Ascents in Örnberget having Beta

Tried a looong time ago. Easier if you are tall, but very fun climb!

Fantastic climb, very technical, with small holds in the right places. Maybe a bit too many tickmarks for an onsight! Felt easyer than 7a.

Very nice climbing for a 6a in stockholm, more overhanging that it looks. Good warmup!

Cruxy. Tricky and slightly scary start.

Cruxy. Tricky and slightly scary start. Anchor is in a weird place; too high to clip comfortably. I don't think it's significantly easier than Nubben i snöret.

Quite tricky in parts.

To first anchor. Nice and technical climbing,took some time to figure out!

Was a fight, skipped the last draw bacuse too pumped! Its a good route but pretty committing at the top, and a bit loose in places.

7 years in the making! Felt very good today, if you have good shoes and good balance its not too bad.

Who graded this 6a?

Very hard,cruxy start, the rest is easy

Boulder in the roof at the start, then 6b or so.

No-hands rests alternating with overhanging boulder problems on jugs.

Sustained.

Tricky boulder problem in the start, then easy.

It's a boulder on rope. Some not-very-secure clips.

Bouldery start, scary part in the middle, tricky at the end on sidepull slopers.

Finally sent! Very nice climb, hard start and pumpy ending, was a challenge!

Rolig träningsled. Tagit mer tid att få ihop än de flesta andra leder jag gjort i år.

For the crag this is harder than both Panta and Orup as it demands much finer technique and beautiful moves that you can be creative in solving. Recommended

Nice climb, rally hard start followed by good flowy climbing to the top. Too pumped from panta rei to send today.

3rd attempt felt really good, got up to the ledge, 2 draws from the top. From there i needed one hang at each draw, but starting to feel possible.

Too wet and too tired so just was working first 5 bolts. Move to 5th bolt still not going well...

Been 2 years since I was on it. Was damp. Went on 3rd go today, felt good despite the difficulty of the damp rock. Was raining

Lots of rests, focusing on learning an effective beta. Linkup will be a challenge.

After working out an efficient solution to the early crux, it went well. Not as technical as it is sustained. Perma draws on the route these days making it super accessible.

Got on this at the end. I have to remember the left crimp pinch to get up to the clip before the crux starts... Also that the first "serious" clip after the Orup start is clipped best from the biggest hold below, rather than continuing to bump the hand up

Worked the first 5 bolts. First 4 I did in isolation but each move went first go, just have to get clip spots. Then I spent a long time trying to get to the 5th. I think I figured it out going left into the direkt insteg near that bolt, and some kind of drop knee to match on the clip hold and bump or cross to the crimp. But now I'm very uncertain how to clip the one above it, and get through the crux. That's going to take work and feels demotivating. It seemed impossible :S

Had some issues getting to the last bolt, and it got dark. The parts I climbed I really liked, big moves on nice rock.

Did not like all the loose blocks too much.

Made a pathetic warm-up attempt using this route today but it didn't feel good at all compared to the other time I tried it. Felt so insecure with the clips for some reason. Holds were a bit damp still from rain yesterday

Got it! Didn't really top out though. Clipped and stood there with feet below anchor using left side pull... Then tried to top out after to the right to really stand on the ledge and be more above the bolts ... Failed then. But managed my pump well and finally could get into the send mentality again which I'm happy about. Hadn't tried it since last Summer like in June or so

First try in a year. Start was difficult. But top didn't feel as scary as last year

Worked first 4 bolts again. Got the moves a bit more solid, they make more sense... Not where to clip though yet

body direction is where it's at

Led first 4 bolts hang dogging up. Worked on moves and clipping positions. Intense even there but feels more doable than Siddharta. Throws in precise core tension moves. Very "on" immediately compared to e.g. Bad Boys or Vinna eller försvinna, better jugs and holds than Siddharta, more intuitive

Stick clipped all but 3 draws of the first 8. Feels slightly easier than Siddharta but still have many questions

I tried this twice today. It feels much harder than vinna eller försvinna or bad boys, the first 7 bolts only have like 2 possible clips... After bolt 8 it feels much easier and fun, although I couldn't go to the top, spinning bolt. Not sure I want to project this. It seems almost impossible. Maybe it's just the heat?

This took me many many sessions to piece together because of my meniscus tear and not being able to rest with my beta (everyone else has a high knee rest if they want to). When it finally went, it was cooler weather. On the second go I had a new high point, and everything just went well for the 3rd go when I finally stopped stressing

Dogged all the way to the lip on my first and only go, managed not to grab any QDs. Holds all felt good. This might be my style. Not sure how to clip the one at the lip. The next move is going to be committing. Granted it is like 6c-7a climbing to the lip and not so hard. This would be a good project for me I think.