Wilgepoort Guide

The main feature of this climb is a jamming crack situated to the left of a broken shallow recess.

1. Climb left handjamming crack in corner to ledge and tree belay.

2. Step up right and around corner and climb jamming crack to below small overhang, climb out left then ascend crack to ledge.

3. Ascend broken face to below final rock wall then traverse left for approximately 7m to recess and stance.

4. Climb up into recess and hand-traverse right across hanging slab on face for 4m. Climb diagonally right to tree belay. Scramble to top.

1. Straddle a layback open book to tree (10 metres). Climb past tree as high as possible. Traverse right into shallow recess using 1 sling for aid. Continue traverse right to sloping ledge and chock belay

2. Climb crack above stance to top of block. Tension traverse 4m right into recess. Follow recess (crack) to large ledge.

3. Walk left 6m along ledge and climb this face to another ledge. Walk right past Naboom to end of ledge and ascend recess to tree belay

4. Climb face 2m left of open book (which has chockstone and hornets nest halfway up) to large tree.

Off-width instead of Ouink's open books

the name means "I'm falling off!" in Slovak

1. Off the tree a the top of Bottleneck Bulge

2. off large U-bolt

3. off large U-bolt

4. off large U-bolt

With 50m ropes, the last 3 raps can be combined as 2

first Access part to the Shelf ledge. Follows a stone ramp left of the end of the cable used to access the trad area.

Second access part to the Shelf ledge. Note that this route is over-bolted to allow a beginner to gain the easier multi pitch routes from The Shelf. If clipping the first bolt, extend it to prevent rope drag.

Split in 2 pitches to allow sight on the second(s) when belaying on top.

1. 25m 15 (8D, A) Follow the easiest line that leads a slight bit to the right and to the start of a vertical wall. Follow easily a little bit to your left. (The wind and water is loud, communicate clearly)

2. 15m 13 (4D, A) Step to the right and climb up the corner (crux) for a few easy moves. Just below the slab, pick a line that will get you traversing a little bit to the right and the chains. (The wind and water is loud, communicate clearly)

3. 25m 14 (6D, A) Climb up to the first hanger and then follow a natural line of “least resistance” angling up to your right. When looking up this line, you will see a little green tree against the ski-line. To the right and behind/past this tree is two clean ledges above each other where the route tops out. (it is hard to hear your second from here) Following the line of “least resistance”, look far ahead to find the hangers hidden in the grass at each location where you will need to “climb”. Just past/below the tree you were aiming for, you will turn to your left and out of the “line of least resistance”. (you should see the hangers against the largest rocks in the area).

Starts on the grassy ledge, few paces after Misgis. You can abseil in but finding the draws from the top is difficult. 1st pitch: 17 (8D, A) obvious up V shaped break. Delicate step over. 2nd pitch: 17 (9D, A) 4 bolts strait up then diagonally left (do not use the loose block marked with X) and up another 5 bolts to top out. Sloightly overhanging. Bolted by Odette Lippold

Starts on the grassy ledge, around the corner from Eagle's Squirt. You can abseil in but difficult to find the bolts from the top. You MUST have at least 60m rope to climb. The route Tops out. 1st pitch 18 (9D, A) Koekie Deeg 2nd pitch 18 (10D, A) Stop Asseblief

The free standing blocks on top look dangerous, hence the lower off anchors have been placed below them. It is suggested that you not climb these free standing blocks.