Parkeringsväggen All trad climbing

3 routes in area

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Description

This area covers all the cliffs from the parking to the boat marina.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
FR 5a Ormplattan Trad 40m

The route follows the obvious dihedral by the parkingarea. Start either in the dihedral (awkward offwith) or 2 meters to the right. Continue up the crack in the dihedral with beautiful moves and bomber pros. Thereafter, it becomes loose and dodgy for a couple of meters until you reach the trees and the bealy area above these. A perfect #2 nut can be placed prior the dodgy part.

Second pitch follows the prominent crack to the right, or go for the finger crack in the left corner (5b). Both variations leead to the top with a true summmit feeling and a marvelous view over "Kalvfjärden".

Descent: Continue by foot through the woods keeping left lookout for the long wooden stairs and climb down these which passes the area "Spräckliga bandet".

2
FR 6a Vipera Trad 10m

At the first belay of Ormplattan, travers left until you reach a prominent hand crack, climb it to the top.

FFA: Per Calleberg, Peter Brolin, 1990

3
FR 5b Knulliamo Trad 6m

Starts 15 - 20 meters from "Ormplattan", two tiny finger cracks with acceptable pros. From Omplattan, walk on the first ramp passing a pine tree/bush thereafter you are on a new ramp, where you find the climb a bit to the left..

FFA: Johan Sandberg, Catrine Sandberg, 2011