Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Lion's Head Sandstone Lookout Sector | ||||||||
13 12 | ★★ Rainbow Crag | 67m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Mar 2017 | ||||
A fun outing, and nicely in the shade all morning -- despite the rest of Lookout Sector being in the sun.
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12 | ★★ Rainbow Crag | 67m | ★ Good | Sat 14th Feb 2015 | ||||
Good for the grade, nice route for beginners.
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12 |
★★ Rainbow Crag
1
9
25m
2
12
12m
3
12
30m
| 67m | Sat 7th Aug 2021 | |||||
Climbed with backpack to get to Clifton top sector.
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17 20 | ★★ Raphelion | ★ Good | Thu 21st Jan 2016 | |||||
Not 20, climbs we'll, needs a good scrub!
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15 | Bantry Crag | 63m | ★ Good | Thu 19th Feb 2015 | ||||
Pitch 2 is really good for its grade, nice and exposed! Good route for people climbing this grade.
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13 ~21 |
Bantry Crag P1
- with
Michelle Lopes
| 18m | Don't Bother | Fri 1st Sep 2023 | ||||
Completely perplexed. Did this route in the dark, everything in the guidebook (picture and RD) line up perfectly except the grade and the amount of lichen on the wall. Pulling through the overhang was by no means a 13 move with small, angled hands and a sloped right foot with minimal holds to move up from. A smaller lower foothold snapped with ease on my second attempt.
I eventually traversed right on very lichenous rock, moved up and then traversed back to be met with more non-13 moves, with lichen filled crimps and ledges, and micro-nuts and micro-cams for protection. Wondering if I go back in day time if it will all make sense, in the meantime, I'm convinced I climbed something above a 20 at exactly the same spot, so very confused. Crossed over to rainbow crag after this to prevent anymore surprises. Would love to know if anyone else had some interesting experiences here.
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18 | ★★ Crescendo | 61m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jan 2015 | ||||
Last pitch in the dark with the head torch, good fun with Cuan and Niel. Nice challenging route. Gear is good on all pitches.
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19 | ★★ Double Dassie - with Aimée Chiat Hook | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | |||||
Great short line, climbs well, good committing crux.
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16 | ★★ Lookout | 75m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Jan 2015 | ||||
P1 has a great start, P2 is fun @ 12; P3 is amazing, was not expecting it to be that good.
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Lion's Head Sandstone Aloe Cave Area | ||||||||
13 12 | ★★ Atlantic Wall | 110m | ★ Good | Thu 30th Mar 2017 | ||||
Big loose block at the start of pitch 1 -- which is a section of stacked detached blocks. Scary when it started to move. Guidebook gave this 4*, and Rainbow Crag 3* -- but we (Mike and I) both thought Rainbow Crag was better. Not just the couple places with loose blocks on this climb -- but also lots of scrambling on vegetated terrain.
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15 12 | ★★ Atlantic Wall | 110m | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | ||||
Good fun, P1 more 15 Apparently grading incorrect in book. According to climbza: 'The description in the book says to climb the right side of the block but this leads up a very tricky off width crack. Climbing up the left side of the block is considerably easier.' P3 more 13.
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12 | ★★ Atlantic Wall - with D. Mercer | 110m | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | |||||
Probably one of my first leads on trad. Thanks, Dave, for all your patience and for "showing me the ropes". It was great climbing all those routes whilst you chipped away at completing the guidebook. Too many to remember.
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18 | ★★ Tou-jam | 97m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Oct 2013 | ||||
Either tired from surfing and yoga or previous days climbing but it it felt hard!Great variety of rock styles and moves on one single pitch. Very good gear before roof and beyond lip, looking forward to the rest of the route!
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15 | ★ Leo | 75m | Don't Bother | Mon 9th Feb 2015 | ||||
Interesting rock on P3
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15 14 | ★★ Simba | 82m | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Feb 2015 | ||||
P2 is really good with varied styles of climbing, top half flows really well. Last of the 3 pitch routes for summer!
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17 | ★ Shamba | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Feb 2021 | |||||
Nice start and middle, pity re the top.
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17 | ★★★ El Gato | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Nov 2015 | ||||
What a find, still can't believe it!
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17 | ★ Trachylepis - with Marelé | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Feb 2021 | |||||
Great single pitch, scary!
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Lion's Head Sandstone White Face Sector | ||||||||
10 | ★★ White Face | 95m | ★ Good | Mon 8th Feb 2016 | ||||
Not as good as I was expecting, good for trad beginners.
