Routes as trad in Western Cape

Follow a left tending line up the face, and near the top move left and up a hand crack.

Straight up the centre of the face.

Incredibly steep, exposed and satisfying. The route is located at the northern end of the grassy ledge running across the west face about 20m above the base of the buttress (with the long caves). Where this ledge narrows, the route starts on the right side of an overhang over a rocky platform (that makes a great lunch spot and has super views).

From a block, pull up near a thin, left arching crack. Move up to a finger rail, then left to a narrow shelf. Continue up and left, passing some good holds to a handrail. Pull through to the next rail and traverse left to about 1m past a projecting prong. Climb the short, steep face to the ledge using excellent pockets. Consensus grading needed.

Starts up the left side of the sharp fin (directly under the steep prow above) to a narrow ledge. Pull through the roof and move slightly right to a steep layback and then continue directly up the steep arete to the top. At the crux keep an eye out for a key two-finger pocket that is not immediately obvious. Consensus grading needed - probably 24 with the crux beta.

Climbs the face to the right of 'The Reckoning'. Start easily up to a layback flake system and then take a central line up the face with a short, wide vertical crack just before the top.

Hiking Approach:

Start from the Newlands Forestry Station by walking to the south to gain the steep jeep track only-just in Kirstenbosch Gardens. Hike up the track to gain the contour path at approximately 400m ASL. Turn right (to the north) on the contour path. Continue over a short section of wooden boardwalk. A short distance beyond, turn a left corner to encounter a jumbled scree slope of big boulders. The Fernwood Gully stream is a few metres further on. Hike up the streambed, including a section where the stream disappears underground, and go up leftwards to find the streambed again. Continue until the streambed ends in a dense jungle. Use a 15m tunnel up to the right to get through the jungle. Head up leftwards up steep slopes and then conglomerate boulders to then clear the forest. Traverse the steep slopes to the left to gain the streambed in the well-formed Fernwood Gully. Head up the gully and waterfalls, sometimes using the slopes to the right, for a long way until ending at the base of the enormous wall. Begin three pitches of gully climbing in the extreme left of the gorge by climbing through trees and then into the open gully. The third pitch finishes with a section of worrying looking decaying stone that can be climbed safely. Alternatively, it can be bypassed on the right by climbing up the gully. Traverse across to the big Graveyard Ledge on the left, 20m below the Long Thin Overhang.

Abseil Approach:

Take the cable car then hike to Maclear’s Beacon and then down Smuts’ Track towards Kirstenbosch. At the first big plateau 80m lower down one is level with the top of Wormhole Buttress and Fernwood Face. A 10m tall rocky outcrop is found to the left of the path. At this point leave the Smuts Track and follow vague paths towards the summit of Fernwood Buttress about 500m to the south-east. Immediately before heading uphill to the summit turn left into a shallow valley and walk down it into the pine forest. Bear left to arrive in a beautiful campsite under an overhanging rockface about 7m tall. In front of the campsite walk 15m downslope between the pines to arrive at the precipice. A metre or two above the lowest level is a little ledge on the left with a little rock promontory to its left. Hold on the good handholds to peer 30cm around the corner to encounter the top of the abseil route that goes all the way to the bottom of the cliff.

Abseil 1 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack and not much else. Abseil to the broken ledge 12m down. Keep to the north (Protea Buttress side) of the Rocky Tower and go over the edge of the grassy slope. Place a couple of directional pieces of gear to keep the line tending northwards to gain 3m in that direction on the descent, and to stay in on the mountain. Get to the lip of a huge roof underneath where a section of steel-grey rock meets white rock in a vertical line. Progressively place three directionals (small cams) below the roof to gain the big ledge four metres lower. Traverse easily to the next abseil point which is visible six metres along the ledge to the north. The lead abseiler must provide a ‘fireman’s belay’ to the second belayer who will remove the directionals and each time will ‘ping’ out into space. The second abseiler should use a locking abseil device like a Micro Jul or make use of a prussik. The second abseiler should have the haul-bag directly attached to the belay loop via a quickdraw.

Abseil 2 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack. This abseil does not do a diagonal, but as it is over-vertical, directionals are required. Abseil to the big ledge with the beautiful Rooi Els tree. The next abseil point is one metre from the tree. Most parties will spend a night on this very attractive ledge on the south (Muizenberg) side of the tree.

