Crag Guide for Ton Sai Bay Area

interesting climbing 10m or tree roots

mostly a climb up a tree

lead 1/3/5 at 0600 hrs. the barefoot solo before the first pitch was scary. i thought the hardest...

I have now lead all the pitches first shot except the 4th, which Igor lead. Did it all with Igor ...

Nice warm-up to start getting pumped.

Warm up again

Got it nice and clean, placing the draws.

Nearly got it.

Awesome climb. Nice moves, slightly overhung, good post crux rests

Fell trying to get through the crux

Held on for about 10 minutes trying to figure out how to clip the anchor. Did eventually. Lowered...

bit of a squeeeze!

Fun climb

Thought this was an onsight, but had done it before apparently.

wet ?

[Oz 22/23]. A steep pumper.

fun tough!

pity its so short as the moves are good

Strange pockets. very short.

I loved this one! took me 4 goes - I know its short (like 10m or something) but its pretty pumpy ...

Really nice corner climb. Guidebook says titanium bolts, but its stainless steel glue ins

GREAT CORNER!

Classic!!! Steep start to a picnic, to a seat, to a tricky move, to another picnic, to a curious...

Better than it looks...fun climbing.

Bloody hard boulder problem.

definately need to know the heel beta. done the route with first 2 moves as dynos

7c+.

Jumped on this sucker for a bit of fun. Maybe in another 20 years.

Just missed out on my last day...

2 shots, would have gone, but this was last day

Did all of the individual moves up to and beyond the 4th bolt first shot, but was taking too long...

Now I really need a break. No more climbing for me for two weeks (or more?). Need a good rest bef...

seems like a fun move. 2 weeks hangboarding should do the trick

Two burns, held final hold for ages! Learnt to drop until knee hits.

not bad.

A harrowing 16 shot addiction. 4 days, 125g chalk, One tendon. Last shot, last day. One happy boy.

Sweet Climb - lots of rests and a good strong finish on the roof.

new wave classic!!

7c+ now.

Tricky final roof. Clasp that stal.

the tufa fell down. Ha!

underrated classic!

the whipper i took peeling off the jug on the flash was memorable [2]

The best.

Bit of a jumpy start, and then a cruise.

Great dyno at the start, pumpy finish. Botched the OS at the anchors... what a goose.

Got to climb the morning of my flight! On the quest for the 6c onsight, the prize was sweet! Very...

Awsome...

With Rob. Our first stalactite...

The classic warm-up stal pitch of the beach - always a queue for this climb.

ok

Hard then easy, would have been cool before the breakage.

i had neither.

Not too far. I just got the second bolt. I'll try it again

Had me blowing a gasket until I popped in the knee bar (thanks UPSKILL!).

Soft - apart from the pouring tufa at the start that I had to climb around! (thanks early NYE mon...

Bloody hard pull at the start, then cruisy

27 in aus.

found it tough. Campussing works!

2nd shot never done a 27 so happy got to love being tall sometimes

hilarious: blueys climber couldn't hold the huge crimp. the nail in the coffin for my hard tick d...

2nd go. 7c+ probably 27 in aus.

chipped uop garbage can. Fucking great tho.

Another "Chipped up garbage can"

8a+ in new guide... 28 in aus.

a crack in thailand! Heh, that'll trip up the jug haulers

great line!

boulder

Bloody hard start, then nice

skipped the thread clipped the 2nd then downclimbed and started again

Very coolpowerful start. Misread some holds so no onsight :-( Didnt expect the second crux near t...

cool.

I was on one finger and no feet at the crux. Not what I was expecting. I initially started up the...

Just missed the onsight by a bees dick. Nice route.

not bad

I thought this was the 7a so was justifiably happy when I looked up the guidebook after strugglin...

ive forgotten this one

the polish

With Borg. Classic beach pull on to start

done by going direct at the 6c anchors (left) then traverse right to the actual anchors. direct t...

yawn. gotta keep your belayer happy.

everyone hates polish people.

Third attempt (after a rain interupted second). Great moves thru the crux section up high.

yawn. gotta keep your belayer happy.

Ok climb. Hard for the grade though

thought it was a 6c. has 1 not too hard move then the 2nd half of the climb at 6a/b. got it 2nd a...

A lady asked us if her daughter could top rope this before 'just to warm-up before she jumps into...

amazing. Best on beach?

looks nicer than it climbs but still good value

Got through the bottom crux smoothly on the 2nd shot but had trouble making the clip on the next ...

butt hard.

