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Description

The path from down the hill reaches the crags in the vicinity of the main climbing area. This may be identified (from above) by a large, flat-topped, attached block.

Approach

The usual descent was a scramble down the gully / chimney between the Main Wall and the block. Dave Drummond has recently placed chains near the top of this chimney and abseiling is recommended.

History

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Due to building operations at No 47 Montgomery Drive, the usual access is not available and the only way to get to the Main Wall and Wormhole Sector currently (October 2007) is via a 30 minute walk along the top of the crags from the Jan Smuts Wall.

Routes

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Grade Route

This route takes the wall on the buttress located on the left of the main face. Start from the top of a block and climb straight up on thin holds to a block just left of the arete. Climb a thin crack to a rail. Move up diagonally left and then exit straight up.

FA: Andy de Klerk & Steve Bradshaw, 1985

Climb straight up the narrow face on the buttress immediately to the left of the descent chimney. About halfway up there is a peg at a small roof.

FA: D. Seagreen; S. Peard, 1985

Scramble about halfway down the descent gully and then chimney straight up to the top. Gear is sparse.

FA: Andrew Friedeman; W Whiteford & S Hay, 1977

Immediately to the right of the descent gully there is a crack line on the main face that starts almost half way up the crag and runs up diagonally right to the top of the crag. Access the start of this crack from the descent gully and then climb straight up though the obvious key-hole shaped recess. The crux move is difficult to on-sight at the grade - layaway off a small hold to the right of the bolt.

FA: C. Leslie-Smith & Ian Manson, 1985

Start as for 'Cosmic Muffin' but continue a couple of metres further along the main crack before climbing straight up.

FA: D. Seagreen & C. Leslie-Smith, 1984

This line follows the vague, left-facing corner just to the right of 'Thunderflash'. Start at the bottom of the crag in a clearing below the corner. Boulder thinly up the wall then diagonally left and up to a large, obvious, detached block at the start of the corner. Continue up the gross-looking comer until it peters out. Tend left and finish up the last part of the main crack that leads up through the starts of 'Cosmic Muffin' and 'Thunderflash'.

Start just to the right of 'Lord of the Ages' and directly below a black streak in the brown rock. Climb up to a rail and then continue up to a small protruding jug. Follow easier rock up to the base of the black streak. Move slightly left and up boldly on pockets to the next rail. Continue up to a block and exit on the clean rock.

Start about 3m to the left of 'Stairway to Heaven' and climb straight up the line of U-bolts.

Start about 4 m to the right of 'Rumours of Rain'. Climb up the thin crack through the steep bulge. Follow the break then undercling through the roof which curves off to the left. Exit diagonally left up the undercling flakes. A classic crack line.

This line takes the blank-looking water streak to the right of 'Stairway to Heaven'. Climb up passing a bolt (very rusted and subsequently fallen out!) to two rusted pegs beneath a roof. Pull through this and boldly up to a cubbyhole. Move out left and continue straight up. If it was brushed and rebolted it would be amongst the best routes in the province! [Your wish, Sir, has been granted!]

To the right of the cruddy section is a short crack. Climb up this and past on the right of a cubbyhole to reach a good rail. Move slightly right and up to another rail. Pull onto the thin white wall and climb this to a thin overlap. Move slightly right and up diagonally left.

Start at a point just before the ground begins to rise. Boulder up past a very bad ring-peg to a small roof. Pull through diagonally left and climb up to a black streak. Continue up to a huge jug left of some grass. Climb straight up the white wall to finish.

This line takes the discontinuous seam to the right of 'Olympic Dream'. Start from a boulder. Climb up and slightly left to clip a peg. Follow the crack, passing another peg and continue straight up to the top.

Climb the finger crack to the right of 'Mists of Time'. There is an anchor point on top of the crag that let's you reach the top anchors should you want to top-rope the line.

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