Abseil 3 60m:

The lead abseiler must place one or two directionals below the big roof halfway down so as to avoid being stranded a metre or two out in space at the next abseil point.

Abseil 4 50m:

The fourth abseil gets the team to the Graveyard Ledge. After passing the Long Thin Overhang either place directionals to the south to land on the Ledge (first abseiler to belay rope), alternatively, continue into the gully and then swing/scramble across the gap to get onto the Graveyard Ledge.

Start:

The route begins on the Graveyard Ledge approximately in the mid-point of the Long Thin Overhang at a small cairn. The route begins up a natural break approximately 15m from the Gully.

1. 25m 20:

   Climb the natural break and horizontal rails most of the way to the ledge, then rail out right for a few metres and then up to the ledge. Walk right to stance near the end of the ledge at a cairn.

2. 30m 22:

   Place important cams in the roof of the Long Thin Overhang before climbing around it to the right. Climb up to the next roof and then rail out left and around the corner for another six metres to an opportunity to stand. At this point one is back above the start of the route. Climb the crack for 10m and then do a slightly runout section to a small seated stance for one.

3. 15m 21:

   Climb up diagonally to the right to the obvious little three-finger pocket in the white wall. Step right and then go up to the ledge 4m above. Climb up diagonally to the right to regain a ledge at an abseil point.

4. 35m 22:

   Climb straight up to the rail and then go right for a couple of metres. Climb up the immaculate and sustained wall for 20m towards the big roofs, passing two ancient pitons while wending your way up. Climb diagonally up towards the left to intersect the band of highly-weathered rock. Continue diagonally up across the narrow, vegetated gully and continue in this direction for a few more metres to get to a comfortable little ledge with seating for one.

5. 35m 22:

   Climb the beautiful white and streaky wall diagonally up to the right for a few metres and then continue up black streaks on white rock until forced to step right across the void into a bottomless chimney. Continue up the chimney until able to regain the steep white wall on the left for the last six metres to the Rooi Els Ledge.

6. 30m 22:

   Climb up directly from the Rooi Els and continue straight up the break until forced to go out left for a couple of metres. Head up angling to the right and then traverse out right across a steep slab and then up to the right to gain a ledge.

7. 17m 21:

   Start a metre to the left of the arete and climb the bulging wall. Head up and then diagonally left to get to the ledge called Traverse of the Eagles (named by the 1966 party that opened Fernwood Precipice Direct) and a point on the abseil route.

8. 20m D:

   Traverse left under the huge roof until beyond it. Stance just before the start of the tan brown rock at the end.

9. 35m 23:

   Reverse a few metres along the Traverse of the Eagles and then climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break immediately adjacent to the huge roof. Do a tenuous traverse to the right across the steep and exposed slab for a metre-and-a-half (just above the lip of the huge roof) to gain a vertical break. Do very thin slab climbing for 5m to a rail. This section is protected by a Rock 1 or equivalent small wire. Do a footless fingertips rail to the right until able to stand around the corner. Climb up and leftwards for 3m to the small roof then move a metre left and climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break. Continue up for 6m to a roof and pull through it going slightly leftwards. Four metres higher traverse a metre or two to the right to gain a chimney. Climb the chimney to a grassy ledge. Scramble up to stance on top of the rocky tower on the left.

10. 15m 20:

    Move a couple of metres left, climb the corner and then the wall on the left and then finish up the bottomless chimney.

Fiesty start (need tiny cams), then lekker to top.

You will need to walk about the length of the route along the ledge to find anything resembling an anchor.

Spacey gear at the top.

Tricky take off, then pleasant.

Up the centre of the face perpendicular to the front face.

The blunt Arête.

The gear at the start is a bit tricky.

The second half has some fragile flakes.

The gear at the start is a bit tricky.

Start is harder if you are short.

Classic.

Starts right of 'Coin de Rocher' The start of the first pitch is a tad bold. Technically more like grade 22, but fairly intimidating. The second pitch also starts off in a fiesty manner.

1. Start from a block a few meters right of 'Coin de Rocher'. Pull onto the wall at a vague seam and up to a finger rail. Step left and then up via tricky moves to the roof. Traverse 2 to 3m right until able to pull through where the roof narrows. Step left and head up the steep face to the right slanted slots. Climb through these to the platform above.

2. From the stance head directly up a line of right side pulls until the angle eases. This is a few meters right of the 'Coin de Rocher' pitch. At the next ledge continue straight up the line of least resistance to the top of the crag.