Nice looking feature but not outstanding climbing, worth doing but a bad warmup.

pretty pumpy. 10days in sai is not enough to get stuck on her. she'll go next year

didn't take long to learn how much my PE has plummeted after 6 weeks of 14x7 at the desk. OS to l...

crimps

about 10 tries.

Worked out start and made some inroads in the top crux. Oww my poor fingers. Sooo nit my style.

wet today, only did to 3/4 point.

Very nice flake/crack. Crux near start of overhang badly protected. Friend fell here and busted a...

Someone elses draws made this a pleasant tick! Start 10m is a total choss pile - crack is great.

Warm up

Pretty straightforward

Went to the wrong anchor at the top but still pretty good

Not really OS... apparently we went up to the wrong anchor and the crux was just before the right...

I have trouble working out an easy way to clean the crux move.

A bit tiring at the start... the next is nice and easy.

Shitty rock, crap moves (I hate polished face climbs)

Worth doing despite the silly bolting.

A definite crux, nice moves.

Looks average, but climbs great

Very thoughtful.

First climb in Tonsai!!!!! Thought is was the 6b+ but was 6c+. Awesome climb, will get it clean b...

crux is cruxy

Jaclyn smashed the onsight but I just couldn't find my feet at the crux. Ended up giving up. Cool...

Aid climbed this, just a bit of help of the dogbone to get jug after the crux.

I still can't get the crux move. Had to clean from Longes Feschtl

Polished.

I screw up the sequence at the crux.

Very nice climbing

Harder than most 7a+ 's...

Could be "Impossible Business" if you're short. Good bouldery climbing. [6]

Foot in pocket and hit the high crimp, didn't stick. Just too tired 4th burn. Next day it'll go. ...

Pockets are just swell....

One hard move, rest isnt too bad

Disastrous and unprofessional falling after the crux. Boo.

1 lap made very clear that it is there for the taking ... if I had any PE whatsoever

Start is still impossible for me. Not even remotely doable.

Couldn't get off the ground!

No Have....power. Very nice, but hard. Had to rest about 5 times

major elbow issues led to me bailing

might be easy for the grade, but I'm calling it - first 8a!

Ooze your way to success. 2nd shot!

[Oz 25/26]. Brilliant, varied, sustained, hard crux. [5th shot]

You need to be able to really squeeze those slimpers (slopy crimpers). At one point I had a hand ...

To second last bolt on OS attempt.

Extremely polished - making you stand precisely!

Beautiful climb

has some new titanium 1 pitch jobbies beside it too. no idea which one i did. they're all rubbish...

sustained and not the best rests. but very good at the grade. probably harder than some c's imo

The titanium bolts cost me $70. Hope you like it. I did.

Nice

hahah took a whipper on one of the easiest climbs here.

Xlnt

Dirty start. Tricky polished section. Not bad but didn't enjoy it as much as others.

Nice climb

Recommended by Marcelo and it didn't disappoint! Beautiful long crack, some fun weight-shifting m...

Off the ledge. Long, good.

suffering from pump out

Hardest ascent to date! Overhung with lots of strong moves. No falls but I needed to rest a few t...

Nice recommendation from MOC. Nice and pumpy.

fell after the crux, just before next bolt, arms pumped out , took a fall 3 draws down! ...will b...

still fun , feel good, will come back for it

Another fantastic recommendation from Marcelo and a new milestone as my hardest onsight to date. ...

Great climb. Recommended by Marcelo. I love the slab at the start, but freaked out a bit on the ...

Without the crowds, you may get on it. Cool.

Sigh. I cannot onsight here.

gold!

2nd go, great fun all the way

Some very hard mono moves!

With Birgette. Thrilling techinical climbing. Awesome top sequence.

Dog collar

Got to second bolt ... next time.

Soft for the grade

Steep and pumpy. Milk that undercling and grab the stalagtite!

Nice to bag this. Very Vietnamese-style limestone and holes. Looked at it years ago but has been ...

Heel didn't lock. Dang.

interesting feature! some dicey moves above ledges though.

A bit tricky and spooky.

Found direct start very difficult. So I walked up the side to clip the first bolt. Later found ou...

nice warm down

peace man

[Oz 22] Cool pockets.

What a rip snorter.

