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Routes

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Grade Route
1
FR 6b *** Never a dull moment Trad 12m

The route starts just to the left of the water. Identify the obvious hand crack 5-6 meters up and start below left using great holds over a small overhang. Move left over a bulge with a reaching/undercling problem (the crux) to get to the base of the hand/fist crack, climb the crack to the top. Well protected and a various climb. Except for the crux, it is a 5 route. (Swedish 6)

FA: Johan Sandberg, Patrik Roos, 2007

FFA: Johan Sandberg, Patrik Roos, 2007

2
FR 4a Green mind Trad 15m

Starts 5 meters left of "Never a dull moment up 1.5 meters behind a tree. Identify the tree with an fantastic looking finger and hand crack. Climb it, when it ends, move right and continue straight up aiming for the small tree, climb left of the tree and belay. Upper part is tricky to protect. (Swedish 4-)

FFA: Johan & Catrine Sandberg, 2007

FA: Johan & Catrine Sandberg, 2007

3
FR 5c ** Naked Child Unknown 12m

Start under the first obvious dihedral with a tiny juniper tree stump in the middle of the dihedral. The start is tricky to protect. However, a small micro nut on the overhang lip can be used to secure the move over the overhang. Above the overhang you have plenty of protection possibilities. Excellent climbing with finger jamming and laybacking up the dihedral. (Grade 5+ Swedish).

First ascent by Johan Sandberg clogging after the first cleaning round (2008-04-21).

FA: Johan Sandberg, Anders Jakobsen, Simona, 2008

4
FR 5a *** Hög Standard Unknown 12m

A fantastic varied climb with an overhang and a classic dihedral with stemming possibilities. Well protected.

Start under the second obvious dihedral and climb the ca 4 meters overhang starting littlebit to the left (black rock) of the dihedral above. Excellent jugs and protection all the way up. The dihedral is also well protected using small nuts and e.g. aliens.

If one do not use the right hand crack and the arete, this climb is much more difficult than 5a. (Swedish 4+/5-)

FA: Johan Sandberg

5
FR 6a * Sticky fingrers Unknown 10m

An excellent face climb folloing avery shallow finger crack. Start to climb directly under the large juniper tree in the third obvious dihedral counting from the shore. Thin protection on the slab and crux.

6
FR 4b Tejaz Unknown 10m

Start to the left of the large juniper tree in the third obvious dihedral counting from the shore. Use the cracks in the black rock overhang. Continue up the large fist crack in the dihedral, thereafter continue up the final part using the hand crack slenting littlebit to the right. Now you are at the top of Sticky fingers. Both these routes tops out at the same place.

FA: Johan Sandberg, 2009

7
FR 4b Sticky Tejaz Fingers Unknown 10m

The easiest way up this dihedral starting on Sticky fingers, then travers left to Tejaz,then at the top, travers back left again and top out on Sticky fingers.

FA: Johan Sandberg