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Table of contents

1. White Umfolozi River 125 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 31.194079, -28.231848

Unique Features And Strengths:

Amazing climbing! Has a lot of styles of climbing. from sport to trad to deep water soloing. however the main form is sport.

Description:

Amazing climbing on some great rock. The rock feels like quartz and is quite slippery when wet. There are some amazing climbs and plenty of climbs that would be considered classics at any other crag. The climbs range from an easy 12 to a tough 29 or 30. The wide variety of styles makes this place great for everyone. There are some great boulder problems, sport and trad multipitches, deep water solos , trad and sport single pitches, top-rope access, and even places to just practice clipping. This is why it has earned the local nickname: The Valley of Dreams.

Access Issues:

South Bank: This is private land however the owner is very fond of climbers and has even erected a great camping spot for us. While he likes us booking is essential. Please respect him and keep his views of the climbing community good ones.

North bank: This is also private land. The owner of this land is not fond of climbers and has banned all climbing his side of the bank. However the owner of the south side of the river said not to worry and we may go climb there. So if you do just be aware of the situation.

Approach:

From Durban to campsite:

Head north up the N2 towards Richards Bay for about 90km.

Take the Gingingdlovu turnoff, turn left and head north west on the R66 for 103 km

Continue onto the R34 still heading north west away from Richards Bay. stay in the road for about 30 km.

The gate is to the right. If you go over the big bridge then you have gone too far.

The Dirt road is in good shape but it has big bumps for the water channels. All cars should be able to do it easily but its just a warning as it might be harder when it is wet.

There is a path from the campsite to the river which is roughly 100m away.

Where To Stay:

The owner of the south side of the river has erected a campsite for us. This is the only place suitable for camping and the nearest town is a great distance away and I wouldn't suggest staying there. There is a rondavel with a gas fridge and a few beds. There is also a smaller hut for two people. There is a spot for tents. There are also 2 decks to relax on. 1 of them is undercover and the other not. Over all you can comfortably fit 12 people without tents there however with a bit of work you could accommodate up to 25. The price is very reasonable. Between R30 and R70 a day depending on whether you camp or not. There is only 1 solar-heated shower and only 1 toilet (which has a great view of the river). There is a fridge and a gas cooker but I would suggest you bring your own gas cooker or braai stuff. There is a place to braai but the best dinner option would be a potjie as there are a few fire pits. The closest town is a big distance away so remember to pack everything to avoid having to go to the shops.

Ethic:

Please remember that the owner of the north bank is not fond of climbers so if you see people on the top of the north bank who aren't climbers, please try stay to the south bank until they leave. There are also snakes, crocodiles and leopards in the area so please don't go night climbing and be aware. Keep the campsite clean and don't break things as the owner has people living right there. This is to help you if something does go wrong with the house or its appliances. They are also there to prevent people taking your things as it has been known that people who are walking down the river run up to the hut and go "shopping". However this is very rare. It is etiquette to help with the "gardening" as the climbs aren't often climbed.

1.1. Lower Warrior Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Oslo 20Sport
2 * Splash 17Sport
3 Toy Soldier 9Sport
4 * Rorke's Drift 15Sport
5 * Saving the Colours 17Sport
6 * Old Bullets 17Sport
7 * Mpande 12Sport
8 * Deuce 19Sport
9 * Rifle Drill 19Sport
10 * Firing Line 18Sport
11 * Dad's Army 15Sport
12 * Inkosi 15Sport
13 Induna 12Sport
14 Impi 12Sport
15 * Usuthu 14Sport
16 * Redcoat 19Sport
17 * Khehla 19Sport
18 * Gogo 16Sport