An epic climb.

really absorbing climb

Interesting

As the name says. I got annihilated. Hard onsight.

Excellent climbing in a steller position with an exciting finish.

End of day struggle

A move that would feel more at home on Taipan Wall. Pretty crazy crux.

Are you kidding me? I eventually solved the crux two ways, but either method was desperate. Un-on...

Night onsight! Cool climb, jumped on it to clean it. Skipped a bolt! Guidebook grade is 6a. Chimn...

Rated as 6a in the Thailand Guidebook but felt it was as hard or harder than Snake Whiskey. Nice ...

Great warm up. Still lots of jugs.

(De pronto Flash!!) After watching Miguel climb this, he gave the amazing beta, "All jugs. There ...

Silly low roof. Kneebar helps.

Tree is on? Yeah

Very fun - great tree swinging action at the top. Do it!

Finally some steep climbing. Hanging in kneebars feels like home.

Pumpy and beasty for the grade. I counted 8 kneebars.

Bloody brilliant! Can't wait to do SOS

Let 2nd pitch. Excellent!

Fell at the anchors, draw ripped through a fixed hanger, slashed the rope, shit my pants. Draws w...

Hard, but good

2nd shot. One of my sweatiest ticks ever!

Really nice little (very short) climb but I was super confused at the end. I got to a ledge/cave ...

This is a little gem. Donger holds!

Do this bit for sure and yell "I love Thailand" as Nico did today while monkeying up the huge stal.

I made a meal of this rising traverse. Some not good holds!

Really nice climb. Pity it was getting dark when I was at the crux and I guess I lent on the the ...

hard

hard middle section (without using the holds on the climb L) i think people may be confusing this...

Committing but super fun! Did two laps. Very nice climbing

Difficult blank middle section!

too top anchor

With Augie.

os attempt. very good. has a good stem rest after crux

Hard!

attempted it in the sun spooging all over the shot. got it that arvo really easy. the sun makes i...

Great fun. Just when you think its over, it keeps going. A bit of everything. 2 laps with Corey

Best of a bad lot here.

Sharp rock.

Sharp rock.

Sharp rock, dirty and loose.

Did this to get out of the sun. not the best route in Thailand...

Sharp rock. Not well protected so ledge falls are possible.

Did this to get out of the sun. not the best route in Thailand...

Sharp rock

Did this to get out of the sun. not the best route in Thailand...

Sharp and dirty rock. Have to climb through vegitation.

Sharp and dirty rock.

Utter choss, sharp, muddy, wet and dirty rock that's poorly protected.

2nd shot. Me to a T! Hard to read long crux move on onsight. I think I tried about 20 leg combina...

toooo hot and spooogy to get over the lip. would love to go back and do this with any friction!!!

Did it in the dark - Love those slabs!!!

Slopy--very different from most other Tonsai routes

Pumped out of my noodle! Thanx for the catch Jesse.

really good. specially for those who want to lead something not hard . climb gets easier with eve...

Apparently I hadn't climbed this one... Cool overhang! Pumpy for 6a+

Tried this last year and got denied... Different story this year, 3 shots to get this hard boulde...

Got the bottom section first shot after watching some people try it, but ran out of steam in the ...

It was getting dark and I feel bad when climbing on steel bolts

awesome climb. Good for endurance, and a classic crux.

It's easy once you know the sequence on the crux, although a bit balancy. I got different beta fr...

Had a nice fall on the crux. It's good to know that steel bolt still can hold me :)

Pretty good climb, lots of sidepulling action

Finished in the dark!!!

Very cool 3D climb that I ran twice to set up TR, liked the moves :D

Good climb. Pretty easy as well. Remember to take enough draws

beautiful route!

Repeat. Great feature, easy, and excellent views!

Nice gangway, reminds me of Overhanging Bastion in the UK Lake District

2nd pitch to groove tube

I knocked my knee on this climb and bled all over the rock when I realised (and then rested). Har...

fun day out

Pumpy! Good beta from Kirilee. Wish I'd found time to go back and lead this.

Good ol' rock swimming.

punchy.

2nd shot. One very hard move the way I was doing it.

bouldery pockets.

exposed amazing arete

Hard and scary will go

A bit soft but I'll take the tick

just to pu,py for an end of the dayer

"Can you guys please manage your rope..."

Link 1st and 2nd in one pitch.

