A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Daniglez JBP Kirill Sharikov Campbell Gome Andres Lietha TheWanderer Vratko Václavík Michal Hrapko theface Danijela Zajc
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Lanzarote
721 in Crag
-
1.1.
Bolos de Orzola 40 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Roque Vitillo / Primer Bolo 11 in Cliff
- 1.1.2. Roque de los Lagartos / Segundo Bolo 14 in Cliff
- 1.1.3. Roque del Malpeis / Tercer Bolo 3 in Cliff
- 1.1.4. Roque de los Amigos / Cuarto Bolo 6 in Cliff
- 1.1.5. Roque de las Cabras / Quinto Bolo 4 in Cliff
- 1.1.6. Big Rock 2 in Cliff
- 1.1.7. Otro Bolo 1 0 in Cliff
- 1.1.8. Otro Bolo 2 0 in Cliff
- 1.1.9. Otro Bolo 3 0 in Cliff
-
1.2.
Jameos de Arriba / Upper Jameos 22 in Area
- 1.2.1. Jameo 1 1 in Crag
- 1.2.2. Jameo de la Palmera 14 in Crag
- 1.2.3. Jameo 3 7 in Crag
- 1.3. Cueva de Orzola / Cueva de los Escaladores 25 in Crag
-
1.4.
Monte Corona Lava Tube 81 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Jameo Puerta Falsa / Jameo de la Puerta Falsa / Cueva de la Paloma 25 in Cliff
- 1.4.2. Jameo Cumplidos 27 in Cliff
- 1.4.3. Jameo de Puente Roca 7 in Cliff
- 1.4.4. Jameo Redondo 0 in Cliff
- 1.4.5. Jameo de la Gente 11 in Cliff
- 1.4.6. Jameo de Prendes 3 in Cliff
- 1.4.7. Caving 8 in Crag
-
1.5.
Guatiza / Teneguime 63 in Crag
- 1.5.1. Sector Cara Del Indio 22 in Sector
- 1.5.2. Sector Jumanji 15 in Sector
- 1.5.3. Sector El 34 26 in Sector
- 1.6. Cueva del Agua 6 in Cliff
- 1.7. Presa de Mala 5 in Crag
- 1.8. Teseguite / Stratified City West 14 in Field
- 1.9. Black and White / Stratified City 9 in Field
-
1.10.
El Regalito / Zona de Bulder / Regalito del Reyes 186 in Field
- 1.10.1. Túnel de Escalada 22 in Artificial
- 1.10.2. Herradura Grande / Main Horseshoe 88 in Field
- 1.10.3. Calentamiento / Right Hand Wall 13 in Field
- 1.10.4. Triangle and Egg / Boulder Park 32 in Field
- 1.10.5. Tres Bloques 16 in Field
- 1.10.6. Tres Terrazas 10 in Field
- 1.10.7. Dos Bloques 5 in Field
-
1.11.
El Detallito / Barranco de la Espoleta 30 in Field
- 1.11.1. Pequeña Herradura / Little Horseshoe 20 in Sector
- 1.11.2. Small Cave 5 in Sector
- 1.11.3. Bloque 1 in Boulder
- 1.11.4. Barras 4 in Sector
-
1.12.
Barranco Mulión 15 in Field
- 1.12.1. Horseshoe 13 in Crag
- 1.12.2. Ocean Rock 2 in Boulder
- 1.13. Hang On Lanzarote Climbing Centre 18 in Gym
- 1.14. La Pedrera 18 in Crag
-
1.15.
Puerto Calero 18 in Crag
- 1.15.1. Puerto Calero Seacliff 9 in Cliff
- 1.15.2. PC1 3 in Boulder
- 1.15.3. PC2 2 in Boulder
- 1.15.4. PC3 3 in Boulder
- 1.15.5. PC4 1 in Boulder
- 1.16. Playa Quemada 2 in Field
-
1.17.
Playa Blanca 20 in Area
- 1.17.1. Faro de Pechiguera 1 in Field
- 1.17.2. Avenida Maritima Boulders 7 in Field
- 1.17.3. Playa Flamingo 5 in Field
- 1.17.4. The Black Beach 1 in Field
- 1.17.5. Playa Mujeres 1 in Field
- 1.17.6. Playa Caleton del Cobre 1 in Boulder
- 1.17.7. Best Solid Rock 2 in Cliff
- 1.17.8. Psicobloc 1 in Cliff
- 1.17.9. Playa Caleta del Congrio 1 in Field
-
1.18.
Atlante del Sol 11 in Crag
- 1.18.1. Sector 1 5 in Cliff
- 1.18.2. Sector 2 1 in Cliff
- 1.18.3. Main Sector 5 in Cliff
-
1.19.
Las Maretas Seacliffs 62 in Crag
- 1.19.1. Sector 1 7 in Cliff
- 1.19.2. Temprano Quizor 16 in Cliff
- 1.19.3. Amphitheatre 8 in Cliff
- 1.19.4. Sector 4 2 in Cliff
- 1.19.5. Original Walls 29 in Cliff
- 1.20. Collado de Cho Castro / South of the Salt Pans 10 in Field
- 1.21. Las Bombas 19 in Field
-
1.22.
Tinajo Area 40 in Area
- 1.22.1. Playa de las Malvas 10 in Field
- 1.22.2. Caleta del Mariscadero 6 in Field
- 1.22.3. Tenesar 10 in Field
- 1.22.4. Playa Teneza 2 in Field
- 1.22.5. Wet Blob 1 in Boulder
- 1.22.6. Montana Bermeja 4 in Field
- 1.22.7. La Santa 1 1 in Boulder
- 1.22.8. La Santa 2 1 in Boulder
- 1.22.9. Club La Santa 1 in Field
- 1.22.10. Tinajo 1 2 in Field
- 1.22.11. Tinajo 2 2 in Boulder
- 1.23. Pared de Famara 2 in Crag
- 1.24. Risco de Famara 2 in Crag
- 1.25. Balcón Gracioso / Mirador del Rio 3 in Crag
-
1.1.
Bolos de Orzola 40 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lanzarote 721 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 29.131468, -13.655290
summary
La cuarta isla canaria más grande no es un destino principal para la escalada, pero puede mantenerte ocupado durante días.
The 4th largest Canary Island is not a main climbing destination, but can keep you busy for days.
description
¡Lanzarote es para todos! La mejor escalada deportiva de media a dura se puede encontrar en Las Marets Seacliffs y Monte Corona Lavatubes (Jameos). Los riscos fáciles populares son los Bolos de Orzola y Teneguime. El mejor risco para Boulder es El Regalito, aunque hay algunos otros buenos lugares. Para el aventurero Risco de Famara ofrece escalada tradicional multiplacha.
Lanzarote aparece en la revista de escalada Desnivel ° 34 09/2003 con descripciones de peñascos y topos. Lamentablemente no existe una guía, pero aquí vamos;)
Lanzarote is for everyone! The best mid to hard sport climbing can be found at Las Marets Seacliffs and Monte Corona Lavatubes (Jameos). Popular easy crags are the Bolos de Orzola and Teneguime. The best Bouldering crag is El Regalito, though there are some other good spots. For the adventurer Risco de Famara offers multipitch trad climbing.
Lanzarote is featured in climbing magazine Desnivel °34 09/2003 with crag descriptions and topos. Sadly there is no guidebook, but here we go
For equipment you have a Decathlon in Arrecife for basic no brand material. In San Bartolome should be a bike and climbing store whgere locals buy crashpads. Other adresses to maybe rent equipment are the gym in Arrecife and the local climbing club Lichen del Tenique.
ethic
A partes de la comunidad de escalada local les gusta que sus trabajos sean publicados y disfrutados por otros escaladores. Otras partes están preocupadas por el impacto de más escaladores extranjeros. Todo Lanzarote es una reserva de la biosfera protegida por la UNESCO, así que compórtese de manera responsable (como todo escalador debería hacer de todos modos). No dejes basura y lleva la basura de los demás contigo. Si tiene que ir al baño, esconda / entierre sus restos sin impacto visual ni de olor. Compórtese tranquilo en el risco, si hay otras personas alrededor, sujete a su perro con la correa. No bloquee la carretera local y estacione de manera responsable. ¡Gracias!
Parts of the local climbing community like to have their work published and enjoyed by other climbers. Other parts are worried about the impact of more and foreign climbers. All of Lanzarote is a protected UNESCO biosphere reserve, so please behave responsible (like every climber should do anyway)! Don't leave trash and take the trash of others with you. If you have to go to toilet, hide/burry your remnants withouth visual and odour impact. Behave quiet at the crag, if other people are around leash your dog. Don't block local roads and park responsibly. Thank you!
1.1. Bolos de Orzola 40 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.196479, -13.454529
description
Pequeñas rocas en las llanuras al sur de Orzola. Gran Marte como paisaje. Los dos primeros bolos se vuelven a montar y ofrecen una buena escalada para principiantes y niños.
Little rocks in the plains south of Orzola. Great mars like landscape. The first two Bolos are rebolted and offer good beginner and children friendly climbing.
Description and photo topos: UKC, Decathlon, canariasclimb.
1.1.1. Roque Vitillo 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.196320, -13.454259
description
Roca para principiantes y niños con nuevos tornillos pegados en la parte delantera y sol de la mañana.
Beginner and children friendly rock with new glued bolts at the front side and morning sun.
approach
Desde Orzola, tome la LZ-203 sur durante 3km hasta llegar a una curva cerrada a la derecha. Después de eso, comienza un asado de tierra a la izquierda (29.197356, -13.453554).
Ya ves Bolo Pequeño, sigue el camino de tierra hacia el sur durante 100m gira a la derecha (oeste) durante 100m puedes aparcar directamente en el peñasco ( 29.196138, -13.454105).
From Orzola take the LZ-203 south for 3km until you reach a sharp right bend. After that there starts a dirt roas to the left (29.197356, -13.453554).
You already see Bolo Pequeño, follow the dirt road south for 100m and turn right (west) for 100m and you can park directly at the crag ( 29.196138, -13.454105).
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Delante / Front | ||||||||
2 | ★★ Ampoyita | 4b | 9m, 3 | |||||
3 | ★★ La Cagada | 6a+ | 9m, 3 | |||||
4 | ★★ Machucá | 5b | 9m, 3 | |||||
5 | ★★ Baltasar | 4b | 10m, 3 | |||||
6 | ★★ Picores | 5b | 10m, 3 | |||||
7 | ★★ Yoyos no | 5a | 12m, 5 | |||||
8 | ★★ Toprope | 4b | 12m | |||||
9 | ★★ Gaspar | 4b | 11m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Detras / BackTopo. Tornillos muy antiguos, en este estado no escalable. / Very old bolts, in this condition not climbable (only belay from the top). | ||||||||
11 | ★ Ahi Daniela | 6a | 7m, 3 | |||||
12 | ★ Melchor | 5c | 7m, 3 | |||||
13 | ★ La Esperanza | 6b | 8m, 2 |
1.1.2. Roque de los Lagartos 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 29.192669, -13.450960
description
Rock soleado para principiantes y niños. 2 rutas empinadas de grado medio a la derecha.
Sunny beginner and children friendly rock. 2 steep mid grade routes to the right.
Topo.
approach
Desde Orzola, tome la LZ-203 sur durante 3km hasta llegar a una curva cerrada a la derecha. Después de eso, comienza un asado de tierra a la izquierda (29.197356, -13.453554). Ya ves Bolo Pequeño a la derecha.
Para Bolo Grande, siga el camino de tierra hacia el sur durante 500m hasta llegar a una cadena que cruza el camino. Estacione a la izquierda (¡no bloquee la carretera!) (29.193264, -13.452807). Siga un camino hacia el este entre dos paredes durante 200 m hasta el peñasco (29.192584, -13.451055).
From Orzola take the LZ-203 south for 3km until you reach a sharp right bend. After that there starts a dirt road to the left (29.197356, -13.453554). You already see Bolo Pequeño to the right.
For Bolo Grande follow the dirt road south for 500m until you reach a chain across the road. Park to the left (don't block the road!) (29.193264, -13.452807). Follow a path east between two walls for 200m to the crag (29.192584, -13.451055).
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cara Sudoeste / Southwest Side | ||||||||
2 | El día de los moraos / The day of the Moraos | 5a | 6m, 3 | |||||
3 | ★ Travesía / Traverse | 6a | 11m, 7 | |||||
4 | Layback | 5a | 10m, 3 | |||||
5 | Toprope 1 | 9m | ||||||
6 | ★★ El cuarto de los chinijos / The Room of the Chinijos | 5a | 9m, 3 | |||||
7 | ★★ El ancla / The Anchor | 4c | 10m, 5 | |||||
8 | ★ Garbancitos / Chickpeas | 5a | 9m, 3 | |||||
9 | ★★ Toprope 2 | 5a+ | 9m | |||||
10 | ★ Bocata de chorizo y queso / Chorizo and Cheese Sandwich | 4c | 9m, 4 | |||||
11 | Toprope 3 | 9m | ||||||
12 |
★ Desconocido Left / Unnamed
Recto/izquierdo 6a/+, derecho arete 5c straight/left 6a/+, right arete 5c | 6a | 8m, 4 | |||||
13 | ★ Desconocido Right | 5c | 8m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Cara Sudeste / Southeast Side10m a la derecha / 10m to the right | ||||||||
15 | ★★ Escarda | 6a+ | 9m, 4 | |||||
16 | ★★ Efecto 2000 | 6b | 9m, 4 |
1.1.3. Roque del Malpeis 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.184414, -13.461040
description
El tercer Bolo tiene 3 paredes soleadas de grado medio.
The third Bolo has 3 sunny mid grade walls.
approach
Estacione al costado de la carretera principal. Luego vaya a este (29.184743, -13.464809) callejón sin salida. También puede entrar, pero no hay posibilidad de girar, tiene que salir hacia atrás. Al final del camino hay un edificio vacío, camine hacia la colina al este detrás de él. Desde allí ya ves la parte trasera del Bolo con una escalera obvia en el medio. Camine hasta allí a través del paisaje amurallado (a 500 m de la carretera principal).
Park at the side of the main road. Then go this (29.184743, -13.464809) dead end side road. You could also drive in, but there is no possibility for turning, you have to drive out backwards. At the end of the road is an empty building, walk to the hill east behind it. From there you already see the backside of the Bolo with an obvious staircase in the middle. Walk there through the walled landscape (500m from main road).
