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Table of contents

1. Anston Stones 71 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: -1.203068, 53.343112


New guide in 2012 has opened up the bouldering, access is still sensitive and as always take your litter away.

Grades are taken from 2012 guide, some may be a little soft?


Located just off the A57, park in the big layby and follow the path into the woods.

Down the hill past the tree swing into a nice valley following a meandering creek.

Head under the railway to get to the Wave Wall area.

1.1. Wave Area 47 routes in Area


Long/Lat: -1.198395, 53.340988


Main wall of the area. Features both steep and powerful roofs to dead vertical crimpfests..

1.1.1. Bullet Roof 7 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: -1.198395, 53.340988

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Colt

Sit directly in the niche below the left arete. Climb up the arete/roof and mantle on to the ledge.

2 Magnum Eliminate

From the same start as Colt. Climb direct through the roof avoiding the arete. Mantle to finish.

3 ** Bullet

Sit start at large undercut at back of roof. Climb direct till you reach the bullet hole (shallow pocket) then slap to the top lip trying to stay in contact with the rock! Mantle to finish.

4 ** Revolver

Sit at back with left hand on layaway. Make hard morpho moves to the pinch above lip. Slap wildly to the flat hold and finish up the wall/groove above.

5 Tech Nine

Sit start on small holds right under the right hand side of roof, make a hard slap to good holds on lip and finish directly up.

6 Beretta

Sit start cross handed on far right side of buttress. Traverse left staying low on edges on the lip and finish up the vague arete.

7 Beretta Extension 7BBoulder

1.1.2. Dark Art Roof 13 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: -1.198395, 53.340988

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fine Art

To the left of Dark Art. Sit start on left side of buttress and climb the arete.

2 ** Dark Art

Start from back layaway under roof. Climb through and get established on the lip holds then finish left into and up the arete.

3 *** Dark Reservation

Links Dark Art into Reservation.

4 * Beta Blocker

Start hanging good jug on lip and climb up via pockets to a gaston finish into a large undercut below the tree trunk.

5 Black Tufa

Sit start from the obvious black tufa and launch to the good lip hold of Beta Blocker. Finish up this.

6 * Reservation

Climb the roof from a low start on the plinth. Reach to crimps on the lip, move right and rock back left for a high pocket.

7 * Fine Beta

Climb Fine Art but stay on the lip and traverse rightwards to finish up Beta Blocker

8 ** Dark Beta

Climbing Dark Art to the good lip holds then traverse right into and up beta blocker, gives you a harder 8a.

9 'Black Tufa' start to Reservation

Climb the 'Black Tufa' start. On getting the jug at the start of Beta Blocker traverse right into Reservation via a tricky couple of moves.

10 ** Black Crow

Sit start and climb direct through the black roof via hard slaps. Finish at the large pocket below the top capping roof.

11 ** White Light

Sit start at right end of Dark Art Roof. Climb up using small crimps to gain good crozzle pinch. Slap to good hold left of corner crack and finish staying on the arete to the top.

12 ** White Light Direct 8A+Boulder
13 *** Fire in the Rain 8BBoulder

1.1.3. Wave Wall 12 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: -1.198395, 53.340988

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wave Wall Corner

Warm up

2 Crimps Wall

Using small holds climb the wall just right of the corner.

3 The Tufa

Start on the undercut and side pull directly below the little tufa. pull on and climb directly using the tufa as a side pull

4 The Wave Direct 6BBoulder
5 Wave Right Hand 6B+Boulder
6 Little Big Pocket 6BBoulder
7 * Blue Circles

Start using the three holds marked with faded blue circles. Climb directly into the little crack and finish on the good edge on the left.

8 No Circles

Start to the right of the last problem. Left on a good gaston and right on a two finger box edge. Make a big move up left to the layaway and get the jug to finish.

9 The Shield 6A+Boulder
10 Shallow

Left hand side pull and right hand on an edge then climb directly to the point the mini prow sticks out.

11 The End

Just left of the ivy, good holds lead to a tricky move for the good finishing holds.

12 The End Sit Start 6C+Boulder

1.1.4. Ebola Buttress 15 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: -1.198395, 53.340988

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ebola Buttress Left Wall 5Boulder
2 Ebola Buttress Centre Wall 5Boulder
3 Ebola Buttress Right Wall 5Boulder
4 The Undercut

From a good undercut in the flake up to the good pocket finishing high on pockets and edges.

5 Quarantine

The big traverse starting up The Undercut, then traversing rightwards staying at the height of the obvious line of crimps, to finish along Twenty Four Point Nine.

6 * The Vision

Just right of the undercut sit start with RH mono. Pull up and slap to left sloper. Finish direct on crimps and an awkward pocket.

7 * Monster

Follow the vague flake system right of the Vision to reach good edges. Finish direct.

8 Blind Bat

From left side of big shelf pop left to good holds. Finish direct at strange dish jug.

9 * Last Stand

From right side of good shelf climb up right via an ear toa good hold. From here go direct to the break line.

10 ** Twenty Four Point Nine

Start sitting as for Last Stand and link this along the sloper rail into the finish of Alpha.

