A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Koh Yao Noi 96 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 98.597454, 8.152925

Description:

A large beautiful island located between Phuket and Railay.

Approach:

By boat.

1.1. The Mitt 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:

Classic Thailand tufa and stalactite climbing. Great quality rock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Guided 5 Sport 18m, 10
2 The Cooler 6a Sport 12m, 6
3 * Black Widow Arete

Route starts off the boulder on the far right of the crag. Clip the sling for safety. Belay either on the boulder or in the cave entrance........Great climbing and solid.

6c+ Sport 25m
4 ** So Weak, So Strong 7c Sport
5 ** Loco 6c+ Sport 30m
6 Spiderman 6c+ Sport
7 Big Cloud Coming 6b+ Sport 22m
8 No Name 8a Sport
9 *** Daddy Long Legs 6b Sport 30m
10 ** Belly Full 7a+ Sport
11 Tarantula 6c+ Sport
12 White Monkey 7a Sport 35m
13 Monkey Ladder 7a Sport 35m
14 Finger Bang 7b Sport 35m
15 Yank the Mank 7a+ Sport 35m
16 White Bird 6b+ Sport 35m
17 * The Highway 6b Sport 35m
18 Tufa Walker 6b+ Sport 35m
19 The Red Line 7c Sport 35m
20 Balancing Act 6c+ Sport 35m
21 Mixed Fruit Shake 7a Sport 35m
22 Koh Yao Wild 7a+ Sport 35m
23 Finders Keepers

Route climbs up left of Koa Yao Wild and finishes at its own anchors.

6c Sport 35m
24 Eye Of The Tiger 6a+ Sport 40m
25 Grey Box 6a+ Sport 40m
26 Lobster Claw 7a+ Sport 30m

1.2. Watchtower 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

Brilliant quality rock.

Approach:

Need to take a boat and it's tricky to find, even for a boatman who says they know. Scramble and solo up behind boulder, bash through jungle then solo again to in situ bamboo ledges.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rolling Stoned 6a+ Sport
2 ** When I Paint My Masterpiece

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7b Sport
3 *** Ta Kean Hin

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7a+ Sport
4 Roy Raeng

Ti - Titanium Bolts

6c+ Sport
5 Where The Wild Things Are

Ti - Titanium Bolts

6c+ Sport
6 Skyline

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7a Sport

1.3. Grateful Wall 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Sea Cliff Climbing

Approach:

By boat

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Touch of Grey 6b+ Sport 30m
2 ** Wharf Rat 6b Sport 30m
3 ** Candyman 6b+ Sport 30m
4 Grateful Dead 6c+ Sport
5 *** New Speedway Boogie 6c+ Sport 25m
6 Monkey and Engineer 6c Sport 30m
7 Franklins Tower 6a+ Sport 35m
8 Help is on the Way 6a+ Sport 35m
9 Slipknot 6a Sport 30m
10 The Music Never Stopped 6a Sport
11 The Music Never Stopped (Extension) 7a Sport
12 Fire on the Mountain 6b Sport
13 No Name 6a+ Sport
14 Brian's Route 6a Sport
15 No Name (1st Route)

1st route on the far left.

6b Sport 25m

1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:

Red and White rock with stalactites.

Access Issues:

By boat.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hang Time

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7c Sport
2 Hang On

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7a+ Sport
3 Hanging by a Thread

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7b Sport
4 Hang Em High

Ti - Titanium Bolts

8a Sport
5 Hang It Out

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7b+ Sport
6 Well Hung

Ti - Titanium Bolts

7a Sport
7 Hang Loose

Ti - Titanium Bolts

6c+ Sport
8 Hang Whitey

Ti - Titanium Bolts

6c+ Sport
9 Hangover 6c Sport

1.5. HD Wall 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 98.638463, 8.177619

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Paradise Prow 6a+ Sport
2 Cheeseburger In Paradise

FA: Josh Lyons, Mark Miner, 2006

5c Sport 20m
3 Appetite For Destruction

3 Pitches: 1st Pitch is 'Cheeseburger in Paradise' 2nd & 3rd Pitches are called "Appetite for Destruction".

7a+ Sport 3
4 Home Before Dark 6a Sport
5 Paradise Waits 6b+ Sport
6 Dont Tell Mum 6b Sport

1.6. Big Tree Wall 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 98.638806, 8.178967

Access Issues:

Long approach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tipsy Gypsy

Ti - Titanium Bolts.