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Tenikewan
Chalked, but old okayish bolts. Big double chain anchor from the back. | 6a | 10m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★★ Timbayba
Chalked, but old okayish bolts. | 6a+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★★ Malpais de la Corona
Chalked, but old okayish bolts. | 6b/b+ | 11m, 5 |
1.1.4. Roque de los Amigos 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.189335, -13.457953
description
Topo.
approach
Puedes caminar a todas partes. El más corto es probablemente de una de las carreteras del oeste (ver OpenStreetMap ). Por favor, una buena descripción aquí si encuentra una ruta adecuada.
You can walk everywhere. The shortest is probably from one of the roads west (see OpenStreetMap). Please good description here if you find a proper path.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Callejon | ||||||||
2 |
Kikoynito
Old but okayish? bolts? | 5c | 3 | |||||
3 | Parapepinpompan | 6a | 3 | |||||
4 | Placa de los tres Amigos | 6b | 3 | |||||
5 | Jose Facundo | 6b | 3 | |||||
Detras50m a la izquierda. / 50m to the left. | ||||||||
7 |
Ritamary
old bolts | 5 | ||||||
8 |
Tres Amigos viejos
old bolts | 6a | 4 |
1.1.5. Roque de las Cabras 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.213739, -13.447312
description
Una roca orientada al norte con 4 rutas fáciles.
A north facing rock with 4 easy routes.
approach
Estacione al lado de la carretera y camine 300m hacia el este hasta el obvio Bolo.
Park at the side of the roadand walk 300m east to the obvious Bolo.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Macho mocho
old bolts | 5c | 4 | |||||
2 |
Belilla
old bolts | 5c | 4 | |||||
3 |
Jayrita
old bolts | 5b | 3 | |||||
4 |
Baifilla
old bolts | 5b | 4 |
1.1.6. Big Rock 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 29.184502, -13.452950
description
La gran roca que puedes ver desde todas partes. Desafortunadamente, mala roca, ¡pero una gran vista de las llanuras!
The big rock you can see from everywhere. Unfortunately bad rock, but a great view over the plains!
approach
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Via Normal
La línea fácil en la cara norte. Buena subida y bajada en solitario. The easy line in the north face. Good solo up and down climb. | 2 | ||||||
2 | more trad routes? |
1.1.7. Otro Bolo 1 0 routes in Cliff
description
Buen rock, potencial para rutas.
Good rock, potential for routes.
approach
|
1.1.8. Otro Bolo 2 0 routes in Cliff
description
Buen rock, potencial para rutas.
Good rock, potential for routes.
approach
|
1.1.9. Otro Bolo 3 0 routes in Cliff
description
Potencial de rutas.
Potential for routes.
approach
La carretera Jameo de Prendes (29.175762, -13.469238) conduce más cerca de la roca.
The Jameo de Prendes road (29.175762, -13.469238) leads further close to the rock.
|
1.2. Jameos de Arriba 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.181282, -13.473760
description
Más escalada de Jameo. Estos son la parte superior enterrada superior del Monte Corona Lavatube. El Jameo medio (Palmera) es popular y está bien marcado con tiza.
More Jameo climbing. These are the upper upper burried part of the Monte Corona Lavatube. The middle Jameo (Palmera) is popular and well chalked.
approach
Estacione en una bahía en el camino de tierra. Camine 200 m hacia el sur hasta llegar a los Jameos. Mejor verifique con mapa satelital. Puedes trepar por el lado sur de los Jameos.
Park in a bay at the dirt road. Walk 200m south uphill to the Jameos. Better check with satellite map. You can scramble in at the south side of the Jameos.
1.2.1. Jameo 1 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.181393, -13.472947
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ 1
Okayish old bolts. | 6a/a+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
|
1.2.2. Jameo de la Palmera 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.181181, -13.473440
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
NN1
New bolts (1st old), new anchor. | 6 | ||||||
2 |
Cosa de dos o de tres
3 old bolts, 2 new bolts, good anchor. Blog. | 7a | 5 | |||||
3 |
La Ladrona?
New bolts, good anchor. Blog. | 6 | ||||||
4 |
Tendencia Rockera
New bolts (6th old), good anchor. Blog. | 7c | 7 | |||||
5 |
NN2
New bolts, good anchor. | 7 | ||||||
6 |
NN3
New bolts. | 6 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
NN4
Chalked, but old bolts. | 6 | ||||||
8 |
★★ De La Palmera
Chalked but old bolts, new anchor. Video 0:40. | 6b | 10m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★★ NN5
Chalked but old bolts (1st new), good anchor. | 6c | 10m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Guatifay
2 old bolts (easy) and 3 new bolts and anchor. Video.Video. Video. | 6a+ | 10m, 5 | |||||
11 |
NN6
Chalked but only 2 bolts. | 9m, 2 | ||||||
12 |
★★★ Titerroygata
Chalked, but old bolts, good anchor. Name Titerroygata. | 5c+ | 9m, 5 | |||||
13 |
NN7
New bolts, good anchor. | 9m, 5 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★★ NN8
Chalked but old okayish bolts. | 6a/a+ | 9m, 4 |
1.2.3. Jameo 3 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.181231, -13.474360
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | |||||||
2 | 2 | |||||||
3 | 3 | |||||||
4 | 4 | |||||||
5 | 4.5 | |||||||
6 | 5 | |||||||
7 | 6 |
1.3. Cueva de Orzola 25 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 29.180083, -13.469113
description
Escalada horizontal resistente a la lluvia en una cueva amurallada. Algunos tornillos se ven oxidados, ¡ten cuidado!
Hard rainproof horizontal roof climbing in a walled cave. Some bolts look rusty, be careful! Description at UKC and ilanzarote.
approach
Estacione en algún lugar cercano (29.180621, -13.469616) donde un camino conduce 100m hasta el risco (29.180054, -13.469007).
Park somewhere near (29.180621, -13.469616) where a path leads down 100m to the crag (29.180054, -13.469007).
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Exterior / Outside | ||||||||
2 | Compe de colocaos | 6a+ | 5 | |||||
3 | La rápida | 5c | 3 | |||||
Interior / Inside | ||||||||
5 |
★★ El tonel del tiemo
Starts just right of the white structure "lagar". Video. Video. | 7a+ | ||||||
6 |
★★★ El dia después
Start just right of "El tonel del tiemo". | 7a - b | 9m | |||||
7 |
★★ Enséñanos a bailar
Starts just left of the bricked up wall. Video. | 7c | 10m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Isla Conejera
NEW BOLTS (1st old). Starts on the right of the bricked up wall. Video. Video. Video 1:48. Video. Video 6c+. | 6c+/7a | 10m, 7 | |||||
9 |
★★ El arco iris
Starts 2m left of "Isla conejera" joining that route after 6m. | 7a | ||||||
10 |
★★ La fuga de logan
2m right of "El arico iris". | 7a+ | ||||||
11 |
★★ El mundo al revés
Starts 2m right of "La fuga de logan" trending right after 5m. | 7b | 7m | |||||
12 |
★★ Variante para Elefantes
Start "El mundo al reves" and finish "Ensananos a bailar". Video. Blog. Blog. Blog. | 8a/a+ | ||||||
13 |
★★★ Variante de Ralf
Joins up "El dia despues" to "Isla conejera". | 7c+ | ||||||
14 | Bailando con elefantes | 8a/a+ | ||||||
15 | La Guadaña / El Interrogante | 7c+/8a | ||||||
16 | 6c | 6c | ||||||
17 |
Circunvalación de Guamasa
Blog. | 8a+/b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Bouldering | ||||||||
19 | A1 | |||||||
20 | A2 | |||||||
21 | B1 | |||||||
22 | B2 | |||||||
23 | C1 | |||||||
24 | C2 | |||||||
25 | C3 | |||||||
26 | C4 | |||||||
27 | C5 | |||||||
28 |
28
empiezas desde la derecha debajo en la cueva | 6B+/C |
1.4. Monte Corona Lava Tube 81 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.168049, -13.458955
description
El sistema de lavabos de Monte Corona es de 6,1km, el sexto sistema de derrumbes más largo del mundo. La parte colapsable que no se puede derrumbar va desde el Monte Corona hasta el Jameos de Arriba en Cueva de Orzola hasta el Jameo de Prendes (29.175600, -13.464972). Desde allí se puede descender por estos Jameos escalables y luego hasta el sitio turístico Cueva de los Verdes y Cueva de los 7 Lagos (29.157988, -13.438681), ver info aquí y aquí. Desde allí y el sitio turístico Jameos del Aqua le sigue el túnel lavatúnel submarino volcánico submarino más largo del mundo Túnel de la Atlántida (1,5 km).
El tubo de lava de Monte Corona (junto con los acantilados de Las Maretas) proporcionan el mejor y más alto nivel de escalada en la isla. Hay varios puntos de acceso al tubo utilizado por los espeleólogos y en 3 lugares el techo del tubo subterráneo se ha derrumbado, lo que permite escaladores para establecer rutas atornilladas. Las rutas en todos los grados son muy, muy empinadas con algunos grados 5 más grado 6, la mayoría son grados 7 con algunos grados 8. Las presas pueden ser bastante cerradas y, aunque ninguna de las rutas es ' clásico "algunos son muy buenos y la ubicación, las situaciones y el ambiente son totalmente únicos. Los tubos de lava merecen una visita. Lo mejor es escalar en los tubos de lava por la tarde ya que las bodegas a veces pueden estar mojadas con condensación por la mañana.
The Monte Corona lavatube system is with 6.1km the 6th longest caveable system of the world. The uncaveable collapsed part reaches from Monte Corona to the Upper Jameos at Cueva de Orzola to Jameo de Prendes (29.175600, -13.464972). From there it is caveable through these climbable Jameos and further to the tourist site Cueva de los Verdes and Cueva de los 7 Lagos (29.157988, -13.438681), see info here and here. From there and the tourist site Jameos del Aqua it is followed by the world longest underwater volcanic submarine lavatunnel Tunnel de la Atlantida (1.5km).
"The Monte Corona lava tube (along with the Las Maretas seacliffs) provide the best and highest standard climbing on the island. There are several access points to the tube used by cavers and in 3 places the ceiling of the underground tube has collapsed, allowing climbers to establish bolted routes. The routes at all grades are very, very steep with a few grade 5's more grade 6's, the majority are grade 7's with a few grade 8's. The holds can be quite sharp and although none of the routes are 'classic' some are very good and the location, situations and atmosphere are totally unique. The lava tubes are well worth a visit. Its best to climbing in the lava tubes in the afternoon as the holds can sometimes be wet with condensation in the morning." (source and photo topos: UKC)
access issues
Climbing is forbidden all year due to environment reasons: http://www.gobiernodecanarias.org/boc/2006/237/012.html
1.4.1. Jameo Puerta Falsa 25 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.163846, -13.450782
approach
Estacione en la bahía lateral de la carretera. El camino te lleva en 50 m hasta el Jameo.
Park at the side bay of the road. The path leads you in 50m down to the Jameo.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
RH End | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Route 1
The left most, easiest and least steep line. The rock is not that good at the bottom, but it improves quickly and it's worth doing. Good for a warm up route with a couple of deceptively steep moves higher up. | 6a | 11m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ La Primersima / La Putona
A very good route on good holds, with a crux half way through the steepest section on the roof. Well worth seeking out. Video La Putona 6b. | 6b/b+ | 5 | |||||
4 | El Bolichon Video | 7a | 8 | |||||
5 |
El Bolichon Lower Part
Climb the steep lower wall to the intermediate lower-off. | 6a+ | ||||||
6 |
★★ El Bolichon
Continue past the intermediate lower-off and tackle the roof above. Looks hard for the grade, but is on a Youtube video as 7a (video 2:00). | 7a/a+ | ||||||
7 |
★ La Aveiciotendon
Starts at the base of Route 3 and takes a very steep and sustained diagonal line up the left hand side of the cave section. | 7c | ||||||
8 |
Agüita Papa!
FA: Ricardo Abad Set: Miguel Falcon | 8c | 30m | |||||
9 |
★★ Movimiento Sexy
A quality route with a hard section at 4m, followed by some easier, but sustained climbing to join "Adios a las Armas" at its crux. Video. Blog 7b+/c. | 7b+/c | ||||||
10 |
★ El Gran Houdini
A harder extension/finish to "Movimiento Sexy" instead of joining "Adios a las Armas". | 7c | ||||||
11 |
★★★ Adios a las Armas
An excellent route mostly on good holds. Most of the route is 6c climbing leading to a boulder problem crux a few meters short of the belay. Probably the best route in Puerta Falsa. Highly recommended and well bolted, making it doable even if you can't manage the crux boulder problem clean. Bare in mind though like many routes in the lava tube it's so steep it needs seconding to clean it. Video. Video. Video1+2. | 7b | ||||||
RH End Cave Area | ||||||||
13 |
★★ Cave 1
Start at the RH belay ledge. Climb the groove to a rest just below the first roof. Turn the lip, then a hard move either off the middle good crimp or higher sloper to gain a slopey crimp and undercuts at the base of the main roof. A dynamic sequence follows on incut edges to reach a couple of large flakes. Various rests can be used here including a double knee bar bat hang. From here press on through what appears to be the RP crux the gain more good holds and hopefully easier ground to finish. | 8b+ | ||||||
14 |
★ Cave 2
Starting further left into the lava tube climb the steep blunt arête to reach an undercut at the start of the roof. A right knee bar rest can be utilised before heading in to a hard sequence to reach a hanging belay in the middle of the roof. | 8a+ | ||||||
15 |
★ Cave 3
Climb "Cave 2" to the knee bar. From here break right along edges through the main roof to join route 1 and finish as for this. | 8c | ||||||
16 |
★ Cave 4
Start as for "Cave 2", then break left to finish. No draws, little chalk, grade unknown. | 8c | ||||||
LH End | ||||||||
18 | 1 | |||||||
19 | 1 Extension | |||||||
20 | 2 | 6 | ||||||
21 | Crema Catalana | 7b | 5 | |||||
22 | Voodo | 7a+ | 5 | |||||
23 | El Huevo de Vudu | 7c | 7 | |||||
24 | La Llave Inglesa | 7c+ | 6 | |||||
25 |
★★ La Quinta Verde
Another very good route taking a diagonal line left of "Me Hizo Surar". Very steep and a tricky section high up makes it difficult to on-sight at this grade. Video 0:20. Video 6c+. | 6c+/7a | 4 | |||||
26 |
★★ Me Hizo Sudar
A very good route that climbs the steep rib slanting up and left. Start left of "La Calentona", climb the short wall and make a harder move to reach the rib. Follow this using huge holds and threads to the belay chain. Video 0:18. Video 2:05 6b+. | 6b/b+ | 6 | |||||
27 | Maldito Cepillo | 6b+/c | 1 | |||||
28 |
★★ La Calentona
A good route with clean sound rock and mostly on big holds. Probably the most climbed route in the Puerta False. A steep start leads to a good rest in the niche. Move up and right from here, with the crux the moves back left to the chain. Video 2:05 6b. Video. Video. | 6a - b | 3 |
1.4.2. Jameo Cumplidos 27 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.165527, -13.454002
approach
Hay 2 posibilidades para ir a Jameo Cumplidos y Jameo de Puente Roca. Puedes caminar a través de un arco impresionante entre ambos Jameos.