11 * The Phoenix

Climb out of the strange scoop using 2 part crimp for left and tufe pinch for right. Make a hard move up and right for an edge over roof. Finish direct.

12 * Alpha

Climb out from the corner undercutting the tufa and slapping left for crimp. From here climb through the sloping rail and up via pockets to finish matched on edges.

13 *** Resonate

From a big undercut, get a dish with right hand and make a big move to get established on two undercuts. From these launch to the ledge above and finish matched on this.

14 *** Ebola

From a good sidepull for right hand, pull up and get a left heel toe in. Make a big move to gain a left 2 finger pocket. Go right to a good edge then out up and left to finish matched on the same high hold as Resonate.

15 The Arete 5Boulder

1.2. Woody's Rock 9 routes in Sector

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Woody's Wall Left

Any line on the easy left side of Woody's Wall, mentioned but not graded in the guide.

2 Unnamed 7a

Left hand end, sit start on tufas slap for jug then exit left via pockets.

3 Trench Warfare Boulder
4 * Grape Crusher

Start on good holds under the roof right of Trench Warfare crack. Exit left and out via Trench Warfare.

5 Dangerous Action Man Wrestling 7CBoulder
6 *** Soul Crusher 7C+Boulder
7 Soul Crusher Sit Start 8ABoulder
8 *** Wrestling With My Dangerous Soul

From the back into 'Dangerous Action Man Wrestling'

9 Woody's Rock Footless Traverse

Traverse curving ledge footless.


1.3. Apprentice Wall 15 routes in Cliff

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Apprentice Prow

Sit start on pockets below prow, Slap up to the large pocket at base of prow and finish directly up this.

2 * Sir Alan

Start as for Apprentice Prow then traverse via pockets into Apprentice Wall and finish up this.

3 *** Apprentice Wall

Sit start on large pocket pinch and climb direct up this classic little wall using large edges and right hand pinches.

4 The Rookie 7A+Boulder
5 John's Arete 6B+Boulder
6 Skirting Board Ladder 6ABoulder
7 Spirit Level Bubbles 6BBoulder
8 Elbow Grease 6BBoulder
9 Tartan Paint 6BBoulder
10 Bucket Of Steam 5+Boulder
11 Crackdown 5Boulder
12 Takashi Sit Start

From a sit start climb up just right of the crack via a very nice undercut. Do not use any of the big pockets in the crack. Finish on the ledge high up.

13 ** Whizz Kid Sit Start

Up the middle of Whizz Kid Wall, starting sat below the nice flake.

14 Wizz Kid Stand Start

Undercut up to the broken flake and then drop knee / bridge direct up the wall to the break.

15 * Pockets problem 7ABoulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Wave Wall Corner Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
Ebola Buttress Centre Wall Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
Ebola Buttress Left Wall Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
Ebola Buttress Right Wall Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
The Arete Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
Crackdown Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
5+ Bucket Of Steam Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
6A Skirting Board Ladder Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
6A+ The Shield Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
6B Little Big Pocket Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
The Wave Direct Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
The Undercut Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
Elbow Grease Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
Spirit Level Bubbles Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
Tartan Paint Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
6B+ The Tufa Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
Wave Right Hand Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
John's Arete Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
6C Crimps Wall Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
No Circles Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
The End Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
* Grape Crusher Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
Woody's Rock Footless Traverse Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
*** Apprentice Wall Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
6C+ Shallow Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
The End Sit Start Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
7A * Beta Blocker Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
* Blue Circles Boulder 1.1.3. Wave Wall
* Last Stand Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
Unnamed 7a Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
* Pockets problem Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
7A+ Beretta Boulder 1.1.1. Bullet Roof
* Colt Boulder 1.1.1. Bullet Roof
* Fine Art Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
Blind Bat Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
** Twenty Four Point Nine Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
** Apprentice Prow Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
Takashi Sit Start Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
The Rookie Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
Wizz Kid Stand Start Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
7B Beretta Extension Boulder 1.1.1. Bullet Roof
Tech Nine Boulder 1.1.1. Bullet Roof
* Reservation Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
* Alpha Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
7B+ Black Tufa Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
* Sir Alan Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
** Whizz Kid Sit Start Boulder 1.3. Apprentice Wall
7C ** Bullet Boulder 1.1.1. Bullet Roof
'Black Tufa' start to Reservation Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
* Fine Beta Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
*** Ebola Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
* Monster Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
*** Resonate Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
* The Phoenix Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
* The Vision Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
Dangerous Action Man Wrestling Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
7C+ Magnum Eliminate Boulder 1.1.1. Bullet Roof
** Black Crow Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
*** Soul Crusher Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
8A ** Dark Art Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
** Dark Beta Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
** White Light Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
Quarantine Boulder 1.1.4. Ebola Buttress
Soul Crusher Sit Start Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
8A+ ** Revolver Boulder 1.1.1. Bullet Roof
*** Dark Reservation Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
** White Light Direct Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
*** Wrestling With My Dangerous Soul Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
8B *** Fire in the Rain Boulder 1.1.2. Dark Art Roof
? Trench Warfare Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock
Woody's Wall Left Boulder 1.2. Woody's Rock