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Table of contents

1. Winston Park 33 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 30.771758, -29.813705

1.1. Main Wall 14 routes in Area

Mostly Sport

The path from down the hill reaches the crags in the vicinity of the main climbing area. This may be identified (from above) by a large, flat-topped, attached block.


The usual descent was a scramble down the gully / chimney between the Main Wall and the block. Dave Drummond has recently placed chains near the top of this chimney and abseiling is recommended.


Due to building operations at No 47 Montgomery Drive, the usual access is not available and the only way to get to the Main Wall and Wormhole Sector currently (October 2007) is via a 30 minute walk along the top of the crags from the Jan Smuts Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Spirit and Image

This route takes the wall on the buttress located on the left of the main face. Start from the top of a block and climb straight up on thin holds to a block just left of the arete. Climb a thin crack to a rail. Move up diagonally left and then exit straight up.

FA: Andy de Klerk and Steve Bradshaw, 1985

23 Sport
2 ** In the Beginning

Climb straight up the narrow face on the buttress immediately to the left of the descent chimney. About halfway up there is a peg at a small roof.

FA: D. Seagreen; S. Peard, 1985

15 Sport
3 ** Chimney

Scramble about halfway down the descent gully and then chimney straight up to the top. Gear is sparse.

FA: Andrew Friedeman; W Whiteford and S Hay, 1977

16 Trad
4 * Cosmic Muffin

Immediately to the right of the descent gully there is a crack line on the main face that starts almost half way up the crag and runs up diagonally right to the top of the crag. Access the start of this crack from the descent gully and then climb straight up though the obvious key-hole shaped recess. The crux move is difficult to on-sight at the grade - layaway off a small hold to the right of the bolt.

FA: C. Leslie-Smith and Ian Manson, 1985

{US} AU:18 Sport
5 Thunderflash

Start as for 'Cosmic Muffin' but continue a couple of metres further along the main crack before climbing straight up.

FA: D. Seagreen and C. Leslie-Smith, 1984

16 Sport
6 ** Lord of the Ages

This line follows the vague, left-facing corner just to the right of 'Thunderflash'. Start at the bottom of the crag in a clearing below the corner. Boulder thinly up the wall then diagonally left and up to a large, obvious, detached block at the start of the corner. Continue up the gross-looking comer until it peters out. Tend left and finish up the last part of the main crack that leads up through the starts of 'Cosmic Muffin' and 'Thunderflash'.

23 Sport
7 *** Rumours of Rain

Start just to the right of 'Lord of the Ages' and directly below a black streak in the brown rock. Climb up to a rail and then continue up to a small protruding jug. Follow easier rock up to the base of the black streak. Move slightly left and up boldly on pockets to the next rail. Continue up to a block and exit on the clean rock.

23 Sport
8 ** Tabular Razor

Start about 3m to the left of 'Stairway to Heaven' and climb straight up the line of U-bolts.

24 Sport
9 *** Stairway to Heaven

Start about 4 m to the right of 'Rumours of Rain'. Climb up the thin crack through the steep bulge. Follow the break then undercling through the roof which curves off to the left. Exit diagonally left up the undercling flakes. A classic crack line.

22 Sport
10 *** Lonely Walls

This line takes the blank-looking water streak to the right of 'Stairway to Heaven'. Climb up passing a bolt (very rusted and subsequently fallen out!) to two rusted pegs beneath a roof. Pull through this and boldly up to a cubbyhole. Move out left and continue straight up. If it was brushed and rebolted it would be amongst the best routes in the province! [Your wish, Sir, has been granted!]

26 Sport
11 ** In a Matter of a Moment

To the right of the cruddy section is a short crack. Climb up this and past on the right of a cubbyhole to reach a good rail. Move slightly right and up to another rail. Pull onto the thin white wall and climb this to a thin overlap. Move slightly right and up diagonally left.

23 Sport
12 ** The Olympic Dream

Start at a point just before the ground begins to rise. Boulder up past a very bad ring-peg to a small roof. Pull through diagonally left and climb up to a black streak. Continue up to a huge jug left of some grass. Climb straight up the white wall to finish.

22 Sport
13 ** The Mists of Time

This line takes the discontinuous seam to the right of 'Olympic Dream'. Start from a boulder. Climb up and slightly left to clip a peg. Follow the crack, passing another peg and continue straight up to the top.

24 Sport
14 *** Comfortably Numb

Climb the finger crack to the right of 'Mists of Time'. There is an anchor point on top of the crag that let's you reach the top anchors should you want to top-rope the line.

