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Showing all 33 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Main Wall
23 Spirit and Image

This route takes the wall on the buttress located on the left of the main face. Start from the top of a block and climb straight up on thin holds to a block just left of the arete. Climb a thin crack to a rail. Move up diagonally left and then exit straight up.

FA: Andy de Klerk & Steve Bradshaw, 1985

Sport
15 In the Beginning

Climb straight up the narrow face on the buttress immediately to the left of the descent chimney. About halfway up there is a peg at a small roof.

FA: D. Seagreen; S. Peard, 1985

Sport
16 Chimney

Scramble about halfway down the descent gully and then chimney straight up to the top. Gear is sparse.

FA: Andrew Friedeman; W Whiteford & S Hay, 1977

Trad
{US} AU:18 Cosmic Muffin

Immediately to the right of the descent gully there is a crack line on the main face that starts almost half way up the crag and runs up diagonally right to the top of the crag. Access the start of this crack from the descent gully and then climb straight up though the obvious key-hole shaped recess. The crux move is difficult to on-sight at the grade - layaway off a small hold to the right of the bolt.

FA: C. Leslie-Smith & Ian Manson, 1985

Sport
16 Thunderflash

Start as for 'Cosmic Muffin' but continue a couple of metres further along the main crack before climbing straight up.

FA: D. Seagreen & C. Leslie-Smith, 1984

Sport
23 Lord of the Ages

This line follows the vague, left-facing corner just to the right of 'Thunderflash'. Start at the bottom of the crag in a clearing below the corner. Boulder thinly up the wall then diagonally left and up to a large, obvious, detached block at the start of the corner. Continue up the gross-looking comer until it peters out. Tend left and finish up the last part of the main crack that leads up through the starts of 'Cosmic Muffin' and 'Thunderflash'.

Sport
23 Rumours of Rain

Start just to the right of 'Lord of the Ages' and directly below a black streak in the brown rock. Climb up to a rail and then continue up to a small protruding jug. Follow easier rock up to the base of the black streak. Move slightly left and up boldly on pockets to the next rail. Continue up to a block and exit on the clean rock.

Sport
24 Tabular Razor

Start about 3m to the left of 'Stairway to Heaven' and climb straight up the line of U-bolts.

Sport
22 Stairway to Heaven

Start about 4 m to the right of 'Rumours of Rain'. Climb up the thin crack through the steep bulge. Follow the break then undercling through the roof which curves off to the left. Exit diagonally left up the undercling flakes. A classic crack line.

Sport
26 Lonely Walls

This line takes the blank-looking water streak to the right of 'Stairway to Heaven'. Climb up passing a bolt (very rusted and subsequently fallen out!) to two rusted pegs beneath a roof. Pull through this and boldly up to a cubbyhole. Move out left and continue straight up. If it was brushed and rebolted it would be amongst the best routes in the province! [Your wish, Sir, has been granted!]

Sport
23 In a Matter of a Moment

To the right of the cruddy section is a short crack. Climb up this and past on the right of a cubbyhole to reach a good rail. Move slightly right and up to another rail. Pull onto the thin white wall and climb this to a thin overlap. Move slightly right and up diagonally left.

Sport
22 The Olympic Dream

Start at a point just before the ground begins to rise. Boulder up past a very bad ring-peg to a small roof. Pull through diagonally left and climb up to a black streak. Continue up to a huge jug left of some grass. Climb straight up the white wall to finish.

Sport
24 The Mists of Time

This line takes the discontinuous seam to the right of 'Olympic Dream'. Start from a boulder. Climb up and slightly left to clip a peg. Follow the crack, passing another peg and continue straight up to the top.

Sport
21 Comfortably Numb

Climb the finger crack to the right of 'Mists of Time'. There is an anchor point on top of the crag that let's you reach the top anchors should you want to top-rope the line.

Sport
Wormhole Sector
17 As Hard as You Like

About 10 m to the left of the 'Wormhole' crack there is a large block that reaches halfway up the crag. Walk around the block to the small face located immediately to the left of the block. Climb the line of bolts near the left-hand side of the small face. The grade is about 13 if you keep to the left of the bolts all the way up and about 17 if you keep to the right of the bolts all the way up.

Sport
16 Gruntal

There is a rectangular gully about 6 m to the left of the 'Wormhole' scramble. There are two cracks at the back of the gully. The one on the left provides good protection. Walk up to the base of the gully or start just to the left of the 'Wormhole' and then make a rising traverse to the left. Once at the base of the gully ascend via two small overhangs - there is a loose block on the first. At the top of the gully step left onto a thin face and then reach up to a horn to enable an easy top out.

