Crag Guide for Phra-Nang Peninsula

Repeat OS. Setting up TR for Diego and Peter. Nothing too good...

Good warmup

A tough ending to a nice grade 5. Not that obvious where to go or what's "in" or "out".

Seemed like a pretty worthless, nasty sharp couple of metres tacked onto another climb.

ONLY if you are feeling masochistic. Crimpy as death.

Through the crux, then off the top.

A cruise this time, nice.

lost feeling in my left ring finger for about 5 minutes after this one...

Screaming my lungs off because of pump while pinching tufas- proud onsight! :D

Awesome moves up the tufa. Pumpy, but big holds save you

This time this felt not as good as last time, but I guess the polished rock is made up by the fac...

Polished holds made some of it a bit scary the first time round. Pretty good sequence through the...

up to the cave.

contrived exit from nuat hin.

the rock on this pitch is sharp as.

Repeat RP. We tried it after doing Humanality on the 10/10/12 and were too exhausted (Igor and I)...

Came back to this because I didn't want it to beat me. Made it up and over the stalagtite. Super ...

With Trinh. A bit grunty at the start, a reachy and powerful crux but nice finish.

2nd shot. Packs a lot in.

Kind of cool once you figure it out. Quite solid for the grade though

3 stars my ass! Sharp pile of rubbish.

My guide called it 'No Name'. To the right of ...Monkey with a long traverse left at the end. Con...

cool tufa-fest then steep hand trav

good climbing but shit and missing bolts and shit anchor to boot!!!

Overgrown, easy and kind of meh... Mosquito city :S

Nothing special

Awesome jugginess and body positions on vertical climbing. Fun as! :D

Perfect climb to demonstrate Thailand mega jug city. Crux brings it down a bit with the bad feet

all the routes up here around the corner seemed to have bad bolts

Some rusty bolts mixed in with slings.

Sloper city! Interesting sequence on sloper holds that initially look like jugs, and kind of a sc...

Very cool climb. Pumpy through the crux, and the slopery hold after doesn't help. Hung in there a...

Found a small snake near the second bolt. A bit freaky, then I remembered, the dangerous snakes a...

First out of the gate. Nice easy lead. Damn my sweaty hands don't help on the well worn rock face...

Warren led it. Then I led it.

Some guides give it a 6a+

Some guides give it a 6a and Selee the 6a+.

with Anat,

Pretty good climbing the whole way. Sharp for Thailand rock.

Amazing, beautiful climb with varied and interesting features (albeit including breaking chunks o...

Excellent. Just managed to keep it together on the tufa.

interesting onto stalictite

Glad I listened to Igor on this one! Jump start to campus up a stalactite, followed by cool, knee...

Awesome start that was over way too quickly. Slipped and took my first Thailand lead fall halfway...

lovely. but at 7b+ it badly fails the "laugh out loud" overgrade test. It barely makes it past 7...

I needed two belayers because it was high tide. Thanks Sam and Katherine :) Came close to the ons...

First try, no issues this time. Had been on it years ago.

Onsight to last bolt with hideous mantle - no chalk above =)

I got all the way to the 2nd last bolt cleanly and was so exhausted had to sit back and rest. The...

I freaked out at the end and grabbed the anchor!!!

The impossible route ticked. I can now die happy.

really shiny and smooth

Got it wrong and took a screamer on lead.

Orientales supersedes this now

Nice long climb

What a great long route! Repeat.

Just to clean it

Except that Miguel clipped the first bolt because it was terrifyingly high... Apparently my style...

Led the three pitches all the way from the ground. Had to abseil to the first belay station. The ...

Just P1/2 with my Norwegian friend.

Was getting the routes mixed up.

Awkward past 2nd sling for me.

It appears in the 2012 King guidebook.

I couldn't figure the sequence, might try this again.

Ahhh... Didn't even make it off the ground. Definitely above my level at this stage!

good kids climb after a boost start

Fun juggy start.

good kids climb after a boost start

The best of the 5's hereabouts.

Little bulgy in parts - good fun.

Awkward move over bulge at 2nd sling.

Average!

Really liked this climb. GettIng used to the rock and looking for the holds. Fun start and.cruise...

