Båthamnen (Boat Marina) All trad climbing

3 routes in area

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Description

The slab by the stairs up the cliff from the boat marina.

Approach

3minute walk from the parking, following the path towards the waterfront and boat marina

Routes

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Grade Route
1
6a Spräckliga bandet Trad 30m

Starts by the pine tree a bit up the on the slab. Be aware of the loose heavy flakes. Climb carefully by the flakes up to the right in the groove to the right of the slab, step out left on the slab and continue up the crack to the top. Nice climbing with some runouts.

FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, Anniki Liliemark, 1980

2
5a to 5b+ Talleken Trad 40m

Starts by the arch roof to the right of previous route. Follow the arch to the birch tree, thereafter straight up following the cracks up to a tiny but good belay by the oak/pine tree. (2) Continue up the dihedral and move right at the end. The finish follows a crack in a slab where you find the crux.

FFA: Buster Delin, Jonas Paulsson, 1991

3

Start 5m left of the original start in the dirty dihedral on the right wall. Fantastic limestone like pockets together with a crack at the top where the arch finishes make this variation a worthwhile variation. The pockets and the crack enables protection of the first part. Traverse back towards the tree and continue up the original route.

FA: Johan Sandberg, 2012