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Taipei Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 11
  • Ascents: 131
  • Aka: 臺北市

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

許家豪 Mei Shel Kevin Maliczak Cheng Jung Huang Chian Jui Chen Tzhan Ding Matt Tranter Kai-Lun Wu Joseph Yin Tz-Chia Tseng

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Taipei 137 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Top roping, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 25.072803, 121.537526

1.1. Rehai 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 25.134729, 121.514909

summary

因近北投熱海大飯店而取名為熱海岩場

description

參考 Nate Ball 制作的路書,並更新Topo路線圖

approach

熱海岩場位於臺北市北投山區,是隱沒在森林之中面向北方的數座砂岩質岩壁,目前共整理有27條路線,絕大多數都是運動攀登。全區在中午之前都有陰影遮蔽,但最好要帶防蚊液,下午五六點時會有蚊子大軍出沒!

由於鄰近市區與登山步道,熱海岩場的交通相當便利。若以步行的方式從新北投捷運站出發,大約要一個小時左右的路程,也可以自南側的軍艦岩親山步道向北走抵達;若是開車的話可以沿著溫泉路一路向山上開,遇銀光巷繼續直走,最後在終點的銀光巷25號民宅前停車,再往上走到登山口;騎機車的話則可以直接一路騎到登山口,登山口位於第三個轉彎石板橋處,有設一保安林界樁。

由此上行一段階梯約兩三分鐘,會抵達一黃色巨石,在此岔路向右走再向上沿著濕滑的泥土坡健行,約十分鐘以內就會開始看見從森林中聳立的岩壁,此處無路線。再往前不到一分鐘通過一段狹窄的小路後,即可見一鷹嘴狀懸岩,左側有一小台階,上面高約五公尺的小岩面上打有一排共三個PetzlP38耳片,不過此處並無路線,請再向前走一小小段路。

ethic

熱海的錨栓|Bolts in Reihai

熱海岩場鄰近陽明山區,開發年代久遠,潮濕多雨且常年瀰漫著硫磺氣體,使用本區的錨栓需善加判斷與小心!由於缺乏有效的管理,此處的錨栓幾乎沒有記錄施工詳細資訊,也因此在攀爬此區域時,更需要隨時注意錨栓的狀態,有時也會在路線上遇到鬆動的耳片,以及生鏽的梅隆鎖,若本筆記中有特別註記異常的錨栓,建議攜帶工具、繩環與傘帶或多餘鉤環,做好隨時排除的準備。自己的安全,最終必須由自己負責。

不詳材質的Petzl 耳片與膨脹錨栓、304-AustriAlpin、304-CT Ferno
是本區最常看見的Bolts,近期也有熱心人士移除了有疑慮的膨脹錨栓耳片,新增了*Ti Eterna-TitanClimbing以及316 Twisted Leg-Bolt Products*的錨栓。

Petzl耳片在熱海岩場被大量使用,但來路不明的膨脹錨栓則加深了清查錨栓種類的難度,尤其Petzl在1998年左右時變更了製造耳片的材質(原先為304,後來生產的為316)而未公告於世,因此目前熱海岩場的耳片與膨脹錨栓恐有大量混用的情形,要如何一個一個的調查並檢驗其材質,也是目前「Pataw」計畫的努力目標。

為了延長熱海岩場路線的攀登壽命,也希望在不久的將來能夠補上這些錨栓詳細的施工資訊,讓公眾對新出現的錨栓感到安心,也能對日後的管理維護有大大的幫助。

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

First Wall|鰻魚池

第一面岩壁到鰻魚池前會先經過一鼻狀的小懸岩,通過鼻子懸岩後就會抵達鰻魚池,這裡是是離銀光巷登山口最近的岩壁,共有六條路線平均分佈在平整的斜板上,是訓練腳下功夫的最佳地點。中間的大裂隙剛好分開了左右各三條運動攀登路線,

2 S1. Yi_壹號 5.9 Sport 7
3 S2. Eh_貳號 5.9 Sport 8
4 S3. San_參號 5.9 Sport 10
5 S4. Shi_肆號 5.9 Sport 10
6 S5. Wu_伍號 5.9 Sport 9
7 S6. Liu_陸號 5.9 Sport 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Overhang Wall|大懸岩

