Noret Crag guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Johan Sandberg

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Noret 51 in Crag
- 1.1. Terrierväggen 17 in Area
- 1.2. Röda Lacket väggen 23 in Area
- 1.3. Båthamnen (Boat Marina) 3 in Area
- 1.4. Parkeringsväggen 3 in Area
- 1.5. Båthamnen 5 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Noret 51 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Trad or Sport

1.1. Terrierväggen 17 routes in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Ödets makt	7a+	Unknown
2	Arnington road	7b	Unknown
3	Alt insteg till Arnington...	7b+	Unknown
4	Claver	6b	Unknown
5	Tier	6c+	Unknown
6	Altermaan	7a+	Unknown
7	Engel	7a	Unknown
8	Bestraffe mich	7c	Unknown
9	Buckdych	7c+	Unknown
10	Du hast mich	7c	Unknown
11	Kyss mich	7c+	Unknown
12	Tsatsiki	6b+	Unknown
13	Morsan	7a	Unknown
14	Polisen	6c+	Unknown
15	Timbuktu	6a	Unknown
16	Terrier	6b	Unknown
17	Toker	6a	Unknown

1.2. Röda Lacket väggen 23 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Medlut	5c	Sport 4	Johan Sandberg 9 months ago Out climbing with David & Kicki with the kids. Felt ok, although with a slight wine headache. Johan Sandberg 10 months ago Climbed with Patrik. Thin crux. 6a/6a+, I would say.
2	Den ensamma borrbulten		Unknown
3	Diagonalen	4c	Unknown
4	Ettan	4c	Unknown	Johan Sandberg 1 years ago Climbed together with Fredrik, Catrine and the kids.
5	Isbiten	5c	Unknown	Johan Sandberg 9 months ago Out climbing with David & Kicki with the kids. Felt ok, although with a slight wine headache. Johan Sandberg 10 months ago Climbed with Patrik. The crux is very thin. 5c is not too hard for its grade.
6	Ebbe	6a	Unknown	Johan Sandberg 9 months ago The start after the piton, is the mental trick. If I can fix that, I will be able to lead it. Johan Sandberg 10 months ago Climbed with Patrik. Extremely thin by the crux including the protection. I will return and se if...
7	Ödets makt	7a+	Unknown
8	Agent Luhr ser rött	7c	Unknown
9	Svåra diedret	7c	Unknown
10	General	5a	Unknown	Johan Sandberg 1 years ago Difficult at the top - 5a is very tough for its grade.
11	Tissel Tassel	6b	Unknown	Johan Sandberg 1 years ago Second bolt rest, then went left.
12	Röda Lacket	6a	Unknown
13	Snoken	6c	Unknown
14	Kaxi	7b	Unknown
15	Livet är underbart	7c+	Unknown
16	?	7c	Unknown
17	??	7b	Unknown
18	Stor dum pung	6a	Unknown
19	???	6c	Unknown
20	?????	7c	Unknown
21	Kylskåpet	6a	Unknown
22	????	7b	Unknown
23	Singalong	7b+	Unknown

1.3. Båthamnen (Boat Marina) 3 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad,Top Rope
Description:: The slab by the stairs up the cliff from the boat marina.
Approach:: 3minute walk from the parking, following the path towards the waterfront and boat marina

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	Spräckliga bandet Starts by the pine tree a bit up the on the slab. Be aware of the loose heavy flakes. Climb carefully by the flakes up to the right in the groove to the right of the slab, step out left on the slab and continue up the crack to the top. Nice climbing with some runouts. FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, Anniki Liliemark, 1980	6a	Trad 30m
2	Talleken Starts by the arch roof to the right of previous route. Follow the arch to the birch tree, thereafter straight up following the cracks up to a tiny but good belay by the oak/pine tree. (2) Continue up the dihedral and move right at the end. The finish follows a crack in a slab where you find the crux. FFA: Buster Delin, Jonas Paulsson, 1991	5a to 5b+	Trad 40m	Johan Sandberg 12 months ago Clogged after cleaning the second pitch. Thin finish.
3	Tallekens direktinsteg Start 5m left of the original start in the dirty dihedral on the right wall. Fantastic limestone like pockets together with a crack at the top where the arch finishes make this variation a worthwhile variation. The pockets and the crack enables protection of the first part. Traverse back towards the tree and continue up the original route. FA: Johan Sandberg, 2012	5b	Trad 8m	Johan Sandberg 12 months ago Clogged after cleaning this variation.

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Spräckliga bandet

Starts by the pine tree a bit up the on the slab. Be aware of the loose heavy flakes. Climb carefully by the flakes up to the right in the groove to the right of the slab, step out left on the slab and continue up the crack to the top. Nice climbing with some runouts.

FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, Anniki Liliemark, 1980

Trad 30m

Talleken

Starts by the arch roof to the right of previous route. Follow the arch to the birch tree, thereafter straight up following the cracks up to a tiny but good belay by the oak/pine tree. (2) Continue up the dihedral and move right at the end. The finish follows a crack in a slab where you find the crux.

FFA: Buster Delin, Jonas Paulsson, 1991

5a to 5b+

Trad 40m

Johan Sandberg 12 months ago

Clogged after cleaning the second pitch. Thin finish.

Tallekens direktinsteg

Start 5m left of the original start in the dirty dihedral on the right wall. Fantastic limestone like pockets together with a crack at the top where the arch finishes make this variation a worthwhile variation. The pockets and the crack enables protection of the first part. Traverse back towards the tree and continue up the original route.