There are 2 possibilities to go to Jameo Cumplidos and Jameo de Puente Roca. You can walk through an impressive arch between both Jameos.
Estacione como para Jameo Purta Falsa en una bahía lateral de la carretera y camine 50 m hacia el norte. En el extremo noroeste comienza un camino tenue marcado con mojones. Te lleva directamente al noroeste de Jameo Cumplidos. Ponga su granito de arena y sume a los mojones, ya que puede ser fácil perder el camino incluso si lo ha estado antes.
Park as for Jameo Purta Falsa at a side bay of the road and walk 50m north to it. At the northwest end start a faint path marked with cairns. It leads you directly northwest to Jameo Cumplidos. Do your bit and add to the cairns as it can be easy to lose the path even if you've been before.
Aparque en el Jameo de la Gente y camine 50 m hacia el este. Luego encuentre un camino que conduzca al sureste directamente entre los Jameos.
Park as for Jameo de la Gente and walk 50m east to it. Then find a path leading southeast directly between the Jameos.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
approach (seaward) side of the arch | ||||||||
2 | East End Left | |||||||
3 | ★ East End | 7a | ||||||
4 |
★ Ropey
Chalked, but old bolts. | 6a/a+ | 10m, 5 | |||||
5 |
★ A-ha
Chalked, but old bolts. Climb the steep wall to the obvious overhang. Pull through on good holds to reach the lower-off. | 6a | 11m, 6 | |||||
6 |
★★ Not to be sniffed at
This is the best of this trio of routes with some really good steep climbing on amazing holds. FA: Dec 2018 | 6a | 9m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Sneeze
Nice climbing with a some steep moves up and right to the belay. FA: Dec 2018 | 5b | 9m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★★ Blow
Easy climbing on sculpted lava. It first moves up and right with just a couple of stiff pulls at the end back left to get to the belay. FA: Dec 2018 | 4c | 9m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★★ Rib
Climb a rib with difficult moves using finger edges to gain better holds at its top. Continue more easily up to the lower-off. Maint: Dec 2018 | 6c+ | 5 | |||||
10 |
★★ Groove
The corner right of "Rib". Climb easily up good holds. Stretch for undercut high up the corner then easily to the belay. Maint: Dec 2018 | 6c | 15m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★★ Roof 1
Start on good holds, tackle the roof using a pinch type horizontal to quickly gain good holds again and easily up to the lower-off clip. Maint: Dec 2018 | 6c | 15m, 4 | |||||
12 |
★★ Route 4
A very good climb. Go up to an obvious block in the roof. Gain a pinch above and then jugs up the hanging prow. Pull right to the belay. Maint: Dec 2018 | 6c+ | 18m, 5 | |||||
13 | Route 5 | 4 | ||||||
14 | Route 6 | |||||||
15 |
★★★ Overhanging Arete.
A very good route taking the obvious arete from the foot of the arch. Swing round to the right at half height to move up to the lower off in the roof. | 7a+ | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Overhanging Arete Extension | 7c | ||||||
17 | Route 8 | |||||||
Roof of the Arch | ||||||||
19 |
★★ 1
The roof of the very impressive arch is covered in situ clips. There are at least 4 routes crossing it. They are all obviously very hard and need knowledge and practice. Pictures. | 8a | ||||||
20 | ★★ 2 | 8a | ||||||
21 | ★★ 3 | 8a | ||||||
22 | ★★ 4 | 8a | ||||||
descent (inland) side of the arch | ||||||||
24 |
Leaning Wall Route 1A
Start up the left hand side of leaning wall and escape diagonally up and right to the ledge to use the lower off in the roof at the top of "Learning Wall route 2". Reasonable start, but a bit dirty going across right. | 6a+ | ||||||
25 |
★ Leaning Wall Route 1B (and 1C)
Start up "Route 1A", but go up and left on very steep rock before moving back right to the belay chain. "Route 1C" continues even higher on even steeper ground to a lower-off (7c). | 7a+ | ||||||
26 | Leaning Wall Route 2 Extension | |||||||
27 |
★★ Leaning Wall Route 2
Start halfway down the slope and below a belay at half height. A very good climb that's steeper than it looks. Climb the lower half of the wall on good jugs and undercuts to reach a ledge with the lower-off in the roof above. | 6c | 15m | |||||
28 |
★★ Leaning Wall Route 3
Start just right of "Route 2" following a diagonal line up and right to a lower-off clip on the lip of the half height roof. | 6c+ | ||||||
29 |
★★ Arch Left Route 4
Start up the right hand side of Leaning Wall, just left of the arch roof. After the first wall surmount the first roof and then an even bigger one to reach a lower-off clip on the right. More routes continue up from here above the arch with a really good looking lip traverse going across. | 7b+ | ||||||
30 |
★★ Arch Right
This is the overhanging arete on the right hand side of the arch, to the right of the descent scramble. There's at least one hard route going up and diagonally left from this, bolted in Dec 2017. | 7a+ |
1.4.3. Jameo de Puente Roca 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.165958, -13.455495
approach
Hay 2 posibilidades para ir a Jameo Cumplidos y Jameo de Puente Roca. Puedes caminar a través de un arco impresionante entre ambos Jameos.
There are 2 possibilities to go to Jameo Cumplidos and Jameo de Puente Roca. You can walk through an impressive arch between both Jameos.
Estacione como para Jameo Purta Falsa en una bahía lateral de la carretera y camine 50 m hacia el norte. En el extremo noroeste comienza un camino tenue marcado con mojones. Te lleva directamente al noroeste de Jameo Cumplidos. Ponga su granito de arena y sume a los mojones, ya que puede ser fácil perder el camino incluso si lo ha estado antes.
Park as for Jameo Purta Falsa at a side bay of the road and walk 50m north to it. At the northwest end start a faint path marked with cairns. It leads you directly northwest to Jameo Cumplidos. Do your bit and add to the cairns as it can be easy to lose the path even if you've been before.
Aparque en el Jameo de la Gente y camine 50 m hacia el este. Luego encuentre un camino que conduzca al sureste directamente entre los Jameos.
Park as for Jameo de la Gente and walk 50m east to it. Then find a path leading southeast directly between the Jameos.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lado Oeste / West Side | ||||||||
2 | 1 | |||||||
3 | 2 | |||||||
4 | 3 | |||||||
5 | 4 | |||||||
6 | 5 | |||||||
7 | 6 | |||||||
8 | 7 | |||||||
Lado Este / East SideSee Leaning Wall at Jameo Cumplidos. |
1.4.4. Jameo Redondo 0 routes in Cliff
description
Sin rutas de escalada, demasiado cortas.
No climbing routes, too short.
1.4.5. Jameo de la Gente 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.167438, -13.460765
approach
Hay un estacionamiento en la pared a 100 metros de la carretera. Siga el muro 100 m al este hasta el Jameo. En el lado este hay una bajada fácil en el Jameo.
There is a parking lot at the wall 100m from the road. Follow the wall 100m east to the Jameo. On the east side is an easy downclimb in the Jameo.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Left Wing
A good route. Start at the far left of the amphitheater. Follow the glue in bolts to a clip lower off at the chain passing a steep crux section at 2/3 height. | 6a | ||||
2 | 1 | |||||
3 |
★★ Lian Shang Po / Centre L1
From just right of "Left Wing" follows bolts diagonally up and right into some very steep terrain. Blog. There looks to be an even harder extension above the belay. | 7b - c | ||||
4 |
★ From the Depths
A route climbs out of the dark depths of the cave to finish on the lip below the upper section of "Centre L1". | 8a | ||||
5 |
★★ ?
Start at the left side right wing wall climb up to reach a pocketed prow. Climb onto this and then launch up and left through the roofs. Name is not 'El Huevo de Vudu', that is in Jameo Puerto Falsa. | 7c | ||||
6 |
★★ Centre Roof
Climb through the obvious roof to join the rail traverse. | 7c+/8a | ||||
7 |
★★ Ruta del Pio Pio / Rail Traverse Left
Start up the bolts left of "Right Wing" and go up and left to reach the obvious juggy rail. Hook your way left on this until it is possible to pull round and move up to the belay. Video 0:59. Blog. Blog 7b+. | 7a+/b | ||||
8 | Pio Pio Extension | 8a/a+ | ||||
9 |
★★ Right Wing
A good route on the far right of the amphitheater. Start easily up the wall, which increasingly steepens to a final reach for the belay clip which hangs from the middle of the capping roof. | 6c+ | ||||
10 |
Maldiciendo
Mentioned here. Please merge routes if you can identify. | 7c | ||||
11 |
Fiebre Supina
Mentioned here. Please merge routes if you can identify. | 7c+ |
1.4.6. Jameo de Prendes 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.175617, -13.464982
description
Inicio superior de la espeleología. En el interior tienes 2 líneas atornilladas que también puedes escalar.
Upper start of the caving. Inside you have 2 bolted lines you can also climb.
approach
Desde el aparcamiento, camine 100m al sur hasta el Jameo. Una escalera a través de una puerta abierta conduce al Jameo.
From the parking walk 100m south to the Jameo. A staircase trough an open door leads down in the Jameo.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Abseil Route Left
Tome la entrada sur de la cueva. Después de 100 m llegas a un agujero sin salida, hay 3 nuevos tornillos pegados para atravesar en el lado izquierdo (grado 2, para escaladores no es absolutamente necesario asegurar, pero no resbales en el agujero). Luego se llega al ancla de esta "Ruta del Rápel". Baje, salga. Nuevos tornillos pegados, sucios, ¡pero toda la aventura en la cueva en combinación con la escalada es divertida! Take the south cave entry. After 100m you reach a dead end hole, there are 3 new glued bolts to traverse on the left side (grade 2, for climbers belay not absolutely necessary, but don't slip in the hole). Then you reach the anchor of this "Abseil Route". Rap down, climb out. New glued bolts, dirty, but the whole cave adventure in combination with climbing is fun! | 5a | 17m, 7 | |||
2 | Abseil Route Right | 4b | 17m, 7 | |||
3 |
Route 2
5min más abajo de la cueva, 200m antes del callejón sin salida, hay una rampa de retroceso y nuevos pernos pegados que atraviesan a la derecha en el lado izquierdo. Esto conduce a una segunda etapa y también se puede subir. 5min further down the cave, 200m before the dead end, there is a back going ramp and new glued bolts traversing right on the left side. This leads to a second stage and can be climbed too. |
1.4.7. Caving 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
description
Desde Jameo de Prendes hasta Jameos del Agua hay un sistema de túneles de 6 km de longitud que se puede caminar. Es fácil caminar y trepar, pero necesitas seguridad en los escalones y un faro. ¡Impresionante!
From Jameo de Prendes to Jameos del Agua there is a tunnel system of 6km length you can walk. It's easy scrambling and walking, but you need step security and a headlamp. Impressive! The given times here are for fast walkers without backpack and good step security.
Guidebook. Good guide, but some parts are incomprehensible and the distances are completely wrong.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jameos de Prendes North End
Callejón sin salida después de 150m. Dead end after 150m. | |||||
2 |
Jameos de Prendes South End 2way
Take the south cave entry. After 100m you reach a dead end hole, there are 3 new glued bolts to traverse on the left side (grade 2, for climbers belay not absolutely necessary, but don't slip in the hole). Then you reach the anchor of "Abseil Route" (Jameo de Prendes). Rap down. Following the bottom of the tunnel you reach a dead end after 10min. 200m before you see left a ramp and glued bolts ("Route 2", Jameo de Prendes). (Maybe this leads to somewhere? I didn't find the way to Jameo de la Gente from the guidebook.) Turn back and climb or pull out "Abseil Route". | |||||
3 |
Jameo de Prendes - Jameo de la Gente
La guía es incomprensible, no pude encontrarla: "Como un viaje a través de 1170 m de longitud. Comenzando en la parte superior del sistema de tubos de lava Monte Corona, preinstale la subida de salida desde la entrada de Prendes con una escalera de 10 my una cuerda de 25 m. (que servirá como un largo aseguramiento para la escalera y como línea de vida). Luego ingrese en la entrada de Gentes y continúe subiendo hasta que en la parte superior de una trepada de 30 pies llegue al paso de 7 m equipado para el tirón. Tome una cuerda de 20 m. . Tire de la cuerda y, después de unos 50 m de espeleología adicional, llegará al final de la escalera en la entrada de Prendes ". The guidebook is incomprehensible, I couldn't find it: "As a through trip Length 1170m. Starting at the top of the Monte Corona lava tube system, pre rig the exit climb from the Prendes entrance with a 10m ladder, and 25m rope. (which will serve as a long belay for the ladder and as a lifeline.) Then enter at the Gentes entrance and continue up flow until at the top of a 30ft scramble you reach the 7m pitch rigged for pull-through. Take a 20m rope. Pull through the rope, and after about 50m of further caving you will reach the bottom of the ladder in the Prendes entrance." | |||||
4 |
Jameo de la Gente - Jameo de Prendes
Same backwards, where is the way through? | |||||
5 |
Jameo de la Gente North End 2way
Si toma la entrada norte desde Jameo de la Gente, puede caminar unos impresionantes 25 minutos hasta llegar a un callejón sin salida. Volver. Es un túnel despejado, no encontré ningún branach o algún camino a Jameo de Prendes, pero según la guía debería haber uno. If you take the north entry from Jameo de la Gente you can walk impressive long 25min until you reach a dead end. Turn back. It is a clear tunnel, I didn't find any branach or some way to Jameo de Prendes, but according to the guidebook there should be one. | |||||
6 |
Jameo de la Gente - Jameo Purta Falsa
Caminata impresionante de 25 minutos, solo 1 lugar donde tienes que abrocharte el cinturón de la mochila para pasar por una ranura lateral. 25min impressive long walk, only 1 spot where you have to buckle up the backpack to squeeze trough a side slot. Guidebook description: "As a through trip, length 1165m. Enter the Jameo de la Gentes and head down flow (to the right). Follow the main passage down until you reach a boulder collapse. At the first boulder collapse take the small stooping tunnel around the collapse to the left hand side. Continue on, and at the 2nd collapse take the small hole in the floor on the right hand side, to bypass this obstruction. On exiting the bypass look to your left as you regain larger passage, and sign the log book left for visitors to the cave. Continue down flow until you reach the exit of Puerta Falsa. The walk back to collect your car is just over 1 mile if you use the roads. An alternative, should you have GPS, is to walk in a direct line back to the Gentes entrance, passing the 3 impressive jameos which make up the Jameos Cumplidos." | |||||
7 |
Jameo Cumplidos -
¿Lleva el extremo sur de Jameo Cumplidos a alguna parte? Según este dibujo sí, pero caminé desde el Jameo de la Gente hasta el Jameo Puerta Falsa sin notar ninguna rama. Does the south end of Jameo Cumplidos lead to somewhere? Acoording to this drawing yes, but I walked from Jameo de la Gente to Jameo Puerta Falsa without noticing any branches (I didn't check Cumplidos). | |||||
8 |
★★★ Jameo Purta Falsa - Cueva de los Verdes 2way
Tome el extremo sur del Jameo Puerta Falsa y camine 20min hasta llegar a una gran cerca con alambre y linterna automática donde probablemente pronto comience la cueva turística. Así que vuelve ... Take the south end of Jameo Puerta Falsa and walk 20min until you reach a big fence with wire and automatic flashlight where probably soon the tourist cave start. So turn back... Guidebook description: "As a two way trip, length 800m. Enter at Puerta Falsa and go downflow (to the right). The passage starts as double level before rejoining back to a single level. After approx 400m the passage is fenced signifying the start of the Las Verdes Show Cave." |
1.5. Guatiza 63 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.087121, -13.495641
summary
Acantilado de basalto orientado al este con excelente vista y buena roca.
