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Description

Not the best crag on the peninsula, but it does actually have a surprisingly good selection of routes. Combine this with practically all bolts being nice new titanium, and the superb setting, this spot actually has quite a bit going for it. Climbers should respect the importance of the Princess Cave, and be aware that a lot of non-climbers will be here ... behave accordingly! Watch out for monkeys and local kids both of which often bail you up and/or steal your stuff, especially on the path back to Railay.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
7b * Genesis Sport 15m

The leftmost route on this crag. Also the only one which continues past the lip of the roof and up the leaning headwall all the way to the jungle.

2

this is the 8m roof 3-4m R of genesis with an anchor just above the lip. There seems to be the option of doing linkups of these via the rail 1-2m before the lip.

3
7b+ Khon Bar Sport 6m, 3

2m left of black diamond. Bouldery.

4
7c Black Diamond Sport 9m

2-3m L of the short rubbishy 6cs is a hard-looking (8a?) bulge with lots of slimy looking black stuff. Titanium bolts.

5
6c Little Shit Sport 8m, 4

The lefthand 6c taking a rail/flake for the steepest bit. Reportedly not very good, but with this grade and location it was always going to get heaps of traffic. Rebolted with titanium 2005.

FA: Frank Dicker

6

The RH 6c, this time getting thru the steep bit on fingery pockets. This one is also supposed to be pretty average. Titanium.

7
7a * Tales of Power Sport 10m, 5

Just left of, and behind, the tufa which hangs down to 2m off the sand. Juggy rail to some tricky moves around the bulge then stem up the left side of the hanging tufa system. Rebolted with titanium 2005.

FA: Volker Schoeffl, 1991

8
7a * Don't Buy Toys Sport 9m

Pockety steep stuff then the R side of the tufa system. The 3rd or 4th bolt is actually on the side of the tufa. Reportedly quite an ok route.

9
FR 8a * Mekong Haze Sport 9m

Just R of the righthand 7a. Bit of a squeeze but looks great! Titanium.

10
7c ** Might As Well Hurl Sport 9m

R of the 8a, left of Up to You. Awesome moves! A short draw or single biner on the 2nd bolt is good at softening the swing back onto the belayer's rope for falls off the first crux.

11
7b * Up to You Sport 15m, 4

The righmost route on the eye catching pocketed section of rock, and possibly the best here. Rebolted with titanium in 2005.

FA: Francois Burnier, 1991

12
7b+ Half Dragon Sport 18m

More a RHV than an extension, because you don't clip the last bolt or anchor of UTY. Looks very cool. 30 degrees the whole way!

13
FR 7b * Left of Cleft Sport 25m

Definitely not 7b ... subtract 2 grades if your span is 190cm+, or add two grades if it's less! Lovely rock, cool moves, titanium bolts ... all ruined by the last move. Bulge, then climb the easy cleft for 8m, then climb the steep wall just left of the cleft.

14
5 Money Maker 1 Sport 15m

Just R of the cleft, the leftmost line on the Money Maker tufa/column. Slightly grungy black rock at times. The fixed hangers are shiny, but beware.

15
6a Money Maker Sport 20m, 4

Start on the left side of the Money Maker tufa/column formation and go straight up. Top half is nice and delicate.

16
5 Money Maker 3 Sport 20m

As for the 6a then trend R around the big tufa/column formation.

17
FR 5 Money Maker 4 Sport

Start on the front of the column then straight up into MM3.

18
FR 5 Money Maker 5 Sport 20m

Steepish start up the corner/thing on the right side of the column, finish inside cave.

19
FR 6c Transient Route Sport 35m

Start 1m R of MM5. This is actually the very left side of the Princess's Cave, so this route reportedly gets erased regularly. But it's the local guides who re-establish it so uppity foreigners probably have no chance of sorting out the real situation. Has been bolts in the past, but as of 2012 they've all been chopped and it's been reestablished all on threads. Steepish face just R of the Money Maker column then head diagonally R for 10m then up for 15m. Some thread anchors can be seen up there but you might need to BYO. And you might need 2 ropes to get off.