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10 | ★★ White Face - with Candice Sumner | 95m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | ||||
Bumped into puffadder snake on the start ledge
Nice intro climb to take someone new to trad
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15 | ★ Rumpelstiltskin | 70m | ★ Good | Wed 14th Jan 2015 | ||||
Let the other boys have a go at leading. Neil did nicely. I did the 13 pitch. Gear is good on all pitches Nice climbing with a fantastic view-a different perspective of Cape Town. Was also fun to top-out before the sun set
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15 | ★ Rumpelstiltskin | 70m | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | |||||
Climbed with Emma. Seemed very easy. Overgraded at 15. Pitch two was the best.
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15 | ★ Liontide | 68m | Don't Bother | Wed 21st Jan 2015 | ||||
Not a very good route and the description for P3 is not very good=vague, I might have gone off route on P3 too. My 2nd broke a foot hold off on P1 at the start, It's quite critical, so might be a little harder. P2 was lots of mantling on to ledges with good pro but some way down, you would not want to fall here. P3 has a lot of potential but It is lichenous and grassy. I don't recommend you climb this route.
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20 | ★★ Salty Sea Lion | 42m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Feb 2017 | ||||
P1-20; P2-17 Interesting moves. Happy to open a high quality route
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17 | ★★ Duly Noted | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 10th Mar 2016 | ||||
Excellent first pitch, good gear, well protected exciting crux. Beyond crux and P2 could do with a scrub.
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15 | ★★★ Wailing Wall | 70m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2016 | ||||
Shoo, P2 is really good. I really recommend this route!
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16 | ★★ Table Bay | 65m | ★ Good | Sat 28th Mar 2015 | ||||
Good route for the grade, varied styles of climbing.
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Lion's Head Sandstone Geo-Cache Sector | ||||||||
13 | Pickin' Time | Average | Wed 28th Oct 2015 | |||||
Nice warm down. Good for beginners.
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18 | ★★ Orphan of the Road | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Apr 2015 | ||||
Excellent crack climbing.
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19 | ★★ Cash Connection | 20m | ★ Good | Tue 17th May 2016 | ||||
It's a little contrived. Had to move around a lot to place gear. Feels a little sketchy in btwn, but forces you to commit. Nice variety of moves.
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17 | ★★★ No Charge | 20m | ★ Good | Sat 15th Oct 2011 | ||||
Nice single pitch warm up!
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17 | ★★★ No Charge - with Simon | 20m | Sat 31st Jul 2021 | |||||
Took one hang, it was wet, I hung around too long and pumped out. Line is actually totally fine when you climb up and into the overhang traverse.
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20 | ★★★ Billing Blues | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Mar 2016 | ||||
Great climb, could do with a scrub up top, I might volunteer as this route is worth repeating
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21 21/22 | ★★ Mean Eyed Cat | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Jan 2014 | ||||
Def not 22 One of the better routes on Lion's Head, pity these routes are so short. Once I knew where and what gear to place, felt relatively easy. Great playground for after work though.
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16 | ★ Fees Must Fall | ★ Good | Wed 28th Oct 2015 | |||||
Good climbing.
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12 11 | ★★ Luther Played the Boogie | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Nov 2015 | ||||
Nice route for beginners.
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17 | ★★★ Kneeling Drunkard's Plea | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Oct 2015 | ||||
Did this one as a 2nd with Cuan a while back. My time for the lead, yowzer, hard for 17 Very good crack climbing though.
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17 | ★★★ In Your Mind | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Apr 2015 | ||||
Good single pitch route.
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16 | ★★★ Highwayman | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2011 | ||||
Trad
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16 | ★★★ Highwayman | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Sep 2011 | ||||
Nice route to learn to hand jam on.
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16 | ★★★ Highwayman - with Simon | 20m | Sat 31st Jul 2021 | |||||
Nice hand jam at the top.
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16 | ★★★ Highwayman - with BruceMD | 20m | Sat 19th Aug 2023 | |||||
Left the climbing shoes at home, was a little challenging in approach shoes
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15 | ★★★ Scratch Pole | Tue 10th Nov 2015 | ||||||
Does not look appealing from the bottom, but climbs oh so sweet!
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19 | ★★ Felix | ★ Good | Thu 21st Jan 2016 | |||||
Came back to send after I did it on 2nd a few days ago.
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17 | ★ Cougar | ★ Good | Wed 20th Jan 2021 | |||||
Really cool.
