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Description

This crag, located in the east of Switzerland, Kanton St. Gallen, right next to Liechtenstein offers plenty of climbing for all levels. Brochne Burg has over 60 routes jam packed into an extremely picturesque and well protected gorge.

There is a public car park, a paved walk-in through wine fields with a view of to old ruines set before typically Swiss backdrop of snow capped Alps.

The crag is protected all day long from the sun, and the walls are laid out as if they were built for climbing. Each wall has its own dedicated grade band, plenty of room between the starts, and there is even a picknick area.

However, not all is good with Brochne Burg. Lots of the routes were polished and I found them to be under graded. So 4cs felt like 5b.

Access issues

Public car-park, paved foot path, easy walk from top of crag to climbing routes.

Approach

This has to be one of the most pleasant walk-ins both terms of ease and scenery I have ever had. There is an official public car-park (Google GPS Lat/Long 47.104734778404236, 9.48520302772522) From here it is a nice 15 min stroll to the top of the crag.

From the car-park walk back from where you came, back on the road that you drove up, about 15 meters down is the entrance (Google GPS Lat/Long 47.09967076778412, 9.48446810245514)

Simply follow this path through the wine fields (you will seen the Wartau Ruine) past the cow padock back into the forest

Then about 200 meters into the forest you will be located at the top of the crag. (Google GPS Lat/Long 47.103500962257385, 9.490111470222473)

Ethic

As your walking from the public car-park to the hiking trail you may see cars parked along the road. Please do not get tempted to park here, you will only save your self 4 mins of walking but will start to upset the locals.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Brochne Burg.