A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Mallorca 1,460 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Deep Water and other styles

Long/Lat: 2.949650, 39.594213

Unique Features And Strengths:

Beautiful limestone climbing on countless larger and smaller crags and deepwater spots.

Description:

A handy guidebook comes from www.rockfax.com. This site also hosts a well-mantained database and PDF-guides, some free.

Where To Stay:

As a popular tourist destination, Mallorca boasts a plethora of accomodation sites. However, don't expect to find something without booking in advance: during high-season, crowds of tourists have already occupied most places and during off-season, many hotels close completely. Booking a finca in the country can be done via the internet for reasonable prices almost in every corner of the island. Camping is difficult: as there are only one or two official camping sites, and wild camping is tricky (everything is steep, stony, fenced-off or all of these), think twice.

1.1. Santa Ponça 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.482509, 39.507823

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flake Route 6aSport
2 * Flake Route Right 6b+Sport
3 ** White Arete 7bSport
4 * Wall Left 7a+Sport
5 * Wall and Cave 7a+Sport
6 White Wall 6c+Sport
7 ** The Scoop 7bSport
8 ** The White Groove 7b+Sport

1.2. Puig de Garrafa 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.425595, 39.560632

1.2.1. To pa ti 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** La cripta 7c+Sport
2 *** Rigor mortis 7c+Sport
3 *** Organ Pipes 7b+Sport
4 Undertaker 8aSport
5 La boite 7bSport
6 Inteligencia artificia 7aSport
7 * The Lion Slayer 6bSport
8 * El cazador 6aSport
9 * Skidmark 6a+Sport
10 Itchy feet 6aSport
11 *** To pa ti 7aSport
12 *** Sergi 7b+Sport
13 *** Na rua 7bSport
14 *** Air Europa 7cSport
15 *** Pepino 7aSport

1.2.2. Duck 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fisura 6b+Sport
2 * Dame argo 7b+Sport
3 ** Vivan las jarras 6cSport
4 * Vivan las Shandys 6aSport
5 ** ORC 6a+Sport
6 *** Fup 4cSport
7 *** Duck 5cSport
8 ** Pineapple 6aSport
9 *** Cheers 6aSport
10 *** Hooters 5cSport

1.2.3. Salto 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Chicharra loca 6aSport
2 Los Requena 7aSport
3 Super Lopez 6c+Sport
4 Super Lopez directa 7b+Sport
5 Salto del Angel 8a+Sport
6 Nakles 7c+Sport
7 ** Doog 6cSport

1.2.4. Colmena 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lucas 6bSport
2 Colmena 6cSport
3 Ella ya no vive aqui 6b+Sport
4 Aresta 6c+Sport
5 Cuatre pichos 6bSport
6 The arete 7aSport
7 Fisura bloque 7aSport
8 Fisura 7aSport

1.2.5. Corral 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dona Simena 5bSport
2 ** Polvoron 6aSport 17m
3 Illegales 7bSport
4 Legado 7b+Sport
5 ** Cala Bruix 6aSport 20m
6 The grey wall 7a+Sport
7 *** Al tanto que va de canto / The Orange Groove 6b+Sport 21m
8 El canto del loco 6cSport
9 Camino al infierno 7bSport
10 Bufon 6bSport
11 Aprendizaje por tercios 4Sport
12 Endemicus 6cSport
13 Vampiro 6b+Sport
14 Vampiresa 6bSport
15 NN Sport
16 Macaco 6aSport 14m
17 Puta guiri 6a+Sport
18 Erectus 6aSport

1.2.6. Sombra 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Alacran 5+Sport
2 Teresetes 6b+Sport
3 Sindrome Sport
4 Mission Possible Sport
5 *** Chorrera 7aSport
6 *** Columna 7a+Sport
7 Happy ena 7b+Sport
8 ** Cafe Solaris 7b+Sport
9 Chu, chu, chu.. 6c+Sport
10 * Chúpamela 6aSport
11 ** Planet G 8a+Sport
12 *** Labdance 7cSport
13 *** Pussicat 7b+Sport
14 ** Soledad 6cSport
15 Dios, no puedo? 6bSport

1.2.7. Solarium 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Sector has been closed by land owner, do not climb here anymore!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mirador 6aSport
2 Garrapata 5+Sport
3 * Lúcifer 6aSport
4 * Metállica 6aSport
5 * Snoopy 5Sport
6 ** Mafalda 5Sport 22m
7 Unknown Name

Starting very close to the right of Mafalda. Difficulty is very variing. Only the 2 meters from the second bolt are very hard.

6bSport 18m
8 * Scooby Doo 6aSport
9 * Dimension paralela / Orange Corner 4Sport 15m
10 * XXL / The Wall 5+Sport
11 * Shin Chan / The Rib 4+Sport 15m
12 Lucas / The Slab 4+Sport
13 ** Stairway to Heaven 6b+Sport

1.3. Sa Cantera 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.582466, 39.558182

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Manada salvaje 5aSport
2 Putero perdut 5aSport
3 Lucas 6a+Sport
4 * Sa Cantera 6cSport
5 Sa nina va moguda 7a+Sport
6 Caperucita 4aSport
7 Neo Variante 5aSport
8 * Neo 5cSport
9 ** Fantasmas al amanecer 6bSport
10 * Sa fisura 6aSport
11 * Sa bruta 6bSport
12 ** Fondo sur 4cSport
13 ** La abuela y sus pelotas 4aSport

1.4. Calvia 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.531314, 39.574771

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Windjamer 6aSport
2 ** No cal senior fiscal 5cSport
3 ** Chanco 6a+Sport
4 *** Perona 6cSport
5 ** Tirili 6bSport
6 *** Saque mate 6cSport
7 *** Jota jota 6bSport
8 *** Tu polla me enrolla 6a+Sport
9 ** Batakalofis 5cSport
10 ** Caguerra perpetua 5cSport
11 ** Extrafina 6a+Sport
12 * Weird Tree 5cSport
13 * Pinchito moruno 5cSport
14 ** El ultimo de la fila 6aSport
15 ** Calentura invernal 5cSport
16 ** Filas pipas 6a+Sport
17 ** Primera experienca 4cSport

1.5. Can Ortigues 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.425362, 39.625005

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Los abajo firmantes 6a+Sport
2 Balrog 6b+Sport
3 No siento las piernas 6a+Sport
4 * Hobbiton 4aSport
5 Quin clau 6cSport
6 Ultimos dÌas de la vÌtima 6bSport
7 Regina 7aSport
8 ** Barbol

The first 3 meters are quite hard (probably some holds have broken away) but using on big jug close in the next line to the left will help.

5cSport
9 ** La ley de la frontera

The first 3 meters are very hard (probably some holds have broken away), otherwise very interesting route.

5cSport
10 * La tuya y la mía 6aSport
11 ** Armageddon 6aSport
12 * Nameless 5aSport
13 * Puercoespin 6aSport
14 Steep Rib 7a+Sport
15 ** Tierra media 6cSport
16 * Club privado 7bSport
17 ** Guancho 6cSport
18 * The Wanderer 6c+Sport
19 * Area de servicio 4cSport

1.6. Galilea 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * La primera 7a+Sport
2 ** El poder de podar 6bSport
3 *** He man 8aSport
4 El seté cel 7b+Sport
5 *** Tortilla de espàrragos 7c+Sport
6 *** T de Sunami 8aSport
7 ** Saigón 7b+Sport
8 * Cristal de roca 7aSport
9 ** Galileaadictos 7a+Sport
10 *** Korea 8aSport
11 *** Linea Morgan 7cSport
12 *** Nandrolone 7c+Sport
13 ** Mr Bean 8a+Sport
14 ** Nandrolona 7bSport

1.7. La Vall Verde 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.451969, 39.572108

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Apreta peta 6aSport
2 Lucas forever 6a+Sport
3 * Gorrinos.com 5cSport
4 ** Relaja el hojete 6b+Sport
5 Betty 6cSport
6 NN

New route left of gulley

Sport
7 NN 2

New route right of gulley

Sport
8 NN 3

New (hard) route right of gulley

Sport
9 Comando pastillero 5aSport
10 ** Tres reyes 6aSport
11 La puerta 7aSport
12 Project Mendoza 7b+Sport

