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Summary

Fantastic easy access crag with an awesome view over Kalvfjärden. Great routes in the grade 5-6 region.

Description

The best description is found here: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/klattring/gritstoneberget in Swedish.

Ethic

No new bolts or rebolting is allowed.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5b ** Den joggande myran Trad 16m

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

FA: Rikard Hedman, Lars Svadängs

2
4a *** Amandas lov Trad 16m

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Lars Grankvist, Lars Johansson

3
6b+ * Jinx Mixed 16m, 1

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs

4
6b *** Svettiga grisen Trad 16m

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs

5

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

FA: Björn Myrer Lund

6
5a *** Stäppvargen Trad 16m

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

FA: Lars Svadängs, Kenneth Nolkrantz

7
FR 6b ** Tveksamma Skorpionen Trad 16m

First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.

8
6c Tveksamma trender Mixed 16m, 1

FA: Lars Svadängs, Christer Åstrand

9

First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.

10
5+ ** Skorpionen Trad 16m
11
6c ** Himmel blå Mixed 15m, 1

FA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber

12

FA: Choe Brooks, Jan Liliemark

13

This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.

14

This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.

15
5c to 6a+ *** No exit Trad 15m

FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, 1980

16
6b+ ** Examen Mixed 15m, 2

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs

17
5c to 6a ** Björntjänst Trad 15m

FFA: Björn Alber, Anna Groth, 1987

18
6b ** Urkki Trad 14m

FA: Petri Lintinen

19
6c Shift/Control Mixed 14m, 1

Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top.

FFA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber, 1986

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