大懸岩特徵明顯,從鰻魚池一走過來馬上就能看到。另外岩壁的左側有一登山小徑可再往上,小徑坡度陡峭泥土溼滑,使用山友設置的拉繩時務必要注意拉繩的外觀是否有損壞,以防斷裂發生危險。可從此徑抵達本區的頂端利用穩固的樹木架設上方固定點,上方固定點設置在最上方平台的下方約半公尺處,頂端的邊緣並沒有任何的護欄,靠近邊緣時請注意自身安全。平台上有很多小石塊,在活動時要注意下方的夥伴,也不要向下方投擲任何的物品以免造成危險。

9 Left Arete 5.7 Sport 15m, 8
10 Layback Roof 5.8 Sport 15m, 11
11 Dual Overhangs 5.11a Sport 13m, 12
12 Crack Romp 5.8 Sport 10
13 Crack Jump 5.10- Sport 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 Gully Route 5.11- Sport 5
15 ?2 Sport

Skinny Wall

17 Skinny Arete 5.10- Sport 8
18 Skinny Slab 5.7 Sport

Fat Wall

20 Fat Bulge 5.5 Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Fat Jugs 5.8 Sport

White-streak Wall

23 Left Edge 5.8 Sport 5
24 White Streak 5.10 Sport 5

Last Wall

26 ? Sport
27 Chimney Face 5.9 Sport 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
28 Crack Face 5.8 Sport 5
29 Slab Left 5.10 Sport 13
30 Slab Right 5.9 Sport 11
31 Crimpfest 5.11 Sport

1.2. Big Cannon Cliff 100 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 25.142387, 121.520314

summary

大砲岩,舊稱「天狗岩」、「鷹岩」,由安山岩及軟質砂岩形成的天然岩場,在日治時期(1930年)即開發成天然岩場

description

參考Ron Heinsman 的路書 數字為原路線指南編號,()內為現有編號 * 1(1)左側上去可以做頂 * 7-9(9-11)(south mountain) 是到岩場碰到的第一個岩壁 * 50-51(58-59)的縫發現過蛇 * 71-72(81-82)長滿青苔 * 75 (86)上有樹支 * 89 (101)上長草和樹支 * 95-99(110-113)下方長滿草

access issues

2019 11.1重新開放 (2014封閉過)

approach

新北投捷運站下車轉搭230公車至大磺嘴站下車, 步行2分鐘即可抵達. 自行開車: 台北出發→經榮總→行義路→左轉泉源路, 約500公尺遇到涼亭就可以停車, 步行2分鐘即可抵達.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

倒三角

2 Crack 5.3 Top rope
3 Face 5.5 Top rope
4 Overhang 5.5 Top rope

南山

6 Face2 5.11 Top rope
7 Dihedral 5.5 Top rope
8 Face3 5.9 Top rope
9 Arete1 5.10 Top rope
10 “South Mountain “ 5.7 Top rope
11 Arete2 5.3 Top rope

梁大隆

13 “Saddle Up” 5.2 Top rope
14 “LiangDaLung” 5.8 Top rope
15 Face4 5.11b Top rope
16 Face5 5.10 Top rope
17 Arete3 5.6 Top rope
18 Face6 5.9 Top rope
19 Face8 5.10 Top rope
20 Face7 5.7 Top rope

下降面

22 Diheral2 5.6 Top rope
23 “Beef Steak” 5.11 Top rope
24 “Rebecca” 5.12d Top rope
25 “Continue Rising” 5.12d Top rope
26 “Rapid Advancement” 5.11d Top rope
27 Face9 5.8 Top rope
28 Face|Corner1 5.6 Top rope
29 Arete4 5.5 Top rope
30 “Mushroom Grinder” 5.10a Top rope
31 Face10 Top rope

平台

33 Dihedral3 5.6 Top rope
34 “High Dive” 5.11d Top rope
35 “High Stance Rock Carry” 5.10d Top rope
36 Overhang2 5.11 Top rope
37 Face|Corner2 5.8 Top rope
38 Arete5 5.7 Top rope
39 “Balance Face 5.9 Top rope

