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1 14 30m
2 9 80m
3 16 A1 20m
4 16 18m
5 19 25m
6 16 35m
7 14 15m
8 14 25m
9 11 50m
10 11 20m
11 14 24m
12 16 22m
13 16 16m
14 10 18m
15 14 25m
16 12 32m
17 16 23m
18 10 35m

description

A bold route for summer days, strong arms and good nerves. Epics have been had here.

Start: the start of the route is the same as that for Exposure in F Major.

  1. Climb the left hand variation on the first pitch of Exposure.

  2. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.

  3. From the pillar move up 5m then right (2 Pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to a stance.

  4. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch 1.

  5. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6m) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess , past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance.

  6. Traverse left around a corner (12m), then diagonally left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3m)

  7. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-crack on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance.

  8. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around the bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.

  9. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.

  10. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.

  11. Climb a grassy grove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.

  12. Climb a V-shaped grove to a creaking block at the top of a crack, swing right on tiny footholds and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.

  13. From the stance swing down to foot-grips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on the rib to the right to a small stance.

  14. Traverse right around a bulging corner.

  15. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner (E1), then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.

  16. Climb a water-shoot type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.

  17. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto a corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an expose corner and up via a crack to a stance.

  18. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.

Route history

1967First ascent: H. Graafland & M. Scott

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.71415, 19.13727

Grade citation

14,9,16 AID:A1,16,19,16,14,14,11,11,14,16,16,10,14,12,16,10 Assigned grade

Quality

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Mon 24 Apr
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