East facing basalt cliff with great view and good rock.
description
50 rutas atornilladas, pero los tornillos más antiguos están oxidados y ya no son buenos. Los recorridos con pernos encolados nuevos son realmente buenos. Los dos primeros sectores tienen rutas fáciles y de grado medio, el sector El 34 es para los de difícil movimiento.
50 bolted routes, but the older bolts are rusty and not good anymore. The routes with new glued bolts are really good. The first two sectors have easy and mid grade routes, sector El 34 is for hard movers.
See also description and topos at UKC, Liquen Des Tenique, todoactividades and ilanzarote.
approach
(29.075137, -13.491996), Sector Cara Del Indio (29.085346, -13.494224), Sector Jumanji (29.086378, -13.494898), Sector El 34 (29.088420, -13.496642)
Desde el aparcamiento comienza un camino a la derecha del edificio. Siga hacia el norte durante 600 m en la cresta hasta que (aquí29.083010, -13.494210) pueda seguirlo en la base del acantilado hasta las primeras rutas.
From the parking there starts a path right of the building. Follow it north for 600m at the ridge until (here29.083010, -13.494210) you can follow it at the base of the cliff to the first routes.
1.5.1. Sector Cara Del Indio 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.085474, -13.494473
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Barba Y Babas | 6b | ||||||
2 | Ojos de avellana | 5a | ||||||
3 | ★ Lujuuria | 6c | ||||||
4 |
El cachito de la Heidi
according to UKC sometimes chalked, so climbed, but old bolts... | 6b+ | ||||||
5 |
★★ La mosca - Paella mixta
NEW BOLTS. Skip the roof crux and climb the paella corner for 6b+ | 6b+ | 21m, 11 | |||||
6 |
★★ La mosca
NEW BOLTS | 6a+ | 21m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ Paella mixta
NEW BOLTS. Video. | 7a/a+ | 21m, 10 | |||||
8 | Faemino y cansado | 6c | ||||||
9 | Hagale un rincon | 6b+ | ||||||
10 | ? | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
Ladykiller
name and grade written on the wall, newer bolts? | 6a+ | ||||||
12 | La almohad | 6a | ||||||
13 |
★★ Luigi el Amorosa / Cadenza
'Luigi el Amorosa' 6c or 'Cadenza' 7b? According to one repeater it's more the 2nd. | 6c - 7b | ||||||
14 |
★★ El pan Duro
NEW BOLTS | 6a | 16m, 6 | |||||
15 |
★★ Pan bizcochado
NEW BOLTS. Awesome layback! Video. | 5c | 16m, 7 | |||||
16 |
★★ Pan suave
NEW BOLTS | 5c | 16m, 8 | |||||
17 | El diedro | 6a+ | ||||||
18 | Cadenza | 7b | ||||||
19 | Inversus | 6a+ | ||||||
20 | La bavaresa | 6a | ||||||
21 | La de al lado | 6b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
★★ La cara del indio
Chalked, good climb, but old bolts... | 6a | 9m, 4 |
1.5.2. Sector Jumanji 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.086358, -13.494946
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La otra cara | 6a | ||||||
2 | Ská-p | 6c | ||||||
3 | Jamanji | 7c | ||||||
4 | Apenea | 6a | ||||||
5 |
★★ El cojin
The arete left of "Area reservada". Chalked, good climb, but old bolts... | 6a | 18m, 5 | |||||
6 |
Ahi val hombre
? | 6a+ | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Area reservada
NEW BOLTS | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||||
8 |
La tabaida
old bolts or you could clip the new bolts of "Area reservada" left | 5c | 18m | |||||
9 | Goma 2 | 6c | 18m | |||||
10 | Mila | 5c | ||||||
11 | La garrafa | 6b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ La romperbrazos
NEW BOLTS | 6a | 14m, 4 | |||||
13 |
★★★ La romeo
NEW BOLTS | 6a | 14m, 3 | |||||
14 |
★★★ La primavera LH
NEW BOLTS | 5a | 14m, 4 | |||||
15 |
★★ La primavera RH
NEW BOLTS | 4c | 14m, 4 |
1.5.3. Sector El 34 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.088554, -13.496856
description
Sector sombrío y empinado de escalada dura. Algunas rutas tienen nuevos tornillos pegados y también los viejos tornillos oxidados.
Shady steep hard climbing sector. Some routes have new glued bolts and there are old rusty bolts too. Video.
approach
Desde el Sector Jumanji, siga el camino en la base del acantilado durante 300 m hasta que tenga que encontrar el camino hacia un pequeño valle lateral. Probablemente también podría caminar hasta el fondo del valle.
From Sector Jumanji follow the path on base of the cliff for 300m until you have to find your way down to a little side valley. You probably could also walk there at the valley bottom.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rutas que ves / Routes you seeCombine las rutas que pueda identificar. / Please merge routes you can identify. In the topo I just draw a few new bolts (old bolts are everywhere). I guess these are complete routes, try to climb it and put a grade on (And contribute to the topo...) | ||||||||
2 |
1
old bolts | |||||||
3 |
2
NEW BOLTS | |||||||
4 |
3
old bolts | |||||||
5 |
4
NEW BOLTS | |||||||
6 |
5
NEW BOLTS | |||||||
7 |
Cigarrito Espeso
NEW BOLTS. Photos. | 8a+ | ||||||
8 |
7
old bolts | |||||||
9 |
8
NEW BOLTS | |||||||
10 | 9 Rapel | |||||||
Parte trasera / Back Side | ||||||||
12 | B | 4 | ||||||
Nombres y grados / Names and GradesAccording to UKC. Liquen del Tenique is a bit different but similiar. Merge what you can identify. | ||||||||
14 | La marcha de las mujeres | 6a+ | ||||||
15 | Cosa de dos | 6a | ||||||
16 | La reina | 6a+ | ||||||
17 | Mi amigo el doctor | 6b | ||||||
18 | Beranduda | 7a | ||||||
19 | Las flores del mal | 7b+ | ||||||
20 | Abbadon l exterminador | 7a | ||||||
21 | Mama de la teta de su hermana | 7a | ||||||
22 | El hombre de aceronflower | 6b | ||||||
23 | El embrutecido | 7c+ | ||||||
24 | Malena | 7c | ||||||
25 | El cigarrito pa melena | 7b | ||||||
26 | La al morrana asesina | 7b+ | ||||||
27 | Como me la pone Julieta | 6b | ||||||
28 | Como me la pone Romeo | 7a | ||||||
29 | El silecio de los conejeros | 6b | ||||||
|
1.6. Cueva del Agua 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: 29.070068, -13.456469
description
Lugar de psicobloc.
Deep Water Solo spot.
approach
Desde el estacionamiento, camine hacia el norte (a la izquierda del edificio).
From the parking walk north (left of the building).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ 1 | 6+ | ||||||
2 | ★★ 2 | 6b+ 5+ | ||||||
3 | 3 | |||||||
4 | 4 | |||||||
5 | 5 | |||||||
6 |
Baja y sube
Tienes que bajar primeramente para poder empezar esta ruta. También se puede empezar desde el agua https://youtu.be/vJIrEJscT2A | 5b | ||||||
|
1.7. Presa de Mala 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Top roping, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 29.109137, -13.477261
summary
Antigua presa por la que se puede caminar. Roca de buena calidad, pero rara vez desarrollada.
Old dam you can walk in (headlamp! 3 stages!). Good rock quality but rarely developed.
description
En el pilar del acantilado este (29.108811, -13.477517) hay 2 pasadores de pernos nuevos, probablemente para un resaltado espectacular.
At the east cliff pillar (29.108811, -13.477517) are 2 new bolt pins, probably for spectacular highlining? Video.
approach
Estacionamiento para un lugar popular para planeadores. Baje las escaleras y el sendero a lo largo de una vieja tubería de agua.
Parking for a popular glider spot. Walk down the stairs and the hiking path along an old water pipe.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Lonely Bolt | 1 | ||||||
2 |
Via Ferrata
Unos escalones de hierro conducen a una repisa y hay un ancla de perno doble arriba. A few iron steps leading to a ledge and there is a double bolt anchor above. | |||||||
3 |
Trad Routes
Es probable que algunas de las líneas ya fueran escaladas. Some of the lines were probably already trad climbed. | |||||||
4 |
Slab Topropes to the Balcony
Puede caminar dentro de la presa en varios pisos. Se recomienda faro. You can walk inside the dam over multiple floors. Headlamp recommended. | |||||||
5 | Slab Topropes to the Top |
1.8. Teseguite 14 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.059663, -13.507728
summary
Pequeña y bonita zona de búlder.
Little nice bouldering area.
approach
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lado Soleado / Sunny Side | ||||||||
2 | 1 | |||||||
3 | 2 | |||||||
4 | 3 | |||||||
5 | 4 | |||||||
6 | 5 | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | 6 | |||||||
Lado Sombrío / Shady Side | ||||||||
9 | S1 | |||||||
10 | ★★ S2 | |||||||
11 | Undercling and Slopers on Top | |||||||
12 | ★★ S4 | |||||||
13 | ★★ Straight Up Jugs | |||||||
14 | Kneebar Aid | |||||||
15 | S6 | |||||||
16 | S7 |
1.9. Black and White 9 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.057843, -13.500516
summary
Lugar de roca sombreada.
Shady boulder spot.
approach
Estacione en algún lugar aquí y camine 100m hacia el oeste hacia el barranco.
Park somewhere here and walk 100m west into the barranco.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | |||||||
2 | Scary Topout | |||||||
3 |
B1
Video. Video. Video 4:25. | |||||||
4 | 3 | |||||||
5 | ★★ B2 | |||||||
6 | Dab Fail | |||||||
7 | Low Traverse | |||||||
8 | B3 | |||||||
9 | B4 |
1.10. El Regalito 186 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.054350, -13.494008
summary
Peñón principal de búlder de Lanzarote.
Main bouldering crag of Lanzarote.
description
Description, photos and topos see UKC, 27crags, ilanzarote, canariasclimb. Video.
approach
Camine 200m al sur hasta la herradura principal o 200m al oeste hasta el túnel de escalada.
Walk 200m south to the Main Horseshoe or 200m west to the Climbing Tunnel.
1.10.1. Túnel de Escalada 22 routes in Artificial
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.055841, -13.496419
summary
Túnel con rejillas de plástico y tablero de campus.
Tunnel with plastic holds and campusboard.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lado Oeste / West Side | ||||||||
2 | West Traverse | |||||||
3 |
W1
The most left route close to the campusboard | 3 | ||||||
4 | Reines | 3 | ||||||
5 | Interquante | 4 | ||||||
6 | Zion | {FR} 6c+ | 3 | |||||
7 | Trasgu en el tranqueru | {FR} 7a+ | 4 | |||||
8 |
W6
grades written on the wall, looks overstated, please correct after climbing | {FR} 7b | 4 | |||||
9 | W7 | {FR} 7b+ | 4 | |||||
Lado Este / East Side | ||||||||
11 | East Traverse | |||||||
12 |
E1
the most left route | 3 | ||||||
13 | E2 | 4 | ||||||
14 | Siberia | {FR} 6b | 3 | |||||
15 | Fumanji | 2 | ||||||
16 | En Camino | 2 | ||||||
17 | Todos yonkis yo | 5 | ||||||
18 | Venas Migas | 4 | ||||||
19 | E8 | 3 | ||||||
20 | E9 | 3 | ||||||
21 | E10 | 3 | ||||||
22 | E11 | 3 | ||||||
23 | E12 | 4 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Parte Trasera / Back Side | ||||||||
25 | Little Traverse |
1.10.2. Herradura Grande 88 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.053812, -13.493810
description
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ La Flecha
#SD Block before left line. Video 4:46. | 5+ | ||||||
2 |
★★★ El de Norbe
Block before right line. Topo. | |||||||
3 |
Travesía a Tenerife
Left block lower traverse. | |||||||
4 |
Travesía de Romos
Left block upper traverse. | 6A | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Arafo
Left block left of right arete. | 4 | ||||||
6 |
★★★ Taganana
Left Block right arete. Topo. | 4 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | ★★ La Esquina | 3 | ||||||
8 |
★★ El Simple
#SD corner crack | 4 | ||||||
9 |
★★ Salida de Romos
undercut/pocket | 5 | ||||||
10 | El de Ralph | 6C - 7A | ||||||
11 |
Futurist
#SD layaway poor crimps crack | 7A+ | ||||||
12 |
★★ Malaguita / The Pink Panther
Video. Pocketed arete. | 4 | 5m | |||||
13 | ★★★ Malaguita SD | 5 | ||||||
14 |
★★ Easy Crack / Clamp the Hills
#SD The easy crack at the left hand end of the horseshoe without the left jugs. | 5 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★ El Techo / Face and Groove
The face to the right of the crack then the top groove. | 4 | ||||||
16 | ★★★ El Techo SD | 5+ | ||||||
17 | ★★ Apreta! Stand / Small Roof LHS | 5+ | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Apreta!