FA: Johan Sandberg, 2012

Trad 8m

Johan Sandberg 12 months ago

Clogged after cleaning this variation.

1.4. Parkeringsväggen 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad
Description:: This area covers all the cliffs from the parking to the boat marina.

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	Ormplattan The route follows the obvious dihedral by the parkingarea. Start either in the dihedral (awkward offwith) or 2 meters to the right. Continue up the crack in the dihedral with beautiful moves and bomber pros. Thereafter, it becomes loose and dodgy for a couple of meters until you reach the trees and the bealy area above these. A perfect #2 nut can be placed prior the dodgy part. Second pitch follows the prominent crack to the right, or go for the finger crack in the left corner (5b). Both variations leead to the top with a true summmit feeling and a marvelous view over "Kalvfjärden". Descent: Continue by foot through the woods keeping left lookout for the long wooden stairs and climb down these which passes the area "Spräckliga bandet".	5a	Trad 40m	Johan Sandberg 1 years ago Climbed with Patrik. Almost scrued up the start by using the right crack for my right foot. One m... Johan Sandberg 2 years ago Climbed with Catrine. Climbed the top right crack.
2	Vipera At the first belay of Ormplattan, travers left until you reach a prominent hand crack, climb it to the top. FFA: Per Calleberg, Peter Brolin, 1990	6a	Trad 10m
3	Knulliamo Starts 15 - 20 meters from "Ormplattan", two tiny finger cracks with acceptable pros. From Omplattan, walk on the first ramp passing a pine tree/bush thereafter you are on a new ramp, where you find the climb a bit to the left.. FFA: Johan Sandberg, Catrine Sandberg, 2011	5b	Trad 6m	Johan Sandberg 2 years ago Dirty but nice, needs cleaning. Good pro when you know where to put it.

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Ormplattan

The route follows the obvious dihedral by the parkingarea. Start either in the dihedral (awkward offwith) or 2 meters to the right. Continue up the crack in the dihedral with beautiful moves and bomber pros. Thereafter, it becomes loose and dodgy for a couple of meters until you reach the trees and the bealy area above these. A perfect #2 nut can be placed prior the dodgy part.

Second pitch follows the prominent crack to the right, or go for the finger crack in the left corner (5b). Both variations leead to the top with a true summmit feeling and a marvelous view over "Kalvfjärden".

Descent: Continue by foot through the woods keeping left lookout for the long wooden stairs and climb down these which passes the area "Spräckliga bandet".

Trad 40m

Johan Sandberg 1 years ago

Climbed with Patrik. Almost scrued up the start by using the right crack for my right foot. One m...

Johan Sandberg 2 years ago

Climbed with Catrine. Climbed the top right crack.

Vipera

At the first belay of Ormplattan, travers left until you reach a prominent hand crack, climb it to the top.

FFA: Per Calleberg, Peter Brolin, 1990

Trad 10m

Knulliamo

Starts 15 - 20 meters from "Ormplattan", two tiny finger cracks with acceptable pros. From Omplattan, walk on the first ramp passing a pine tree/bush thereafter you are on a new ramp, where you find the climb a bit to the left..

FFA: Johan Sandberg, Catrine Sandberg, 2011

Trad 6m

Johan Sandberg 2 years ago

Dirty but nice, needs cleaning. Good pro when you know where to put it.

1.5. Båthamnen 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Maktbalans	6a	Unknown
2	Kognitiv dissonans	6a+	Unknown
3	?	?	Unknown
4	Eldorado Extas	7b+	Unknown
5	Chalk it up	6c	Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
4c	Diagonalen	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Ettan	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
5a	General	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Ormplattan	Trad 40m	1.4. Parkeringsväggen
5b	Tallekens direktinsteg	Trad 8m	1.3. Båthamnen (Boat Marina)
	Knulliamo	Trad 6m	1.4. Parkeringsväggen
5a to 5b+	Talleken	Trad 40m	1.3. Båthamnen (Boat Marina)
5c	Isbiten	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Medlut	Sport 4	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
6a	Timbuktu	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Toker	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Ebbe	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Kylskåpet	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Röda Lacket	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Stor dum pung	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Spräckliga bandet	Trad 30m	1.3. Båthamnen (Boat Marina)
	Vipera	Trad 10m	1.4. Parkeringsväggen
	Maktbalans	Unknown	1.5. Båthamnen
6a+	Kognitiv dissonans	Unknown	1.5. Båthamnen
6b	Claver	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Terrier	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Tissel Tassel	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
6b+	Tsatsiki	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
6c	???	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Snoken	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Chalk it up	Unknown	1.5. Båthamnen
6c+	Polisen	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Tier	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
7a	Engel	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Morsan	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
7a+	Altermaan	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Ödets makt	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Ödets makt	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
7b	Arnington road	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	??	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	????	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Kaxi	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
7b+	Alt insteg till Arnington...	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Singalong	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Eldorado Extas	Unknown	1.5. Båthamnen
7c	Bestraffe mich	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Du hast mich	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	?	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	?????	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Agent Luhr ser rött	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	Svåra diedret	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
7c+	Buckdych	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Kyss mich	Unknown	1.1. Terrierväggen
	Livet är underbart	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
?	Den ensamma borrbulten	Unknown	1.2. Röda Lacket väggen
	?	Unknown	1.5. Båthamnen

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