1.8. Es Verger 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.8.1. Sa Cova 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Retruc 7a+Sport
2 * Truc 7aSport
3 * Vull fer més 7bSport
4 ** Si t'aplec 7bSport
5 Muscleman Sport Project
6 *** Es Verger 7b+Sport
7 ** Amoniac amb sal 7cSport
8 ** Aferrar i xapar 7bSport
9 *** S'àncora 6a+Sport
10 ** S'àmfora 6b+Sport
11 * Sa figuera borda 6c+Sport
12 * Es cul mos cou 7aSport
13 * Xurrito 7b+Sport
14 * Campamento para gordos 6cSport
15 ** Balanceta 6b+Sport
16 Barrco de rejilla Sport Project
17 *** Sobremunt 7cSport
18 Malpas Sport Project

1.8.2. Es Sotil 22 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mal nom Sport Project
2 *** Sangonera 7cSport
3 ** Esclatabutses 6cSport
4 NN1 7b+Sport
5 *** Anamvichi 7bSport
6 ** Slap 7bSport
7 ** Sa rota magnètica 7a+Sport
8 *** Petit quer 7a+Sport
9 *** S'única 6cSport
10 NN2 Sport
11 ** Genma 7aSport
12 * Entre dos 7a+Sport
13 * Entre tres 7a+Sport
14 * Paparrina 7a+Sport
15 *** Epitocleitis Sport
16 ** El enterrador 6cSport
17 * Lumbago permanent 7aSport
18 *** Es ferreret 6cSport
19 * S'àtic 7c+Sport
20 Nacho Vidal Sport Project
21 *** Es sòtil 8aSport
22 ** Es cantò 7b+Sport

1.9. Valldemossa 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.599209, 39.718664

1.9.1. Upper 22 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Scoop Left 7bSport
2 Rusty 7cSport
3 ** Bulging Wall 7cSport
4 ** Central Flake 6bSport
5 *** Vall-de-mega 7aSport
6 * Wall Eliminate 7a+Sport
7 ** Chimenea 5cSport
8 ** Central Right 6b+Sport
9 ** Spanky 6aSport
10 ** Lanky 6aSport 24m
11 ** Average 6b+Sport
12 *** Shorty 6aSport
13 Arroz con leche 7bSport
14 Circ 7a+Sport
15 Jarcha 6c+Sport
16 Why Not 6cSport
17 Diedro y placa 6cSport
18 Arista y diedro 7a+Sport
19 Fisura fina 7bSport
20 Travesia 6cSport
21 * Kirsten 6aSport
22 * Kirsten II 5cSport

1.9.2. Parking 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 New line Sport
2 *** Streetball / Left Edge 6bSport
3 ** Wall and Overhang 6c+Sport
4 * Kiko 6bSport
5 * Scooped Runnel 6bSport
6 Project 7cSport
7 ** Palmolive 7bSport
8 ** Intrépido 6cSport
9 * Something 7aSport
10 ** Vía des clau 6bSport
11 * El jubilado 5aSport
12 *** Suphi 6aSport
13 * Fito 6b+Sport
14 * Jubilado Direct 6bSport
15 * Pepa 6a+Sport
16 * Pepino 6b+Sport
17 *** Leaning Arete 7b+Sport
18 *** Sostre den burotet 6c+Sport
19 ** Sostre Direct 7a+Sport
20 *** Dali 5cSport

1.9.3. Waikiki 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Roof Route Left 7aSport
2 * Roof Route Right 7aSport
3 ** Fisura 5cSport
4 * Under Waikiki 6c+Sport
5 *** Waikiki 7bSport
6 * Chimenea 6aSport

1.9.4. Roadside Buttress 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Izquierdo 4cSport
2 Centro 4aSport
3 Derecho 4aSport
4 Zurdo 6aSport
5 Rompededos 6a+Sport
6 * Pérfido encanto 6a+Sport
7 Triplet derecho 6bSport
8 Recto cresta 5cSport
9 Derecho castilla 6bSport

1.10. S' Estret 96 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 2.634305, 39.692068

Where To Stay:

Possible to sleep over on concrete border of water reservoir.

1.10.1. Mejicano 21 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.631345, 39.692654

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Bon voyage 8aSport
2 *** Supernenas 7b+Sport
3 NN1 Sport Project
4 Arista Sport Project
5 ** Head Hunter 8a+Sport
6 Tatoo 8b+Sport
7 ** Defcon one 8aSport
8 * Si yo fuera presidente 7b+Sport
9 *** Odio a cobi 7bSport
10 ** El sudaca 7a+Sport
11 Txino tzapa 8aSport
12 ** Tetrix 7c+Sport
13 Buñocracia 6b+Sport 18m
14 * Trio infernal 7cSport
15 * Casi 7cSport
16 * Maximo riesgo 7cSport
17 * La gigante verde 7aSport
18 * Directe verde 7a+Sport
19 * Bomber torrat 7a+Sport
20 Steep and slabby 6cSport 20m
21 Right Line 5aSport

1.10.2. Boulders 45 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Don Manolo 6BBoulder
2 DJ Link 6BBoulder 4m
3 *** D.J.Dan 7C+Boulder
4 *** Dejota Dijei 8ABoulder
5 All Simpson 6BBoulder
6 Entre Dos 6ABoulder
7 Homer Simpson 6BBoulder
8 *** Alone in the Dark 7ABoulder
9 Respeta l'arbre 6ABoulder
10 * El kamikaze 6ABoulder
11 ** El hueco 5CBoulder
12 Son Rocas 6BBoulder
13 * Mandel y skali 6BBoulder
14 ** Hip-hop de puta 6BBoulder
15 *** Jop 7B+Boulder
16 *** Zubizarreta 7CBoulder
17 * Pica paquito 6BBoulder
18 *** El crack 6ABoulder
19 *** Spanair 7A+Boulder
20 * D.J. Cervino 7B+Boulder
21 * Comando rasta 6CBoulder
22 Carta de plata 5CBoulder
23 Don Simón 6CBoulder
24 ** Golpesito Rodriguez 6CBoulder
25 * Skiatada 5BBoulder
26 Paco PP 6ABoulder
27 Aloete 6BBoulder
28 El rincón moro 6CBoulder
29 ** El cagatió 6BBoulder
30 7 notas, 7 colores 7ABoulder
31 Siete, siete 6ABoulder
32 Nen's traverse 7A+Boulder
33 Falsa identidad 6ABoulder
34 *** Chanelance 7A+Boulder
35 *** El rimadero 8A+Boulder
36 *** Señor Don Paco 7ABoulder
37 Sabio Joven Negro Estudiante 6BBoulder
38 El comienzo 6ABoulder
39 Romano 6BBoulder
40 Los reyes del insomnio 7ABoulder
41 Tetas valadores 6CBoulder
42 Chochos valdores 6CBoulder
43 Juggy Warm-up 4CBoulder
44 Great Roof Problem 6BBoulder
45 *** Dani's Roof 6BBoulder

1.10.3. Cuarentón 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.636494, 39.691989

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Big Bang 6bSport 20m
2 ** Mexicans Forever 6c+Sport 20m
3 ** Tex-Mex 6b+Sport 25m
4 ** Kum Laude 7aSport 25m
5 Bicep Blowout 7a+Sport 25m
6 ** Busibus 6c+Sport 25m
7 ** Red Stain 6b+Sport 18m
8 Part forana 5cSport 15m
9 Movimiento sexy 5cSport 18m
10 Tight slab 6a+Sport 20m
11 Manage à trois 6a+Sport 20m
12 Eliminate 5cSport 22m
13 Virgin 6aSport 22m
14 End slab 1 5aSport 15m
15 End Slab 2 5aSport 15m
16 Las cagao 5aSport 15m

1.10.4. Mario 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.636368, 39.691530

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mario moreno II 4cSport 25m
2 Mario moreno 5aSport 25m
3 Zarzamora 4cSport 25m

1.10.5. Pipe 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.636148, 39.691256

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 El imperio contrataca 4cSport 10m
2 Elretorno del Jedi 5aSport 10m
3 La guerra de las galaxies 4cSport 10m
4 Pezón 5cSport 10m
5 Quaried wall 5cSport 10m

1.10.6. Pasión 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.636486, 39.691249

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** El bandido de un brazo 6aSport 30m
2 ** El culo 5aSport 23m
3 ** King of Quint 6a+Sport 35m
4 ** Con el culo al aire 5cSport 23m
5 *** Pasión interminable 4cSport 30m
6 * Pasión Oculta 4cSport

1.11. Sa Gubia 124 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 2.673189, 39.694342

Unique Features And Strengths:

Large crag with diverse climbing. Sport and (at least one) trad, single and multi-pitch, shade and sun.