#SD Take the roof towards the left side then more or less direct to the top over the bulges. | 6A | ||||||
19 |
El Dinámico de Nene
#SD in crack, then left wall. | 6C | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Esta Mola! / Finger Corner
Takes the thin corner crack to the right of small roof. | 4 | 4m | |||||
21 | ★★ Esta Mola! SD | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Get to the Slab Bit | 5 | 5m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Mendochi / Wall Direct
The wall direct with a high step to start (without left of the left crack). Video. | 5+ | 5m | |||||
24 | Lovely SD | |||||||
25 | Lovely | 6A | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
26 |
★★★ Aldito / Overall
Start in crack, then go right. Over the overlaps from about 1m in from the small corner using small crimps. Avoid the big hold out left. | 7A+ | ||||||
27 |
★★★ Abdomineitor / Overlap / I Believe
#SD (or start higher), undercuts. Over the overlap left of the crack heading up to the round boulder on top of the crag. Video. | 6A | 5m | |||||
28 |
La Campana / Abdomineitor SD
#SD in the back. Video 5:20. | |||||||
29 |
★★ L'Oruga / Corner Crack
Takes the crack in the corner. | 5 | 5m | |||||
30 | ★★★ L'Oruga SD | 5+ | 5m | |||||
31 | La Quilla Asesina / Bulge | 7B | ||||||
32 |
★★ Coge el Bueno / Blank Nose
Takes the rather blank all and overlap just right if the obvious nose. | 6B/B+ | ||||||
33 | Coge el Bueno SD | 7B | ||||||
34 | ★★ Coge el Bueno Right | 5+ | 5m | |||||
35 | Soy Escalador | |||||||
36 |
★★ Cacuco / Layback Crack
The undercut crack past an awkward bulge. | 4 | 5m | |||||
37 | ★★ Cacuco SD | 4 | 5m | |||||
38 |
★★ Bloqueros Lagarteros / Blank Face
The center of the little face on fierce crimps. No cracks allowed. Picture. Pictures. | 7A+/B | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
39 | ★★★ La Aulaga | 6B | ||||||
40 |
★★★ El Genio / Crimpy Wall / Pockets Wall / Bouldery Start
The centre of the face on crimps. Hard to start then easier. Video. | 5+ | ||||||
41 | ★★★ El Genio SD | 6C | ||||||
42 | ★★★ Travesía El Genio | 6C+ | ||||||
43 | ★★ Travesía el Genio (por debajo) | 7A | ||||||
44 |
★★ Curving Crack / Fisurita Fácil
Follow the thin crack. | 5 | ||||||
45 | ★★★ Curving Crack SD | 6B | ||||||
46 |
★★ El Escaqueo / Mantlepiece Crack
The crack on the left of "Easy Mantle". | 5 | ||||||
47 | ★★★ El Escaqueo SD | 6A | ||||||
48 | ★★ Corner | 4 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
49 | ★ La Tumba / Easy Mantle | 5+ | ||||||
50 |
★★ Siniestro / Mental
A hard mantle up the center of the nose split by the horizontal crack. | 7A | ||||||
51 |
★★★ El Nicho / Mettle
#SD The right side of the split nose followed by a mantle. | 6C | ||||||
52 |
★★ La salida por el Tejado / Struggle
#SD Follow the crack over the overhang. | 6B | ||||||
53 |
★★ El Kilométrico / Swing
#SD Climb just right of the inverted triangle crack to the roof. Swing out and up slightly left. Video. Video. Video. | 6C+ | ||||||
54 |
Swinger
As for "Swing" to the free hang, then up to the right. | 7A | ||||||
55 |
★★★ Desperado / Matakán
Widest part of the roof at the shallow overhanging arete. | 7A+ | ||||||
56 | ★★ El Buzon / La Coruja | 6B+ | ||||||
57 |
Gran Travesia / La Medular del Cernícalo + Travesía del Nicho
Start up "Pimple" and traverse across left under the overhang then across to reach "Mantlepiece Crack". | 6B | ||||||
58 | Gatusso | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
59 |
★★★ El Seise / Pimple
The right side of the roof past the obvious small hold on the lip. Video. Video. | 6A | 4m | |||||
60 |
★★★ Undercut Wall
The undercut wall and groove on small holds. Video. | 6C | 5m | |||||
61 | ★★★ La Mano de Dios | 7A | ||||||
62 |
Sencillo
#SD left of big roof on undercling. Traverse right on crimps into second part of "Power Traversi" and topout. | 7B+ | ||||||
63 | ★★ Power Traversi Stand / Hop-Hop! | 5 | 3m | |||||
64 | Your Bike | |||||||
65 |
★★★ Power Traversi
#SD Obvious crimpy rail leading out of the deepest roof. Video. Video 8:20. Video. Pictures. | 7C | ||||||
66 |
★ Catalan Power
Climb into "Power Traversi" from the jug on the right hand side of the roof. Video first ascent. Video. FA: Jaume Garcia, 2016 | 7C+/8A | ||||||
67 |
Jet Stream
Climb directly out of the main roof, where "Power Traversi" goes leftwards. Finishing up a small vertical wall on crimps and topping out on the ledge straight up. Video first ascent. FA: James Squire, 2016 | 8A+/B | ||||||
68 |
★★ Xagerao! / Pillar
Climb the front face of the pillar. | 7A+ | 6m | |||||
69 |
★★★ Makelele / Great Escape
To the right of "Pillar". Start right in the back of the cave and follow the finger crack all the way to the top. Video. Video. Video 6:30. Pictures. Video. | 7B | 7m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
70 | ★★ NN5 | 5 | 4m | |||||
71 | ★★ Overlap Wall | 4 | 4m | |||||
72 |
★★ La Sonrisa / Nose LH
Hanging start. The next face has a prominent nose at the top. Hard to get going, then move left at the nose. | 5+ | 5m | |||||
73 | ★★★ Nose Direct Crack Start | 6A | ||||||
74 |
★★ Nose Direct
Hanging start. Climb the nose direct. | 5+ | 5m | |||||
75 |
★★ Apretando.com / Twin Arete / Nose RH
#SD Right of high Nose feature, low twin edges that join higher up. Video. | 5 | 5m | |||||
76 |
★★★ Curving Crack 2 SD
#SD in the back. Use jammed blocks in crack. | 5+ | 4m | |||||
77 | ★ The Bulge Stand | 4 | 4m | |||||
78 |
★★ The Bulge / The Ramp
#SD at break under roof in corner at the base of the crack. | 6B+/C | 4m | |||||
79 | ★★ NN2.5 | 5 | 4m | |||||
80 |
★★ Potencia Barbacoa
#SD in the back. Name and picture. | 5 | 4m | |||||
81 |
★★★ NN4
#SD Edges. | 7A | 4m | |||||
82 |
★★ NN6
#SD Edges. | 6C | 4m | |||||
83 | ★★ La Placa del Guache | 4 | 4m | |||||
84 |
★★ La Placa del Godo
Without right of the corner. | 4 | 4m | |||||
85 |
★ NN10 Wall
#SD Wall right of the crack. | 3 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
86 |
El Perinquen
Topo. | |||||||
87 | ★★ Caderon | 6B+ | ||||||
88 | ★★ Miguelito | 4 |
1.10.3. Calentamiento 13 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.053853, -13.493398
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Left Wall
Up the wall left of the corner. | 3 | 4m | |||||
2 |
Funambulo
sin manos / without hands | |||||||
3 | La Laja | 4m | ||||||
4 | ★ Calienta | 3 | 4m | |||||
5 |
★★ Central Crack
The vague crack passing to the left of the bulge. | 3 | 4m | |||||
6 |
★★ Agujeritos
Balancy moves up the wall to the right of the bulge. | 4 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★ Right Hand Wall
The easy vague crack line on the right. | 3 | 3m | |||||
8 | ★ Righty Wall | 3 | 3m | |||||
9 | ★ Most Righty Wall | 3 | 3m | |||||
10 |
★ Right Hand Wall Traverse
Traverse the Right Hand Wall from right to left. | 4 | 7m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | ★ R1 | 3 | 3m | |||||
12 | ★ R2 | 3 | 4m | |||||
13 | 3 |
1.10.4. Triangle and Egg 32 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.053754, -13.493555
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sector Imposible / Triangle | ||||||||
2 | ★★ Left Arete of the Triangle / Posible Izquierda | 6A | ||||||
3 | Casi Posible | |||||||
4 | La Imposible | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Right Arete / Posible Derecha | 5+ | ||||||
Sector El Titan / The Egg | ||||||||
7 |
★ El Titan / Scrambled
#SD Feet off the big block. Up the left bulge. Video 5:05. | 6A | ||||||
8 |
Travesia del Titan / Humpty
#SD Traverse the lip right to left and finish up "Scrambled". Feet off the block! Video 5:25. | 6C | ||||||
9 | El Anzuelo | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Sector Picadero / Boulder Bay | ||||||||
11 |
A tu Bola / Curved Arete
#SD Hard moves to gain the leftwards curving arete. | 6C | ||||||
12 |
★★ Pies libres / Soldier
Video. Standing start without using the boulder behind you. | 6B | ||||||
13 |
★★★ Pos Claro! / Blue
#SD A sitting start on the right of the boulder to join "Soldier". | 7A | ||||||
14 | El Puerton | |||||||
15 | ★★★ El de la Foto | 5 | ||||||
16 | Patri | |||||||
17 | La Esquina | |||||||
18 | Travesia Dieguito | |||||||
19 | ★★★ El Nublo Chico / Bisectriz | 6B | ||||||
20 | ★★★ El Nublo Chico SD / Bisectriz SD | 6C | ||||||
21 | Tiira! | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 | ★ Small Wall Left | 4B | ||||||
23 | El Picadero / Small Wall | 5A | ||||||
24 | Small Wall Right | 4B | ||||||
25 | ★★ Segundos Fuera / Diagonal | 5A | ||||||
26 |
After Shave / Nose Climb
(sin manos / without hands) | 4A | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Sector El Mostrador | ||||||||
28 |
★★★ Holly Diver / Bypass
Climb the right side of the end nose. | 3C | ||||||
29 |
★★ Left Arête
Left arête of boulder left of Stretch. Crimps and slopers. | 7A | ||||||
30 |
★★★ El Mostrador / Stretch
On the jugs on the right side of the boulder - make a long stretch for the top. | 5A | ||||||
31 |
★★★ Boro / Marked
Take the hanging arete from right to left. video | 6C | ||||||
32 | El Rule | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Sector CalentamientoTopo. | ||||||||
34 |
Al Filo
Topo. | |||||||
35 | ★★★ Como lo trinque Dany | |||||||
36 | La Palma | |||||||
37 | El Hechadero |
1.10.5. Tres Bloques 16 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.053649, -13.493205
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sector Lumbalgia | ||||||||
2 |
Sin Guantes
#SD Sin manos / without hands | |||||||
3 | El Anillo | |||||||
4 |
Lumbalgia
#SD obliga regleta | |||||||
5 | La Proa | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Bloque 1 | ||||||||
7 | 1 | |||||||
Sector La Popa | ||||||||
9 |
Fiate
Sin manos / without hands | |||||||
10 | El Planeta de los Simios | |||||||
11 | La Popa | |||||||
Sector Gulich | ||||||||
13 |
★ Accion direct
#SD dinamico / dynamic 6A/A+ sit start | 6A/A+ | ||||||
14 | ★ Patrick Wolfgang | 5 | ||||||
15 |
Accion indiret
#SD dinamico / dynamic | |||||||
More BouldersSee Topo. | ||||||||
17 | Travesia Resbalisa | |||||||
18 | Resbaliso | |||||||
19 | La Novia | |||||||
20 | El Novio | |||||||
21 | Long Way |
1.10.6. Tres Terrazas 10 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.053870, -13.492731
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sector Isotonico | ||||||||
2 | ★ Energy Drink | |||||||
3 | ★ Red Bull | |||||||
4 | La Abeja Maya | |||||||
5 | Caterpillar | |||||||
Terraza Media / Middle Terrace | ||||||||
7 | 1 | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 | 2 | |||||||
Terraza Derecha / Right Terrace | ||||||||
10 | 3 | |||||||
Sector TsunamiBelow the terraces, Topo. | ||||||||
12 | 90/90/21 | |||||||
13 | Chico Terremoto | |||||||
14 | Firma aqui, Olvidate de mi |
1.10.7. Dos Bloques 5 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.053035, -13.491627
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bloque 1 | ||||||||
2 | ★★★ A1 | 5+ | ||||||
3 | ★★★ A2 | 6A | ||||||
Bloque 2 | ||||||||
5 | B1 | |||||||
6 | B1.5 | |||||||
7 | B2 |
1.11. El Detallito 30 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.047075, -13.486590
summary
Más búlder barranco con una pequeña versión de "La herradura".
More barranco bouldering with a little version of "The Horseshoe".
approach
Conduzca aquí (29.048134, -13.490485) y estacione en algún lugar al costado.
Drive here (29.048134, -13.490485) and park somewhere at the side.
1.11.1. Pequeña Herradura 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.047014, -13.488308
approach
Desde el aparcamiento (al lado de la carretera) mirando al mar encontrarás un cauce del barranco. Adentrándote en el mismo llegarás a la zona de escalada.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lado Sombrío / Shady Side | ||||||||
2 |
★★ 1
Hay varias opciones para realizarla, por la izquierda un poco más fácil. Por la derecha un poco más dificil | 5B+ | ||||||
3 | 2 | |||||||
4 | Al pico | 6A+ | ||||||
5 | Abre y levanta | 5A+ | ||||||
6 | ★★ 3 | 5B | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 | 4 | |||||||
8 | ★★ 5 | 6A | ||||||
9 | -- | |||||||
10 | ★★★ 6 | 6C | ||||||
11 | 7 | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | 8 | |||||||
Lado Soleado / Sunny Side | ||||||||
14 | 9 | |||||||
15 | 10 | |||||||
16 | 11 | |||||||
17 | ★ Traspiés completo | 6C+ | ||||||
18 | ★★ El Traspiés | 6B | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 | 14 | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Bloque Cabeza de Tortuga | |||||||
Bloque Medio / Middle Block | ||||||||
22 | 16 | |||||||
23 | 17 |
1.11.2. Small Cave 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.046969, -13.487736
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | |||||||
2 | 2 | |||||||
3 | Bloque Pasando por el Aro | |||||||
4 | 4 | |||||||
5 | 5 |
1.11.3. Bloque 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.047363, -13.487459
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chalked |
1.11.4. Barras 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.046953, -13.485323
approach
Siguiendo el cauce del barranco encontrarás a la derecha este sector con múltiples vías.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | |||||||
2 | 2 | |||||||
3 | 3 | |||||||
4 | 4 |
1.12. Barranco Mulión 15 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.036743, -13.471214
summary
Pequeño cañón de canto rodado.
