Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Taiwan 台湾 10 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 121.004017, 23.784615

1.1. T'ai-pei 0 routes in Crag

1.2. Big Cannon Cliff 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 121.520314, 25.142387

1.3. Lungtung 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Sandstone trad and sport in a stunning seaside location.

Description:

The premier climbing destination in Taiwan. Unique, bullet hard sandstone overlooking reefs, ponds, and the Pacific ocean. Cracks, faces, roofs, and even a few highball/solos over the water. Easy public transportation access from Taipei and Keelung.

Approach:

Buses run from the Taipei and Keelung main stations. Board one bound for Luodong and get off at Homei Elementary School stop on Highway 2 for quick access to the Schoolgate crag or stay on through the tunnel and disembark at the temple just after the tunnel ends. Easy scrambling across boulders will get you to most areas, although there are a few unroped class 4 traversing required to reach a few areas.

Where To Stay:

Camping is technically illegal, but tolerated if you keep a low key. Camp on the rocks or in the grassy areas along the hiking trail above the cliffline.

Ethic:

None to speak of. Some locals stick to a clean ethic, while others go nuts with the power drills. Expect tightly bolted routes (often every 5 feet!), even along lines with plentiful protection.

History:

Mostly undeveloped until the late 80's and early 1990's, although the area has long been popular with fishermen and bird nest collectors. The first wave of developments were done by locals, French, and Koreans. Later development has primarily been done by Taiwanese, although a number of notable FAs have fallen to visitors including Alex Honnold.

1.3.1. 後門 (Back Door) 0 routes in Area

1.4. Hualien 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unique Features And Strengths:

Biggest walls in Taiwan in Taroko Gorge, but it's all marble so slippery and rock quality is variable. Some great bouldering on the sea-cliffs.

Description:

The area north of Hualien City around Taroko Gorge has innumerable huge marble cliffs. The bouldering area is the cliff base in the beach that runs North from Chongde. This area us some really fun bouldering and the beach is very coarse sand making for soft landings - no mats required. Rock can be salty, so bring lots of chalk. Nothing to do a trip for but if you are checking out Taroko Gorge it's well worth the detour. Go late afternoon to avoid the heat in summer. Great potential for trad routes if you have the gear.

Access Issues:

Access is via the Chungte recreational area. Walk down the stairs past the toilets to the beach (track is currently closed but is still passable). Once at the beach go left (North) for about 10 minutes to the base of the cliff where it meets the sea.

Approach:

It's about 30minutes north of Hualien, and a 10 minute walk.

History:

It appears unclimbed, though there was some bolting activity at the next beach North at the south end of Heren beach, though the climbing here is not as good.