Description:

Essentially the entrance into a gorge, Sa Gubia boast high walls, an airy ridge, pumping overhangs and some minor buttresses. Easy routes can also be found; the real hard-mover may be a bit bored.

Approach:

Take Ma-11 from Palma towards Sóller. Use the car park immediately after the turnoff to Bunyola. Walk into the narrow road heading West opposite the turnoff (driving is possible, but parking problematic, so leave the car at the main road to avoid trobling the locals). Follow the track for ~800 m until it turns into a path at crossing a (dry) riverbed. Walk up this riverbed for 400 m till the entrance of the gorge.

1.11.1. Paret dels Coloms 35 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Wall at the left side of gorge (looking inward)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pecho Lata 6b+Sport
2 * Amor brujo 6bSport
3 * Papa moreno 6b+Sport
4 Puente aéreo 5cTrad
5 * Peur Impossible 7aSport
6 Es poal Sport
7 ** Esto no es quinto superior 7aSport
8 Papidepau 7bSport
9 Eternum 7cSport
10 Hey Noray! 8aSport
11 *** Sal de arenal 6cSport
12 ** Tres menos cuarto 7b+Sport
13 ** Front 242 7b+Sport
14 *** Algo salvage 6bSport
15 *** Piñón fijo 7b+Sport
16 *** Si lo sé no vengo 7aSport 30m
17 *** Perque triunfin els canalles 6b+Sport
18 ** Pesadilla final 6a+Sport
19 ** La peladora 6cSport
20 ** Humi 6a+Sport
21 ** Mes rapit suc el vent 6a+Sport
22 ** Pellejo de tiburón 7aSport
23 * Seis pelas 6cSport
24 *** Decadencia corporal 6cSport
25 Comechochos 6aSport
26 ** Tao 6c+Sport
27 ** Leather Face 7a+Sport
28 *** Pasteles de Isabel 7bSport
29 ** Gay Power 7bSport
30 ** Vol de nuit 6bSport 25m
31 *** Tía melis 6aSport 50m
32 *** Estricnina 5cSport 95m
33 *** Chungui chunguez 6cSport
34 ** Danzomanía 6a+Sport
35 ** Guatón 6aSport

1.11.2. Cara Oeste 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bush rit et Massacre 7a+Sport
2 Interval training 7a+Sport
3 Gato negro 7a+Sport
4 SOeScaladores en perdición 7cSport
5 *** Lluvia providencial 7bSport
6 *** Escaladores en la niebla 6c+Sport
7 *** Los colores de la caliza 7bSport
8 *** Le lapin en décomposition 8aSport
9 Voyages dans l'eau de là 7c+Sport
10 Tres estrellas 7cSport

1.11.3. Espolón 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 2.672982, 39.694706

Description:

prominent buttress at the back of the gorge

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Supernova, Spits 'n Giggles 6aSport
2 *** Albahida / Gubia Normal 4cTrad 220m
3 *** Quan es fa fosc 5aSport 150m

1.11.4. Bomberos 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chitas marchitas 6b+Sport
2 * Charly danone 7a+Sport
3 Jódete y baila 6b+Sport
4 * Fill de ric 6aSport
5 * Puta perro 6aSport
6 *** La ley del deseo 5cSport
7 ** Sonrisa vertical

Variation pitch right of pitch 2 of La ley del deseo

6aSport
8 ** The Master 6aSport
9 ** Polla boba

Pitch 1 same as "The Master"

6aSport
10 ** Méjico lindo

Pitch 1 same as "The Master"

6a+Sport
11 * Alternative Start

Alternative 1st pitch of "The Master"

5aSport
12 ** Split Start Route 6a+Sport
13 ** Oasis 6bSport
14 ** Bomberos Direct

Direct version of pitch 1 of "Vía de los bomberos"

6cSport
15 *** Vía de los bomberos 6bSport
16 * Hambre eterna 6bSport

1.11.5. Princesa 23 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

huge wall right of buttress

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Via Llum de Lluna 6bSport
2 *** Princesa 6cSport
3 *** Sol Solet 6b+Sport
4 ** Placa aspera 6a+Sport 26m
5 *** Tierra al reves

Interesting start to the roof and some cool move past it. The first bolt in the roof is a bit awkward to clip.

6a+Sport 26m
6 *** Diablo 8aSport
7 *** Moca de pavo 7cSport
8 *** Foracorda

Pitch 2 of "Moca de pavo"

8bSport
9 * Idem 7b+Sport
10 *** De gorrones hasta los cojones 8aSport
11 *** Sexo débil 6b+Sport
12 Easy Slab 4cSport
13 Es Barbut 5aSport
14 * Cannabis Left-hand 4aSport
15 * Cannabis in vitro 4cSport
16 ** Potaje Español 5aSport
17 * El jardín de la abuela 5aSport
18 ** Tantum ergo 5aSport
19 ** Mipichica 7bSport
20 ** Miju 7b+Sport
21 Caperucita roja 6bSport
22 Groove 6aSport
23 Groove Right-hand 6bSport

1.11.6. Isla Bonita 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

First sector right side of gorge, looking inward

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * To kiski'm'toca 6c+Sport
2 ** Fina y segura 6bSport
3 Pringa mete el dedo 6bSport
4 La isla bonita Original

Original start to "La isla bonita"

6b+Sport
5 ** La isla bonita 6b+Sport 60m
6 Variation to 1st pitch LIB 5cSport
7 * Climber Gay 6bSport 40m
8 Franceses 6cSport 78m
9 * Phantasmagoria 7bSport
10 ** Bongo bongo 7a+Sport
11 ** Gigoló 7bSport
12 Why!

Face and dihedral onto pillar - very reachy for those below 1,80 m.

6cSport
13 *** Cortocircuito 6bSport
14 ** Zaragüay 6a+Sport
15 *** Agárrate maldito 7cSport

1.11.7. Excalibur 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * K.G.B. 6c+Sport
2 ** Na guarra 6aSport
3 * Horrible belleza 7aSport
4 *** Excalibur 6aSport
5 * Ópera prima 5cSport
6 No haces más grado 7bSport
7 * Trampera matinera 6bSport
8 * Bofetadas de placer 7b+Sport
9 ** Charismatic 6cSport
10 * Hot consuela 6c+Sport
11 * Ingleses 6b+Sport

1.11.8. Silicona 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Less-than-vertical walls and slabs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hawaii 5-0 4cSport
2 ** Totom fa el que vol 6a+Sport
3 * Silicona 6b+Sport
4 ** Lulu 6bSport
5 ** Proteina vegetal 6aSport
6 * Resaca 6a+Sport
7 *** Gran pis 6bSport
8 * Rustic pogo 6b+Sport
9 * Route 9 6a+Sport
10 * Familia Iscariote 6aSport
11 Familia variante 6bSport

1.12. Fraguels 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.12.1. Pink Panther 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Left Pillar 6aSport
2 * Pastel de ochoce 6aSport
3 * Ochobe mas 6bSport
4 Vuit se mes 6aSport
5 ** Ojo climico 6c+Sport
6 ** 666 6cSport
7 ** Tabasco 7a+Sport
8 ** Harissa 7bSport
9 *** Pink Panther 6a+Sport
10 * El terrat 6bSport
11 * Caca de colores 7a+Sport
12 * Rosa de sanatorio 7b+Sport
13 * Fakir 6cSport