Jug city.

good short climb

Led after toproping. Fun, but a one-move-wonder.

Good technical route but short.

Because it was there.

fun and interesting

Really cool crack/flake, with spiders, a wasp and a gecko :)

Like a diagonal Orestes, with bolts

After trying it off the rope 30 times, I dogged past the "9D move"

Why is there a biner on the 1st ring? Freakin nails move past 2nd ring. This is the hardest 7a ever!

hardly got off the ground

2nd day, short, steep and fun

Another tough one, came close to losing it. Excellent climbing, a little sharp at the top.

with Aidy

Pumpfest

Kneebar between stalactites on the steep

Pumpy! First climb after Tonsai illness struck from 26-28th... not a half bad effort!

with Aidy

with Aidy

TR, thought it was easy for 6c

Nice technical climb. Fun crux, nice and sustained finished.

with Aidy

the one that got away. could hvae gone either way to make for a massive day but in the end i fell...

Directismo was the go.

Fell multiple times at crux. great climb on a great wall. Want to come back one day and RP it + w...

This will be Sam's proj.

Explosively fell off a wet pocket at the second bolt (scary). Came down and Alzheimer OS it. Azza...

great climbing. a tough unit

Super fun, long route. Took one rest at crux

Fantastic line, long and excellent moves, the top section is wicked, pumpy and committing

A clean-up for Sam. Crushed it.

Sam told us this was a 6A to get Em and I to lead it. It was hard! The crux move was very smooth ...

Excellent photo climb in the roof back across Railay and Tonsai

The pockety roof finished Azza off.

We replaced the sling at the crux

So damn brilliant...

Pretty cool,

no way this is a 6b, more like a 6c+

Felt solid on this climb. The hardest moves were high and they weren't too bad at all :)

Sharp rock but climbing style is a little different to the typical Thai route.

led the last 3m, since mark used the wrong anchor

it's the arete

2nd shot. The only 7a I didn't onsight this trip.

One of the Best 6B+ I have climb.

Great long climb - boats can be noisy though.

First 7a+. Awsome climb

Beautiful climbing. Nothing too hard, but sustained

Easy, then one super long move I missed. Bolts worrisome.

cant believe i ticked this in the rain!!!

Just don't think about it. Thinking never got us anywhere.

With Birgette. Just commit on the crux. Amazing climbing follows.

Great warmup

Also good

Well well. It's either extreme reach or extreme crimping. I could manage neither.

only the last move is hard

Been on this route 9 years ago, so i am calling this ascent an Alzheimers Flash.

Excellent face ...

Take it one crimp at a time, and bring your feet. That will help

For bolt removing and patching work (Thitanium Project)

great addition.

Been on this route 9 years ago, so i am calling this ascent an Alzheimers Flash.

Excellent face ...

Favorite climb at the crag! Super fun

Brilliant route but felt more like a 6c+ .

Excellent climbing. End of 3 days climbing. Should of lead but was feeling pumped

Good climb

For bolt removing and patching work (Thitanium Project)

Not 100% sure this is the climb I led. Emily led Paul and I off the path so we traversed out and ...

extremely sharp (sucks for shoes, dangerous for the rope)

A stroll indeed. Nice rock, nice beach..

After an unpleasant deckout, it was time to get on an easier climb ...

Intimidating potential ledge fall guards the crux.

Where do the holds go ?

Wow. Holy crap! Vertical and techo with some Ceuse runouts. Not what you expect on your holiday :...

Best wall in Thailand.

To complete the trilogy.

A nice longish pitch

Pitch 1 Only.

juggy tufa fun

Pitch 1 Only.

well, dave pretty much got benighted leading it, so I can't say too much for what the climb looke...

Was just cleaning the draws for Jackie, but I should have led it. Laziness. Great view at the t...

ok, a little overated...

With Lysann and Eric. The ultimate climb to finish the trip on. Spicy start gets the adrenalin le...

what is it with 6b around here?

Not a very good area

Mentally demanding

Like climbing out of a giant arsehole

very hard

Really like this one.

My arms aren't long enough.

Breeziest wall in Thailand. A very long shitty reach up high on this one.

5 ... or 6 kneebars ... I forget

Slipped of the greasy crux.

