A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
Long/Lat: 18.349798, 59.213503
|3||Alt insteg till Arnington...||7b+|
|10||Du hast mich||7c|
Unknown, Sport and Trad
Long/Lat: 18.351103, 59.212454
|2||Den ensamma borrbulten|
|9||Agent Luhr ser rött||7c|
|16||Livet är underbart||7c+|
|19||Stor dum pung||6a|
Long/Lat: 18.352719, 59.211397
The slab by the stairs up the cliff from the boat marina.
3minute walk from the parking, following the path towards the waterfront and boat marina
Starts by the pine tree a bit up the on the slab. Be aware of the loose heavy flakes. Climb carefully by the flakes up to the right in the groove to the right of the slab, step out left on the slab and continue up the crack to the top. Nice climbing with some runouts.
FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs, Anniki Liliemark, 1980
Starts by the arch roof to the right of previous route. Follow the arch to the birch tree, thereafter straight up following the cracks up to a tiny but good belay by the oak/pine tree. (2) Continue up the dihedral and move right at the end. The finish follows a crack in a slab where you find the crux.
FFA: Buster Delin, Jonas Paulsson, 1991
|5a to 5b+||40m|
Start 5m left of the original start in the dirty dihedral on the right wall. Fantastic limestone like pockets together with a crack at the top where the arch finishes make this variation a worthwhile variation. The pockets and the crack enables protection of the first part. Traverse back towards the tree and continue up the original route.
FA: Johan Sandberg, 2012
Long/Lat: 18.355281, 59.210372
This area covers all the cliffs from the parking to the boat marina.
The route follows the obvious dihedral by the parkingarea. Start either in the dihedral (awkward offwith) or 2 meters to the right. Continue up the crack in the dihedral with beautiful moves and bomber pros. Thereafter, it becomes loose and dodgy for a couple of meters until you reach the trees and the bealy area above these. A perfect #2 nut can be placed prior the dodgy part.
Second pitch follows the prominent crack to the right, or go for the finger crack in the left corner (5b). Both variations leead to the top with a true summmit feeling and a marvelous view over "Kalvfjärden".
Descent: Continue by foot through the woods keeping left lookout for the long wooden stairs and climb down these which passes the area "Spräckliga bandet".
At the first belay of Ormplattan, travers left until you reach a prominent hand crack, climb it to the top.
FFA: Per Calleberg, Peter Brolin, 1990
Start under the prominent overhanging crack 15-20m left of Ormplattan.
FFA: Henrik Bolander, Fredrik Rundkvist, 1990
Starts 15 - 20 meters from "Ormplattan", two tiny finger cracks with acceptable pros. From Omplattan, walk on the first ramp passing a pine tree/bush thereafter you are on a new ramp, where you find the climb a bit to the left..
FFA: Johan Sandberg, Catrine Sandberg, 2011
|5||Chalk it up||6c|