1.12.2. Goo Goo Mack 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flake and Groove 5cSport
2 * Psycho Killer 6c+Sport
3 *** Jungle hop 7a+Sport
4 *** Salpicón de menisco 8aSport
5 *** Solo Sex 8aSport
6 La otra linea 8b+Sport
7 Senglier 8bSport
8 *** Goo Goo Mack 8aSport

1.12.3. Football Fan 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Le gorille a une bonne mine 7cSport
2 *** Amnesia 8b+Sport
3 *** Football Fan 8aSport
4 Ca'n Bum 7cSport
5 *** Shabada 8a+Sport
6 Black hole 7b+Sport
7 *** Ramadán 8bSport

1.12.4. Bobo dodo 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** French Kiss 8bSport
2 *** Terre d'adventure 7cSport
3 *** Terre d'adventure plus 8aSport
4 *** Fes lo que puguis 7b+Sport
5 *** Miss Palma 7b+Sport
6 *** Bobo dodo 8c+Sport
7 *** Humanoide 8a+Sport
8 *** NN 8b+Sport
9 *** Pantano boas 7c+Sport

1.12.5. Rock Punk 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Miguel and the test tube babies 7c+Sport
2 * Aloha from Hell 7cSport
3 ** Glasnost 7bSport
4 ** Tête de pene 7c+Sport
5 El último vals 8aSport
6 *** Rock punk 7c+Sport
7 *** Cuencamelo 7cSport
8 *** On es l'avi 7b+Sport

1.12.6. Cous-cous 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Pastanaga punyetera 8aSport
2 ** Setebe el plumero 7b+Sport
3 ** Gaucho 8aSport
4 ** Cotorrot 7c+Sport
5 *** Cous-cous 6cSport
6 ** Esto no es Calvià 6c+Sport
7 * Sementir 6b+Sport
8 * Comando rasta 6bSport
9 * Hard Finish 6b+Sport
10 eep show's barriga 7cSport
11 Marmade 7b+Sport
12 ** Tofol 6b+Sport
13 Churro pino 6aSport
14 Chris line 4cSport

1.13. Ca'n Torrat 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Alaró 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.794548, 39.730269

1.14.1. Paret de sa Porta 22 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** A 7bSport
2 *** B 7aSport
3 * C 6cSport
4 ** D 6aSport
5 ** Esteban 7b+Sport
6 *** ¿Amigos para siempre? 7c+Sport
7 *** Foam Party 7cSport
8 *** ¡Muérete ya! 7cSport
9 *** Zatropeck 7cSport
10 * Aferra el tul 6cSport
11 ** Mata guiris 7a+Sport
12 ** No res 7a+Sport
13 * Frit 6aSport
14 * Sobrassada 5aSport
15 ** Bulge By-pass 6a+Sport
16 * Snowboard 5cSport
17 * Fido-dido 6aSport
18 * Vagon roll 4cSport
19 * Las mallas de cristo 5aSport
20 Tiddler 5cSport
21 Hola qué tal 6aSport
22 * Far right line 6aSport

1.14.2. Medio 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pitopausico 6cSport
2 Via antigua con buriles Sport
3 *** Triquinosis 6cSport
4 *** Idiot Ballroom 7b+Sport
5 *** Blobs 'n' Bushes 7b+Sport
6 Sa curta 5cSport
7 ** Sa figuereta 6b+Sport
8 ** Left Line 5cSport
9 ** Right Line 6b+Sport
10 Wall 'n' Crack 6b+Sport
11 *** S'acabat 6cSport
12 ** Lute 7aSport
13 Superchorrera access

Access pitch for the next routes.

6aSport
14 *** Superchorrera 7bSport
15 *** XTR 7b+Sport
16 *** Therapy 7bSport
17 Sánchez Sport
18 *** Magnum 7a+Sport

1.14.3. Chorreras 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Africaners 7bSport
2 Orion 6c+Sport
3 Ali-up 8aSport
4 *** Hob nobs 7aSport
5 *** Buf! 7aSport
6 *** To pa ti 7a+Sport
7 *** Clonción 7bSport
8 *** Pilar 7bSport

1.14.4. Kiko 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Slab 1 6cSport
2 * Lluvia dorado 6b+Sport
3 * Miko Moko 6cSport
4 * Ramon me ha hecho el avion 6a+Sport
5 ** Pincha uvas 5cSport
6 *** Pinchas uvas Extension 7b+Sport
7 ** Kiko 6aSport
8 Grey Slab Left 4cSport
9 Grey Slab Right 4cSport
10 ** Xavier 7bSport
11 ** Luna 7cSport

1.15. Gorg Blau 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.825337, 39.813007

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crag with 60+ steep and long routes, almost no easy stuff.

Description:

Prominent steep wall downstream the Gorg Blau reservoir's dam. Many steep routes, shady almost all day. Can be a bit noisy due to the traffic on the main road.

Approach:

Going from Sóller to Lluc/Pollenca (Ma-10) park at the small café at the turn off towards the coast (to Sa Calobra). Opposite the road a gate blocks a gravel road into a gorge towards the foot of the dam of Gorg Blau reservoir. Bypass the gate and walk 200 m into the gorge - the climbing will appear at the left walls.

1.15.1. Es Torrente 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

leftmost (northeastern) part of the wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Aixo es L'Habana 6b+Sport
2 ** Estreny els dits 7cSport
3 * Lola's 6c+Sport
4 * Not Lolas 6c+Sport
5 * Only for Women 6b+Sport
6 * Luisa en la repisa 5aSport
7 * Luisa me avisa 6aSport
8 ** Sa primera 6c+Sport
9 * Akkupunktur 7a+Sport
10 * La noche me confunde 7bSport
11 ** Ni quibo ni bloco 7c+Sport
12 Na taca 8aSport
13 *** Sa festa 7cSport
14 ** Natiu 8bSport
15 ** S'Entreforc 8b+Sport
16 ** Mr. Magu 8a+Sport
17 *** Karakorum 7cSport
18 *** Sóliva 8bSport

1.15.2. Plaques 24 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

central part of wall

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tuinki yunki 7cSport
2 *** Bulge and Recesses Sport
3 *** Joan Petit 6b+Sport
4 ** Sa Canal 6a+Sport
5 ** Fill de puta 7aSport
6 * Route 6 7a+Sport
7 ** Farina de força 7bSport
8 ** Chiringuito 7a+Sport
9 ** S'Escorpi 6cSport
10 *** Sa taranta 7b+Sport
11 *** Mala llet forastera 8aSport
12 ** Dos largos 7a+Sport
13 * Mort de fam 7a+Sport
14 ** Parkinson 7a+Sport
15 *** Pocket Wall 7aSport
16 Short Slab 4aSport
17 ** Hay, hay! 7c+Sport
18 *** Overhang Left 7bSport
19 ** Gueropa 7aSport
20 *** Airbus 7bSport
21 Featureless Wall 7cSport
22 Bart Simpson 7bSport
23 *** Lisa Simpson 6b+Sport
24 Easy Open Groove 5aSport

1.15.3. Des Cable 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

wall next to dam

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Chill Out 8a+Sport
2 *** Gorg Blau 7c+Sport
3 *** Misión azul 8aSport
4 *** La misión 8b+Sport
5 *** Totes.com 8b+Sport
6 *** Sa fosca 8cSport
7 *** No Badis 8bSport
8 *** Long Beach 8a+Sport

1.16. Port de Soller 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.16.1. Far Left Cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rufo 6c+Sport
2 ** Rocko 7aSport
3 ** Repoman 8aSport

1.16.2. Nuevo 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** S'illeta 6bSport
2 ** Sa Torre Picada 6cSport
3 ** 25 de agosto 7a+Sport
4 * Quin Berenar 7b+Sport
5 * Voramar 7a+Sport
6 ** Sa Roqueta 6cSport
7 Crozzle Pillar Left 6cSport
8 * Crozzle Pillar Right 6c+Sport

1.16.3. Blobland 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dosis 7bSport
2 *** La Machado 7cSport
3 *** Blobland 6cSport 30m
4 *** Directland

