A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. Railay
289 in Area
- 1.1. Muai Thai 20 in Area
- 1.2. One-Two-Three 27 in Area
- 1.3. The Pinnacle 3 in Area
- 1.4. Duncans Boot 9 in Area
- 1.5. Hidden World Wall 8 in Area
- 1.6. Jungle Gym 10 in Area
- 1.7. Jungle Gym South Face 4 in Area
- 1.8. The Keep 11 in Area
- 1.9. Castle Wall 3 in Area
- 1.10. Low Tide Wall 6 in Area
- 1.11. Jurassic Park Wall 2 in Area
- 1.12. Hueco Wall 8 in Area
- 1.13. The Defile 11 in Area
- 1.14. Kochel Rock 4 in Area
- 1.15. Phra-Nang Beach 19 in Sector
- 1.16. Pra-Nang Beach Cave 1 in Area
- 1.17. Happy Island 14 in Area
- 1.18. Tum Choee [Escher World] 25 in Cliff
- 1.19. Universe Wall 5 in Area
- 1.20. Thaiwand Wall 43 in Area
- 1.21. The Candlestick Area 3 in Area
- 1.22. Wee's Present Wall 18 in Area
- 1.23. Cave wall 2 in Crag
- 1.24. Lap Lair 1 in Area
- 1.25. Diamond Cave 32 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
Long/Lat: 98.841599, 8.007165
|4||Nam Dtah See Som||7a||16m|
|8||extension of Pattica Samupade||6a||15m|
|11||Reaching Like a Monkey||6c||13m|
|12||Piece of Cake||6a||13m|
Three threds to a ring anchor
Take it Easy
4 threads up to a ring anchor.
|19||The Beacons Memorial Climb||5||8m|
|20||The Devine Ascention of Sully||5||9m|
Long/Lat: 98.841974, 8.007249
Top quality rock with many easier graded routes. Warning, this crag gets extremely busy with climbing schools.
Ymer, The Giant
7 bolts, 2 slings
This route is located directly left of Kratoy 6c.
FA: Bjoern & Alber, 2011
|6||One Thousand Knives||6b+||25m|
|10||Dr Jekull & Mrs Hyde||6a+||1027m,|
|13||Knights In White Satin||7b+||25m|
|14||Big Shit (aka Flying To The Stars)||7a+||24m|
|15||Make A Way||6b||27m|
Quartz / Quarks
Short, crimpy moves to a generous finishing sequence if you hit the moves right.
Excellent long route that seems to get very little traffic.
(Ti) 12 x Titanium bolts.
FA: Francois Burnier & Dominue Potard, 1990
|21||Massge Secrets (pitch 1)||16||10m|
Start as for Massage Secrets then move R to jugs and up to big ledge.
FA: Local guides.
|23||Short And Savage||6b||10m|
|24||Giggerig For Climbing||5||12m|
3 bolts, 2 threads Farthest climb to the right on one-two-three wall.
FA: Unknown, 2007
|1||Long Live the Herm||4||8m|
Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 98.842590, 8.007485
|2||Make A Bow||7a+||13m|
|3||The Dark Side||7a+||18m|
|4||The Voice of Doom||5.11b||40m|
|5||Falling in love||6b+||13m|
Long/Lat: 98.842479, 8.007336
|5||Space Head Gone Ape||6b||11m|
Unknown and Sport
Long/Lat: 98.842865, 8.007443
|1||Focus on Your Abdominal Breathing||6a||23m|
|6||Gang Ghaeng Ling||6c+||15m|
Long/Lat: 98.842970, 8.007420
|1||Von Winde Verweht||6c+||20m|
|4||Monkeys in Gym||6c||18m|
Long/Lat: 98.843158, 8.007374
|2||Tongue Thaid p1||7a+||15m|
|3||Tongue Thaid p2||7b||31m|
Watch out for the crux - photo says it all... (hehe)
|5||Bottom Feeder p1||6b|
|6||Bottom Feeder p2||7c||18m|
|10||Babo Does Thailand||6c||28m|
Long/Lat: 98.843415, 8.007383
|3||Bad and Beware||6b||26m|
Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 98.843863, 8.004696
Like the name suggests, you can only climb here at low tide. It also gets shade only in the afternoon, so if you're only here for a week or two there'll only be a few days where low tide coincides with afternoon shade, so its worth planning ahead to visit this crag on the days that work. Its worth it, the routes are stellar.