21 Sport

1.2. Wormhole Sector 8 routes in Area

Mostly Sport

This area is about 150 m to the right (looking out over the top of the crags) of the scramble on the Main Wall. It may be identified from above by a fairly large area of flat rock that is split by a deep crevice - the 'Wormhole'. Descend via the wormhole (a bit tricky near the bottom) or abseil in off one of the gum trees, or ab using the chains at the top of 'Knickers'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** As Hard as You Like

About 10 m to the left of the 'Wormhole' crack there is a large block that reaches halfway up the crag. Walk around the block to the small face located immediately to the left of the block. Climb the line of bolts near the left-hand side of the small face. The grade is about 13 if you keep to the left of the bolts all the way up and about 17 if you keep to the right of the bolts all the way up.

17 Sport
2 ** Gruntal

There is a rectangular gully about 6 m to the left of the 'Wormhole' scramble. There are two cracks at the back of the gully. The one on the left provides good protection. Walk up to the base of the gully or start just to the left of the 'Wormhole' and then make a rising traverse to the left. Once at the base of the gully ascend via two small overhangs - there is a loose block on the first. At the top of the gully step left onto a thin face and then reach up to a horn to enable an easy top out.

16 Sport
3 * Wormhole

Climb up to the start of the huge crack that splits the face to the right of the block mentioned above. From here you can scramble up along the rising base of the crack and emerge on top via a narrow 'wormhole' - no significant climbing involved. Alternatively you can chimney up the crack from any position that takes your fancy.

9 Sport
4 ** Traverse

Climb straight up to the start of the 'Wormhole' crack. Traverse out to the right under the roof until you get to 'Knickers' then follow 'Knickers' to the top.

5 ** Traverse Direct

Start as for 'Traverse' but break through the roof before getting to 'Knickers'.

13 Sport
6 ** Knickers

This line climbs the face immediately to the right of the 'wormhole' crack. Start directly below the 'wormhole' crack and step up onto the face. Move to the right around a bulge and then follow the line of bolts up through a small roof to the top. Beware of the somewhat suspect block that is lodged under the small roof.

7 * Wormwood

Start about 5 m to the left of the 'Enil Dart' corner. Climb the off-width crack with a tree growing out of the top.

10 Sport
8 ** Enil Dart

Climb the excellent crack that runs up the back of the big right-facing corner about 15 m to the right of 'Knickers'. Chains have been placed as it is pointless to top out through the crud at the top of the crag. Bomber gear.

14 Trad

1.3. Jan Smuts Wall 11 routes in Area

Mostly Sport

Jan Smuts Wall in Winston Park is at the end of Jan Smuts Avenue close to the traditional Winston Park climbing area. To access go to the stop street after the lane of trees at the end of Jan Smuts Avenue. Turn left at the stop street and carry on down and park at the end of the road (which is still Jan Smuts Avenue). Do not turn off into Montgomery Drive. There is a lookout point at the parking lot with a fine view towards Durban and the sea. Follow the path to the East from the lookout point down to the cliffs where you will see an obvious point to scramble down. You will see some concrete and corrugated iron which was put up to stop access by the ungodly, but it is still fairly easy to scramble down on the Northern side of the concrete. Alternately, abseil off a tree, or from the chains at the top of “Oubaas”.

After the scramble, walk north about 12 m and you will see the start of the bolted routes up on your left. Alternatively just before the concrete there is a path off to the right. Follow that around the Southern Tip of the crag. This is a fairly easy scramble own.

This has to be one of the most easily accessible climbing venues in the area, and is starting to see quite a lot of traffic. The lines have been well bolted, even overbolted. The idea is that someone climbing at their limit will still be safe.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Irene

This is the first route on the left. Climb straight up, move left behind a bush and then continue up to the chains. (Some history: This is the name of Jan Smuts' farm.)

12 Trad
2 ** Slim Jannie

The next line is sustained at the grade. Don’t wimp out, start to the right of the first bolt. It can be climbed with a number of variations: left of the bolts is balancy - over the bolts is easiest and to the right of the bolts is the most tiring). Although tiring for the grade, each clip is made from a solid stance so it is a good lead. It is unnecessary (and probably unwise) to do a full layback off the small flake at the top. (Some history: Slim Jannie was one of Jan Smuts' nick names.)

{US} AU:16 Sport
3 *** One for the Oubaas

This is the next route under the overhang. Start up at the bolts and climb straight up to the overhang. At the overhang work higher on the left (easier for the taller people) to latch onto a large spike, before traversing out right under the overhang (crux) and climbing up to the exit. This is a good sustained route at the grade. There is an extra bolt at the top for protection while setting up a top rope. (Some history: Oubaas was one of Jan Smuts' nick names.)

19 Sport
4 ** Rocky Rhodes

This route, just to the right of the start of 'Oubaas' uses the last bolt and exit chains of 'Oubaas' but takes the direct line through the overhang.