Direct version of Blobland

7bSport
5 ** Blobland Right 6cSport
6 ** Bon Vi 6a+Sport 22m
7 ** Els salvatjes 6b+Sport

1.16.4. Sa Cova 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sun 6cSport
2 * Sun Right-hand 6a+Sport
3 *** El mar del amor / Sea 6aSport 27m
4 *** Patito feo / Sand 6bSport 27m
5 * Dit I fet 7aSport
6 *** Virgin 8aSport
7 *** Virgin Direct 7b+Sport
8 *** Phantomas 7bSport
9 *** Ficalito 7cSport
10 *** Club super tres 7bSport
11 *** Ja som five 6c+Sport 27m
12 *** Bubu mac 6b+Sport
13 * Wall Left 6cSport
14 ** Wall Right 6bSport 25m

1.16.5. Far Right 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Picnic Left 6cSport
2 Picnic 6b+Sport
3 * Picnic Centre 6cSport
4 * Picnic Right 7aSport

1.17. C'an Nyic 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.775663, 39.791321

Unique Features And Strengths:

Small mountain crag with a dozen nice routes and a short approach

Description:

This nice crag (also called Torella in some guidebooks) is located at rather high altitude. Together with its NW-facing walls this make it a excellent choice on hot days, but may as well be chilly in the wind. Besides the described routes there seem to be some recent projects.

Approach:

Take C-710 from Sóller towards Lluc. Approx. 10 km after Sóller, just before passing tunnel, there is a viewpoint at the right side of the road. Use the parking left of the road. The climbs can be found 50 - 300 m on the wall above the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bernadí Company 6c+Sport
2 Nycinyatos 4+Sport
3 Borinot 6cSport
4 Ho passam pillo 7aSport
5 *** Bona nyic 6a+Sport 24m
6 *** Molins de paper 6bSport 26m
7 Tutup

hard and technical start

6cSport
8 Na faresta 7b+Sport
9 S'Horabaixa 7cSport
10 Agent Orange 8a+Sport
11 Max Cady 7cSport

1.18. Es Grau des Ruc 53 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.18.1. Bella Donna Aparcamiento 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Coliflor women 6cSport
2 ** Realidad paralela 7bSport
3 * Pasos de rellero 7c+Sport
4 * Es salt 7bSport
5 *** Baixem una estrella 6bSport
6 * Decota decotador 7cSport
7 * Tulipan 7aSport
8 Quint 6aSport

1.18.2. Es Salt 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Superferret 7a+Sport
2 * Kilometre 13 7b+Sport
3 ** De malas a peor 7b+Sport
4 Hotel glamour 8bSport
5 El fari aparca 8a+Sport
6 Papi chulo 7cSport
7 ** Santa Bush 7bSport
8 Poda d'altura 7a+Sport

1.18.3. Esquerra 26 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Porcona 6cSport
2 ** El fingidor d'orgasmes 6cSport
3 ** Las grupis 6c+Sport
4 ** Na curta 7aSport
5 *** Aixi es maten 7a+Sport
6 *** Decision hit 7a+Sport
7 ** Gold Single Traverse 8aSport
8 *** Precision milimetrica 7cSport
9 * Vida facil 7c+Sport
10 ** Agresio fisica 7cSport
11 ** Tira que ve peix 7b+Sport
12 * R.line 7aSport
13 * Bingo 7cSport
14 * Siracusa mon amour 6c+Sport
15 *** Zaratrusta 7c+Sport
16 ** Ariestocrata 8a+Sport
17 *** Qui tub retub 8a+Sport
18 *** Calladita estas mas guapa 8aSport
19 *** Efecto mariposa 8aSport
20 *** El justciero 7cSport
21 *** Moscos fora 7cSport
22 ** Te mataras 7cSport
23 *** Es grau des ruc 7b+Sport
24 * Skiasical 7c+Sport
25 * Remate final 7b+Sport
26 ** Tramontana 7aSport

1.18.4. Dreta 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * El somriure de la bruixa 7a+Sport
2 ** Capiacua 7a+Sport
3 ** Let's deux 7a+Sport
4 ** No country for plafoneros 7bSport
5 ** Tia aina 7c+Sport
6 * Sobrasada power 8aSport
7 * A golpe de gas 7cSport
8 *** Perdiuota 6c+Sport
9 *** Escalfament 7bSport
10 ** Rallito 7bSport
11 ** Tongo mongui 7aSport

1.19. El Paradon - Puig Major 0 routes in Crag

1.20. Cala Tuent & Sa Calobra 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 2.789260, 39.843588

Approach:

Between Sóller and Pollenca turn off towards the coast at the road to Sa Calobra. A VERY winding road with stunning views will keep you busy turning the steering weel for 15-20 min (on all accounts, avoid coming or going between 10:00 and 16:00, when the road is often clogged with tourist cars and busses).

1.20.1. Es Queixal 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 2.787528, 39.844501

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the more remote crags of the island with a long approach, both by car and foot. Bushwacking, great scenery and solitude guaranteed.

Description:

Prominent buttress above the bay of Cala Tuent. Although stunning from afar, the merely dozen 1-2 pitch routes somehow are less than one could wish for after the strenous approach. However, this is a beautiful place with routes facing North and North-East, providing shade in the heat but exposed to winds.

Approach:

Between Sóller and Pollenca (Ma-10) turn off towards the coast at the road to Sa Calobra. A VERY winding road with stunning views will keep you busy turning the steering weel for 15-20 min (on all accounts, avoid coming or going between 10:00 and 16:00, when the road is often clogged with tourist cars and busses). Shortly before reaching Sa Calobra turn left towards Cala Tuent. Park near the signposted restaurant Es Vergeret at the southern edge of the village continue by foot following the hiking trail towards Villa S'Avenc (10 min), the topmost finca at the valleyside before the forest begins. Rumour has it that following the fence uphill wil lead you to a faint path and occasional cairns. Be prepared for 20 min of intense bushwhacking, eventually the forest will clear and you can follow some scree slopes to the base of the cliff. Alternatively, follow the hiking trail araound and approach the buttress from the west - also pathless, but less shrubs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Los tuberculosos van al campo

close to the Eastern col

5+Sport
2 Es mirador 5+Sport
3 Idò a que esperes 6a+Sport
4 No és es drago el que em fa por

Northern side of buttress, left of chimney

6c+Sport
5 Es queixal corcat

up the chimney, first pitch bolted

6a+Trad 75m
6 Sa travessa des queixal 6bSport
7 Gelat i desrinyonat 6a+Sport
8 Jose's show 7a+Sport
9 Pepa Patissier 6cSport
10 Rintintin 6cSport
11 Santas pascuas

short slab

5+Sport
12 Canta y no llores 6aSport

1.20.2. Sa Bretxa 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 2.799368, 39.843490

Unique Features And Strengths:

Picturesque rock spire. True summit with summit register and a handful of trad routes with some bolts.

Description:

Prominent rock spire 300 m uphill of the junction Cala Tuent-Sa Calobra, . Very limited parking shortly before the road crossed the narrow rock passage. Mostly 2-pitch trad-climbing with some bolts to a true summit with register. Beautiful boulders at the base, also the walls in the background look promising. Wear a helmet.

Approach:

Between Sóller and Pollenca turn off towards the coast at the road to Sa Calobra. A VERY winding road with stunning views will keep you busy turning the steering weel for 15-20 min (on all accounts, avoid coming or going between 10:00 and 16:00, when the road is often clogged with tourist cars and busses). 50 m uphill a very narrow rock passage there is a viewpoint with limited parking. Walk through the rock passage and you'll stand below the rock tower.

History:

It seems the name of "Cavall Bernat" as mentioned in the summit register is disputed, as can be read there, too. Unfortunately the discussion is in Mallorquin, so if you can clarify things, please do so.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Via Normal

Easiest line, starting at the shortest side of the rock spire (south east corner).

  1. 30 m (4) Follow some pitons to the tree on the ledge halfway up the wall (slings for rappel).
  2. 25 m (4) Follow crack (left) or chimney (straight up) to slab and anchors. Summit register is somewhat hidden. Helmet recommended. (taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)
4Trad 55m
2 Via M / Via Ràpel

at east-side right of Via Normal.

