A) Weird but a cool outing! From the ledge at the chains of DREAMERS, un-clip the chains and keep clipping diagonally left, breathing slowly..go way left… then up to the chains. If you do this and DREAMERS as one pitch, you need a 70m rope and tie knots in the ends! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013

Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. Stays dry in heavy rain.

FA: Ken Thrash, 2008

Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma.

FA: Darryl Margetts, 2008

Start in between the 2 drips between the routes "Hey Mama" and "Ice Scream Sundae". The line follows the thin diagonal crack up to the ledge and continues straight up the head wall.

FA: Ken Thrash, Mar 2011

65m!!!! Start up the first 3 bolts of S.T.P. then traverse left to the arete, then up to a ledge. Continue up the left side of the very large open book to the roof and up to the chains. NB: this is a long route and a 70 m rope does NOT get you to the ground. Use the lower off's on the ledge. To avoid rope drag unclip the 3rd bolt once you've clipped the 4th. The route can also be done in 2 pitches.

FA: Ken Thrash, Jan 2011

A long and varied climb with great exposed arête finale.

FA: Glenn Harrison, 2007

Starts at the base of a steep rightward trending corner amongst the trees. Climb this with effort then moves leftwards to a slab and rest, before tackling a technical and airy arete. A great journey!

FA: Clinton Martinengo, Oct 2010

  1. Two pitches. The first is easy the second is very hard. Best to try the top pitch off a hanging belay (two bolts). Some outrageously thin and techy moves up the short vertical wall. Unrepeated ATOW. FA Clinton Martinengo. 2013.

Probably 33-ish. Yes, it really does cross the big blank face! Gallop up the wall left of Butterfly, to a niche, then all hell breaks loose, bring your strongest fingers. Joins Butterfly for the last 2-3 bolts.

Set by Andrew Pedley, 2008

FA: Sasha DiGiulian, Jul 2013

Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks!

FA: Alard Hufner

The crack in the sky! Can abseil in to the ledge, or access by climbing Pitch 1. Great photos from the top of the crag.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top.

FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007

Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. MCSA bolts

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2014

The second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH and be prepared for some well-deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains. 70m+. A 60m rope will be just good enough to abseil from the final chains. MCSA bolts!

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2014

23 ** [15D] Fear of open spaces! Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. MCSA bolts.

23 * [16D] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 MCSA bolts

Shares a start with TOOLBOX, tending left at the third bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back-clean it.

FA: Gustav Janse Van Rensburg, 2014

Climb JENGA till the 2nd last bolt.Then thru the roof just R of JENGA to ledge, then continue to higher anchors.

FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2017

The first line on this face, probably now partially occupied by Toolbox (above). Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey & Tim Dunnett, May 2012

Starts 15m left of God No Wall's Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. Great line with varied climbing the whole way.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2014


First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question


Check out what is happening in Baboon Buttress.