新手牆

41 Dihedral 4 5.0 Top rope
42 Face11 5.3 Top rope
43 Arete 6 5.6 Top rope
44 “Big Chimney” 5.0 Top rope

砲管

46 Face 12 5.7 Top rope
47 “Sunshine Face” 5.6 Top rope
48 “Sunshine Crack” 5.6 Top rope
49 Corner1 5.5 Top rope
50 Hand-plucked Chicken 5.9 Top rope
51 Sunshine Overhang 5.8 Top rope
52 Arete7 5.7 Top rope
53 Face13 5.7 Top rope
54 “Parting Tune” 5.6 Top rope
55 Face 13 5.8 Top rope

十字

57 Dihedral 5 5.4 Top rope
58 Face 14 5.7 Top rope
59 Crack 2 5.3 Top rope
60 Face 15 5.3 Top rope

飛鳥

62 Dihedral 6 5.6 Top rope
63 “Flying Bird2#” 5.12d Top rope
64 Face 16 5.12a Top rope
65 Face|Corner 3 5.7 Top rope
66 “Birds Head” 5.6 Top rope
67 “Flying Bird” 5.11b Top rope
68 Face 17 Top rope
69 Dihedral 7 5.6 Top rope
70 Sloping Crack 5.6 Top rope

雙十

72 Small Chimney 5.2 Top rope
73 “Red Earth” 5.11a Top rope
74 “Flying Ape’s Difficult Crossing” 5.11c Top rope
75 Face 18 5.11a Top rope
76 Arete 8 5.7 Top rope
77 “Double Ten Crack” 5.6 Top rope
78 Face 19 5.8 Top rope
79 “Ten Side on Bush” 5.9 Top rope
80 Arete 9 5.7 Top rope
81 Face 20 5.3 Top rope
82 Face 21 5.3 Top rope

懸岩

84 Crack to Arete 5.3 Top rope
85 Crack 3 5.4 Top rope
86 Overhang 2 5.8 Top rope
87 Overhang 3 5.7 Top ropeProject
88 Chimney 5.4 Top rope

八角亭

90 Face 22 5.6 Top rope
91 Face 23 5.5 Top rope
92 Face 24 5.11b Top rope
93 “Eight-cornered Pavilion” 5.8 Top rope
94 Face 25 5.6 Top rope
95 “Dragon’s Eight Steps” 5.9 Top rope

斜板

97 Dihedral 8 5.6 Top rope
98 “Golden Pagoda” 5.10a Top rope
99 Corner & Slab 5.6 Top rope
100 “No hole No Hole “ 5.11a Top rope
101 Crack & Slab 5.2 Top rope

最後的懸岩

103 Face 26 5.3 Top rope
104 “The Last Overhang” 5.6 Top rope
105 “Overhang & Crack” 5.7 Top rope
106 Overhang & Face 5.9 Top rope
107 “Mushroom Grinder#2” 5.10d Top rope
108 Arete| Overhang|Arete 5.10 Top rope
109 Face 27 5.13 Top rope
110 Dihedral 9 5.5 Top rope
111 Face 28 5.6 Top rope
112 Squeeze Chimney 5.2 Top rope
113 Face 29 5.2 Top rope
114 Chen, Chian Jui 5.10d Unknown

1.3. 碧山小岩場 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 25.101523, 121.569748

summary

1998年開發的岩場,目前bolts拆除已荒廢

description

過去的路線

  1. 午後的孤單 (5.12d)

  2. F.S (5.12a)

  3. 匪夷所思 (5.12b)

  4. 素描者的沉思 (5.10b)

  5. 內角 (5.6)

  6. 小畫家 (5.11a)

  7. 小家碧玉 (5.12c)

  8. On-sight (5.9)

  9. 不要懷疑 (5.8)

  10. 太極拳 (5.11d)

  11. 膽小鬼 (5.7)

  12. 斜板 (5.3)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 午後的孤單 5.12d Sport
2 F.S 5.12a Sport
3 匪夷所思 5.12b Sport
4 素描者的沉思 5.10b Sport
5 內角 5.6 Sport
6 小畫家 5.11a Sport
7 小家碧玉 5.12c Sport
8 On-sight 5.9 Sport
9 不要懷疑 5.8 Sport
10 太極拳 5.11d Sport
11 膽小鬼 5.7 Sport
12 斜板 5.3 Sport