  1. 20 m (5) follow bolts leading slightly to the right to anchors
  2. 20 m (6a) traverse left to crack in corner (2 pitons) that leads to tree on ledge (anchor of Via Normal);
  3. 20 m (5) traverse ledge to the right, follow chimney and slabs to the top. Small set of friends and rocks needed. Helmet recommended.
6aTrad 60m
3 Alternative start "M"

follow two old looking bolts in south-east side leaning right to first anchor of Via M. Small set of friends and rocks needed.

6aTrad 60m
4 Via Pan
  1. 30 m (6b+ (5+ A1 obl.)) start in central East face at short blank and dark-looking overhanging section (6b+ or easy aid) over 2 glue-in bolts to ledge. Follow slab (2 bolts), left around to corner to left leaning crack (bolt), juggy overhang to anchor of Via Normal.
  2. 30 m (6b+ (5+ obl.)) pitch: keep right to blank slab (3 bolts, can be bypassed by using chimney behind tree) to easier terrain to the summit.

Small set of friends, rocks and slings needed. Helmet recommended.

FA: D. Page, T. Francke, 2010

6b+ A1Mixed 60m, 8
5 Nova via

(taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

5Trad
6 Faixir

north-east corner (taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

6aTrad
7 N/A

Overhanging corner in west face. Details unknown.

Aid

1.20.3. Sa Calobra 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 2.806585, 39.851025

Description:

mouth of Sa Calobra Gorge: a handful of rusted toprope bolts, deep water soloing routes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Mallorcan

Set by Ged Desforges, 2007

7aDWS
2 * The Little Professor

FA: Beail / Smith / Chapman, 2003

5cDWS
3 ** The Mad Professor

FA: Daimon Beail, 2005

6c+DWS
4 Water Logged

FA: Julian Chapman, 2003

6aDWS
5 ** Sa pose

FA: Daimon Beail, 2003

6b+DWS
6 ** The Fulcher

FA: Daimon Beail, 2005

6b+DWS
7 *** Wax 7a+DWS

1.21. Las Perxes 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 2.896342, 39.777602

Unique Features And Strengths:

Three sectors close to the road. -

Description:

There are a handful of more undocumented climbs (some apparently shiny new, some chopped) at the wall above the road north-east of Hairpin Wall. No proper path there, but probably a new sector to come.

1.21.1. Sector Cueva 35 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Boulder
Description:

Cave with hard climbing

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grade 5 5aSport
2 Less Purchase 6bSport
3 Septaplua 7a+Sport
4 * Petit poi 6c+Sport
5 7b+ Route 7b+Sport
6 * Ball de bot 7a+Sport
7 *** Empire State 8bSport
8 Old Project 8b+Sport
9 *** Peu deret 8b+Sport
10 *** Commando Madrid 8bSport
11 *** Odissy 8c+Sport
12 *** American Express 8cSport
13 *** Master Hit 8b+Sport
14 *** M & M's 8a+Sport
15 *** Colgao 7bSport
16 *** Penjat 7bSport
17 * Agárrate Ruiz de la Prada 7c+Sport
18 *** A vista de pájaro 8a+Sport
19 Guiris go Home 8cSport
20 8a Route 8aSport
21 *** Motorhead 7c+Sport
22 Motorhead Start Left-hand 7B+Boulder
23 Motorhead Start Right-hand 7B+Boulder
24 Motorvisión 7B+Boulder
25 *** Terrorvision 8aSport
26 Terrorvisión Start 7CBoulder
27 *** Die Toten Hosen 7cSport
28 Die Toten Hosen Start 6CBoulder
29 *** Bon apetit 8aSport
30 Bon apetit Start 6CBoulder
31 ** Penthouse 7c+Sport
32 Penthouse Start 7ABoulder
33 Pent gurus 7ABoulder
34 *** Hoodoo Gurus 7b+Sport
35 * Txapuz Board 7cSport

1.21.2. Hairpin Wall 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.898173, 39.778752

Unique Features And Strengths:

Small crag with a dozen moderate routes.

Description:

Cliff next to the second hairpin bend after Caimari with some trees providing shade at the base of the south-westerly face. Not fully child-proof: The embankment of the gravel road makes an unpleasant 5 m drop to watch out for.

Access Issues:

Don't drive right to the crag - private property; park at the main road.

Approach:

From Inca drive towards Lluc. After passing the village of Caimari, park right at the apex of the very first hairpin bend. Follow the gravel road for ca. 200 m to the base of the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Curving Groove

Left of groove

5Sport
2 * Central

Central route; spectacular second pitch, somewhat slick in places

5+Sport
3 * Right 5Sport
4 Cristo en pel, taronges navel

starting from the lower-off of Right

7aSport
5 The Hard One

high first bolt

7aSport
6 The Blob

Slab, then left towards blob, shares anchors with ¨The Hard One¨

6cSport
7 * The Blob Right-hand

Start the slab below the blob, pass it right and follow a crack towards a (single) anchor half a metre left of the anchor of ¨The Blob Indirect¨

6bSport 6
8 * The Blob Indirect

Interesting short route to anchor below ledge. Misleading name - does not include the blob!

5+Sport 5
9 Pocket

Further right on the cliff, left route

6a+Sport
10 Pocket Right

branch off to the right after second bolt of "Pocket"

6aSport
11 Poor

rightmost route

6b+Sport

1.21.3. Muro de Caimari 17 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 2.898899, 39.777279

Description:

A dozen+ routes on a small wall above the road south-east of Hairpin Wall

Approach:

park as for Hairpin Wall or take the chance and proceed one Hairpin further, where one or two small cars may be parked. Cross a stile and head 100 m up to the wall looming above the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Nosferatu 6cSport
2 ** Paparazzi 6cSport
3 ** Tránsfuga 6b+Sport
4 * Suquet 6bSport
5 * A la fresca 6aSport
6 * Mantis 6aSport
7 * Lucas 6bSport
8 * Mescalina 6bSport
9 * El calvario del enano 6cSport
10 * Dos bidedos y un destino 6c+Sport
11 * Arrufa es cul 7aSport
12 ** Sacrilegio 7a+Sport
13 * Capitan gotera 7a+Sport
14 * Doctor maligno 7a+Sport
15 Mini yo 6cSport
16 * El sonido de la gaita 6bSport
17 ** Vive dios 6bSport

1.22. Boquer Valley 0 routes in Crag

1.23. La Creveta 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 3.107619, 39.928280

1.23.1. Cara Norte 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** White Lightning 7a+Sport
2 *** Cara Norte 6bSport
3 *** Camomila 6aSport

1.23.2. Lion Rampant 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Over 30's Club 6b+Sport
2 * Craprabo 6b+Sport
3 ** Thirteen Fourteen 6b+Sport
4 ** Braveheart 7aSport
5 *** Lion Rampant 7aSport

1.23.3. Gringo Star 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Gringo Star 6b+Sport
2 *** Pammi-A 6b+Sport
3 *** Cool Max 7a+Sport
4 ** Frank Tapas 6c+Sport
5 * Much Azure About Nothing 7a+Sport
6 ** Azure Like It 6b+Sport
7 * Northern Exposure 6c+Sport

1.23.4. Main Wall 28 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Boulder Route 5cSport
2 * Nordkap 6b+Sport
3 *** Lord of the Rings / Südwand 4cSport
4 *** Coordina Coordinator 4cSport
5 *** Curset 4cSport
6 * Baba Diedro 4cSport 22m
7 * Camisasque 5aSport
8 * Krilin 6a+Sport 26m
9 ** Hyperion 6aSport 20m
10 Hyperion derecho 6a+Sport
11 ** El Corderos atacan de Nuevo 6b+Sport 20m
12 ** Jerita 6b+Sport
13 ** Hussein 6cSport
14 ** Terapia de grupo 6b+Sport
15 * Ca magre, puçes 6a+Sport
16 ** Ja me pagaràs 6cSport
17 ** Lastrolophithicus 6cSport
18 ** 150 Sipis 6bSport
19 ** Récords de Bunyola 6a+Sport
20 ** El Sant Crist 6a+Sport
21 ** Som-hi 6aSport
22 ** Ball o'en banyeta verda 6bSport
23 ** Somni bucolic 6bSport
24 * Glückspilz 4cSport
25 ** Black Streak 6a+Sport
26 * Leuchtturm 6b+Sport
27 * Just Married 6b+Sport
28 ** Angsthase 5cSport