[Oz 23]. Classic juggy pumpfest.

25 in aus

pretty cool.

very cool

Super steep and intimidating, but really cool. Two rests

what a head wall

Excellent :)

Good, but all too pumpy after the 1st pitch.

Excellent :)

took a big whipper on the awkward mantle at the anchor

great run through the eye of the needle

Groovy! Best pitch. Up through a cave...

great finish

My first 7a onsight. Took me ages, which is most probably why it all went tits up on the way down.

Road to damascus.

Orange Grampians pockets. I almost fell off.

Half great half choss.

I'm Slim Shaley yes I'm the real Shaley!

32m of removable holds!

Punchy wall climbing leads you into the womb and out the other side to an unlikely belay! Mind bo...

A quick add-on pitch just to top out in the huge cave. More like 6c.

Crazy monkeys stole the previous parties stuff

First moves are downwards out of a cave. Cool.

Lovely pockets and top-top rock

Wish it kept going. One or two more pitches possible.

a few dodgy bolts!!

Ordinary, but interesting.

Interesting laybacks, good way to work into limestone.

Nice start but shitty and sharp the rest of the way.

Lesson: eat lunch before afternoon multipitch.

Got it cleanly right up until I was about a foot below the belay station and completely ran out o...

Probably a really great pitch if it wasn't a waterfall. Ended up belaying two bolts higher than b...

Beautiful climb. Loved it. Favourite pitch.

Great view, I can see my bathroom at Mambo.

I loved this pitch right up until the intermediate belay station, after which the style completel...

My favourite pitch. Nice finish. Avoid the intermediate belay station, go directly for the last a...

Beautiful climbing. Loved this pitch.

Struggled on this pitch but ultimately found it a great climb.

Loved this pitch!!! Nice moves, nice sequence.

good fun , then the storm came...

w Andy & TJ

Brilliant pitch. A real gem.

w Andy & TJ

w Andy & TJ

w Andy & TJ

A bit bloody scary

my favourite climb in tonsai. always dry (even in terrential rain) and no one knows about it (nev...

Wet, but pretty entertaining and not hard at all!

hard for the grade I think.

Great, in, around and behind stalagtites, but be careful with rope drag at the top.

Nice climb necessitating some powerful moves. Got a bit nervous and a bit stuck at the crux and a...

Didn't live up to visual expectations. Start is contrived, top is polished. Blah.

Pushed through the pumpy mid section only to miss an easy hold at the second crux and fall. Still...

Balancy section? Got it onsight. Steep crux? Got it onsight. Balancy slopey crux? Got it onsight....

My first lead of a multi pitch

With Trinh. This bit of the climb was super exciting and airy.

Hot, sweaty and greasy.

Damn hard for 6b. Really slopy up high.

hardest part was the mantle move. not too bad otherwise

Great little route, tough first moves...then just PUMP IT!!! LOUDER!!!

hard

A couple of burly moves for the grade.

Hard for the grade.

Good

warm up

Good warmup

tuff. i think maybe b/b+ imo

We thought it was going to be an easy warm-up. Before the first tufa I moved right to a sling and...

This was a funky jungle adventure in the rain

I'm afraid the tree in the middle of the climb is no longer whole after my seconder decided to gr...

Repeat

This is a good 6b to project

Good pockety climbing. I sweated 1L.

Repeat, hard.

Short roof, okay for my rest day

Long long sweating long. Good. Not too hard.

Superb - especially with three solid knee bars (thanks UPSKILL!)

the climb is nearly as good as the name

Rested many times before reaching the anchor. My forearms were destroyed by the time i finished c...

Made it through the crux surprisingly, then took 1 rest and then clean to the anchor.

Clean to the second last bolt, pumped out and rested once.

Pumpy overhanging jug haul. Very fun though. Endurance tester

nice

This was my warm up and some how managed to flash it. Thanks for the beta Mike W.

Super cool project at the grade - do it.

Steep horizontals at start, pillar finish. Its great!

punchy through bulge. love the finish [2]

Access via continuing up after Dozer Days on the Nest. Exremely varied climbing, and well worth t...

Wow! What an unlikely awesome pitch! Turn the roof on cauliflower knob buckets. Do it!

What insane country at the grade! Stalaglicious!

A killer line. Big moves on pockets, then delicate laybacking. [2]

Solid at the grade but very nice.

Thuggy and solid at the grade. Killer pockets.