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Table of contents

1. Gritstoneberget 19 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 18.395657, 59.199098

Unique Features And Strengths:

Fantastic easy access crag with an awesome view over Kalvfjärden. Great routes in the grade 5-6 region.


The best description is found here: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/klattring/gritstoneberget in Swedish.


No new bolts or rebolting is allowed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Den joggande myran

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

FA: Rikard Hedman, Lars Svadängs

5bTrad 16m
2 *** Amandas lov

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Lars Grankvist, Lars Johansson

4aTrad 16m
3 * Jinx

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs

6b+Mixed 16m, 1
4 *** Svettiga grisen

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs

6bTrad 16m
5 *** Svettiga grisen (variation)

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

FA: Björn Myrer Lund

6b+Trad 16m
6 *** Stäppvargen

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

FA: Lars Svadängs, Kenneth Nolkrantz

5aTrad 16m
7 Tveksamma Skorpionen

First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.

6bTrad 16m
8 Tveksamma trender

FA: Lars Svadängs, Christer Åstrand

6cMixed 16m, 1
9 ** Skorpionens trender

First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.

6cTrad 16m
10 Skorpionen 5+Trad 16m
11 ** Himmel blå

FA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber

6cMixed 15m, 1
12 * Tvivelaktiga tendenser

FA: Choe Brooks, Jan Liliemark

6bTrad 15m
13 Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1)

This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.

6bTrad 15m
14 Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2)

This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.

6bTrad 15m
15 *** No exit

FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, 1980

5c to 6a+Trad 15m
16 ** Examen

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs

6b+Mixed 15m, 2
17 ** Björntjänst

FFA: Björn Alber, Anna Groth, 1987

5c to 6aTrad 15m
18 ** Urkki

FA: Petri Lintinen

6bTrad 14m
19 Shift/Control

Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top.

FFA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber, 1986

6cMixed 14m, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4a *** Amandas lov Trad 16m
5a *** Stäppvargen Trad 16m
5b ** Den joggande myran Trad 16m
5+ Skorpionen Trad 16m
5c to 6a ** Björntjänst Trad 15m
5c to 6a+ *** No exit Trad 15m
6b *** Svettiga grisen Trad 16m
Tveksamma Skorpionen Trad 16m
* Tvivelaktiga tendenser Trad 15m
Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1) Trad 15m
Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2) Trad 15m
** Urkki Trad 14m
6b+ ** Examen Mixed 15m, 2
* Jinx Mixed 16m, 1
*** Svettiga grisen (variation) Trad 16m
6c ** Himmel blå Mixed 15m, 1
Shift/Control Mixed 14m, 1
** Skorpionens trender Trad 16m
Tveksamma trender Mixed 16m, 1