|1||A Walk In The Park||6a||15m|
|3||Definitely Makes You Whinge||7c||30m|
|1||One of our Dinosaurs are Missing||6b+||85m|
|2||The Land Time Forgot||6b+||87m|
Long/Lat: 98.843206, 8.003962
|1||Violence is Golden||8a+||7m|
|3||Love and Performance||7c+||15m|
|4||Youth in Asia||7b||20m|
|5||Travels with the Bludgeon Brothers||6a||15m|
|6||Sam I'm Not||6a||23m|
Long/Lat: 98.840750, 8.003130
|2||Thank You Sophie||7b||10m|
|4||Allo, La Terre||7b||40m|
|5||Mai Pen Rai||6a+||25m|
|9||Monkey Gone to Heaven||6b||12m|
|10||Khao Pat Gai||7a+||12m|
Unknown and Sport
|2||I Am Out Of Here||6c||12m|
|3||One For You One For Me||6c||12m|
Long/Lat: 98.840244, 8.004524
Not the best crag on the peninsula, but it does actually have a surprisingly good selection of routes. Combine this with practically all bolts being nice new titanium, and the superb setting, this spot actually has quite a bit going for it. Climbers should respect the importance of the Princess Cave, and be aware that a lot of non-climbers will be here ... behave accordingly! Watch out for monkeys and local kids both of which often bail you up and/or steal your stuff, especially on the path back to Railay.
The leftmost route on this crag. Also the only one which continues past the lip of the roof and up the leaning headwall all the way to the jungle.
Tough Trip Through Paradise
this is the 8m roof 3-4m R of genesis with an anchor just above the lip. There seems to be the option of doing linkups of these via the rail 1-2m before the lip.
2m left of black diamond. Bouldery.
2-3m L of the short rubbishy 6cs is a hard-looking (8a?) bulge with lots of slimy looking black stuff. Titanium bolts.
The lefthand 6c taking a rail/flake for the steepest bit. Reportedly not very good, but with this grade and location it was always going to get heaps of traffic. Rebolted with titanium 2005.
FA: Frank Dicker
Princess Eyes / The RH 6c
The RH 6c, this time getting thru the steep bit on fingery pockets. This one is also supposed to be pretty average. Titanium.
Tales of Power
Just left of, and behind, the tufa which hangs down to 2m off the sand. Juggy rail to some tricky moves around the bulge then stem up the left side of the hanging tufa system. Rebolted with titanium 2005.
FA: Volker Schoeffl, 1991
Don't Buy Toys
Pockety steep stuff then the R side of the tufa system. The 3rd or 4th bolt is actually on the side of the tufa. Reportedly quite an ok route.
Just R of the righthand 7a. Bit of a squeeze but looks great! Titanium.
Might As Well Hurl
R of the 8a, left of Up to You. Awesome moves! A short draw or single biner on the 2nd bolt is good at softening the swing back onto the belayer's rope for falls off the first crux.
Up to You
The righmost route on the eye catching pocketed section of rock, and possibly the best here. Rebolted with titanium in 2005.
FA: Francois Burnier, 1991
More a RHV than an extension, because you don't clip the last bolt or anchor of UTY. Looks very cool. 30 degrees the whole way!
Left of Cleft
Definitely not 7b ... subtract 2 grades if your span is 190cm+, or add two grades if it's less! Lovely rock, cool moves, titanium bolts ... all ruined by the last move. Bulge, then climb the easy cleft for 8m, then climb the steep wall just left of the cleft.
Money Maker 1
Just R of the cleft, the leftmost line on the Money Maker tufa/column. Slightly grungy black rock at times. The fixed hangers are shiny, but beware.
Start on the left side of the Money Maker tufa/column formation and go straight up. Top half is nice and delicate.
Money Maker 3
As for the 6a then trend R around the big tufa/column formation.
Money Maker 4
Start on the front of the column then straight up into MM3.
Money Maker 5
Steepish start up the corner/thing on the right side of the column, finish inside cave.
Start 1m R of MM5. This is actually the very left side of the Princess's Cave, so this route reportedly gets erased regularly. But it's the local guides who re-establish it so uppity foreigners probably have no chance of sorting out the real situation. Has been bolts in the past, but as of 2012 they've all been chopped and it's been reestablished all on threads. Steepish face just R of the Money Maker column then head diagonally R for 10m then up for 15m. Some thread anchors can be seen up there but you might need to BYO. And you might need 2 ropes to get off.
Long/Lat: 98.840391, 8.004272
|1||Steep wall problem marked'V10'||V8|
Unknown and Sport
Long/Lat: 98.836361, 8.005094
|1||Waiting for Donkey Kong||6c||40m|
|2||Don't Worry, Be Happy||6a||25m|
|4||Land Of Smiles p1||7a+||24m|
|5||Land Of Smiles p2||8a||28m|
|8||Violent Brain Fever||8a+||25m|
Long/Lat: 98.836928, 8.007897
Some interesting climbs on very polished rock.
