Phra-Nang Beach Guide

Steep boulder problem in the cave marked 'V10'.

The leftmost route on this crag. Also the only one that continues past the lip of the roof and up the leaning headwall, all the way to the jungle. Not rebolted with titanium, 9 stainless steel glue-ins, 2 slings.

Warning Fixed Gear: Ware on sling

Climbs the short roof a few meters right of 'Genesis' to an anchor just above the lip. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

There seems to be the option of doing linkups via the rail 1-2m before the lip.

Two meters left of 'Black Diamond'. Bouldery. Titanium bolts.

Dyno crux on the steep black rock a few meters left of 'Little Shit'. Always wet and slimy, impossible to climb after rain. Titanium bolts.

The lefthand 6c taking a rail/flake for the steepest bit. Reportedly not very good, but with this grade and location it was always going to get heaps of traffic. Shares anchors with 'Princess Eyes'. All titanium bolts.

The righthand 6c, this time getting through the steep bit on fingery pockets. This one is also supposed to be pretty average. Shares anchors with 'Little Shit'. Titanium bolts.

Just left behind the tufa hanging down to 2m off the sand. Juggy rail to some tricky moves around the bulge then stem up the left side of the hanging tufa system. All titanium bolts.

Originally named 'Tales of Power' at grade 7c. Rebolted a little further right to an easier line. Some guidebooks kept the original name.

Pockety steep start into the big huecos, then up the right side of the tufa system. The 4th bolt is actually on the side of the tufa. All titanium bolts.

Linkup. Shares the start with 'Don't Buy Toys', then continue right into 'Mekong Haze' after the 3rd bolt. Titanium bolts.

Just right of 'Don't Buy Toys'. Bit of a squeeze but looks great! All titanium bolts.

Right of 'Mekong Haze'. Awesome moves! A short draw or single carabiner on the 2nd bolt is good at softening the swing back onto the belayer's rope for falls off the first crux. All titanium bolts.

The righmost route on the eye-catching pocketed section of rock, and possibly the best here. All titanium bolts. Share start with Half Dragon and Hot dragon.

Righthand variation than an extension of 'Up to You'. Veers right before the last bolt to a separate anchor a bit higher up. 30 degrees the whole way. All titanium bolts.

The original line was called 'Hot Dragon' and continued up right for another 5m at 8b grade. The old bolts have been chopped and the new shorter and easier route was called 'Half Dragon'. Some guidebooks kept the original name though.

Share start with Up to You and Half Dragon.

Subtract 2 grades if your span is 190cm+, or add two grades if it's less! Lovely rock, cool moves, all ruined by the last move. Over the bulge, then climb the easy cleft for 8m onto the steep wall just left of the cleft. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Just right of the cleft, the leftmost line on the Money Maker pillar. Slightly grungy black rock at times. The fixed hangers are shiny, but beware.

29 July 2020: update grade to 6a to match with The Pocket Guide (by Warizz)

Just left of 'Money Maker'. Titanium bolts and slings.

29 July 2020: update grade to 6a and update the topo to match with The Pocket Guide (by Warizz)

Start on the left side of the Money Maker pillar and go straight up. Top half is nice and delicate. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Shares the start with 'Money Maker', then trend right. Titanium bolts.

Originally this route was a 90m multi-pitch. Only the first pitch was rebolted and now carries the name.

Start on the front of the column, then straight up into 'Phra-Nang Princess'.

Steepish start up the corner on the right side of the pillar. Finish inside a cave. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

Climbs uo right of 'Back to Mani', all the way to the top of the pillar, sharing anchor with 'Money Maker'. No bolts, climb toprope.

Starts in the corner right of the Money Maker pillar and climbs up right onto the face. All titanium bolts.

The original line was one of the first routes on the Phra-Nang peninsula and climbed on further right for a total length of 35m. However, due to the proximity to the Princess Cave and the many tourists below on the beach, only the first half has been rebolted and the original bolts have been chopped.