7a+ Sport 3
2 Orange Crush 6b+ Sport 30m
3 Cap'n Jack 6b Sport 33m 2
4 Snuffalufagus 6b Sport 20m, 12
5 *** Looney Tunes 6a+ Sport 55m 2
6 Gypsy Follies 6c Sport 80m 3
7 ** Sea Hippies

Ti - Titanium Bolts.

6b+ Sport 20m 3
8 Black beard

Single pitch goodness at the grade. Hidden holds make it a gem. Talk like a pirate on the onsight.

6a Sport 25m, 14
9 Gypsy Dance 6b+ Sport 80m 3
10 Pirate Dreams 6c Sport 25m
11 Saka Hu, Suka Hae

First Pitch 25 Metres

6a+ Sport 25m
12 No Name

Last climb on the right.

6c Sport 25m
13 Unknown (The Ramp?)

Scramble around the corner past the main climbing area!

6b Sport 30m

1.7. Breakfast Wall 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:

Shade after mid day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Toast and Jam 6b Sport
2 Rice Soup 6c Sport
3 Bloody Mary Morning 7b Sport

1.8. The Bee Wall 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:

Shade until mid day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Screaming Pelican 6c+ Sport
2 Golden Flakes 6c Sport
3 Dos Huevos 6c+ Sport
4 Burn Strong 6b+ Sport
5 Leaping Lizard 6b Sport
6 Honey Bee 7a+ Sport 2

1.9. Dump Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep, white rock, tufa's and buckets. In the shade until 2pm in the high season.

Description:

Single pitch routes. Classic Thailand tufa and stalactite climbing. Great quality rock. The crag is named in reference to the "rubbish storage area" at Paradise resort.

Access Issues:

Currently access via the Paradise Resort has been revoked. Negotiation are in progress. There is an alternative way in at the moment, please be respectful and use it.

Ethic:

Most of the routes have quick lock anchors for convenience. Please put your own quick draws on if doing multiple ascents or top-roping the routes. Use quick lock anchors only as a final lower off.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dirt Bather 6a+ Sport 25m, 14
2 Oscar, The Grouch 6b+ Sport 21m
3 Heaps of Rubbish 6c Sport 22m
4 Dumpster Diver 6b+ Sport 22m
5 Voayage Et Du Vent 6b+ Sport 22m
6 Waste Management 6c Sport 22m, 9
7 Gutter Snipe

This route no longer exists - the whole bottom section of the route has fallen off and its laying on the ground at the base.

6c Sport
8 Little Bird

Starts on the far right of the ledge to the right of the broken route.

7a Sport
9 White Rice

Starts on the lower section of the crag, on the way to Bee Hive Wall.

7b Sport
10 Chalkless Momentum

Beware the bee's in the high season. The hives are very active.