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16 15 | ★ Feline | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Oct 2013 | ||||
Great single pitch route of high quality.
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12 | ★ Why Not? - with Mardi Geldenhuys | 15m | Don't Bother | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
Better routes to climb here. There are lots of loose things to hurt you, if you pull incorrectly.
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17 | ★★★ Pounce | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Apr 2015 | ||||
Good single pitch route.
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16 | ★ Johnny Cache Wimp-out | 20m | Average | Mon 26th Oct 2015 | ||||
Pleasant climbing, with a tentative start, I must have done it wrong as did not feel 18.
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16 | ★★ Folsom Prison Blues | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Oct 2013 | ||||
Great single pitch route of high quality.
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17 | ★★ Egg-sucking Dog | 20m | ★ Good | Thu 23rd Apr 2015 | ||||
Good sustained climbing and good gear.
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18 | ★★★ Drive On | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Mar 2015 | ||||
Wow! What an amazing single pitch route, It flows so well.
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18 | ★★ Ballad of a Teenage Queen | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Apr 2012 | ||||
I need more micro cams, without them I felt sketchy, else I am just plain crap at finding gear placements. Great single pitch route though, the most awesome hand jam pocket.
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15 | ★★ After Taxes | Wed 28th Oct 2015 | ||||||
Why do I like off-widths so much? Great route, I love it.
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10 | ★ Whiskers (Wiskers) | ★ Good | Wed 7th Nov 2018 | |||||
Fun for the grade.
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Lion's Head Sandstone Power Struggle Sector | ||||||||
14 | ★★ Plonkers Paradise | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Oct 2015 | ||||
Great route at the grade, good for beginners starting to lead this grade.
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18 | ★★ The Craving | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 24th Apr 2012 | ||||
First time climbing at this sector/ crag, first impression is very good. My winter climbing is going to be extended, yippee! Quickest walk in and rap bolts= luxury. This is a great route a little soft maybe, would be great for your first 18 lead. Does not look like this area gets climbed much as the routes need a little cleaning, excellent quality though.
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18 Easy | ★★ The Craving - with Kenny the Veggie | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Feb 2024 | ||||
Went way easy today.
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12 13 | ★★★ Yellow Canary | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th May 2012 | ||||
Great short route, well protected.
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16 | ★★ Creekers | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Oct 2015 | |||||
Great route but not 15 as initially opened. I would say 16/17. Powerful start move with the option of bypassing on the right. Top headwall has amazing technical face climbing with interesting/ creative gear placements.
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16 17 | ★ Lovely Jubbly (Luvely Jubbly) | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 7th May 2012 | ||||
Nice start let down by blandish end.
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22 | FA ★★ Ayoba | 20m | Sat 3rd Jul 2010 | |||||
FFA. #FA Trad Obvious brown face near Wally's Cave. Left of Political Solution.
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13 | ★ Silke | Crap | Thu 22nd Oct 2015 | |||||
Kuck route, loose rock and grotty, poor Aimee took the lead.
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18 | ★★★ Skink Inc. | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Nov 2015 | |||||
It was scary, but I came to terms with it! Great line.
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16 | ★ Rodney | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 19th Oct 2015 | ||||
Scary start, good climbing.
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15 | ★★ Uncle Albert | 20m | ★ Good | Thu 1st Oct 2015 | ||||
Good route.
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16 | ★★ Feathered Delight | 20m | ★ Good | Thu 1st Oct 2015 | ||||
Gets the juices flowing.
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16 | ★★★ The Inspirer | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | ||||
Nice unprotected start and the last third of the route is really good.
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15 | ★ Poke in the Eye | 20m | Don't Bother | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | ||||
Can't recommend as looks loose, but maybe not. Climbs well, but there are better routes to do at this sector.
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14 | ★ Windy Block | Average | Tue 20th Oct 2015 | |||||
Climbs better than it looks. Pity about the vegetation midway.
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17 | ★★ Cloud Number 39 | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Jan 2021 | ||||
One of the best lines at the grade in this sector, technical climbing, good gear.
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16 17 | ★★ Heavy Breather | 25m | ★ Good | Tue 6th Oct 2015 | ||||
Nice start moves and first 3rd of the route, be careful loose block about 3-4M up.
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17 | ★ Rolling Moon | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 18th Jan 2021 | ||||
Good one, nice crack at the end.
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18 17 | ★★ Power Couple | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Jan 2021 | ||||
More a variation of Kalashnikov, commiting crux.
