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Routes in Wormhole Sector

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
13 As Soft as You Like

About 10 m to the left of the 'Wormhole' crack there is a large block that reaches halfway up the crag. Walk around the block to the small face located immediately to the left of the block. Climb the line of bolts near the left-hand side of the small face. The grade is about 13 if you keep to the left of the bolts all the way up and about 17 if you keep to the right of the bolts all the way up.

FA: Bruce Sobey & Bruce Tomalin, 2004

Sport 4
17 As Hard as You Like

About 10 m to the left of the 'Wormhole' crack there is a large block that reaches halfway up the crag. Walk around the block to the small face located immediately to the left of the block. Climb the line of bolts near the left-hand side of the small face. The grade is about 13 if you keep to the left of the bolts all the way up and about 17 if you keep to the right of the bolts all the way up.

FA: Bruce Sobey & Bruce Tomalin, 2004

Sport 4
16 Gruntal

There is a rectangular gully about 6 m to the left of the 'Wormhole' scramble. There are two cracks at the back of the gully. The one on the left provides good protection. Walk up to the base of the gully or start just to the left of the 'Wormhole' and then make a rising traverse to the left. Once at the base of the gully ascend via two small overhangs - there is a loose block on the first. At the top of the gully step left onto a thin face and then reach up to a horn to enable an easy top out.

FA: John Crumley & Bruce Tomalin, 2005

Sport
9 Wormhole

Climb up to the start of the huge crack that splits the face to the right of the block mentioned above. From here you can scramble up along the rising base of the crack and emerge on top via a narrow 'wormhole' - no significant climbing involved. Alternatively you can chimney up the crack from any position that takes your fancy.

FA: Bruce Sobey, 2004

Trad
12 Traverse

Climb straight up to the start of the 'Wormhole' crack. Traverse out to the right under the roof until you get to 'Knickers' then follow 'Knickers' to the top.

FA: Andrew Friedeman; W Whiteford & S Hay, 1977

Trad
13 Traverse Direct

Start as for 'Traverse' but break through the roof before getting to 'Knickers'.

FA: Andrew Friedeman; W Whiteford & S Hay, 1977

Trad
14 Knickers

This line climbs the face immediately to the right of the 'wormhole' crack. Start directly below the 'wormhole' crack and step up onto the face. Move to the right around a bulge and then follow the line of bolts up through a small roof to the top. Beware of the somewhat suspect block that is lodged under the small roof.

FA: Gavin Peckham & Bruce Sobey, 2004

Sport 8
10 Wormwood

Start about 5 m to the left of the 'Enil Dart' corner. Climb the off-width crack with a tree growing out of the top.

FA: Andrew Friedeman, W Whiteford & S Hay, 1977

Trad
14 Enil Dart

Climb the excellent crack that runs up the back of the big right-facing corner about 15 m to the right of 'Knickers'. Chains have been placed as it is pointless to top out through the crud at the top of the crag. Bomber gear.

FA: Gavin Peckham & Bruce Sobey, 2004

Trad

Showing all 9 routes.

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