Go to Phra Nang beach and follow the beach right to the end and up the jungle path. It could also be accessed from Thaiwand Wall. There's a grade 4 climb to get to it.
A climbing guide mentioned there used to be a lot of mosquitoes at that cliff and they called it Itchy World. The name somehow transformed to Escher
Best Route in Minnesota
Awsome route on a pinacle in giant cave.
|2||Half Pipe Dream||7a+||20m|
|6||Ribbed For Her Pleasure||6b||15m|
Short and Easy
Good lead for beginners. polished but very do-able
Don't Grab the Krabi
Hard only on the crux, 3 moves.
No Name / Another 6b near Humming Song
Starts between the two caves a meter to the right of 'The Playground'. 5 slings. Has its own anchor.
Mei Rue Arei / Yet another 6b near Humming Song
Direct start from the cave or start as per 'No Name' or Humming Song if it's too wet. 3 bolts and 2 slings. Finishes on its own anchor a meter above and right of 'No Name'.
Humming Song - Left Variation
Start 'Humming Song' and go left after the second draw. Follow the slings and bolts until the last bolt and join Humming Song's anchor.
There's a nice direct start clipping the first sling from the cave. If the sling is removed consider doing the start as per Humming Song.
Climb on the corner and goes straight to the anchor at the right of the tree.
|18||Freedom of a Friend||7a+||30m|
|20||As Far as Siam||6a+||15m|
|22||Good With a Machete||7b||15m|
|23||The Danger of Beauty||7c+||15m|
|25||The Beauty of Danger||7c+||15m|
Long/Lat: 98.836140, 8.008141
|5||The Shining Path||8a||20m|
Long/Lat: 98.836041, 8.008766
Unknown and Sport
Long/Lat: 98.836698, 8.008554
|3||The Red Line||6c+||255m|
Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 98.837416, 8.008506
|2||Mot Khao Ta||7b||620m,|
|3||Ling Rong Hei / Monkey crying||6b+|
|5||Way To The Top||5b|
|6||I don't know||6a||15m|
A man can tell a 1000 lies.
FA: Elke Schmitz
|11||Same Same, but Different||6b+||20m|
|12||Tarte Au Poil (Hair Pie)||7c+||27m|
|13||Shit Rest Days||7a+||25m|
|14||Give Me a Break||7a||25m|
|15||John's White Shirt||6b|
|17||On The Edge||6c|
|18||Klong Mot Gan||5b|
Long/Lat: 98.837790, 8.008691
- Unique Features And Strengths:
exelent quality routes on nice unpolished rock
two long singlepitch routes on exellent rock
the wall on the left side of the big cave on the left side of Wees present wall. Follow the same instructions as to get to Wees present wall.
The two current routes were put up when Wees present wall was rebolted in 2014.
No good deed goes unpunished
Climb up in the cave and traverse out on the face. After two bolts keep straight up and to the left. Due to trees and the cave in the start the lower part of the climb needs to be cleaned on toprope to prevent big swings into the trees.
Set by @simontalltorp,Tom Cecil, 2014
FFA: @simontalltorp, 2014
Climb up in the cave and traverse out on the face. After two bolts keep going right. There is a halfway anchor but keep climbing up to the tufasystem on the right. Due to trees and the cave in the start the lower part of the climb needs to be cleaned on toprope to prevent big swings into the trees.
Set by Josh Lyons,Stephen Hyndman, 2014
FFA: Stephen Hyndman, 2014
Sport and Unknown
Long/Lat: 98.841333, 8.014471
Medium to good quality rock but very, very popular with the climbing schools.
|2||Mr No Name||6b+||55m|
|3||Mrs No Name||6b+||55m|
|4||Lost Sock in the Laundromat of Oblivion||6b+||55m|
|5||Bar You Tee Nai?||7a||50m|
|6||Sixty Degrees North||7a+||25m|
Sport and Unknown
|1||Attic Antics LHV||20||27m|
Thread Of Life
aka 'Kad Kai'
|6||No Name 5||5||20m|
aka 'Run Away' in 'Rock Climbing in Thailand' Schmitz & Changrua
Keep the Jam Man p1
3 bolts, 4 threads
FA: Nick Blaise, Martin Carstens, 1995
|12||Keep the Jam Man p2||6a||15m|
|13||Keep the Jam Man p3||7a||70m|
|15||No Name 7||6b||20m|
|18||Les Petites Oreilles||6b+||21m|
|19||Diamonds are Forever||6b+||27m|
|20||Seven Seven Seven P1||6b||20m|
|21||Seven Seven Seven p2||6c||58m|
|22||Seven Seven Seven p3||6c||15m|
Three bolts, 4 threads
FA: Ralph Dietrich, Vitsanu Rashsang, Heide Dietrich, 1999