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Summary
Limestone
Old, abandoned roadside quarry with plenty of mid-grade slab climbs.
Description
Afternoon sun
Dries quickly
Sheltered from wind
Little overgrown and not a very popular limestone crag in the middle of the peak district. Thankfully, there is no rubbish to speak of and a good place at the bottom for a picnic. Most routes (but not all) are now equipped with stainless steel lower-offs, but be prepared. This is a trad venue, and some of the routes on the main slabs are very hard to protect at the first 10 meters.
Access issues
No issues, like the Horseshoe quarry, the crag is owned by the BMC. There is a place just under the crag for 3 carefully parked cars.
Ethic inherited from Peak District Limestone
Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Broadbent
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9781913167110
A selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing areas in the northern half of England and Wales, covering 89 crags across Cumbria, Lancashire, North Yorkshire, the esoteric Filey sea cliffs, the Peak District, Cheshire, Clwyd limestone, the A55 and North Wales coast, and Llanberis slate.
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Author(s): Alan James & Chris Craggs
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781873341582
A selective guidebook describing the best Trad rock climbing and sport climbing found on the limestone crags in the Peak District, covering over 3,000 routes at 30 crags.
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Author(s): Ian Carr & Gary Gibson
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780903908399
A comprehensive guidebook describing the trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in the southern area of the Peak District, covering 50 crags including the classic areas of High Tor, Dovedale, Wirksworth, Matlock and the Manifold Valley.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Wed 19 Apr
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