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Summary

Tivissa is and unknown climbing area offering world class climbs, both trad and sport, located only 90 miles S of Barcelona (Catalonia), and 12 miles inland from the Mediterranean sea. There are nearly 500 routes and more developments are being carried on. The new, updated guidebook will be avilable before summer (aliverock@yahoo.com).

Description

Limestone area, many different formations of all aspects (climbing confortable year round). Footwork is essential, and handholds are dropplets and crimps with some jugholds and a good dose of crack climbing of all sorts, from thin fingers to chimneys. Hi-tech aid is also available. The bulk of the free climbing routes fall within the 5c-6c range, being easier and especially harder ones abundant.

Access issues

Drive on AP-7 motorway (toll!) take exit #38 and follow Tivissa signposting. 1h30min from Barcelona airport.

Approach

Ask locals and get a guidebbok copy (aliverock@yahoo.com). There are no access issues because the place is uncrowded, but most rocks are on private land, so be respectful with locals and carry out all that you bring in, and a bit more. Bird nesting closures apply, are signposted and are enforced, so please do not cheat!

Where to stay

Local camping, a reasonable priced hotel, or under the stars (be polite, clean and keep a low profile).

Ethic

Do not add bolts to existing routes! Do not cut trees nor bushes. Respect birds, insects, lizards and any living being in general.

History

A.Brull and J.M.Anglada established a couple routes in early 70's. 99% of everything else has been established by Josep E. Castellnou, starting on mid 80's and development still continues today. All fixed gear, bolts and any expenses paid by that climber! 500-plus routes to date... and counting!

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
6c *** Missamantdell Unknown 120m, 6

World class climb on flawless limestone. Great route featuring nice face climb on edgy handholds on 1st pitch, and demanding liebacking on 2nd pitch. 3rd pitch short and easy. bring only stoppers.Best season:Sept. thru Dec.

FA: A.Ballart, J.E. Castellnou, 1987

2
5c ** Casiquiare Mixed 110m, 8

Great wall climb where the hardest comes first. Running just left of the mega-classic Barbarroig, this is more sustained and its crux is more awkward. That said, the rock is clean, photogenic and superb. Fully fixed, most parties will want a med size cam or nut to protect a mild runout from pitch 1 bolt 2 to 3.

FA: J.Verdaguer, M.De Rialp, 1987

3
5c *** Barbarroig Mixed 110m, 6

Great introductory route to the area, featuring perfect limestone face climbing with jugholds, the occasional frictiony slab and the exciting top moverlap. Completely fixed with bolts, pins and loopholes. This route is the easiest in the Missamantdell crag.

FA: J.E.Castellnou

FFA: Josep E. Castellnou, 1989

4
6a+ *** Michael Jordan Sport 65m, 9

Great limestone climb facing West and overlooking the town (Tivissa). The rock is superb (Verdon-like limestone) and the route's second pitch may well be the best 6a+ pitch on Earth... Just get good climbing shoes and know how to use your feet.

FFA: Josep E. Castellnou, 1997

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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