1.2. Upper Warrior Wall 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hummer 26Unknown
2 * Pass the Ammo 19Unknown
3 Sand Jam 17Unknown
4 ** Sands of Time 16Unknown
5 * Piece of the Action 18Unknown
6 * Peaceful Protest 16Unknown
7 * Conan 21Unknown
8 * Mandela's Choice 16Unknown
9 * Yush 20Unknown
10 ** Batman 17Trad
11 * Cat Woman 18Unknown
12 Bird Child 16Unknown
13 * Mfecane 23Unknown
14 * Dingane's Manoeuvres 18Unknown
15 ** Shaka 23Unknown
16 ** Cetshwayo 25Unknown
17 Open Project 1 -Unknown
18 Project (Craig Robertson) -Unknown
19 ** The Works 24Unknown
20 ** Supreme Being 27Unknown
21 Project (Andrew Russell-Boulton) -Unknown
22 * Iklwa 23Unknown
23 ** Purple People Eater 21Unknown
24 Dingiswayo 16Unknown
25 Open Project 2 -Unknown
26 Project (Angus Lamming) -Unknown
27 To Be Free A2Unknown
28 Mthethwa 18Unknown
29 Senzangakhona's Sin 16Unknown
30 * Arachnid Left Break 16Unknown
31 Arachnid 15Unknown
32 Scorpion 14Unknown

1.3. Power Wall 35 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge 8 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Going Home 14Unknown
2 Winding Down 12Unknown
3 Tom 10Unknown
4 Dick 11Unknown
5 * Harry 13Unknown
6 * Solar Power 20Unknown 2
7 * Half Man, Half Biscuit 17Unknown 2
8 * Anonymous 15Unknown

1.3.2. Access Ledge to Grass Ledge 3 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nameless 14Unknown
2 * Crackerjack 16Unknown
3 * Cul-de-Sac 16Unknown

1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag 11 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Right of Way 16Unknown
2 * Way to Go 15Unknown
3 * Get Cracking 15Unknown
4 A Fine Line 16Unknown
5 * The Easy Way Out 11Unknown
6 * Onesler 17Unknown
7 * Chalk and Cheese 19Unknown
8 * Rock Around the Block 15Unknown
9 * Colour Contrast 15Unknown
10 * Sky Light 16Unknown
11 ** Sky Walker 16Unknown

1.3.4. Access Ledge to Tree Ledge 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Easy Access 10Unknown
2 Step-Down 10Unknown
3 Step-Up 11Unknown
4 Short Circuit 10Unknown
5 Transformer 18Unknown
6 * Pylon 12Unknown

1.3.5. Tree Ledge to Top of Crag 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bats in My Belfry 15Unknown
2 * Power Line 17Unknown

1.3.6. Downstream of Tree Ledge 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sensation 22Unknown
2 Return to Power 18Unknown
3 ** The Powers That Be 19Unknown
4 ** Day-Tripper 17Unknown
5 * Alley Cat 16Unknown

1.4. Gully Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rattlesnake Shake 15Unknown
2 * Hmmm 14Unknown
3 Right Fork 10Unknown
4 Left Fork 10Unknown
5 ** Mamba 13Unknown
6 ** Venom 16Unknown
7 * Cobra 17Unknown
8 Viper 20Unknown
9 * Boomslang 18Unknown
10 Eight 11Unknown
11 Adder 10Unknown
12 Flaky 12Unknown
13 Five 18Unknown
14 Four 12Unknown
15 Sidewinder 11Unknown
16 Scale 14Unknown
17 One 10Unknown

1.5. Friction Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Stepladder 14Unknown
2 Dairy Dilemma 22Unknown
3 * Dyslexia 21Unknown
4 * Haunted Child 21Unknown
5 ** God's Great Banana Skin 24Unknown
6 * High Step to Hell 25Unknown
7 Crackamania 18Unknown
8 Ali's Line 15Unknown
9 * Psychobabble Rap 20Unknown
10 Open Project -Unknown
11 Aches and Pains 18Unknown
12 * Zulu Blade 17Unknown
13 * Aqua-trad 16Unknown