6c Sport

1.10. Ao Pui Tower 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:

2 multi pitch routes

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Wind 6b+ Sport 2
2 Carlos & Rossi 6b+ Sport 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Guided Sport 18m, 10 1.1. The Mitt
5c Cheeseburger In Paradise Sport 20m 1.5. HD Wall
6a The Cooler Sport 12m, 6 1.1. The Mitt
Brian's Route Sport 1.3. Grateful Wall
Slipknot Sport 30m 1.3. Grateful Wall
The Music Never Stopped Sport 1.3. Grateful Wall
Home Before Dark Sport 1.5. HD Wall
Black beard Sport 25m, 14 1.6. Big Tree Wall
6a+ Eye Of The Tiger Sport 40m 1.1. The Mitt
Grey Box Sport 40m 1.1. The Mitt
Rolling Stoned Sport 1.2. Watchtower
Franklins Tower Sport 35m 1.3. Grateful Wall
Help is on the Way Sport 35m 1.3. Grateful Wall
No Name Sport 1.3. Grateful Wall
Paradise Prow Sport 1.5. HD Wall
*** Looney Tunes Sport 55m 2 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Saka Hu, Suka Hae Sport 25m 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Dirt Bather Sport 25m, 14 1.9. Dump Wall
6b *** Daddy Long Legs Sport 30m 1.1. The Mitt
* The Highway Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
Fire on the Mountain Sport 1.3. Grateful Wall
No Name (1st Route) Sport 25m 1.3. Grateful Wall
** Wharf Rat Sport 30m 1.3. Grateful Wall
Dont Tell Mum Sport 1.5. HD Wall
Cap'n Jack Sport 33m 2 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Snuffalufagus Sport 20m, 12 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Unknown (The Ramp?) Sport 30m 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Toast and Jam Sport 1.7. Breakfast Wall
Leaping Lizard Sport 1.8. The Bee Wall
6b+ Big Cloud Coming Sport 22m 1.1. The Mitt
Tufa Walker Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
White Bird Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
** Candyman Sport 30m 1.3. Grateful Wall
** Touch of Grey Sport 30m 1.3. Grateful Wall
Paradise Waits Sport 1.5. HD Wall
Gypsy Dance Sport 80m 3 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Orange Crush Sport 30m 1.6. Big Tree Wall
** Sea Hippies Sport 20m 3 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Burn Strong Sport 1.8. The Bee Wall
Dumpster Diver Sport 22m 1.9. Dump Wall
Oscar, The Grouch Sport 21m 1.9. Dump Wall
Voayage Et Du Vent Sport 22m 1.9. Dump Wall
Carlos & Rossi Sport 2 1.10. Ao Pui Tower
Easy Wind Sport 2 1.10. Ao Pui Tower
6c Finders Keepers Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
Monkey and Engineer Sport 30m 1.3. Grateful Wall
Hangover Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
Gypsy Follies Sport 80m 3 1.6. Big Tree Wall
No Name Sport 25m 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Pirate Dreams Sport 25m 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Rice Soup Sport 1.7. Breakfast Wall
Golden Flakes Sport 1.8. The Bee Wall
Chalkless Momentum Sport 1.9. Dump Wall
Gutter Snipe Sport 1.9. Dump Wall
Heaps of Rubbish Sport 22m 1.9. Dump Wall
Waste Management Sport 22m, 9 1.9. Dump Wall
6c+ Balancing Act Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
* Black Widow Arete Sport 25m 1.1. The Mitt
** Loco Sport 30m 1.1. The Mitt
Spiderman Sport 1.1. The Mitt
Tarantula Sport 1.1. The Mitt
Roy Raeng Sport 1.2. Watchtower
Where The Wild Things Are Sport 1.2. Watchtower
Grateful Dead Sport 1.3. Grateful Wall
*** New Speedway Boogie Sport 25m 1.3. Grateful Wall
Hang Loose Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
Hang Whitey Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
Dos Huevos Sport 1.8. The Bee Wall
Screaming Pelican Sport 1.8. The Bee Wall
7a Mixed Fruit Shake Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
Monkey Ladder Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
White Monkey Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
Skyline Sport 1.2. Watchtower
The Music Never Stopped (Extension) Sport 1.3. Grateful Wall
Well Hung Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
Little Bird Sport 1.9. Dump Wall
7a+ ** Belly Full Sport 1.1. The Mitt
Koh Yao Wild Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
Lobster Claw Sport 30m 1.1. The Mitt
Yank the Mank Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
*** Ta Kean Hin Sport 1.2. Watchtower
Hang On Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
Appetite For Destruction Sport 3 1.5. HD Wall
Tipsy Gypsy Sport 3 1.6. Big Tree Wall
Honey Bee Sport 2 1.8. The Bee Wall
7b Finger Bang Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
** When I Paint My Masterpiece Sport 1.2. Watchtower
Hanging by a Thread Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
Bloody Mary Morning Sport 1.7. Breakfast Wall
White Rice Sport 1.9. Dump Wall
7b+ Hang It Out Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
7c ** So Weak, So Strong Sport 1.1. The Mitt
The Red Line Sport 35m 1.1. The Mitt
Hang Time Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du
8a No Name Sport 1.1. The Mitt
Hang Em High Sport 1.4. The Hang on Ko Ku Du