Little boulder canyon.
1.12.1. Horseshoe 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.037420, -13.473423
approach
Un buen camino de tierra conduce hasta aquí (29.039792, -13.484488). Luego camine o conduzca por un camino de tierra accidentado (auto o jeep normal imprudente) río abajo a lo largo del barranco.
A good dirt road leads up to here (29.039792, -13.484488). Then walk or drive a rough dirt road (reckless normal car or jeep) downstream along the barranco.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ 1 | 5A | ||||||
2 | ★ 2 | 4C | ||||||
3 | ★ 3 | 4C | ||||||
4 | 4 | 3 | ||||||
5 | 5 | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | 6 | |||||||
7 | 7 | |||||||
8 |
★★ 8
5A? | 5A | ||||||
9 | ★★ 9 | 5A | ||||||
10 | ★★ 10 | 5A | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | ★ 11 | |||||||
12 | 12 | |||||||
13 | ★★ 13 | 5A |
1.12.2. Ocean Rock 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.035910, -13.468747
approach
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wall | |||||||
2 | chalked |
1.13. Hang On Lanzarote Climbing Centre 18 routes in Gym
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.972477, -13.533848
summary
Avenida de Naos 51 Corner with Pedro Naveran, 35500, Arrecife
description
Pequeño gimnasio de escalada con 8 líneas deportivas de 3 tornillos y 2 paredes de búlder. El precio de la entrada es de 12 € (12/2021).
Little climbing gym with 8 3-bolt-sport lines and 2 bouldering walls. Entrance fee is 12€ (12/2021).
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | |||||||
2 | 2 | |||||||
3 | 3 | |||||||
4 | 4 | |||||||
5 | 5 | |||||||
6 | 6 | |||||||
7 | 7 | |||||||
8 | 8 | |||||||
9 | B1 | |||||||
10 | B2 | |||||||
11 | B3 | |||||||
12 | B4 | |||||||
13 | B5 | |||||||
14 | B6 | |||||||
15 | B7 | |||||||
16 | B8 | |||||||
17 | B9 | |||||||
18 | B10 | |||||||
|
1.14. La Pedrera 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.963593, -13.549612
summary
Pequeño risco urbano en roca natural con agarraderas de plástico adicionales. Escalada nocturna con focos posible.
Small urban crag at natural rock with additonal plastic holds. Nightclimbing with spotlights possible.
description
More information and pictures at ilanzarote, todoactividades an climbingaway. Video.
approach
Se puede aparcar directamente en el peñasco, pero como en todo el centro de Arrecife el problema es encontrar aparcamiento gratuito ...
You could park directly at the crag, but like everywhere in Central Arrecife the problem is to find a free parking lot...
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | 1 | ||||||
2 | 2 | 1 | ||||||
3 | 3 | 2 | ||||||
4 | 4 | 1 | ||||||
5 | 5 | 2 | ||||||
6 | 6 | 2 | ||||||
7 | 7 | 3 | ||||||
8 | 8 | 3 | ||||||
9 | 9 | 3 | ||||||
10 | 10 | 2 | ||||||
11 | 11 | 3 | ||||||
12 | 12 | 3 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 | 13 | |||||||
14 | 14 | 1 | ||||||
15 | 15 | 3 | ||||||
16 | 16 | 2 | ||||||
17 | 17 | 2 | ||||||
18 | 18 | 1 |
1.15. Puerto Calero 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.919464, -13.708599
summary
Un buen acantilado soleado para escalada deportiva y algunos puntos de búlder alrededor.
A good sunny sportclimbing seacliff and a few bouldering spots around.
1.15.1. Puerto Calero Seacliff 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.913365, -13.714501
description
Acantilado soleado directamente en el océano. Bien marcado con tiza, naturalmente un poco quebradizo, pero la mayoría de las rutas están bien limpiadas a través del tráfico.
Sunny cliff directly at the ocean. Well chalked, naturally a bit crumbly but most routes well cleaned through traffic.
approach
Conduzca por la entrada del estacionamiento de Secrets Lanzarote Resort. Camine 500 m al oeste (pasando el peñasco que no puede ver debajo de usted) hasta que un camino empinado conduce al mar. Trepa 200 m al este en la línea del océano (pasando 2 puntos de rocas) hasta el acantilado.
Drive by the Secrets Lanzarote Resort entrance to the parking. Walk 500m west (passing the crag you cannot see below you) until a steep path leads down to the sea. Scramble 200m back east at the ocean line (passing 2 boulder spots) to the cliff.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ 1
Old okayish bolts. | 5b | 9m, 7 | |||||
2 |
★★★ 2
Old okayish bolts. | 6a | 10m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ 3
Old okayish bolts. Video. | 6a+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ 4
NEW BOLTS. | 6c | 12m, 6 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Puerto Pijo
NEW BOLTS. | 6a+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★★ 6
NEW BOLTS. | 6a+ | 12m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★★ 7
NEW BOLTS. Video. | 5c+ | 13m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★ 8
Old okayish bolts. | 6b | 13m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★★ 9
Old okayish bolts. | 5c+ | 14m, 7 |
1.15.2. PC1 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.913008, -13.715915
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
chalked | |||||||
2 |
2
chalked | |||||||
3 |
3
obvious arete |
1.15.3. PC2 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.913246, -13.715065
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
chalked easy wall | |||||||
2 |
2
hard cave boulder |
1.15.4. PC3 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.923582, -13.717289
approach
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1 chalked
Warning Rock: Half the holds loose of snapped off | |||||||
2 | 2 | |||||||
3 | 3 Wall |
1.15.5. PC4 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Sin Semillas
¿Localización? (Debajo del paseo del pueblo hay un buen potencial de búlder, pero no éste). Location? (Below the village promenade is good bouldering potential, but not this one.) FA: Jaume Garcia, 2016 | 7A |
1.16. Playa Quemada 2 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.905370, -13.734041
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | |||||
2 | 2 |
1.17. Playa Blanca 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.857345, -13.825527
summary
Varios lugares de rocas a lo largo de la costa sur con diferentes calidades de roca, aterrizaje y altura, pero hermosas vistas a Fuerteventura.
Various boulder spots along the south coast with varying rock quality, landing and height, but beatutiful views to Fuerteventura.
description
Hay rocas por todas partes, que se van agrandando hacia el oeste y conducen a los Acantilados de Las Maretas. Mucho potencial para el búlder, pocos están documentados. Si desarrolla cosas nuevas, documente aquí
There is rock everywhere, getting bigger towards the west leading to the Las Maretas Seaciffs. Lots of potential for bouldering, few is documented. If you develop new stuff, please document here
1.17.1. Faro de Pechiguera 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.865990, -13.876076
description
Featured here as the "best boulder spot on the island". Compared to El Regalito that is overstated.
"Close to Playa Blanca’s lighthouse is the best boulder spot on the island but also the most dangerous one too. Here you’ll find all kinds of boulders – from super easy to impossible and outright suicidal. This spot is the real Boulder Paradise – go and check it out! Just be sure to evaluate the risk of each boulder properly, cause some are just to dangerous to do. Mind the tide here, since it can trap you while bouldering. If you have a boat and enough safety precautions, some of those boulders scream for a deep-water solo. How to get there? This spot is very accessable. Just park your car at the end of the Calle Irlanda and walk to the sea. From here up to the abandoned Hotel you have miles (seriously!) and miles of boulder problems." (Dr. S.)
approach
150m west: (28.865691, -13.876191)
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 |
1.17.2. Avenida Maritima Boulders 7 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.861242, -13.849606
summary
Mancha muy pequeña con cantos rodados cortos en roca mediocre.
Very minor spot with short boulders in mediocre rock.
description
Topo and description and in pdf by developer John Hunt: "A small rock wall just below the coastal promenade. West of Playa Blanca. The neo-Moorish turrets of Hotel Timanfaya Playa are are good landmark - pass these and stop near the second shelter thing with the open roof. The Hipotels Natura Garden Apartments are behind this. There is a walkway down to the beach. Mostly solid but watch out for loose stuff. There are some impressive cliffs further west but they’d want a rope or a big team with pads."
UKC just repeats the pdf.
The grades in the topo are probably FR route grades, here the Fonainebleau bouldering system is used.
approach
Desde Playa Blanca, camine por el paseo marítimo hasta que las escaleras conduzcan hasta aquí (: mount_fuji:28.861212, -13.849650).
From Playa Blanca walk along the promenade until stairs lead down here (28.861212, -13.849650).
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Left End
#SD The left edge of the left lump. The crack in the middle is in. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 2 | 3m | |||||
2 |
Undercarriage
#SD The left lump. Mostly on jugs once over the lip. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 4B | 3m | |||||
3 |
Hanging Judge
#SD The central pillar avoiding the underlining block. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 3 | 3m | |||||
4 |
Middle
#SD The open corner using everything. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 3 | 3m | |||||
5 |
First Elim
#SD The right edge of the open corner. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 4B | 3m | |||||
6 |
Juggy-Slabby
#SD Easy. Anywhere up the juggy/slabby wall. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 1 | 3m | |||||
7 | Impressive cliffs further west (rope/pads) |
1.17.3. Playa Flamingo 5 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.858861, -13.844535
summary
Mire abajo en una pequeña bahía debajo del Timanfaya Playa Hotel.
Spot in a little bay beneath the Timanfaya Playa Hotel.
description
Playa Flamingo Bouldering in general featured by Dr. S. here.
Topo and description by developer James Hunt: "There is loads of rock here – much of it too high for bouldering or a bit too public. The cliff with the pill-box atop it marks the eastern end of this area. These three are in a little bay beneath the Timanfaya Playa Hotel. Jump the wall and scramble down. Lots more to do around." The grades in the topo are probably FR route grades and still overrated, here the Fonainebleau bouldering system is used.
UKC just repeats the pdf.
Kyrill Sharikov added the best line.
approach
Desde Playa Blanca camine alang por el paseo marítimo. Luego salta la pared y desciende hasta el lugar (: mount_fuji:28.858870, -13.844580).
From Playa Blanca walk alang the beach promenade. Then jump the wall and scramble down to the spot (28.858870, -13.844580).
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Recovering and Traversing
FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 5A | 5m | |||||
2 |
Now You Know
#SD HVS/E1 Pull into the groove/cave and then out high to escape it. Highball. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 4C | 4m | |||||
3 |
★ Roulette
#SD The lower wall right of the groove/ cave. Still feels committing. | 4B | 3m | |||||
4 |
★★ Kirills Boulder
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Nov 2020 | 5A | 3m | |||||
5 | Lots more to do around |
1.17.4. The Black Beach 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.855020, -13.795601
description
Featured here with photos, no topos: "Also located in the Los Ajaches Natural Park is on of the most amazing boulder spots of the island. It’ll well hidden and you have to be adventurous to get there, since there’s no real way to the spot itself. Getting there also involves some climbing (2-4m depends…) or a boat. Unfortunately it’s only accessible when the tide is low. While there, be sure to keep an eye on the tide. That said, I really recommend going there, since it’s a great spot with all kinds of boulders and an amazing view over to Fuerteventura.
How to get there? If you are walking from the Hotel Sandos Papagayo Beach Resort in Playa Blanca towards the Papagayo Beaches, the spot is half way. Just walk towards the water and you should find it. It takes some time to get there…"
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
Look from above. Downclimb required. Low tide recommended. |
1.17.5. Playa Mujeres 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.851541, -13.791813
description
Featured here as Papagayo Beach, but photos are from the south end of Playa Mujeres: "In the south of Lanzarote you’ll find the Los Ajaches Natural Park with one of it’s many beaches. Most boulders here are entry level with a marvellous view. Be sure to respect nature since this is a natural park.
How to get there? If you are in Playa Blanca, you can’t miss the Papagayo Beaches. There are signs everywhere. There’s even something like a road that goes to the beaches or you can walk there. It’s quiet a bit to walk but it’s worth it."
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 |
1.17.6. Playa Caleton del Cobre 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.851092, -13.791649
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
No Shirt, no Shoes
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Sep 2021 |
1.17.7. Best Solid Rock 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.841889, -13.788081
description
10m slab for bouldering or trad, good solid rock! Lot of people...
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Boulders | |||||||
2 | or trad | 10m |
1.17.8. Psicobloc 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: 28.840104, -13.787719
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
Photo, comments say Papagayo. Here too. There are also the highest cliffs of the beaches southeast of Playa Blanca. I couldn't identify it from above. |
1.17.9. Playa Caleta del Congrio 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.843033, -13.783462
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
No Topout
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Apr 2021 | |||||||
|
1.18. Atlante del Sol 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.893710, -13.869792
description
Acantilados alrededor de las ruinas del antiguo hotel 'Atlante del Sol'. ¡El acantilado principal tiene las rutas más altas del oeste de Lanzarote!
Seacliffs around the old hotel ruin 'Atlante del Sol'. The main cliff has the highest routes in west Lanzarote! Crag name also mentioned here.
approach
Conduzca por el camino de tierra hasta las ruinas del hotel 'Atlante del Sol' y estacione allí. Camine hacia los sectores, vea la descripción allí.
Drive the dirt road to the hotel ruin 'Atlante del Sol' and park there. Walk to the sectors, see description there.
1.18.1. Sector 1 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.894251, -13.866464
description
5 rutas deportivas en otro acantilado.
5 sport routes on another seacliff.
approach
Conduzca por el camino de tierra hasta las ruinas del hotel 'Atlante del Sol' y estacione allí. Camine 400 m hacia el este a lo largo de la línea del acantilado hasta el risco donde podrá bajar fácilmente por el lado oeste.
Drive the dirt road to the hotel ruin 'Atlante del Sol' and park there. Walk 400m east along the cliff line to the crag where you can easily scramble down on the west side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
NEW BOLTS | 3 | ||||||
2 |
2
NEW BOLTS | 4 | ||||||
3 |
3
NEW BOLTS | 3 | ||||||
4 |
4
NEW BOLTS | 2 | ||||||
5 |
5
NEW BOLTS | 3 |
1.18.2. Sector 2 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.893338, -13.871961
description
Otro acantilado, acantilado largo con mucho potencial para rutas cortas. Cueva en el extremo oeste, hay 1 perno viejo y ancla en el lado derecho.
Another seacliff, long cliff with a lot potential for short routes. Cave on the west end, there 1 old bolt and anchor on the right side.
approach
Conduzca por el camino de tierra hasta las ruinas del hotel 'Atlante del Sol' y estacione allí. Camine 20 m hacia el noreste a lo largo de la línea del acantilado hasta el risco donde podrá bajar por el lado este.