This is the furtherest route to the left of the Arrow buttress. Really good crux pitch and very nice second pitch.

1. Smear up a small ramp and up the left corner. Step up and climb weirdly a small corner to the left and up all the way to the bottom of a crack that bends to the left. Belay at the bottom of the crack.

2. Climb the crack and traverse left to a small ledge.

3. From the ledge, climb up and traverse diagonally right through a foot rail. Climb up to a roof and traverse right around the exposed corner and up to the bottom of a long beautiful recess. Climb the recess until reach a horizontal crack to your left. Traverse all the way to the left using the horizontal crack to build a stance.

The decent is obviously to your left (if you face the top of the mountain).

With good rope management the second and third pitch can be linked in a very fun single pitch. These are the two best pitches of this route! It starts around 4 meters to the left of the start of Friar Tuck or around 14 meters left of the big chimney that makes the start of Robin Hood.

1. Climb all the way up to a roof to the left of a bulging rock that marks the start of the second pitch.

2. Climb around the bulging rock (exposed) and up a bottomless recess to a ledge to the left.

3. Climb diagonally up to a roof and take the easiest option through the V shape roof. Pull up and climb the recess to a ledge.

4. Step right around the corner and climb the strenous layback.

The route starts around 10 meters left of the big groove/chimney that marks the start of Robin Hood route.

1. Climb up, slightly diagonally to the right to reach a big ledge. Make an anchor just above the chimney from Robin Hood first pitch.

2. Climb awkwardly up on holds and jams towards a yellow groove that can be seen from the belay station. Climb the yellow groove until reach a small roof and step right using a good hand jam. Step up and climb all the way up an easy corner to belay just by the left of two big blocks.

3. Step up the big blocks and pull up to a small recess and traverse right and then up to a big ledge.

The descent is just walking to the left of the buttress (assuming you are looking to the top of the mountain).

Scramble up about 30m to an obvious ledge that cuts across most of the face (or climb the first pitch of William Tell to gain the ledge). Follow the ledge out right until you see a cairn marking the start of the route. The route starts up an undercut and overhanging face with many sidepulls and good edges. A pumpy start.

1. Step up and gain the face using sidepulls. Continue straight up, passing a thin rail and up to a higher rail beneath a roof. Rail out left for about 5m until able to pull up onto the face above. Either face climb or use a crack just to your right to gain a hanging stance beneath a roof and bulging black streak.

2. From the stance, move right and climb up using a large block and juggy break to a rail beneath a roof and the bulging black streak. Follow the thin vertical seam bordering the right hand side of the black streak (crux). Easier climbing leads to the top.

The direct start to A Sudden Loss of Cabin Pressure.

The route starts from the right hand side of the long cave feature on the buttress. You have to scramble up to reach the start of the first pitch.

1. The start is undercut. Reach up for a good blocky hold, then throw to another hold up and right. Step left and up to an undercling. Move to the rail above and go hard right until able to pull onto a ledge. Traverse right into a corner. Step up to gain a rail, move right onto the face (crux of Fader's Frontal). Climb the face until able to step left into a niche. Stance.

2. Rail hard left, at one point stepping down to a lower rail. After stepping down, continue railing left until able to pull up to a long block wedged on the face. Continue moving left and pull up onto a small ledge. Stance.

3. Move up and left until you reach a corner crack. Climb the crack for a few meters before stepping off to the left. Continue moving left and up, aiming for the black roof split by a crack. Pull up into the crack (crux). Once above the roof, follow the wide rail left and past some blocks until you reach a good ledge with a layback crack in the corner. Stance.

4. Climb the layback crack to the roof. Rail right until able to pull up to another wider rail. Follow this back left and pull up into a corner. Climb the corner, moving out right under the roof and climb the face to an abseil point (tat). Either belay here or scramble up to a higher ledge and stance.

Pitches 1-3 as for Manoeuvres by Moonlight.

1. Start from the top of a block with a cairn made of two big rocks on the top of it. This route has plenty of gear but the rock is a bit hollow and demands attention all the way up. It is a good route though. Just be careful.

2. Pull up until reach a small roof. After a very short traverse left of the small roof, pull through and climb up to a crack. Climb the crack towards an open book. Pull through the open book and when it gets very liqueneous climb the juggy face on the left. Belay from there. One can walk off to the left here. Another pitch is possible in the sequence but most people walk off here.

Composite route.