1.4. 原岩攀岩館 T-UP Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

1.5. 市民抱石攀岩館 0 routes in Gym

1.6. 紅石攀岩 0 routes in Gym

1.7. 永和攀岩場 0 routes in Gym

1.8. MegaSTONE Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

1.9. Corner Bouldering Gym 0 routes in Gym

1.10. double 8 0 routes in Gym

1.11. Neihu Sports Center Rock Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.0 Dihedral 4 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Big Chimney” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.2 Crack & Slab Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 29 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Small Chimney Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Squeeze Chimney Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Saddle Up” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.3 Arete2 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Crack Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Crack 2 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Crack to Arete Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 15 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 20 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 21 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 26 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face11 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
斜板 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.4 Chimney Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Crack 3 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Dihedral 5 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.5 Fat Bulge Sport 1.1. Rehai
Arete4 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Corner1 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Dihedral Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Dihedral 9 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 23 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Overhang Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.6 Arete 6 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Arete3 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Corner & Slab Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Dihedral 6 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Dihedral 7 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Dihedral 8 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Dihedral3 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Diheral2 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 22 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 25 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 28 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face|Corner1 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Sloping Crack Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Birds Head” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Double Ten Crack” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Parting Tune” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Sunshine Crack” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Sunshine Face” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“The Last Overhang” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
內角 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.7 Left Arete Sport 15m, 8 1.1. Rehai
Skinny Slab Sport 1.1. Rehai
Arete 8 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Arete 9 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Arete5 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Arete7 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 12 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 14 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face13 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face7 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face|Corner 3 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Overhang 3 Top ropeProject 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Overhang & Crack” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“South Mountain “ Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
膽小鬼 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.8 Crack Face Sport 5 1.1. Rehai
Crack Romp Sport 10 1.1. Rehai
Fat Jugs Sport 1.1. Rehai
Layback Roof Sport 15m, 11 1.1. Rehai
Left Edge Sport 5 1.1. Rehai
Face 13 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face 19 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face9 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face|Corner2 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Overhang 2 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Sunshine Overhang Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Eight-cornered Pavilion” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“LiangDaLung” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
不要懷疑 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.9 Chimney Face Sport 6 1.1. Rehai
S1. Yi_壹號 Sport 7 1.1. Rehai
S2. Eh_貳號 Sport 8 1.1. Rehai
S3. San_參號 Sport 10 1.1. Rehai
S4. Shi_肆號 Sport 10 1.1. Rehai
S5. Wu_伍號 Sport 9 1.1. Rehai
S6. Liu_陸號 Sport 9 1.1. Rehai
Slab Right Sport 11 1.1. Rehai
Face3 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face6 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Hand-plucked Chicken Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Overhang & Face Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Balance Face Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Dragon’s Eight Steps” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Ten Side on Bush” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
On-sight Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.10- Crack Jump Sport 10 1.1. Rehai
Skinny Arete Sport 8 1.1. Rehai
5.10a “Golden Pagoda” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Mushroom Grinder” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.10b 素描者的沉思 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.10 Slab Left Sport 13 1.1. Rehai
White Streak Sport 5 1.1. Rehai
Arete1 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Arete| Overhang|Arete Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face5 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face8 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.10d Chen, Chian Jui Unknown 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“High Stance Rock Carry” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Mushroom Grinder#2” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.11- Gully Route Sport 5 1.1. Rehai
5.11a Dual Overhangs Sport 13m, 12 1.1. Rehai
Face 18 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“No hole No Hole “ Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Red Earth” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
小畫家 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.11b Face 24 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face4 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Flying Bird” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.11c “Flying Ape’s Difficult Crossing” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.11 Crimpfest Sport 1.1. Rehai
Face2 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Overhang2 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Beef Steak” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
5.11d “High Dive” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Rapid Advancement” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
太極拳 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.12a Face 16 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
F.S Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.12b 匪夷所思 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.12c 小家碧玉 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.12d “Continue Rising” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Flying Bird2#” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
“Rebecca” Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
午後的孤單 Sport 1.3. 碧山小岩場
5.13 Face 27 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
? ? Sport 1.1. Rehai
?2 Sport 1.1. Rehai
Face 17 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
Face10 Top rope 1.2. Big Cannon Cliff
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