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Summary

West-exposed limestone walls with short approaches and views onto the Rhine

Access issues

Road along dam is closed on Sundays. Use detour through Balzers towards quarry ("Steinbruch") instead.

Approach

Exit the highway at Trübbach and head east towards Balzers. Shortly after passing the bridge over the Rhine, turn left to loop back ("Heliport") onto the road atop the dam (closed on Sundays). Follow this road for ~ 1 km to its end and park there. The cliff is just behind the bushes.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
8a Metzgerstrasse Sport 15m
2
8a+ Kakschum Sport 15m
3
7c Sittenstrolch Sport
4
7a+ Liumsch Sport 10m

Hauptwand

5
5c Fata Morgana Sport
6
5c+ Efeupfeiler Sport
7
6a+ Bierbauch Sport

right of ivy patch

8
4b ohne Name Sport 15m
9
6a+ Micro Sport
10
6a+ ohne Name 2 Sport 15m
11
5c+ Ä rondi Sach Sport
12
4c ohne Name 3 Sport 15m
13
5b ohne Name 4 Sport 15m
14
5a Bäumliweg Sport
15
5c+ Kobold Sport
16
5b Faun Sport
17
6a Via Meinrad Sport
18
6c+ Hobgoblin Sport
19
6a Stiärigrind Sport 15m
20
5c+ Alte Neeracher Sport 25m
21
22
6c+ Huldiplatte Sport 20m
23
6b Huldiplatte Variante Sport 20m
24
6a * Blitzidee Sport 30m, 11

faintly painted name

25
6a Bananäschalä Sport 32m
26
6c+ Runauto Sport 15m
27
6a * Gernots Warzenplatte Sport 15m, 6

second pitch

28
6a The Marocain Sport
29
30
31
7a Wadenspanner Sport 25m
32
6b ** Über dem Abgrund Sport 35m, 15

start left side of brow and traverses above its rim, then up. Longer than it seems.

33
6a Nomis Sport
34
6b n/a Sport

hangers to anchors below overhang

35
6a+ Rechtshänder Sport

to anchors below overhang, then past it first up, then left.

36
5c No name Sport
37
6c Hundeverbot Sport 25m

through overhang at "Dogs forbidden" sign

38
5c Ohne Hund Sport
39
5a Querschläger Sport

traverses right

40
5c Abpraller Sport

shares anchors with Querschläger

41

shares anchors with Affenschaukel

42
6a Affenschaukel Sport

shares anchors with Affen ohne Schaukel; rightmost route

Open trips

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