1.24. Punta la Nao 0 routes in Crag

1.25. Xon Xanquete 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cachi kai 5cSport
2 * Chi craku 6b+Sport
3 * Tlanki xanki 7cSport
4 ** Fledi ulkel 8aSport
5 Fam un fumfi Sport
6 ** Xao xoxin 7cSport
7 * Kuki 7a+Sport
8 Teta blik Sport
9 Tlasmeditelanea Sport
10 Tila pa tlas 7b+Sport
11 Glillo aglidulce Sport
12 ** Xin xubi 7a+Sport
13 * Xao xina 7b+Sport
14 ** Xin xampu 7cSport
15 ** Brut Lee 7c+Sport
16 *** Xop suey de vaca loça 7a+Sport
17 Tai xixa 7c+Sport
18 NN 7cSport
19 *** Xin peldon 7aSport
20 Patxi aloz cena Sport Project
21 Xoriguer amb ximonada Sport Project
22 ** Quin fum fa 7b+Sport
23 * El cacho del chichi más chachi 6cSport
24 * Mao se la tu 5cSport
25 Route, what route? 5cSport

1.26. El Calo de Betlem 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.26.1. East Face 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sostre 7aSport
2 * Joan 90 6a+Sport
3 ** Wall Left 6a+Sport
4 ** Wall Right 6b+Sport
5 ** Fisura 5cSport
6 ** Wilow 6a+Sport
7 ** Juanma 7aSport

1.26.2. Es pasto 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Canal 6c+Sport
2 * La curta 7aSport
3 *** Es pasto 6b+Sport
4 *** Tequila Forever 7a+Sport
5 * Xupamela 6bSport

1.26.3. West Face 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Crozzly Wall 6bSport
2 ** Facil 5cSport
3 Almudaina 6aSport
4 Moro 8a+Sport
5 * Left-slanting Crack 6b+Sport
6 * Tot picat 7bSport
7 ** El nostro projecte 6cSport
8 Murto 6cSport

1.26.4. Subte 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horilous 7cSport
2 * Pin 6bSport
3 * Pon 7b+Sport
4 Tot Disney 7aSport
5 Yogui 7bSport
6 Bubu 7a+Sport
7 Bordillo 7aSport

1.27. Ermita de Betlem 59 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.27.1. Upper Crag 27 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Evaristo 7bSport
2 Doctore 6cSport
3 * Dream Team 6cSport
4 * Junior 6cSport
5 * Mimosin 5cSport
6 * Teletubi 5cSport
7 * Neutrex 6aSport
8 * Narit 6aSport
9 ** Dimoni cucarell 6b+Sport
10 ** Tato 7a+Sport
11 * Placebo 6cSport
12 ** Pirates 7b+Sport
13 * Planetas 7bSport
14 ** Satelites 7b+Sport
15 *** Punk Rocker 7c+Sport
16 ** Masai 7cSport
17 ** Escarabat pelut 7a+Sport
18 * Lolo 6c+Sport
19 * Maldita cocina 7aSport
20 * Scoop and Roof 7c+Sport
21 Zipi Sport
22 Zape Sport
23 * Eclipse 7cSport
24 ** Disbauxa 8aSport
25 * Extremadura 7a+Sport
26 * Ku Kus Klan 7b+Sport
27 The Far Right 6c+Sport

1.27.2. Lower Crag 32 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * White Musk 6b+Sport
2 ** Psicodelia 6c+Sport
3 * Tropical 7b+Sport
4 * Patranus 7b+Sport
5 ** Lobo estepario 7c+Sport
6 *** Sometimes 7cSport
7 *** Libido 7cSport
8 Muy mucho Sport
9 ** Mata mua 7cSport
10 ** Mauricio en el pais del vicio 7c+Sport
11 *** Alicia an el pais de la malicia 7c+Sport
12 ** Paranoid 8b+Sport
13 *** Amapolla 7b+Sport
14 ** Mazinger Z 7a+Sport
15 *** Decadencia 8a+Sport
16 * Osito 7b+Sport
17 *** Oso perezoso 8bSport
18 *** Sembrador de collias 8b+Sport
19 *** Magia 8bSport
20 *** Cubalibre 8cSport
21 ** Camino del exceso 8a+Sport
22 *** La sombra de cain 7c+Sport
23 *** Piltrafilla 7c+Sport
24 *** Septiembre negro 8aSport
25 *** Siniestro total 8bSport
26 Siniestro Right 8a+Sport
27 * Belle Epoque 6b+Sport
28 * Chin chan 6b+Sport
29 Plis-plas 6aSport
30 * Alquaeda 6bSport
31 * Wild widow 6b+Sport
32 * Frenada mariachi 6aSport

1.28. El Cuenco 0 routes in Crag

1.29. Cala Magraner 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 3.285804, 39.487148

1.29.1. Sector Cueva 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 3.284169, 39.488575

Description:

large cave close along the approach path

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Un tio conflictiu 7aSport
2 * Wall and Bulge 7c+Sport
3 * Nameless 7c+Sport
4 ** Imagine 7cSport
5 ** TNT 8aSport
6 *** Dingo 7c+Sport
7 *** Tufa Big 7b+Sport
8 *** Sand Bag 7b+Sport

1.29.2. Far Left 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 3.284433, 39.488166

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 S'hole 7a+Sport
2 Far Left 2 7bSport
3 Lagoon 7aSport

1.29.3. Sector Sense Voler 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 3.286649, 39.487133

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * First Wall 5Sport
2 * The Crack 6aSport
3 Crack Eliminate 6a+Sport
4 * Body Fatigue 6cSport
5 * Metal Fatigue 7a+Sport
6 Lladre de somnis 6cSport
7 * Ratanuit 6a+Sport
8 * Sense Voler 6aSport
9 ** Diagonal Pockets 6a+Sport
10 * Tiny 6bSport
11 The Big Red Stain 6cSport
12 * Tootsie 6b+Sport
13 * Mou els peus 6b+Sport
14 * Miguelín el travieso 6cSport
15 ** En pas descanse 5+Sport
16 New Line 5+Sport

1.29.4. Sector Pipiricot 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 3.287367, 39.486966

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cave Left 7a+Sport
2 ** Cave right 6bSport 20m
3 ** Sa nyoscla 6aSport 20m
4 ** Paramuero 5+Sport 20m
5 * Herbofilia 4Sport
6 *** Jardiners sense fronteres 3Sport
7 * Perelló 4+Sport
8 * Pixotades per ses galtes 6c+Sport
9 * Penta 6c+Sport
10 * Galiana m'engana 6cSport
11 ** Sa sesta 6b+Sport
12 Pripiricot

Hard start on old Bolts, but nice climb..