20 Sport
5 ** Lost Airport

To the right of the 'Oubaas' line. Currently starting from the main stump of a tree, or just left of the stump. The line goes up to the overhang. At the overhang rail right on fine footholds to exit. It is easiest to clip the top bolts after exiting. There are two bolts on the last clip. The right hand (higher) one didn’t tighten up and is a bit loose, but probably safe.

19 Sport
6 ** Amajuba

This is the second last line on the right of the first face before the large overhang at the bottom. The route tends right to a large ledge. At the ledge the route starts slightly right and goes straight up. The crux is after the ledge and the lead is quite bold and sustained, hence the name 'because I expected quite a battle'.

The chains are over the top on the most solid rock available, so if you are top roping, or want to lower off, take a long sling to extend over the edge. It is safe and easy to retrieve the gear from the top afterwards.

17 Sport
7 ** A Fresh Start

This is the direct line for 'Amajuba' and was only possible once most of the dodgy looking large overhang to the right of the 'Amajuba' start fell down the mountainside. Take the line of bolts through the overhang to the right of the “Amajuba” start. From the ledge, finish up 'Amajuba'. A nice sustained line. You will need a sling for the top as noted for 'Amajuba'.

20 Sport
8 ** Two Treaties

This is the first of two routes about 30m right (North) of the other routes. Initially it required a layback in the crack, but when cleaned a new small hold appeared on the face which dropped it at least a grade. Follow the bolts straight up through the black crack on the face. (Some history – Jan Smuts is the only man to have signed the treaties ending both world wars).

18 Sport
9 ** Scorched Earth

Start to the right of the first bolt and pull through the small overhang. At the ledge there is a good bolt to move out, but as for 'Amajuba' the crux move is a bold committing lead. The name comes from the huge amount of cleaning that was required

17 Sport
10 ** Jameson Raid

The next two lines are about 120 m further North of the previous two routes. You can walk or scramble around the base of the cliffs where you will see the obvious wall (with bolts), or you can abseil in from the top.

There is a bolt at the top to safely access the top of the route while starting the abseil. The route is quite different with small holds, pockets and balancy moves. It is also fairly sustained. You should top out as the exit move is quite interesting.

17 Sport
11 ** On Commando

This is the line of bolts to the left of 'Jameson Raid'. For a 14 it will make you think, but the holds are there.

14 Sport

1.4. Old Man's Crag 0 routes in Area


Go to the stop street after the lane of trees at the end of Jan Smuts. There is an open Escom Servitude on your right. By car turn right and right again at the T-junction. Go through the gate and then turn left (sometimes the grass is long) and park under the old pylons overlooking Giba Gorge. From the pylon follow a path going to the right (facing out) below a new fence. After 10m take the path on the left hand side down the hill to come out at the top of the climb. The climbs are close to some strelitzias on the cliff edge. They are on the direct line between the pylon and the second house from the left on the opposite hill. Abseil down on the face to the side of two large cracks using the three large blocks as anchors. Take long slings or cord for this. Although the strelitzias have been used to abseil off, it is not recommended. Alternatively there is a scramble about 50 m to the left of the gully (South side), which you will have seen on your left as you descended. This is not recommended. It gets hot working one’s way back along the base of the cliffs. The gully has been sealed with corrugated iron and is not an access route.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 * Wormhole Sport 1.2. Wormhole Sector
10 * Wormwood Sport 1.2. Wormhole Sector
12 ** Irene Trad 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
13 ** Traverse Direct Sport 1.2. Wormhole Sector
14 ** Enil Dart Trad 1.2. Wormhole Sector
** On Commando Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
15 ** In the Beginning Sport 1.1. Main Wall
16 ** Chimney Trad 1.1. Main Wall
Thunderflash Sport 1.1. Main Wall
** Gruntal Sport 1.2. Wormhole Sector
** Slim Jannie Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
17 ** As Hard as You Like Sport 1.2. Wormhole Sector
** Amajuba Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
** Jameson Raid Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
** Scorched Earth Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
18 ** Two Treaties Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
* Cosmic Muffin Sport 1.1. Main Wall
19 ** Lost Airport Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
*** One for the Oubaas Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
20 ** A Fresh Start Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
** Rocky Rhodes Sport 1.3. Jan Smuts Wall
21 *** Comfortably Numb Sport 1.1. Main Wall
22 *** Stairway to Heaven Sport 1.1. Main Wall
** The Olympic Dream Sport 1.1. Main Wall
23 ** In a Matter of a Moment Sport 1.1. Main Wall
** Lord of the Ages Sport 1.1. Main Wall
*** Rumours of Rain Sport 1.1. Main Wall
*** Spirit and Image Sport 1.1. Main Wall
24 ** Tabular Razor Sport 1.1. Main Wall
** The Mists of Time Sport 1.1. Main Wall
26 *** Lonely Walls Sport 1.1. Main Wall
** Knickers Sport 1.2. Wormhole Sector
** Traverse Sport 1.2. Wormhole Sector