A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Gritstoneberget 22 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 18.395657, 59.199098

Unique Features And Strengths:

Fantastic easy access crag with an awesome view over Kalvfjärden. Great routes in the grade 5-6 region.


The best description is found here: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/klattring/gritstoneberget in Swedish.


No new bolts or rebolting is allowed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Slå mig med slickepotten

Start up a few meters left of the block on the ground (Tummeliten) where there is a crack, then red rock (run out), thereafter a small dieder. Aim towards the pine tree close to the top.

FA: Claes Jelinek,Martin Andersson, 1986

{FR} 6+ Trad 15m
2 * Tummeliten

Starts on top of the block on the ground. A few meters up is crack which starts with a hole.

FA: Lars Grankvist,Lars Svadängs, 1981

{FR} 6 Trad 16m
3 ** Den joggande myran

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

FA: Rikard Hedman, Lars Svadängs

{FR} 5b Trad 16m
4 *** Amandas lov

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Lars Grankvist, Lars Johansson

{FR} 4a Trad 16m
5 * Jinx

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs

{FR} 6b+ Mixed 16m, 1
6 *** Svettiga grisen

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

FA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs

{FR} 6b Trad 16m
7 *** Svettiga grisen (variation)

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

FA: Björn Myrer Lund

{FR} 6b+ Trad 16m
8 *** Stäppvargen

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

FA: Lars Svadängs, Kenneth Nolkrantz

{FR} 5a Trad 16m
9 Tveksamma Skorpionen

First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.

{US} FR:6b Trad 16m
10 Tveksamma trender

FA: Lars Svadängs, Christer Åstrand

{FR} 6c Mixed 16m, 1
11 ** Skorpionens trender

First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.

{FR} 6c Trad 16m
12 Skorpionen {FR} 5+ Trad 16m
13 ** Himmel blå

FA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber

{FR} 6c Mixed 15m, 1
14 * Tvivelaktiga tendenser

FA: Choe Brooks, Jan Liliemark

{FR} 6b Trad 15m
15 Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1)

This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.

{FR} 6b Trad 15m
16 Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2)

This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.

{FR} 6b Trad 15m
17 * Mental istid

Start up using the thin crack to the left of No exit. Thereafter travers right and continue upjust beside No exit to the top. Tricky to protect, use micro-cams and nuts.

FA: @josit67, 2014

FFA: @josit67,Adam Montén Kovacs, 2014

{FR} 6+ Trad 15m
18 *** No exit

FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, 1980

{FR} 5c to 6a+ Trad 15m
19 ** Examen

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs

{FR} 6b+ Mixed 15m, 2
20 ** Björntjänst

FFA: Björn Alber, Anna Groth, 1987

{FR} 5c to 6a Trad 15m
21 ** Urkki

FA: Petri Lintinen

{FR} 6b Trad 14m
22 Shift/Control

Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top.

FFA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber, 1986

{FR} 6c Mixed 14m, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4a *** Amandas lov Trad 16m
5a *** Stäppvargen Trad 16m
5b ** Den joggande myran Trad 16m
5+ Skorpionen Trad 16m
5c to 6a ** Björntjänst Trad 15m
5c to 6a+ *** No exit Trad 15m
6b *** Svettiga grisen Trad 16m
Tveksamma Skorpionen Trad 16m
* Tvivelaktiga tendenser Trad 15m
Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1) Trad 15m
Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2) Trad 15m
** Urkki Trad 14m
6 * Tummeliten Trad 16m
6b+ ** Examen Mixed 15m, 2
* Jinx Mixed 16m, 1
*** Svettiga grisen (variation) Trad 16m
6c ** Himmel blå Mixed 15m, 1
Shift/Control Mixed 14m, 1
** Skorpionens trender Trad 16m
Tveksamma trender Mixed 16m, 1
6+ * Mental istid Trad 15m
** Slå mig med slickepotten Trad 15m