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18 | ★★ Kalashnikov | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Mar 2013 | ||||
#78 in book If 18 is your limit try something else, but maybe I feel this way as I did not clip the 2 pitons, did not see them and forgot about them, climbing is awesome placing the gear is, well, exciting! Will make a great winter after work climb due to single pitch nature and easy access.
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18 | ★★ Kalashnikov - with Simon | 20m | Sat 31st Jul 2021 | |||||
Cool route, felt interesting placing a microcam and then pushing on to the top. There were no pitons as advertised (hah)!
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23 | ★★ Power Struggle | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Apr 2015 | ||||
Whoop First 23 on trad, went easier than expected.
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23 | ★★ Power Struggle | 20m | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2010 | ||||
Trad Cool
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16 | Cold War-Variation - with Johann Strauss | 20m | Average | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
Good climbing, bad rock.
Not for beginners due to the danger.
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16 | Cold War-Variation - with Cormac Tooze | 20m | Don't Bother | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
Some sketchy rocks.
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16 | ★ Cold War | 20m | Average | Mon 18th Jan 2021 | ||||
Good climbing, bad rock.
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16 | ★★ Garden Variety | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jan 2021 | ||||
Pretty scary! Very good climbing. Wish the FA would scrub his route/s. Scary to lead, but rewarding. 2nd best line in this sector.
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15 | ★★ Boris the Bullet Dodger | 20m | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Oct 2015 | ||||
Nice start, the top crack is harder than it looks. Lots of nice side pulls. Takes lots of gear. Overall good route.
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16 | ★★ Vein Enthusiast | ★ Good | Wed 5th Oct 2016 | |||||
It was Ok! Opened at 15, but felt 16.
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13 | ★ Heatwave | Crap | Mon 2nd Nov 2015 | |||||
Terrible route, can't be recommended.
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Lion's Head Sandstone Wally's Cave Sector | ||||||||
13 | ★ Sunny Side Up | 20m | Crap | Mon 15th Feb 2021 | ||||
Should be called, 'Crappy Side Up' or 'Desperate for another line'. Starts well up the crack, but after that bad rock and lichen encountered. I climbed it so you don't have to.
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15 14 | ★ And The Living is Easy | 60m | Don't Bother | Wed 3rd Jun 2015 | ||||
I can't recommend it as runout on P1, plus some bad rock encoutered on both pitches. Promising in places but as a whole not very good.
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★★ South-East Arête | 57m | Average | Wed 13th May 2015 | |||||
Nice scramble to test the cracked rib.
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★★ South-East Arête | 260m | ★ Good | Wed 13th May 2015 | |||||
Nice scramble to test the cracked rib.
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7 | ★★ South-East Arête | 260m | Sun 16th Jan 2022 | |||||
Scramble
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16 | ★ Two Girls and a Guy | 30m | Average | Mon 16th Nov 2015 | ||||
Route has promise, but gets one star due to lack of scrubbing & cleaning.
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16 15 | ★★ Lycra Velcro | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Jan 2021 | ||||
Really good single pitch, good gear.
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15 14 | ★ Whale Tale | Crap | Thu 19th Oct 2017 | |||||
Don't do it! Needs brushing, lose dangerous blocks, holds breaking, more grade 15.
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17 | ★★ Pumbaa | ★ Good | Mon 5th Jun 2017 | |||||
Great crack climbing, not usually found in our area.
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15 | ★ Timon - with Brian Watts | ★ Good | Tue 16th May 2017 | |||||
Climb the thinner crack on the left.
You can use standard sport rope. This nook is in shade when the rest of the crag is in the sun. Scramble up a few meters then walk left to access Clifton tea cave level.
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Lion's Head Sandstone Strandloper Cave | ||||||||
16 | ★★ Roaring Lion | 30m | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Pretty nice once u get into the style. Needs a good scrub!
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19 | ★★ Lionheart | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 16th Mar 2016 | ||||
Very good route, with a unique crux.
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19 | ★★ Lionheart | 30m | Average | Sun 7th Mar 2010 | ||||
Trad Cool name
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Lion's Head Sandstone Naughty Buttress | ||||||||
15 | ★★ Super Naut | ★ Good | Wed 18th Nov 2015 | |||||
Nice climbing.
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16 | ★★ Micronaut | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 23rd Apr 2012 | ||||
Great quick, single pitch of high quality. Highly recommended esp. when time short. Also buttress is very sheltered from Southerly winds.
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