1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Lorax 17Unknown
2 * Butterfly 16Unknown
3 Bee Line ??Unknown
4 Freckles 14Unknown
5 Mr Wolf 16Unknown
6 Crazy Crawler 17Unknown
7 The Promised Land 13Unknown
8 Dying Flutter 16Unknown
9 Lazy Ike 16Unknown
10 Jitterbug 11Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
A2 To Be Free Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
9 Toy Soldier Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
10 Tom Unknown 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
* Easy Access Unknown 1.3.4. Access Ledge to Tree Ledge
Short Circuit Unknown 1.3.4. Access Ledge to Tree Ledge
Step-Down Unknown 1.3.4. Access Ledge to Tree Ledge
Adder Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Left Fork Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
One Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Right Fork Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
11 Dick Unknown 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
* The Easy Way Out Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
Step-Up Unknown 1.3.4. Access Ledge to Tree Ledge
Eight Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Sidewinder Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Jitterbug Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
12 Impi Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
Induna Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Mpande Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
Winding Down Unknown 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
* Pylon Unknown 1.3.4. Access Ledge to Tree Ledge
Flaky Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Four Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
13 * Harry Unknown 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
** Mamba Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
The Promised Land Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
14 * Usuthu Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
Scorpion Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Going Home Unknown 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
Nameless Unknown 1.3.2. Access Ledge to Grass Ledge
* Hmmm Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Scale Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
* Stepladder Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
Freckles Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
15 * Dad's Army Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Inkosi Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Rorke's Drift Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
Arachnid Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Anonymous Unknown 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
* Colour Contrast Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Get Cracking Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Rock Around the Block Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Way to Go Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Bats in My Belfry Unknown 1.3.5. Tree Ledge to Top of Crag
* Rattlesnake Shake Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Ali's Line Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
16 * Gogo Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Arachnid Left Break Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Bird Child Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Dingiswayo Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Mandela's Choice Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Peaceful Protest Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
** Sands of Time Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Senzangakhona's Sin Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Crackerjack Unknown 1.3.2. Access Ledge to Grass Ledge
* Cul-de-Sac Unknown 1.3.2. Access Ledge to Grass Ledge
A Fine Line Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Right of Way Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Sky Light Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
** Sky Walker Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Alley Cat Unknown 1.3.6. Downstream of Tree Ledge
** Venom Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
* Aqua-trad Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
* Butterfly Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
Dying Flutter Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
Lazy Ike Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
Mr Wolf Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
17 * Old Bullets Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Saving the Colours Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Splash Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
** Batman Trad 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Sand Jam Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Half Man, Half Biscuit Unknown 2 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
* Onesler Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
* Power Line Unknown 1.3.5. Tree Ledge to Top of Crag
** Day-Tripper Unknown 1.3.6. Downstream of Tree Ledge
* Cobra Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
* Zulu Blade Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
Crazy Crawler Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
** The Lorax Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall
18 * Firing Line Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Cat Woman Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Dingane's Manoeuvres Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Mthethwa Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Piece of the Action Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Transformer Unknown 1.3.4. Access Ledge to Tree Ledge
Return to Power Unknown 1.3.6. Downstream of Tree Ledge
* Boomslang Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Five Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
Aches and Pains Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
Crackamania Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
19 * Deuce Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Khehla Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Redcoat Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Rifle Drill Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Pass the Ammo Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Chalk and Cheese Unknown 1.3.3. Grass Ledge to Top of Crag
** The Powers That Be Unknown 1.3.6. Downstream of Tree Ledge
20 * Oslo Sport 1.1. Lower Warrior Wall
* Yush Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Solar Power Unknown 2 1.3.1. Upstream of Grass Ledge
Viper Unknown 1.4. Gully Wall
* Psychobabble Rap Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
21 * Conan Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
** Purple People Eater Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Dyslexia Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
* Haunted Child Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
22 * Sensation Unknown 1.3.6. Downstream of Tree Ledge
Dairy Dilemma Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
23 * Iklwa Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* Mfecane Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
** Shaka Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
24 ** The Works Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
** God's Great Banana Skin Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
25 ** Cetshwayo Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
* High Step to Hell Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
26 * Hummer Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
27 ** Supreme Being Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
- Open Project 1 Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Open Project 2 Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Project (Andrew Russell-Boulton) Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Project (Angus Lamming) Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Project (Craig Robertson) Unknown 1.2. Upper Warrior Wall
Open Project Unknown 1.5. Friction Wall
?? Bee Line Unknown 1.6. Bits & Pieces Wall