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Table of contents

1. Ballikayalar 91 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 29.516311, 40.843300

Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice small crag close to Istanbul

Description:

Small gorge with limestone outcrops of different aspects east of Istanbul. This idyllic place is somewhat of a recreational reserve with a creek running along the valley and a popular weekend destination also for non-climbers, when it can become crowded. The sectors are termed "Left area" and "Right Area", which refers to the sides when looking INTO the gorge, as opposed to the geographical convention of left/right.

Approach:

public transport: From Istanbul, start at Harem Otogar (be sure to pronounce it "ha-REEHM"), which is bus terminal on the asian side. Take a minibus to Gebze (~2:00 h), where you take another towards Tavshanli ("tough-shunn-leh", do not confuse this with Tavsancil;0:10 h). Look for the rocks to be seen far left of the highway.The bus will drop you at the highway exit. Walk north through the village (3.3 km) or hitch a ride(usually works well) to the signposted reserve. car: from Istanbul, follow D-100 east to Tavshanli, go north till the final parking (fees on weekends).

Where To Stay:

Camping is said to be permitted on the Western plateau.

Ethic:

no pitons, no bolts where natural pro suffices.

1.1. Right Area 44 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 29.517649, 40.842661

Description:

Right side of gorge when looking into it, i.e Eastern side.

Approach:

Pass restaurant and follow trail.

1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi) 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 29.516991, 40.836681

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Serenad 6Sport 9m, 5
2 Bela 5Unknown 9m, 5
3 341 4Trad 9m
4 Jupiter 7Sport 10m, 4
5 Kanedyen 7-Sport 10m, 5
6 Salkim Sogut 7+Sport 10m
7 XL 6+Unknown 10m
8 Kent ve Kopekler 7-Sport 10m
9 Kayip Zamanin izinde Unknown 10m
10 Zangoc 8-Sport 9m
11 Karga 4+Unknown 10m

1.1.2. 2nd Block 22 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 29.517325, 40.837609

1.1.2.1. Over the Russell Mahkemesi 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Whisky 6+Sport 10m
1.1.2.2. Valley Side 13 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Topuz 9-Sport 17m
2 Anavarza 7+Sport 18m
3 Sahmerdan 9Sport 18m
4 Büyük balkon 7Unknown 18m
5 Beyoglu 9-Sport 18m
6 Ilk kan 7-Unknown 32m
7 Russell Mahkemesi 8+Sport 17m
8 Overkill 8-Sport 16m
9 Cocuk Yuvasi 8-Sport 16m
10 Kerhane Tatlisi 7+Sport 16m
11 Gidiyorum 6+Unknown 16m
12 Sogan 6+Unknown 16m
13 Acemi 4Unknown 18m
1.1.2.3. North Side 8 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kuzey Yildizi 7+Sport 13m
2 Seksoloji 5cSport 10m, 6
3 Kopru Alti 5+Sport 11m, 4
4 Sapan 4+Unknown 13m
5 Karlar Ulkesi 6-Sport 11m, 4
6 Kaiowas 4+Unknown 14m
7 Comar 6-Sport 9m
8 Demir Hindi 6Sport 9m, 4

1.1.3. Another block 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 29.518185, 40.838031

Description:

SW-exposed small rock face with easy routes but steep and slippery base. Please correct the name, if you can.

Approach:

Follow trail along northern side of Second block for another 100 m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 r1

leftmost route

4+Sport 12m
2 r2 4+Sport 12m
3 r3

share anchor with previous and next climb

5-Sport 12m, 4
4 r4

rightmost route; tricky start move for small ones

4+Sport 10m, 4

1.1.4. 3rd Block (Kirmizi kaya) 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 29.518462, 40.838828

Description:

One of the most upslope sectors, difficult to reach, few routes on mediocre rock. Don't bother to get there.

