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This really is a world class cliff, perfect pocket pulling on long vertical walls. Two finger pocket after two finger pocket after two finger pocket....

Access issues inherited from Montsant

The sectors west of Sant Joan have a climbing ban between 31 Dec and 1 Jul. Signs also claim that no new routes are allowed.


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The next 3 routes have shade until about 10.30 AM.

First pitch 7a. The first 7 bolted at Montsant, around the year 2000 amazingly enough.

Set by Toni Arbones

A 70m rope is just enough to lower off, but no less. This and the next 10 routes have shade until about 11.15 AM.

First pitch 7c

FFA: Toni Arbones

First pitch 8a+

First pitch 8a

28m 8a to first anchor. The first 8 done in Montsant. Shade until 2 PM.

Set by Toni Arbones

First pitch 8a+

Possibly the hardest trad climb in Catalunya. Requires tricams, C3s, very large cams, etc. Some important placements are not obvious.

FFA: Toni Arbones

Starts up the steep black flake about 10m R of the major vegetated crack/chimney.

Set by Toni Arbones, 2016

The L-trending black streaks up the middle of the shady steep wall. Start as for the earlier 7c.

Set by Toni Arbones, 2016

Would be the best route at many crags but around here it never gets done.

Reportedly could do with another bolt but looks amazing despite the lack of ascents.

Starts up the white corner/flake on the R end of the shady steep wall. Not sure if goes to the top or maybe it will get an anchor at around the 30m mark. Estimated around the 7a+/b mark during bolting.

Set by Toni Arbones, Sep 2016

The leaning white wall 5m R of White Proj for 25m, onto a 15m 'slab', to an incredible steeper 20m headwall.

1 6b+
2 7c
  1. 30m 6b+. The grey face to a stance. 2) 15m 7c. This pitch starts up the impressive leaning headwall but unfortunately only makes it part of the way.

Monster single pitch on vertical shady wall 100m R of Hidrofobia (50m R of the steep shady wall). Start on high perch in corner approached via 8m knotted rope, then drift R up the endless wall forever on unlimited pockets. Shade until 6 PM or later. Needs a 70m rope & a re-thread on descent.

Set by Toni Arbones

FA: Will Monks


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