Drive the dirt road to the hotel ruin 'Atlante del Sol' and park there. Walk 200m northeast along the cliff line to the crag where you can scramble down on the east side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Proyecto? | 1 |
1.18.3. Main Sector 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 28.893212, -13.873317
description
Acantilado de alta orientación oeste directamente debajo de las ruinas del hotel.
High west facing seacliff directly below the hotel ruin.
approach
Conduzca por el camino de tierra hasta las ruinas del hotel 'Atlante del Sol' y estacione allí. Directamente al norte de la ruina puedes trepar hasta el peñasco del norte.
Drive the dirt road to the hotel ruin 'Atlante del Sol' and park there. Directly north of the ruin you can scramble down to the crag to the north.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
old anchor | |||||||
2 |
2
old anchor | |||||||
3 |
3
Warning Fixed Gear: Bolt broke! old okayish bolts? | 7 | ||||||
4 |
4
NEW BOLTS | 7 | ||||||
5 |
5
NEW BOLTS | 8 |
1.19. Las Maretas Seacliffs 62 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.906206, -13.853432
description
Los acantilados de Las Maretas (junto con el Monte Corona Lavatube) tienen las mejores subidas atornilladas de la isla. Cuando el mar está en calma (no tan a menudo), esta sección de la costa tiene grandes piscinas naturales que quedan durante la marea baja. Los acantilados marinos tienen muy buena escalada y bien merecen una visita.
"Las Maretas seacliffs (along with the Monte Corona Lavatube) have the best bolted climbs on the island. When the sea is calm (not that often), this section of coast has some great swimming in natural pools left at low tide. The seacliffs have some very good climbing and are well worth a visit." (source: UKC with description and photo topos)
access issues
In 2017 the Spanish Federacion for Mountaineering and Climbing carried out tests on both new and old bolts of various materials in this zone due to fears of Stress Corrosion Cracking and some near death experiences of bolts failing under less than body weight. Please consider this area as closed due to the extreme risk of breaking bolts even if shiny and marked as "new bolts".
approach
(:parking28.910729, -13.848962)
Conduce hasta este edificio. Podrías aparcar allí y caminar 1,5 km hacia el sur a lo largo de la línea del acantilado. O conduzca el camino de tierra / pistas (a partir de estas coordenadas, el segundo comienzo más cerca de la costa es malo) más al sur hasta el estacionamiento. El control por mapa satelital ayuda a encontrar las pistas. El camino es bastante accidentado, pero aún es posible con automóviles normales, por lo que depende de su actitud hacia su automóvil. Desde el estacionamiento, camine hacia el sur y trepe o descienda en rappel hasta los sectores, vea las coordenadas y descripciones allí.
Drive to this building. You could park there and walk 1.5km south along the cliff line. Or drive the dirt road / tracks (starting from this coordinates, the second start at closer to the coast is bad) further south to the parking. Control per satellite map helps to find the tracks. The road is quite rough, but still possible with normal cars, so it depends on your attitude towards your car. From the parking walk south and scramble or abseil to the sectors, see coordinates and descriptions there.
1.19.1. Sector 1 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.910137, -13.850342
description
Pequeña cueva con 6 rutas antiguas y una nueva Vía Ferrata a la derecha.
Little cave with 6 old routes and a new Via Ferrata to the right.
approach
Camine hacia abajo desde el lado norte.
Walk down from the north side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
old bolts, left routes okayish? | |||||||
2 |
2
old bolts | |||||||
3 |
3
old bolts | |||||||
4 |
4
old bolts | |||||||
5 |
5
old bolts | |||||||
6 |
6
old bolts, right routes totally rusted | |||||||
7 |
Via Ferrata
TORNILLOS NUEVOS, 4 peldaños de hierro y 3 tornillos a la derecha. NEW BOLTS, 4 iron steps und 3 bolts traversing right. |
1.19.2. Temprano Quizor 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.908837, -13.850712
description
El primer sector al que se llega viniendo desde el norte es Temprano Quizar, que lleva el nombre del joven cuyo memorial está en lo alto. El peñasco está ubicado en una bahía que en gran parte no tiene mareas. La roca gris es empinada y sólida y está bien atornillada con adhesivos de acero inoxidable, las rutas tienen hasta 20m de altura.
"The first sector you reach when coming from the north is Temprano Quizar, named after the young man whose memorial is at the top. The crag is located in a bay which is largely none tidal. The grey rock is steep and solid and is well bolted with stainless glue-ins, the routes are up to 20m high." (source UKC)
approach
Fácil descenso desde el lado sur.
Easy scramble down from the south side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Far Left Route
NEW BOLTS | 9 | ||||||
2 |
Left Route 0
NEW BOLTS | 10 | ||||||
3 |
★ Left Route 1
NEW BOLTS. Video rebolting. | 7a+/b | 12 | |||||
4 |
★ Left Route 2
NEW BOLTS | 6c | 8 | |||||
5 |
★★ Left Route 3
NEW BOLTS. The lower bulge is a bit harder than "Left Route 4" and the upper wall has less of a resting place. Both these two routes are very good, but can be a bit sandy if they haven't been done for a while (it washes down from the top). It may be necessary to ascend them, give the holds a brush and then go for the redpoint. Video 6b. | 6b - c+ | 7 | |||||
6 |
★★ Left Route 4
NEW BOLTS. Start by a corner and use a one finger pocket to gain the break and first bolt. Pull through the roof and struggle to get established on the wall. Follow the unhelpful cracks to a good rest below the final bulge and belay. Can be a bit sandy. Video. | 6c | 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Cave Route Left
NEW BOLTS | 8a | 9 | |||||
8 |
★★ Cave Route Centre
NEW BOLTS | 8a+/b | 12 | |||||
9 |
★★ Cave Route Right 1
NEW BOLTS | 7c | 9 | |||||
10 |
★ Cave Route Right 2
NEW BOLTS | 7b+ | 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Cave Route Right 3
NEW BOLTS. A very good route which climbs the steep lower wall to the right of the main cave, tackles the crack through the roof with a difficult pull onto the short headwall. | 7b | 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ Centre Route 1
NEW BOLTS | 6c+ | 20m, 8 | |||||
13 |
★★ Centre Route 2
NEW BOLTS. Climb the pillar to the first roof. pull through this and cross the second roof to gain a standing position in the corner. | 6c | 20m, 7 | |||||
14 |
★★ Right Route 1
NEW BOLTS. With heavy waves and wind the right routes can become spraywater wet. | 6c | 13m, 7 | |||||
15 |
★★ Right Route 2
NEW BOLTS. Tricky start then good holds to a steep finish. | 6a | 12m, 7 | |||||
16 |
★ Right Route 3
NEW BOLTS. Climb easily to an alcove, clip the bolts on the wall to the left but climb the groove to the right to gain good holds and step easily to the belay. | 6a+ | 12m, 6 |
1.19.3. Amphitheatre 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.907171, -13.851460
description
Otro sector de acantilado con grandes rutas largas, en parte con nuevos tornillos pegados y también viejos tornillos oxidados. Con fuerte oleaje y viento todo el sector se puede mojar con agua pulverizada.
Another seacliff sector with long great routes, partly with new glued bolts and old rusty bolts as well. With strong waves and wind the whole sector can be spraywater wet.
approach
Fácil descenso desde el lado sur.
Easy scramble down from the south side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
NEW BOLTS | 6 | ||||||
2 |
2
NEW BOLTS | 5 | ||||||
3 |
3
new anchor placed, no bolts 11/2021 | |||||||
4 |
4
old bolts | 7 | ||||||
5 |
5
NEW BOLTS | 8 | ||||||
6 |
6
NEW BOLTS | 11 | ||||||
7 |
7
Due for rebolting, last 4 bolts and anchor already replaced. | 12 | ||||||
8 |
8
Due for rebolting, bolts already partly removed. |
1.19.4. Sector 4 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.905190, -13.854006
description
Sector con mucho potencial. Hay una cueva enorme a la derecha. Hasta ahora solo está atornillada 1 ruta.
Sector with a lot of potential. There is a huge cave to the right. Until now only 1 route is bolted.
approach
Fácil descenso desde el lado norte.
Easy scramble down from the north side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
NEW BOLTS | 4 | ||||||
2 | cave |
1.19.5. Original Walls 29 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 28.902338, -13.855937
description
Sector principal en roca gris de calidad!
Main sector on quality grey rock!
approach
Baje fácilmente por un impresionante arco doble sin tornillos y camine hacia el sur hasta el risco. O hacer rappel por la "5 Rappel Route" en el medio del sector izquierdo desde un obvio anclaje de doble anillo grande.
Easy scramble down over an impressive unbolted double arch and walk south to the crag. Or rappel down "5 Rappel Route" in the middle of the left sector from an obvious large double ring anchor.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sector Izquierdo / Left Sector | ||||||||
2 |
1
old bolts | 6 | ||||||
3 |
2
old bolts | 5 | ||||||
4 |
3
NEW BOLTS | 5 | ||||||
5 |
4
NEW BOLTS | 7 | ||||||
6 |
★ La Estética Carluca / 5 Rappel Route
NEW BOLTS. Photo and name in blog. | 9 | ||||||
7 |
6
NEW BOLTS | 6 | ||||||
8 | Proyecto | 8a+ | 6 | |||||
9 | 8 | 5 | ||||||
10 |
9
NEW BOLTS | 6 | ||||||
11 |
10
old bolts | 2 | ||||||
12 |
11
lonely old bolt? | 1 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Sector Principal / Main Sector | ||||||||
14 |
W1
NEW BOLTS. 5? | 5b | 8 | |||||
15 |
W2
old okayish bolts? | 5 | ||||||
16 | W2.5 Trad Corner | |||||||
17 |
W3 Left
NEW BOLTS | 7 | ||||||
18 |
★★ W3 Right
NEW BOLTS. 6b+? (UKC estimate) | 6b+ | 7 | |||||
19 |
★★ W4
NEW BOLTS. 6b+? (UKC estimate) | 6b+ | 5 | |||||
20 |
★★ W5
NEW BOLTS. 6b+? (UKC estimate) | 6b+ | 6 | |||||
21 |
★ W6
NEW BOLTS. Still a bit crumbly in the easy lower part, needs traffic. Crimpy crux at the upper arete well cleaned. | 7a | 13m, 5 | |||||
22 |
★ W7 Left of Lulu
NEW BOLTS. Still crumbly, needs traffic. In the upper part keep separately right of the left route, just clip their bolts. | 6b+ | 13m, 7 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Lulu
NEW BOLTS. A very good wall climb using the friendly cracks and wall. Video. | 6a+ | 16m, 8 | |||||
24 |
★★★ W9 Corner Wall
NEW BOLTS. Climb the easier lower wall and then the demanding nice wall left of the corner. | 6b | 13m, 7 | |||||
25 |
★★ W9.5 First Corner
NEW BOLTS. After the start wall keep climbing the corner with 1 more bolt (clipping the bolts of the left "W9 Corner Wall" possible). | 5a | 13m, 5 | |||||
26 |
★★★ W10
NEW BOLTS | 5c | 14m, 7 | |||||
27 |
★ Capoeira / Carmita
NEW BOLTS. High 1st bolt, but easy, trad gear placements possible. Name Capoeira. Video 1:23. | 4c | 14m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Rutas Derechas / Right Routes | ||||||||
29 |
★★★ Jala-Jala
NEW BOLTS. Video. | 7b | 8 | |||||
30 | ★ J1 | 5 | ||||||
31 |
J2
NEW BOLTS | 10 | ||||||
32 |
C1
Old bolts. 100m to the right. | 9 |
1.20. Collado de Cho Castro 10 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 28.924236, -13.833418
summary
Mancha menor, antigua cantera con cantos rodados cortos en roca mediocre.
Minor spot, old quarry with short boulders in mediocre rock.
description
Topo and description and in pdf by developer John Hunt: "A wild area between the Janubio salt pans and the obvious square orange building (a desalination plant). Some sharp rock but good landings and a solid top. There is endless potential here. Parking at the southern end of the Janubio reserve and walking the coastal tracks seems the best way in. Approached from the north, the wall described is a more natural sector just after an extensive quarried bit that would yield many problems but the sloping and rubbley landings make it less attractive (‘Black gold’ was the first response)."
UKC just repeats the pdf.
The grades in the topo are probably FR route grades and still overrated, here the Fonainebleau bouldering system is used.
approach
(28.923133, -13.834573) en el edificio o 100 m más al norte el camino de tierra (callejón sin salida). Camine hacia el norte durante 150m hasta que vea el pequeño acantilado a la derecha (28.924250, -13.833470).
(28.923133, -13.834573) at the building or 100m further north the dirt road (dead end). Walk north for 150m until you see the little cliff to the right (28.924250, -13.833470).
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Asimientos Increíble
#SD Something of a lunge from the lower holds to the higher jugs. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 4B | 3m | |||||
2 |
Jarras Locas
#SD More big, strange stuff. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 3 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Reanimar
#SD Climb to the big ledge and up. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
El Director
#SD Crimp up to the razor-sharp hole and up. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 5A | 3m | |||||
5 |
Edición del Director
#SD Crimp again but miss out the hole (use the small crimp next to it). 5C/6A? FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 5C - 6A | 3m | |||||
6 |
Primero Ve
#SD The front of the wall off the main crimp but with the big hold on the right. The crack is out. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 4C | 3m | |||||
7 |
Pared Hueca
#SD As above, but the crack is in. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 4B | 3m | |||||
8 |
Mojo
The wall with the big hole. Brilliant. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 3 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★ Mojo SD
#SD Same again but from a sitter. FA: John Hunt, Apr 2018 | 4B | 3m | |||||
10 | more bouldering in the quarry further north |
1.21. Las Bombas 19 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.004354, -13.678648
summary
Boulder en la bomba volcánica más grande del mundo y otras bombas alrededor.
Bouldering at the largest volcanic bomb in the world and other bombs around.
approach
Siga la ruta turística alrededor de Caldera Colorada.
Follow the tourist path around Caldera Colorada.