Approach:

No visible path from the valley. Be prepared for some bushwacking

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Thin Red Line 7-Sport 10m
2 Raul Sendic 7Unknown 11m
3 Maganda 4+Trad 12m

1.1.5. 4th Block (Burunkaya) 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pink Moon 7Sport 16m
2 Pembe Panter 4Unknown

1.1.6. The Big Cave 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Medyadan Sonra 9-Sport 11m
2 No Worries 5+Sport 17m

1.2. Left Area 47 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 29.516233, 40.838483

1.2.1. 1st Block 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 29.516020, 40.838015

Description:

First sector on the western hillslope side. The most easiest to reach of all,

Approach:

Pass restaurant and cross river, follow track uphill for 5 min.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Diagonal 4Unknown 9m
2 Mafya Gazino 5Unknown 11m
3 ** Exitus (Ex)

FA: Ozturk Kayikci

8-Sport 10m
4 Derin Catlak

FA: Dogan Palut

7+Sport 11m
5 *** Kisa Ama Sert

FA: Dogan Palut

8+Sport 11m
6 Jump 7+Sport 11m
7 Dolanik 4+Unknown 11m
8 Ekmek Arasi

FA: Dogan Palut

5+Unknown 10m

1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks 30 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 29.516507, 40.838856

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Altimi Al 5Unknown 9m
2 Davul 6+Sport 20m, 9
3 Ejder Pencesi

FA: Dogan Palut

8-Unknown 22m
4 Sari Zeybek 8+Sport 21m
5 Pelitozu 5-Unknown 20m
6 ** Neredeyim abi

FA: Dogan Palut

8+Unknown 15m
7 Kebapci

FA: Dogan Palut

7+Sport 15m, 6
8 ** Siyesta

FA: Ugur Yilmaz

8+Unknown 15m
9 *** Kitabi Mukaddes

FA: Dogan Palut

9+Unknown 18m
10 ** Hellstar

FA: Dogan Palut

9Unknown 17m
11 ** Podyum

FA: Ugur Yilmaz

8+Unknown 17m
12 Percussion 6+Sport 20m, 7
13 Debuskö 5c+Sport 19m, 8
14 Done Done 5+Unknown 23m
15 Kuzu Kuzu

FA: Dogan Palut

6+Unknown 14m
16 Kutur Kutur 6+Sport 10m, 4
17 Peynir Cicegi 5Sport 22m
18 Patir Patir 7Unknown 25m
19 Kartal Yuvasi 4+Unknown 22m
20 Baca 5+Sport 25m
21 *** Ulisis

FA: Murat Kandi

9Unknown 15m
22 ** Kadirga

FA: Murat Kandi

9Unknown 15m
23 * Kadinlar

FA: Dogan Palut

8-Sport 13m
24 Ripper 5+Unknown 24m
25 Daglarin Aslani 4+Unknown 26m
26 Pamuk ipligi 7+Unknown 23m
27 Baykus 7+Sport 7m
28 ** Osi

FA: Dogan Palut

7+Sport 22m
29 *** Ska longa

FA: Dogan Palut

8Sport 18m
30 *** Savas ve Baris

FA: Dogan Palut

8Unknown 17m

1.2.3. Over the Cave 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rock Market 7Sport 14m
2 Studyo FM 7Sport 14m
3 Atlas 7Sport 14m