Then failed again.

Super powerful crux of 2 two finger pockets.

well worth doing. someone said it used to be 7c! 7a is about right though

Fell on the crux move. Rested on the bolt, then got it clean to the anchor.

not close, but lots of fun!

super from go to wo! nearly blew it post-crux :)

ruined by ridiculously reachy last move. us non-stringbeans would have a classic if it had one mo...

Had to top rope. Set the anchor from MM2. It didn't seem safe to lead although it's easy, it had ...

surprisingly good! putting up a family TR in paradise

Chimney! Chimney!

Sit start next to small tree from hole, through small pockets to edge, finish high on R/H stalict...

Pitch 1 Only.

definitely tricky for the grade, bouldery start then a lot of fun

really enjoyed this one

That wee, wouldn't trust him as far as i could throw him!

a memorable end to the trip.

usually an 18V4 is going to suck, but both the V4 and the 18 are awesome! best rock on the penins...

great route with the top bit unpolished as it's protected by a hard move down low. Really nice.

Dan led it. I TRed.

With David. Tricky climb on sharp rock.

Ouch! sharp on the hands. Gutsy traverse.

With David. Awesome exposed traverse. Easy though. Not too many of these in Thailand.

With David. Pretend you are soloing. The bolts are useless. Lucky the holds are not.

Sammy on the money again !!!! God bless the green bible.

Awesome line. Waiting for Shyamal.

Fell again a few times

Covered in black dust, needs a water blasting. But what terrain! Killer bridging up an overhangin...

With David & Lee. Pumped out one move from the anchor after doing the crux. Strong techinal climb...

Not as easy as it looks, and pretty scungy anyway

First route in Thailand.

Nice moves on polished rock.

with Anat, fell at last move on lead 3 times, then TR'd successfully.. ahhhh

TR (no pro)

good fun, easy to miss holds on

First climb in Thailand! First onsight in Thailand. Stoked! Very pumpy.

Short and polished.

feeerkk. cruised the crux and popped of at the top errrrr

easy start, than a litle overhung crimp, than easy. was soooo close but no cigar

A little thought for the top move.

with Anat,

Scary/exhilarating (not sure which yet). Not going to lead this grade just yet! Nice climb, with ...

If it's possible to "dog" a top rope ascent, that's totally what I did. Completely buggered by th...

This time with the direct start from the cave

Fist time climbing up a crack. Very nice :) Had 1 rest on the rope. Hopefully can do it cleanly n...

Awesome climb in the corner.

Nice

Soft, pleasant.

Probably great, but I had nothing at the end of the day.

A very engaging arete - get on it

Awesome route! Beautiful features, but committing and more than one crux. Stiff for the grade. Gu...

hard for the grade, Alaskans had their draws stuck halfway up , couldn't finish the climb so i ha...

It's ok.

delicate and really polished

good fun , great view, maybe a little soft ?

A nice finish to the trip

rusty bolts. shares same anchor.

Tricky.

Comedy of errors but somehow came away with it. [3]

This place doesn't feel "real"

didn't enjoy, tough moves on tough holds

Bouldery start for a 5

I think this is the right climb? Common 1st pitch with Continental Drifters.

great climb great views

My current project ...

Had to rest about 3/4 up. This climb just doesn't let up. Continuously technical the whole 35m. M...

One of my faves. Polished these days but still terrific.

Time to move on from leading 5's...

easy climb

Death Death Death! Funny story: First bolt, crack clean through the FH, hmm, keep climbing. Secon...

first pitch only

Contrived and confusing!

Very good

Pretty cool climbing up tufas. Probably easier than a 6b

Great route went down with Rich's heel-tastic beta.

Unlikely. Bulge a little punchy.

Polished to within an inch of its life garbage, but leads to a wonderful pitch 2.

punchy start

Just awesome. As good as the first time. Now with kneebars, I didn't even get pumped.

RADRADRAD...Loved it. Marc has bad beta though.

I thought this was called the cave route.... maybe this is different again.

easy climb

Not too hard, mid section takes a little bit of figuring out

So we (Igor and I) were shitting ourselves since like 2 days before upon the prospect of going up...

Very good, interesting moves.

