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Summary

Amazing climbing! Has a lot of styles of climbing. from sport to trad to deep water soloing. however the main form is sport.

Description

Amazing climbing on some great rock. The rock feels like quartz and is quite slippery when wet. There are some amazing climbs and plenty of climbs that would be considered classics at any other crag. The climbs range from an easy 12 to a tough 29 or 30. The wide variety of styles makes this place great for everyone. There are some great boulder problems, sport and trad multipitches, deep water solos , trad and sport single pitches, top-rope access, and even places to just practice clipping. This is why it has earned the local nickname: The Valley of Dreams.

Access issues

South Bank: This is private land however the owner is very fond of climbers and has even erected a great camping spot for us. While he likes us booking is essential. Please respect him and keep his views of the climbing community good ones.

North bank: This is also private land. The owner of this land is not fond of climbers and has banned all climbing his side of the bank. However the owner of the south side of the river said not to worry and we may go climb there. So if you do just be aware of the situation.

Approach

From Durban to campsite:

Head north up the N2 towards Richards Bay for about 90km.

Take the Gingingdlovu turnoff, turn left and head north west on the R66 for 103 km

Continue onto the R34 still heading north west away from Richards Bay. stay in the road for about 30 km.

The gate is to the right. If you go over the big bridge then you have gone too far.

The Dirt road is in good shape but it has big bumps for the water channels. All cars should be able to do it easily but its just a warning as it might be harder when it is wet.

There is a path from the campsite to the river which is roughly 100m away.

Where to stay

The owner of the south side of the river has erected a campsite for us. This is the only place suitable for camping and the nearest town is a great distance away and I wouldn't suggest staying there. There is a rondavel with a gas fridge and a few beds. There is also a smaller hut for two people. There is a spot for tents. There are also 2 decks to relax on. 1 of them is undercover and the other not. Over all you can comfortably fit 12 people without tents there however with a bit of work you could accommodate up to 25. The price is very reasonable. Between R30 and R70 a day depending on whether you camp or not. There is only 1 solar-heated shower and only 1 toilet (which has a great view of the river). There is a fridge and a gas cooker but I would suggest you bring your own gas cooker or braai stuff. There is a place to braai but the best dinner option would be a potjie as there are a few fire pits. The closest town is a big distance away so remember to pack everything to avoid having to go to the shops.

Ethic

Please remember that the owner of the north bank is not fond of climbers so if you see people on the top of the north bank who aren't climbers, please try stay to the south bank until they leave. There are also snakes, crocodiles and leopards in the area so please don't go night climbing and be aware. Keep the campsite clean and don't break things as the owner has people living right there. This is to help you if something does go wrong with the house or its appliances. They are also there to prevent people taking your things as it has been known that people who are walking down the river run up to the hut and go "shopping". However this is very rare. It is etiquette to help with the "gardening" as the climbs aren't often climbed.

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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