A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 18.395657, 59.199098
- Unique Features And Strengths:
Fantastic easy access crag with an awesome view over Kalvfjärden. Great routes in the grade 5-6 region.
The best description is found here: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/klattring/gritstoneberget in Swedish.
No new bolts or rebolting is allowed.
Slå mig med slickepotten
Start up a few meters left of the block on the ground (Tummeliten) where there is a crack, then red rock (run out), thereafter a small dieder. Aim towards the pine tree close to the top.
FA: Claes Jelinek,Martin Andersson, 1986
Starts on top of the block on the ground. A few meters up is crack which starts with a hole.
FA: Lars Grankvist,Lars Svadängs, 1981
Den joggande myran
Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.
FA: Rikard Hedman, Lars Svadängs
(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.
FA: Lars Grankvist, Lars Johansson
Thin climbing with poor protection. One old bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.
FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs
(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget
FA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs
Svettiga grisen (variation)
(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.
FA: Björn Myrer Lund
(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.
FA: Lars Svadängs, Kenneth Nolkrantz
First half is Tveksamma trender, while the second part is Skorpionen. Fantastic straight up line making it a sustained 6b with a couple of meters rest in the central part of the climb.
FA: Lars Svadängs, Christer Åstrand
First half is Skorpionen (5c overhang) and the final part is Tveksamma trender's top crux. This is also a great variation making the routse more straight lines.
FA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber
FA: Choe Brooks, Jan Liliemark
Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1)
This variation uses the same start, but goes straight up to the left of the "whole". Straight line.
Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2)
This variation start 2 meters to the right in the thin crack, thereafter straight up to the crux of the route. Very limited protection, ground fall potential for several meters.
Start up using the thin crack to the left of No exit. Thereafter travers right and continue upjust beside No exit to the top. Tricky to protect, use micro-cams and nuts.
FA: @josit67, 2014
FFA: @josit67,Adam Montén Kovacs, 2014
FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, 1980
|5c to 6a+||15m|
Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.
FA: Björn Alber, Lars Svadängs
FFA: Björn Alber, Anna Groth, 1987
|5c to 6a||15m|
FA: Petri Lintinen
Start just to the right of the Urrki crack. AIM for the finger crack below the bolt. Pass the bolt and continue up towards the next crack which leads to the top.
FFA: Lars Svadängs, Björn Alber, 1986
|5b||Den joggande myran||16m|
|5c to 6a||Björntjänst||15m|
|5c to 6a+||No exit||15m|
|Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 1)||15m|
|Tvivelaktiga tendenser (Variation 2)||15m|
|Svettiga grisen (variation)||16m|
|Slå mig med slickepotten||15m|