1.21.1. Bomba 1 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.006294, -13.682605
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Proyecto |
1.21.2. Bomba 2 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.004040, -13.681280
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Wall | 2 | ||||||
2 | Proyecto |
1.21.3. Bomba 3 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.003409, -13.679681
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Proyecto 1 | |||||||
2 | ★★ Dream | 4B | ||||||
3 | ★ Arete | 2 | ||||||
4 | Proyecto 2 |
1.21.4. Bomba 4 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.003252, -13.677555
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Wall | 3 |
1.21.5. LA Bomba Volcanica Gigantesca 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.003715, -13.676155
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Supercrack | 4B | ||||||
2 |
★★ Proyecto
#SD Crashpad necessary. | |||||||
3 | ★★ Left Crack | 4A | ||||||
4 | ★★★ Middle Crack | 3 | ||||||
5 | ★★ Right Crack | 4A | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★★★ Arete | 4A | ||||||
7 | ★★ Last Crack | 4C |
1.21.6. Bomba 6 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.004358, -13.674737
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Crackarete | 4A | ||||||
2 | Crackpot | 3 | ||||||
3 | Arete | 3 |
1.21.7. Bomba 7 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 29.005461, -13.675560
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Bomb Traverse | 5A |
1.22. Tinajo Area 40 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.086107, -13.699777
summary
Varias manchas de rocas alrededor de Tinajo con diferentes calidades de roca desarrolladas principalmente por Kyrill Sharikov.
Various boulder spots around Tinajo with varying rock quality mostly developed by Kyrill Sharikov.
description
Hay rocas por todas partes. Mucho potencial para el búlder, pocos están documentados. Si desarrolla cosas nuevas, documente aquí;)
There is rock everywhere. Lots of potential for bouldering, few is documented. If you develop new stuff, please document here
1.22.1. Playa de las Malvas 10 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.063308, -13.766327
summary
Pequeño lugar de roca en una hermosa playa remota.
Little boulder spot on a beautiful remote beach.
description
La roca necesita tráfico y todavía está un poco desmoronada. Por ahora, solo se documentan las líneas marcadas con tiza. Más potencial de búlder alrededor.
The rock needs traffic and is still a bit crumbly. By now only the chalked lines are documented. More bouldering potential around.
approach
Estacione directamente sobre la pequeña herradura y camine hacia abajo.
Park directly above the little horseshoe and walk down.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
Further left. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Mar 2021 | 4m | ||||||
2 |
★ Low hanging Fruit
Good rock over sand, best to climb on low tide as it is close to the ocean. Topo. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jun 2020 | 6A | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★ Tan Line
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jun 2021 | 4B | 3m | |||||
4 |
★★ Hedgehogs Dream
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Mar 2021 | 6C | 4m | |||||
5 |
★ Straight Forward
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jun 2021 | 4B | 3m | |||||
6 |
Pequenos Hurtos
FA: Jaume Garcia, 2016 | 7B | ||||||
7 |
★ Stinky Oyster
Not tide dependent. Sunny only early in the morning for a couple of hours, in the shade rest of the time. Rock quality good (lava). Mostly over deep sand, tops out over some rocks (about 5m off the ground). Topo. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Feb 2021 | 6A | 5m | |||||
8 |
★ Rover Cam
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jun 2021 | 5A | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ Traverse coz you can
Lava rock, good holds, always in the shade, not tide dependent, close to parking. Topo. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Feb 2021 | 4C | 4m | |||||
10 |
Straight up
Lava rock, good holds, crimps and slopers, easy to top out, always in the shade, not tide dependent.Topo. FA: Kirill Sharikov, 2021 | 5A - C | 3m |
1.22.2. Caleta del Mariscadero 6 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.065510, -13.763780
summary
Hermoso lugar de búlder en la playa.
Beautiful beach bouldering spot.
description
Mucho potencial alrededor. La mayoría necesita olas bajas y sin viento, de lo contrario el viento de agua pulverizada hace que todo se moje ...
Lots of potential around. Most need low waves and no wind, otherwise the spraywater wind makes everything wet...
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Soggy Slab
#SD Tide dependent, low grip, over sand, slab with a overhang start. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Feb 2021 | 6A | 5m | |||||
2 |
Slippy Slopers
Tide dependent, over sand, low grip. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Feb 2021 | 6A | 4m | |||||
3 |
What is Grip?
Smooth rock, low grip, tide dependent, over sand. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, 2021 | 5C | 5m | |||||
4 |
How low can You go?
#SD Smooth rock, low grip, tide dependent. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, 2021 | 5C | 5m | |||||
5 |
Fear of Heights
Smooth rock, low grip, over sand. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Feb 2021 | 5C | 6m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
No Fall Zone
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Aug 2021 | 6m |
1.22.3. Tenesar 10 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.083598, -13.721577
summary
Lugar fresco y sombreado de rocas con paredes altas que sobresalen.
Cool shady boulder spot with overhanging high walls.
description
Cuidado con las condiciones, con olas y viento, el viento de agua pulverizada puede hacer que todo se humedezca aunque esté bastante lejos del océano.
Take care with conditions, with waves and wind, the spraywater wind can make everything damp eventhough it is quite far away from the ocean.
approach
Estacione justo encima de la carretera y camine hasta las paredes.
Park right above at the road an walk down to the walls.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Low Tide
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jul 2021 | 5m | ||||||
2 |
2
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jul 2021 | 5m | ||||||
3 |
Easy Slab
Lava rock, slab, over rounded pebles. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, May 2021 | 6A | 6m | |||||
4 |
★ Soggy
Lava rock, most of the time soggy, always in the shade, overhung over round pebbles. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Dec 2020 | 6A+ | 6m | |||||
5 |
Cut loose 2
FA: Kirill Sharikov, May 2021 | 6m | ||||||
6 |
★ Shady
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Dec 2020 | 6A | 6m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
Left Lane
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Apr 2021 | 4m | ||||||
8 |
Cut loose / Skipping the Jug
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Apr 2021 | 4m | ||||||
9 |
★ Heel over Hand
#SD Lava rock, always in the shade, over rounded pebbles. Video. FA: Kirill Sharikov, Dec 2020 | 6A | 4m | |||||
10 |
Crimp Direct
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jul 2021 | 4m |
1.22.4. Playa Teneza 2 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.081078, -13.715334
summary
Algunos cantos rodados en la playa, mucho potencial.
Some boulders at the beach, lots of potential.
approach
Estacione en el océano o arriba en el pueblo y camine 50 m hacia el este hasta la playa.
Park at the ocean or above in the village and walk 50m east to the beach.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lado Este / East EndWith waves and wind the spraywater wind can make everything wet. | ||||||||
2 |
1
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Oct 2020 | 3m | ||||||
Lado Oeste / West Ende | ||||||||
4 |
2
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Apr 2021 | 4m |
1.22.5. Wet Blob 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.090861, -13.700233
description
Volcanic Lava rock can be a bit sharp, but not too bad here. Rock is wet most of the time...
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Wet Blob
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Feb 2021 | 3m |
1.22.6. Montana Bermeja 4 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 29.095976, -13.681918
summary
Pequeño cañón de búlder y acantilado con mucho búlder y potencial de ruta.
Little bouldering canyon and seacliff with lots of bouldering and route potential.
approach
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ 1
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Nov 2020 | 5m | ||||||
2 |
★ 2
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Oct 2021 | 5m | ||||||
3 |
Seacliff with good rock to the east
more bouldering potential | |||||||
4 | and route potential |
1.22.7. La Santa 1 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.106332, -13.671547
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ 1
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Oct 2020 | 4m |
1.22.8. La Santa 2 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.108168, -13.668402
description
Best way to get there: Standing in La Santa village beach looking at the sea, continue left, following the coast, this will be the first small crag in your way. Best time to climb is mid day as the rock is dry, it is always in the shadow, but in the evening gets wet and really hard to climb.
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Sep 2020 | 4m |
1.22.9. Club La Santa 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.121889, -13.651693
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
CLS
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Oct 2021 | 3m |
1.22.10. Tinajo 1 2 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.067354, -13.678526
summary
Mancha de roca en el lado este de la montaña Tinajo.
Boulder spot on the east side of Tinajo mountain.
approach
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Jan 2021 | 4m | ||||||
2 |
2
FA: Kirill Sharikov, Mar 2021 | 3m |
1.22.11. Tinajo 2 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 29.069876, -13.680294
description
Mancha de roca menor en el lado norte de la montaña Tinajo.
Minor boulder spot on the north side of Tinajo mountain.
approach
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
1
FA: Kirill Sharikov, May 2021 | 4m | ||||
2 |
2
FA: Kirill Sharikov, 2021 |
1.23. Pared de Famara 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 29.107740, -13.529056
description
Acantilado en lo alto de Famara, debajo de la Ermita de las Nieves. Destacado en este blog.
Cliff high above Famara, below the Ermita de las Nieves. Featured in this blog.
"Pared de Famara" and "Via falsa de Famara" mentioned here. And "Risco de Famara" mentioned here.
approach
Aparcar en el mirador y seguir el sendero que baja hasta Famara. En lugar de bajar hasta el coche, parece que puede continuar a la misma altura hasta la base del peñasco. Alternativamente, puede acercarse desde Famara, se han visto escaladores bajando la pendiente.
Park at the mirador and start the hiking path down to Famara. Instead of winding down to the car it looks like you can contininue at the same height to the base of the crag. Alternatively you maybe can approach from Famara, climbers have been seen coming down the slope. Or abseil down?
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sector SuicidaVea blog y fotos aquí. El triste nombre se debe a los al menos 3 accidentes automovilísticos en las pistas ... See blog and photos here. The sad name is because of the at least 3 car wrecks down at the slopes... | ||||||||
2 |
Testiculina
trad or sport? FA: J. C. Martinez | |||||||
3 |
El Mejillon Amarillo
trad or sport? | |||||||
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1.24. Risco de Famara 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.162589, -13.511295
summary
Escalada en varios largos en el largo acantilado desde Famara hasta el extremo norte de Lanzarote.
Multipitch climbing on the long Cliff from Famara to the north end of Lanzarote.
description
La parte más antigua de Lanzarote se encuentra en el norte de la isla. Lleva el nombre del pueblo y la playa de Famara, ubicada en Bahía de Penedo, la bahía, que se distingue claramente al oeste de la península. La característica más importante es el Risco de Famara, un enorme acantilado de unos 15 km de longitud y una altura de hasta 672 m. El punto más alto de Lanzarote, Peñas del Chache, es también el punto más alto de este acantilado. Si bien es fácilmente accesible desde su lado este, el Risco de Famara cae con una caída promedio de 500 m verticalmente hacia el mar hacia el oeste. La roca es de basalto sólido solo en su parte superior, mientras que la parte inferior del acantilado es quebradiza y podrida. Para los excursionistas hay dos alternativas interesantes: una caminata expuesta a lo largo de la cresta de ruptura y un camino de mulas abandonado que atraviesa el acantilado a media altura. El camino fue abandonado por desprendimiento de rocas y hoy en día tiene algunos tramos desafiantes.
The oldest part of Lanzarote can be found in the north of the island. It is named after the village and beach of Famara, located at Bahia de Penedo, the bay, which is plainly distinguishable to the west of the peninsula. The most important feature is Risco de Famara, a massive cliff of some 15km length and a height of up to 672m. Lanzarote's highpoint, Peñas del Chache, is also the highest point of this cliff. While easily reachable from its eastern side Risco de Famara drops with an average drop of 500m vertically into the sea to its west. The rock is solid basalt in its topmost part only while the lower part of the cliff is brittle and rotten. For hikers there are two interesting alternatives: an exposed hike along the break-off ridge and an abandoned mule road cutting through the cliff at half height. The road was abandoned due to rockfall and nowadays has some dangerous challenging sections.
"Pared de Famara" and "Via falsa de Famara" mentioned here. And "Risco de Famara" mentioned here.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Lo más grande
7a / 6a+ A0. Una de las rutas más largas de Lanzarote. Completamente atornillado, se requieren 20-25 cintas exprés y 60m de cuerda. ¡Casco obligatorio! Deja un coche en la parte superior. ¡Trae suficiente agua! 4 a 6 horas. Estacione en el gran estacionamiento al final de la calle y verá el pilar directamente encima de usted. One of the longest routes of Lanzarote. According to the blog fully bolted, 20-25 quickdraws and 60m rope required. Helmet mandatory! Leave a car at the top or hike back Barranco de la Poceta to the south (2h). Bring enough water! 4 till 6 hours. Park at the big parking lot at the end of the road and you will see the pillar directly above you. With a jeep you can also drive to the end of the upper (bad) road and save half of the walking up. Blog and topo. Video soloclimber. Blog 6c 400m. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video. Video soloclimber. Video. FA: Club Lichen del Tenique | 6c - 7a | 400m, 12 | |||||
2 | more trad routes | |||||||
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1.25. Balcón Gracioso 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 29.229421, -13.470676
description
Acantilado sobre el océano en el arrecife del extremo norte de Lanzarote con vistas espectaculares a La Graciosa. Desafortunadamente, solo 2 rutas con pernos viejos que casi se oxidan. ¡Así que es un gran tope!
Cliff high above the ocean on the far north end reef of Lanzarote with spectacular views to La Graciosa. Unfortunately only 2 routes with old bolts that nearly rusted away. So it makes a great toprope!
approach
Estacione en el Mirador del Río y camine 2 km hasta el peñasco en el extremo norte del arrecife, donde lo esperan 3 rampas. También existe esta carretera (29.207216, -13.481701) que es completamente manejable para jeep o a mitad de camino para autos normales imprudentes. Hay un letrero que dice "solo personal autorizado", pero todos los parapentes y voladores de dragones también usan este camino para llegar al punto de partida en el arrecife.
Park at Mirador del Rio and walk 2km to the crag at the far northern end of the reef where 3 abseil bolts await you. There is also this road (29.207216, -13.481701) which is nearly full way drivable for jeep or half way for reckless normal cars. There is a sign "authorised personal only", but all the paragliders and dragon flyers use this road too to reach ther starting point on the reef.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Route 1
Igual que "Ruta 2". El grado se ve similar, 6a +?. Same as "Route 2". Grade looks similiar, 6a+?. | 6a+ | 22m | |||||
2 |
★ Route 2
3 pernos de rappel de buen gusto en el extremo del arrecife, tal vez de respaldo con una eslinga larga también. La longitud de la ruta para anclar es de 22 my 5 m hasta la cima, por lo que la longitud del rápel es de 27 m. 9 pernos y ancla casi oxidada, en esta condición solo es posible en toprope. Rock en su mayor parte muy bien, para el ancla se suelta un poco. Los 5m del ancla son totalmente chossy, un motivo más para apuntalar;) 3 okayish abseil bolts on the reef end, maybe backup with long sling too. Route length to anchor is 22m and 5m to the top, so 27m abseil length. 9 bolts and anchor nearly rusted away, in this condition only possible in toprope. Rock for the most part really good, to the anchor it gets a bit loose. The 5m from the anchor are totally chossy, one more reason for toprope | 6a+ | 22m, 9 | |||||
3 | maybe more trad routes? |