Very interesting moves.

only pitch of note on this climb

first pitch only

Really scared leading this pitch due to being new at multipitching. Had to sit on the rope and wo...

(Latest guidebook says 7a for this pitch) ... so when I got to the top of the first, I set up TR ...

Was exhausted seconding this after not being able to figure out the start for ages. Excellent cli...

... so when we got to the second belay, we were very seriously thinking about bailing, but being ...

such a fantastic climb i loved it

Fell a 1st bolt, restarted pitch and rest clean. 2 cruxes, 2nd crux at 3/4 height. Nearly came of...

Sharp rock, it's the only way to the rap station. A great day out!!

With some guy. These climbs would get stars anywhere except in Thailand where there are too many ...

nice longish pitch

Funny this used to be 7a! Sam flashed it today.

very nice steep but good

One of my few remaining routes to do

a religious experience...

Great climbing, varied and fun.

With Trinh. A dit grovelly and powerful.

Got to lead this pitch in 2006 with John (seconded in 2003 with Lorna).

Our first climb requiring two 60 m ropes

Beautiful rock.

If you only go to the first belay stance at the top of pitch one, and don't traverse right, you c...

Nightmare rope drag, communication disaster.

I liked this better than the sluggard prince

Crap. Polished and wierd.

Just clipped the anchors as an enormous thunder storm rolled in... cleaned my gear as it started ...

Awesome exposure... long pitch, great fun!

Lead tunnel pitch

Bloody hard work! Bolts up top do not follow the line of climbing, this would mess up your onsigh...

Continuing my Thailand 7b sandbag tour. This is a jewel in the sandbag crown. [2]

Okay, the low dyno crux on this is INSANE.

Super fun climb! Nice sweaty thailand crack. Went up another 2 times after this.

This is very good and well worth doing. Devious crux - there is an easy way if you find it.

Crux is contrived. Shame since it looks good.

Not good

polished

A bit of space between gear, but great moves on great rock

With Trinh. Ho hum. More scary sharp stuff.

With Trinh. Interesting exposed climbing.

polished

kinda horrible!

thin quartzy cruxiness. I peeked while lowering off 'Same Same'

was really fun, suprised it has no stars

Great climb, tricky little bouldery start, but its a great move once you figure it out

amazing!! best 7c+ in thailand ?

hardest onsight to date was great

Fell on move to anchors, doh. Must come back for this one, nice climbing!

Quite good, gets progressively harder with fingerlocks and bad feet up high.

interesting climbing 10m or tree roots

mostly a climb up a tree

lead 1/3/5 at 0600 hrs. the barefoot solo before the first pitch was scary. i thought the hardest...

I have now lead all the pitches first shot except the 4th, which Igor lead. Did it all with Igor ...

Nice warm-up to start getting pumped.

Warm up again

Got it nice and clean, placing the draws.

Nearly got it.

Awesome climb. Nice moves, slightly overhung, good post crux rests

Fell trying to get through the crux

Held on for about 10 minutes trying to figure out how to clip the anchor. Did eventually. Lowered...

bit of a squeeeze!

Fun climb

Thought this was an onsight, but had done it before apparently.

wet ?

[Oz 22/23]. A steep pumper.

fun tough!

pity its so short as the moves are good

Strange pockets. very short.

I loved this one! took me 4 goes - I know its short (like 10m or something) but its pretty pumpy ...

Really nice corner climb. Guidebook says titanium bolts, but its stainless steel glue ins

GREAT CORNER!

Classic!!! Steep start to a picnic, to a seat, to a tricky move, to another picnic, to a curious...

Better than it looks...fun climbing.

Bloody hard boulder problem.

definately need to know the heel beta. done the route with first 2 moves as dynos

7c+.

Jumped on this sucker for a bit of fun. Maybe in another 20 years.

Just missed out on my last day...

2 shots, would have gone, but this was last day

Did all of the individual moves up to and beyond the 4th bolt first shot, but was taking too long...

Now I really need a break. No more climbing for me for two weeks (or more?). Need a good rest bef...

seems like a fun move. 2 weeks hangboarding should do the trick

Two burns, held final hold for ages! Learnt to drop until knee hits.

not bad.