6b+Sport 16m
13 ** Wall and Groove 5+Sport 20m
14 * Florinotto 5Sport
15 Crack 5+Sport 20m
16 * Reachy 6b+Sport 18m

1.29.5. Sector Xorics 20 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 3.287969, 39.486547

Description:

right side of cliff close to sea

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Only you 6c+Sport
2 ** The Juggy One 5+Sport 23m
3 * Joc de mans 7aSport
4 Not Dangerous 6bSport
5 ** Nautilus 6aSport
6 *** Xorics 6b+Sport 21m
7 ** Repusai 6aSport
8 ** Staples 6a+Sport 22m
9 ** Beachcomber 6aSport 19m
10 *** Ses tres Maries 6a+Sport 21m
11 ** Asuqui 5+Sport 23m
12 ** Asulla 6b+Sport
13 ** L'amo de Baltix m'envia 6aSport
14 ** Captain Nemo 5+Sport 23m
15 * Jetsam 5+Sport 23m
16 *** El vigilant de la platja 4Sport
17 ** Clásica 5Sport
18 * Ses panxetes 6aSport
19 * Pilla, pilla 5+Sport
20 The final line 6b+Sport

1.30. Tijuana 62 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 3.149011, 39.327233

1.30.1. Tom and Jerry 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Left Wing 6aSport
2 ** Churrito y pelete 5aSport 16m
3 ** Tom and Jerry 5aSport
4 * Ebam 4cSport
5 * Ebamsa 5aSport

1.30.2. Tapas 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Commando Foracorda 7a+Sport
2 * Semen de trigo 6b+Sport
3 *** Finger Killer 6cSport
4 * Foot-hook 6cSport
5 * Es diedro 5cSport
6 * Vino tinto 6aSport
7 * Tapas 6a+Sport
8 * Blame it on the Rain 6c+Sport
9 Honeymoon 7aSport
10 Never Mind the Bollocks 7aSport
11 ** Xiscu que reiliscu 6b+Sport
12 ** Pupé de Roqué 6cSport

1.30.3. Escuelar de Calor 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Escuelar de calor 6b+Sport
2 ** Supersexi 7bSport
3 ** Un dimange à la campange 7aSport
4 ** Tocino for Pepino 7aSport
5 * Flesh for Dani 7bSport
6 Raixa 7cSport

1.30.4. Colesterol Party 13 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Come piedras 7b+Sport
2 * Cancamos 7bSport
3 *** Miquel's 7b+Sport
4 Old Amsterdam 8aSport
5 ** La calle de ritmo 7b+Sport
6 *** Psicomambo 6cSport
7 * La peli 7bSport
8 *** Cocina ligera 7bSport
9 ** Na c'al les Seychelles 7bSport
10 *** Colesterol Party 6a+Sport 24m
11 Batchcamp 7a+Sport
12 To quisqui me toca 7aSport
13 Evola 8aSport

1.30.5. Poseidon 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Raiworld 8bSport
2 Calabruix 8bSport
3 *** Poseidon 7bSport
4 *** Chuteur fou 7b+Sport
5 *** Go Johnny 8aSport
6 *** Rompepiernas 7aSport
7 Naranje 7aSport
8 ** Espolón 6cSport
9 * Casting 6b+Sport
10 * Executive Producer 6c+Sport
11 Cumoshot 6c+Sport
12 Screenplay 6cSport

1.30.6. Den Jaume 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Trencaclosques 6a+Sport
2 S'alegria 6c+Sport
3 *** Sa pena 7aSport
4 ** Postal Service 7a+Sport
5 ** High and Wild Left 6cSport
6 High and Wild Direct 6cSport
7 Tijuana 8a+Sport
8 Sa des plastics 7b+Sport
9 Welcome to Paradise 7b+Sport
10 *** Perestroica 8c+Sport
11 ** Costa sud 6cSport
12 * Costa sud right 6bSport
13 Ubuntu 6c+Sport
14 * Totsol com un mussol 6b+Sport

1.31. Cala Marçal 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

1.31.1. Cala Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Marçal Traverse 5+DWS 20m
2 Rat Dog 6aDWS 5m

1.31.2. Main Cliff 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Fat Crab 6b+DWS 15m
2 * Hellraiser 6bDWS
3 ** ET v Predator 6bDWS 14m
4 *** Mortal Combat 6b+DWS 14m
5 * The Odyssey 5aDWS 36m
6 * Canada 4aDWS 10m
7 * Aquafresh 6cDWS 11m
8 ** Lady Boys 5cDWS 11m
9 ** Higher than the Sun 6aDWS 11m
10 ** Tekken 2 7aDWS
11 ** Groove Rider 6a+DWS 12m
12 * Hoy Voy de Guiri 6aDWS
13 Hip-Hop to the Top 6a+DWS
14 ** Time 6aDWS 13m

1.32. El Fumat 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

1.32.1. Duke 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ziritione 6a+Sport
2 *** Apendre tort 7aSport
3 *** Duke 6bSport 30m
4 *** Duquesa 7bSport
5 *** Mercury 6b+Sport

1.32.2. Free Tibet 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Rafael Borrás 6b+Sport
2 * Na Palonia 5cSport 15m
3 * Colorado 5cSport 15m
4 Old Bolts 5cSport
5 Popeye 7c+Sport
6 Hostal Paraiso 7bSport
7 Citroën 7bSport
8 * Free Tibet 7aSport
9 ** En Miquel está fumat 6cSport
10 * Ghandi 6b+Sport
11 * Obelix 6c+Sport
12 * Obi Wan 6bSport
13 * El martell de Thor 6cSport
14 Vívora 6bSport
15 Uudos 6a+Sport

1.33. Porto Pi 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pepelink

FA: Miquel Riera

6bDWS
2 * Pilar

FA: Miquel Riera

6bDWS
3 ** Mucho mi

FA: Miquel Riera

8b+DWS
4 * Meca 7bDWS
5 ** Cuquets

FA: Miquel Riera

6bDWS
6 Jaume

FA: Miquel Riera

6aDWS
7 Sa primera

FA: Miquel Riera

6aDWS

1.34. Puig St. Marti 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 3.097886, 39.831709

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rata pinyada 5cSport
2 Chispita 6aSport
3 Sostre del murero 6aSport
4 * Blancanieves 6aSport
5 * Tramontana fuerza 5cSport
6 Pa los abuelos 4aSport
7 Tufolandia 6aSport
8 Langostino 6bSport
9 ** Tio listo 5cSport
10 * Atila 6aSport
11 * Alzheimer 5cSport
12 ** La Mosca 4cSport
13 ** 100 duros 4cSport
14 * Pedorretas 4cSport
15 * 7 vidas y una más 4cSport
16 Bad lower-off 5cSport

1.35. Castell de Santueri 0 routes in Crag

Access Issues:

Climbing is now permanently banned by the new owners of the castle!

1.36. Son Servera 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pasqualín 6aSport
2 Reset Sport
3 * Beirut 7cSport
4 ** No vull ser com tu 7cSport
5 Musaka Sport Project
6 *** Be good 8aSport
7 *** Fido Dido 7bSport
8 ** Google 7c+Sport
9 ** Kudota 8aSport

1.37. Sa Mola de Felanitx 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 3.140282, 39.469933

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Na llarga 6a+Sport
2 * Sa figuera 5cSport
3 * Na curta 6aSport
4 Se mes dificil 6aSport
5 Es crui 5aSport
6 Sa rampa 4aSport
7 Sa cova 5aSport
8 Darrera sa pared 5aSport

1.38. Cova del Diablo 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

1.38.1. Surfing Bird Area 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Italian Job 6bDWS
2 * Swing Both Ways 6cDWS
3 *** Surfing Bird 7bDWS
4 ** Blue Tuna 6c+DWS
5 ** Let's Have It! 7c+DWS
6 *** Iguanodon 7bDWS
7 * Microdot 7bDWS
8 * Dancing Fool 7cDWS
9 * Beware of Limbo Dancers 8a+DWS
10 ** Surfing in the Bar 7aDWS
11 * Hip Hop 7b+DWS
12 ** Surfer Dead 6c+DWS

1.38.2. The Lobster Area 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sea Devil 7aDWS
2 *** The Lobster 6c+DWS
3 * Life is too Short to Spend it on Cheap Champagne 7cDWS
4 ** Right Here, Right Now 8a+DWS
5 ** Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels 8a+DWS
6 *** Ejector Seat 7cDWS
7 ** In the Night, Every Cat is Black 8aDWS
8 ** Hair Bear 7c+DWS
9 ** Ronatron 7c+DWS
10 *** Afroman 7bDWS
11 ** Whiplash 7cDWS
12 *** Calamares 6b+DWS

1.38.3. White Noise Area 12 routes in Sector

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Superwoman 7a+DWS
2 *** Dogging Romp 6a+DWS
3 * First Impressions 6aDWS
4 *** Slice of Heaven 5aDWS
5 ** Eternal Flame 5cDWS
6 Felix 5cDWS
7 ** Bonobo 5cDWS
8 * Retronobo 5cDWS
9 *** White Noise 5cDWS
10 Tits-Up Traverse 6aDWS
11 Big Bully 6a+DWS