Sport
9 Wormhole

Climb up to the start of the huge crack that splits the face to the right of the block mentioned above. From here you can scramble up along the rising base of the crack and emerge on top via a narrow 'wormhole' - no significant climbing involved. Alternatively you can chimney up the crack from any position that takes your fancy.

Sport
Traverse

Climb straight up to the start of the 'Wormhole' crack. Traverse out to the right under the roof until you get to 'Knickers' then follow 'Knickers' to the top.

Sport
13 Traverse Direct

Start as for 'Traverse' but break through the roof before getting to 'Knickers'.

Sport
Knickers

This line climbs the face immediately to the right of the 'wormhole' crack. Start directly below the 'wormhole' crack and step up onto the face. Move to the right around a bulge and then follow the line of bolts up through a small roof to the top. Beware of the somewhat suspect block that is lodged under the small roof.

Sport
10 Wormwood

Start about 5 m to the left of the 'Enil Dart' corner. Climb the off-width crack with a tree growing out of the top.

Sport
14 Enil Dart

Climb the excellent crack that runs up the back of the big right-facing corner about 15 m to the right of 'Knickers'. Chains have been placed as it is pointless to top out through the crud at the top of the crag. Bomber gear.

Trad
Jan Smuts Wall
12 Irene

This is the first route on the left. Climb straight up, move left behind a bush and then continue up to the chains. (Some history: This is the name of Jan Smuts' farm.)

Trad
{US} AU:16 Slim Jannie

The next line is sustained at the grade. Don’t wimp out, start to the right of the first bolt. It can be climbed with a number of variations: left of the bolts is balancy - over the bolts is easiest and to the right of the bolts is the most tiring). Although tiring for the grade, each clip is made from a solid stance so it is a good lead. It is unnecessary (and probably unwise) to do a full layback off the small flake at the top. (Some history: Slim Jannie was one of Jan Smuts' nick names.)

Sport
19 One for the Oubaas

This is the next route under the overhang. Start up at the bolts and climb straight up to the overhang. At the overhang work higher on the left (easier for the taller people) to latch onto a large spike, before traversing out right under the overhang (crux) and climbing up to the exit. This is a good sustained route at the grade. There is an extra bolt at the top for protection while setting up a top rope. (Some history: Oubaas was one of Jan Smuts' nick names.)

Sport
20 Rocky Rhodes

This route, just to the right of the start of 'Oubaas' uses the last bolt and exit chains of 'Oubaas' but takes the direct line through the overhang.

Sport
19 Lost Airport

To the right of the 'Oubaas' line. Currently starting from the main stump of a tree, or just left of the stump. The line goes up to the overhang. At the overhang rail right on fine footholds to exit. It is easiest to clip the top bolts after exiting. There are two bolts on the last clip. The right hand (higher) one didn’t tighten up and is a bit loose, but probably safe.

Sport
17 Amajuba

This is the second last line on the right of the first face before the large overhang at the bottom. The route tends right to a large ledge. At the ledge the route starts slightly right and goes straight up. The crux is after the ledge and the lead is quite bold and sustained, hence the name 'because I expected quite a battle'.

The chains are over the top on the most solid rock available, so if you are top roping, or want to lower off, take a long sling to extend over the edge. It is safe and easy to retrieve the gear from the top afterwards.

Sport
20 A Fresh Start

This is the direct line for 'Amajuba' and was only possible once most of the dodgy looking large overhang to the right of the 'Amajuba' start fell down the mountainside. Take the line of bolts through the overhang to the right of the “Amajuba” start. From the ledge, finish up 'Amajuba'. A nice sustained line. You will need a sling for the top as noted for 'Amajuba'.

Sport
18 Two Treaties

This is the first of two routes about 30m right (North) of the other routes. Initially it required a layback in the crack, but when cleaned a new small hold appeared on the face which dropped it at least a grade. Follow the bolts straight up through the black crack on the face. (Some history – Jan Smuts is the only man to have signed the treaties ending both world wars).

Sport
17 Scorched Earth

Start to the right of the first bolt and pull through the small overhang. At the ledge there is a good bolt to move out, but as for 'Amajuba' the crux move is a bold committing lead. The name comes from the huge amount of cleaning that was required

Sport
17 Jameson Raid

The next two lines are about 120 m further North of the previous two routes. You can walk or scramble around the base of the cliffs where you will see the obvious wall (with bolts), or you can abseil in from the top.

There is a bolt at the top to safely access the top of the route while starting the abseil. The route is quite different with small holds, pockets and balancy moves. It is also fairly sustained. You should top out as the exit move is quite interesting.

Sport
14 On Commando

This is the line of bolts to the left of 'Jameson Raid'. For a 14 it will make you think, but the holds are there.

Sport

Showing all 33 routes.