1.2.4. 4th Block (Gizli Bahce) 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gizli Bahce 7Sport 15m
2 Alternatif 6-Unknown 13m
3 Demir Leblebi 7-Sport 13m
4 Dogumgunu 6Unknown 15m
5 Efes Pilsen 7+Sport 25m
6 Bal Bocegi 6+Sport 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 341 Trad 9m 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Acemi Unknown 18m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Pembe Panter Unknown 1.1.5. 4th Block (Burunkaya)
Diagonal Unknown 9m 1.2.1. 1st Block
4+ Karga Unknown 10m 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Kaiowas Unknown 14m 1.1.2.3. North Side
Sapan Unknown 13m 1.1.2.3. North Side
r1 Sport 12m 1.1.3. Another block
r2 Sport 12m 1.1.3. Another block
r4 Sport 10m, 4 1.1.3. Another block
Maganda Trad 12m 1.1.4. 3rd Block (Kirmizi kaya)
Dolanik Unknown 11m 1.2.1. 1st Block
Daglarin Aslani Unknown 26m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Kartal Yuvasi Unknown 22m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
5- r3 Sport 12m, 4 1.1.3. Another block
Pelitozu Unknown 20m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
5 Bela Unknown 9m, 5 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Mafya Gazino Unknown 11m 1.2.1. 1st Block
Altimi Al Unknown 9m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Peynir Cicegi Sport 22m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
5+ Kopru Alti Sport 11m, 4 1.1.2.3. North Side
No Worries Sport 17m 1.1.6. The Big Cave
Ekmek Arasi Unknown 10m 1.2.1. 1st Block
Baca Sport 25m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Done Done Unknown 23m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Ripper Unknown 24m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
6- Comar Sport 9m 1.1.2.3. North Side
Karlar Ulkesi Sport 11m, 4 1.1.2.3. North Side
Alternatif Unknown 13m 1.2.4. 4th Block (Gizli Bahce)
5c Seksoloji Sport 10m, 6 1.1.2.3. North Side
6 Serenad Sport 9m, 5 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Demir Hindi Sport 9m, 4 1.1.2.3. North Side
Dogumgunu Unknown 15m 1.2.4. 4th Block (Gizli Bahce)
5c+ Debuskö Sport 19m, 8 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
6+ XL Unknown 10m 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Whisky Sport 10m 1.1.2.1. Over the Russell Mahkemesi
Gidiyorum Unknown 16m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Sogan Unknown 16m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Davul Sport 20m, 9 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Kutur Kutur Sport 10m, 4 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Kuzu Kuzu Unknown 14m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Percussion Sport 20m, 7 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Bal Bocegi Sport 10m 1.2.4. 4th Block (Gizli Bahce)
7- Kanedyen Sport 10m, 5 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Kent ve Kopekler Sport 10m 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Ilk kan Unknown 32m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
The Thin Red Line Sport 10m 1.1.4. 3rd Block (Kirmizi kaya)
Demir Leblebi Sport 13m 1.2.4. 4th Block (Gizli Bahce)
7 Jupiter Sport 10m, 4 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Büyük balkon Unknown 18m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Raul Sendic Unknown 11m 1.1.4. 3rd Block (Kirmizi kaya)
Pink Moon Sport 16m 1.1.5. 4th Block (Burunkaya)
Patir Patir Unknown 25m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Atlas Sport 14m 1.2.3. Over the Cave
Rock Market Sport 14m 1.2.3. Over the Cave
Studyo FM Sport 14m 1.2.3. Over the Cave
Gizli Bahce Sport 15m 1.2.4. 4th Block (Gizli Bahce)
7+ Salkim Sogut Sport 10m 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Anavarza Sport 18m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Kerhane Tatlisi Sport 16m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Kuzey Yildizi Sport 13m 1.1.2.3. North Side
Derin Catlak Sport 11m 1.2.1. 1st Block
Jump Sport 11m 1.2.1. 1st Block
Baykus Sport 7m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Kebapci Sport 15m, 6 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
** Osi Sport 22m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Pamuk ipligi Unknown 23m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Efes Pilsen Sport 25m 1.2.4. 4th Block (Gizli Bahce)
8- Zangoc Sport 9m 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)
Cocuk Yuvasi Sport 16m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Overkill Sport 16m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
** Exitus (Ex) Sport 10m 1.2.1. 1st Block
Ejder Pencesi Unknown 22m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
* Kadinlar Sport 13m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
8 *** Savas ve Baris Unknown 17m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
*** Ska longa Sport 18m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
8+ Russell Mahkemesi Sport 17m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
*** Kisa Ama Sert Sport 11m 1.2.1. 1st Block
** Neredeyim abi Unknown 15m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
** Podyum Unknown 17m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
Sari Zeybek Sport 21m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
** Siyesta Unknown 15m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
9- Beyoglu Sport 18m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Topuz Sport 17m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
Medyadan Sonra Sport 11m 1.1.6. The Big Cave
9 Sahmerdan Sport 18m 1.1.2.2. Valley Side
** Hellstar Unknown 17m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
** Kadirga Unknown 15m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
*** Ulisis Unknown 15m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
9+ *** Kitabi Mukaddes Unknown 18m 1.2.2. 2nd and 3rd Blocks
? Kayip Zamanin izinde Unknown 10m 1.1.1. 1st Block (Sokak Kopegi)